Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 F350 - Oil Leak 4 Gallons In 600 Miles
Aug 23, 2015
2000 f-350 cc srw 4x4 lb. Added a 4inch diamond eye and sct programmer 2 years ago. When I bought it 4 years ago no oil leaks. Last year had a small leak 1 qt every 3000mi. Went camping tuesday when we got there 1 Gallon low and a camper covered in oil. On the way home used 2 more gallons and topped it off with another gallon before parking. Checked the dip stick tube connection no luck.
Cleaned top off with simple green and garden hose finding the drain hole in the back clogged and valley full of oil. Got the front half clean and checked for leaks and found none front valley is still clean.
Had the wife run it up to 2000 rpm for a minute when she let off the throttle and when it slowed got a 3 second stream of oil from the cover at the back of the oil pan. CEL came on code 1280 found oil in the ICP plug ( will order that with orings and tool for hpop for preventative). Removed the air crossover to the turbo and still oil in the back half cleaned it all out and drying now.
Checked the plugs at the back of the engine and they are clean. Where should I look for the leak to be at?
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I am having a huge issue with my 1999 ford f-250 super duty 7.3 diesel. I am goin thru 1-2 gallons of oil every 150-200 miles I drive. I can can smell oil thru the exhaust when its running. There is a layer of oil "residue" on the engine. A buddy of mine suggested that I might have a broken O-ring on a fuel injector.....is there ANY way of testing that before tearing everything apart to get to the valve covers??
There is NO oil on the ground when left parked for a few days. I can NOT see any significant area in the engine compartment where it is leaking....
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I have a 03 F-350, 7.3L. There is a slow oil leak that only leaks after I've run the truck. In other words, it doesn't just sit and leak overnight. I'll park it after running, and the next morning I'll notice a small pool of oil, approximately 2" in diameter. The leak appears to be coming from the oil pan area. I degreased the entire oil pan area to get a better visual of where the leak is coming from. I can see oil trailing down the front of the oil pan and the rear of the oil pan. Does this sound like the gasket? Or, what else could it be? I'm praying its not as bad as I think and need to replace the gasket.
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Diesel smell in cab. 2000 F350 7.3 158K on the clock. Just noticed it 3 days ago. Been meaning to address the passenger side fuel line clamp issue. Learned about that one here. Gonna tear the stuff out to get at that one Tuesday. Replacing the clamp. Hope the fuel line is not already compromised.
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I have a leak in my inter-cooler system. I have replaced all the hoses. Is there a reason I should not pressure test the system with 20psi? 2001 F350 7.3 turbo
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I have a 2000 f350 manual transmission with electronic shift transfer case and my 4x4 won't kick on I've put it up on a lift and tried again but the front driveshaft won't spin and the light on my dash for the 4x4 won't work I'm also throwing 4 transfer case codes....
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I need a wiring diagram for my 2000 F-350 power mirrors also to go along with the power window schematics that I posted before.
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I am trying to track down a leak ..... pretty bad one. I just filled with oil truck fired right up and it didnt appear to leak until I turned the motor off then its pouring down passenger side around the starter and into the drain pan. Any clue?? I am thinking pedestal does it usually leak more as the motor is turned off...
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Fixed my 2000 7.3 F350 4x4 pedestal 0 ring leaks a month or 2 ago. Nothing on ground.
Ck'd my oil last couple days. Seems now 2 qts. low.
What might cause "oil use/burning"? Probably over about 1K miles or so.
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I have a 2000 F350 4x4 CC 7.3L 323,000 miles auto trans. I have removed my tuner just to make sure that it was not the issue. The truck will run fine then all of a sudden the idle will rise then fall or shudder or go up and down and sometimes it will just Die but it always restarts. No trouble lights at all. I am not sure what is causing the issue?
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3 ... A couple weeks ago I noticed that it was taking longer to start then it should be. Now I have to cycle the key switch 3 or 4 time to get it to start. There is a clicking coming from the relay block under the radio. Sometimes the truck will start sometimes it has to be rolled off. I have recently replace the starter and alternator. I have had the batteries tested and they are good. I replaced the two small relays in the block under the radio, one is for the fuel pump and the other I understand is for the door locks? I also read on here the large blue one is for the turn signal so I have not changed that one. After all this I still have the same problems.
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2000 F-350 7.3L no gauges or throttle, I checked the fuses and no luck....
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While headed back to town my 2000 f350 7.3 with 444,650 miles (I'm original owner) and have performed maintenance and repairs since mile 3. Truck started to loose power and eventually stalled, was able to restart several times to limp home 7 miles in one hell of a snow storm. Very confused, replaced cam position sensor ( keep one in jockey box ) replaced fuel filter truck starts then stalls out. Don't know if a bad HPOP would allow start up at all. Fuel pump???
