Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 F450 Truck Not Starting
Apr 28, 2015
I have a 2000 F450 with a 7.3. I am having problems starting it. Batteries are good, engine turns over strong. It has started a few times after a extremely long crank (so long I am sure I am burning out the starter). I have replaced the CPS since it was cheap enough but that didn't make a difference. I have unplugged the ICP and it is very oily inside the connection. Does this mean the ICP should definitely be replaced? The truck will not start with the ICP unplugged. Should it be able to start with the ICP unplugged? Other items I plan on looking at at the IPR and possible the IDM box. Am I on the right track?
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Have a 7.3 powerstroke won't start.. I have went through tons of parts check everything I can think of. I have put icp, our, fuel pump, fuel pump, injector, glow plugs and relay, fuel and air filter. new starter, new valve cover harness. HPOP is good and compression is good?
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Okay a little update on my truck not starting, and for those who have not read my earlier post. My water in fuel light has been on in my truck for probably a month of use. I drained the water sep under the truck nonstop and added several bottles of water remover and the light would not go out so I assumed the sensor was just bad. (im new to owning a powerstroke btw) I broke down coming home from work, got it towed home, and still cant get it started. It will crank fine just wont fire up. I tried unplugging the ICP, i replaced the CPS, and ordered a new water sep/ fuel filter for under the truck. And the fuel filter on top was just replaced a month before breaking down. Every single time i drain the separator tons of clear water diluted fuel comes out before it turns greenish.
Not sure if this could be a cause of getting water in my fuel but one time i filled the truck up completely and it was like the water overfilled and probably a quart or two of fuel spewed out onto the ground. Not sure where it came from. Also I have just over a quarter tank so i was thinking maybe the float broke and I just needed to add fuel but today before i went to add fuel i drained the sep and tons of water came out... Im so worried about hydrolocking my engine or ruining my injectors. But I dont know if my issue even is water related if the sensor just went bad...
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I have a 2000 Ford F450 7.3 4x4 dully with a PTO driven winch 108,000 miles. The truck has develop a transmission slip.
I have changed the transmission fluid twice and it drives better but it slips badly. I can drive it up to highway speeds but it has problems getting from 0 to 10 MPH. The transmission runs hotter then normal but nothing major maybe around 205 degrees
Do I need a complete rebuild? This is a beater truck that I use to tow mainly. It is not worth a major investment. I need the PTO gear and 4x4.
I have several 2000 through 2003 7.3 E350 and E450 short school buses. Does the transmission from these has a PTO gear? I am thinking of pulling the transmission from one of them and swapping it.
It looks like the transfer case just bolts to the back of the transmission; I believe that a 2wd van 7.3 transmission will work with the 2000 F450 setup.
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I want test my fuel pressure. What is a good gauge or kit to buy? My truck has lost power towing and is now starting to miss a little. I'm wandering if i my problem is in the tank. Is there a good scan tool that would diagnose things too?
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I had issues with my F250 cranking last winter when the temperature dropped, so I changed out the glow plugs in the spring. I hadn't been able to truly test them yet, since it hasn't been cold, but the other morning my truck wouldn't crank up. It was 40 degrees out the night before, and it had been almost 24 hours since I cranked the truck, but it seems to me like the truck shouldn't have an issue in that mild weather.
I'm not sure what I need to do next to try and fix this problem, it's been driving me crazy and risks stranding me if I park for a while in an area where I am unable to plug by block heater in. The truck cranks fine when I have had it plugged in for a while, so I'm fairly certain it's a heating issue. I haven't done any tests since last year, but I know that the GPR was working properly last winter, which is why I changed out the glow plugs.
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2001 F250 7.3l 294k miles
Ok so truck has always had difficulty starting cold since I got it about 12k miles ago. Replaced glow plugs, that made things slightly better but still no start unless temp gauge was in that first line above the C. Changed to Rotella, immediately after oil change starts better and at slightly colder temps.
Since getting the truck when you turn the ignition on you can hear a 'whistling' type noise which I believe is the fuel system pressurising. That used to last as long as the chimes did when you first turn the ignition on. More recently it lasts a lot longer.
Towed recently and had intermittent check engine light - believe this could be HPOP related, haven't checked codes yet as we're on vacation. No oil in the valley. But I do have a little oil carry over in the turbo intercooler pipes.
Truck slightly sluggish at setting off initially and then picks up reasonably well when not towing but my Dyno says I'm putting a bit more pedal to get the same performance from say two months ago
Pretty sure injectors haven't been changed since truck was new but can't be absolutely certain as there is no history. I was surmising this is probably both a HPOP and injector age issue but only from what I've found searching...