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I have a 2000 F350 super duty 7.3 turbo diesel. It has 189 000 kms or about 150 000 miles. I have had problems all winter with my engine. I can drive it for days and then without warning she quits. She will not start right away but sometimes, if I drain the fuel filter and try her she fires right up and runs for about 10 minutes then quits again. If I wait a few hours, while waiting for a tow truck, she may start and again run for days but she may not...
I have a good friend who is a mechanic, and a cracker jack at it, but he is dumfounded as to what the problem is. She does not show any codes and my buddy has a computer analyser.
So far he has done what others have suggested including changing, Crank Sensor, IPR sensor, ICP sensor, new Lift pump, Fuel pressure regulator, and removed emptied and cleaned the fuel tank and suction lines.
All this to no success. Now we have run out of thoughts. All week I drove her without problem till yesterday when she quit again. There is no set time, weather condition or anything to suggest a problem so I reach out for a solution. The truck is in mint condition and very, very, far from being condemned but this is frustrating.
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Just a heads up when it comes to this code. Today at work I was working on a 2000 f350 that the driver neglected on telling me he had a CEL on and truck was kind of sluggish (drivers are idiots they cant tell the difference) but no miss or any sign of problem except the CEL (he had electrical tape on the cluster. Well I put my AE to see the vitals and immediately code p1316, so I went to do a buzz test revealing that cylinder 1,3,5,7,6 were short to open circuit (forgot the codes) but they all sounded healthy. My next step since it was a quick and easy to do was to check the passenger side uvch to see for burnt pins and what not but everything checked out.
Checked the driver side #6 cyl for the same problem bit a no go. I ohm tested the injectors all of them checked out, wires all the way to the idm checked out so at this point I was in my atemp to see what the hell was going on I decided to install my obs idm on, and guess what happened next it worked immediately the sel did not come up and when I test drove it, my god it felt like a new truck.
Just a side note the idm, had no sign of water damage, and like mentioned to the untrained person most would not tell the difference on how it ran. To anybody that has checked and can't find the problem make sure you really and I mean really check your IDM really good.
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My 00 F350 has never started when the temps were below 25 unless it was plugged in. This year is no different, but now it won't start when it's plugged in. It just turned 200K and I know things have to be checked, but I don't like doing them in the winter so I was hoping to make it through this winter and fix things. I needed to use the truck the other day so I plugged it in before I went to bed, It wouldn't start, so I got looking, crawled under the truck and the block around the heater was cold, checked the plug with an ohm meter and it showed that there was an open, so I checked the cord, sure enough there's a splice in it, with a broken wire, so I fix all three splices, check it again and it's still open, under the truck again, and find another splice at the end of the factory wire loom with a broke wire, got them replaced, got a good reading with the meter, and now I'm back in business, Plugged it in for a couple of hours, hit the key and it fired like it was new. Well not that good but it did start.
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Where the fuel pump is located on a 2000 F-350 7.3L Diesel? Also, how complex is replacing this?
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Am looking into buying a new transfer case (TC), and one web-site indicated there were 2 different automatic transmissions; Manual vs electronic -shift? So some TC's for 2000 AT's would not work? I found one (used) that was from a 2002.
My truck came to a grinding halt yesterday and I believe the TC. I had been hearing noise for a while and had been in the process of eliminating other causes (u-joints, ball joints) and think it was the TC all along.
I did not notice any issues with the AT prior.
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The night temperture was only about 37 degrees. But every morning my 2000 F-350 7.3 crew cab 188,000 on it would not start. The first try there would be a split second where the motor would fire, but that would be it. I had to plug the engine block heater into my generator for at least an hour before it would start. I don't see how all the glow plugs could be bad at once??
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We have had significant flooding in Oregon and my truck started to smell inside, like rotten milk. Now, I don't drink glorified coffee's or drink milk or milk chocolate . So while investigating this odor I pulled up the side floorboards with the little gripy circles, exists between the side of the seat and the door. On the passenger side and the carpet was pretty wet and the trough area was full of water. It looks like it dissipates towards the passenger back door. Where this water could come from? There are no visible signs from the door seal (it looks good). This is a F350 2000 Lariat Crew Cab.
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Lately I have been having problems loosing power. Truck wants to miss mostly going up hill and runs sluggish I'll pull off the road and let it idle for a minute and it will run fine. And it is only occasionally some days it don't happen at all and other days it happens quit often. New fuel filter, oil is good, had it on the scanner and isn't throwing any codes. Around 230k miles newer injectors.
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