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Got two brand-new Motorcraft batteries installed about a month ago and truck has been cranking great. However, the last couple days in the mornings the truck is starting slow and dragging as if the batteries are going bad. It does crank pretty quick but just has a noticeable starter drag now. Since I have no way of diagnosing the batteries with a tester over the holidays.
What are the odds that brand new batteries are going bad? I was thinking this is a starter issue since the drag is most prominent in the morning but it does it throughout the day while I'm driving driving on each start. But it's not as bad as the first start-up.
I hooked up a scan tool (Forscan and Dash Command) and the only trouble code I received that something to do with the turbo boost pressure fault, it was a code P1247. I don't see how a turbo boost pressure fault, low pressure, could have any starting related issues but you never know. Just a note this code only came up on my FORScan Lite app but it did not come up on the dash command app so I'm not sure if it's a legitimate code.
So I'm back to a battery or starter issue. Is there a way that I can check without much equipment to detect whether not I have a starter or battery problem. I do have a battery charger but no other equipment.
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I have a 2000 Excursion diesel 7.3. I drove it for an hour yesterday and it drove great. When I arrived home I left the truck running and put it in park. Checked the mailbox and jumped back in the truck and put it in drive and it would not move. Tried FWD and reverse. Moved a little in reverse.
I turned the truck off then cranked it back up put it in drive and it drove fine..... Took it for a test drive and seems fine.
Did the same thing today. Went to drop my kids off and I put it in park and left the engine running. Put it back into drive and it would not move.
Turned the vehicle off and back on. Put it in drive and it drove off fine.
Fluid is full, red and no burnt smell. Wondering if this is converter or electrical and how long I can drive it like this.
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While headed back to town my 2000 f350 7.3 with 444,650 miles (I'm original owner) and have performed maintenance and repairs since mile 3. Truck started to loose power and eventually stalled, was able to restart several times to limp home 7 miles in one hell of a snow storm. Very confused, replaced cam position sensor ( keep one in jockey box ) replaced fuel filter truck starts then stalls out. Don't know if a bad HPOP would allow start up at all. Fuel pump???
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Am looking into buying a new transfer case (TC), and one web-site indicated there were 2 different automatic transmissions; Manual vs electronic -shift? So some TC's for 2000 AT's would not work? I found one (used) that was from a 2002.
My truck came to a grinding halt yesterday and I believe the TC. I had been hearing noise for a while and had been in the process of eliminating other causes (u-joints, ball joints) and think it was the TC all along.
I did not notice any issues with the AT prior.
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I have a 1999 Ford F450 Tow truck with a 7.3 turbo. It loses power and misses when I give it gas but when driving normal speed no problems.
I had a ford technician look at problem with a computer and he said number 8 injector . Today number 8 was changed.
Test drove it same problem. I also changed th fuel filter. And I emptied the tank to make sure No water
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i have a 99 f450 7.3 that cranks but will not start. I did an injector buzz test but it sais no communication between the computers. it has a new rebuilt engine, new ipr, icp, hpop, water pump, and both computers.
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2000 Ford Excursion, 7.3 PS with 210,000 miles. I am on I40 at a truckstop. I was rolling down the freeway last night when the truck started bucking. I pulled of the freeway and here came a thunderstorm. I waited til this morning to check for codes cheap scanner. I pulled a code P1211. I waited for NAPA to open so I could take it in the shorts. I bought a fuel filter and an ICP sensor. After changing them out, the truck runs then starts missing. My battery is about to die so I will finish post shortly.
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My VIN inside the door is scratched enough that the State can't verify it. They need two locations to match the VIN otherwise the vehicle must be scheduled for a "level 3" vin inspection hundreds of miles away. Well I tried to find one on the engine where the DMV can do a "level 2" vin inspection but I can't find it. Where other vin's are on my 2002 Ford 450. Mine is a flat bed.
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2000 7.3 Excursion. Truck ran fine on a 5 hour trip for family vacation. Pulled and to where we were going turn the truck off then what I had to do I came outside try to restart the truck for the next three days it would take 2 to 3 cranks before it was would start. Then on day number three tried six times and didn't start went to bed woke up the next morning and it took three cranks to start. drove it down to mechanic shop near me they have been troubleshooting and think it's an electrical issue the code is P1280; he said there were a couple other codes too and he would tell me what they were later but he never has. I took him a new CPS a new ICM and a new PCM, none of that fixed it. I am at my wits end here and really have to have my truck for work every day.
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I have a 2001 F450 7.3 chassis cab with just over 100k. I have a new problem... So far on two different occasions the service engine came on followed by a loss of power under a load and white smoke from the exhaust. Took it to the shop the first time, they determined it to be a dirty air filter, which seemed odd since it just happened all of a sudden. They changed air & fuel filter, problem gone- for two weeks..
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I have a 1999 f450 7.3 diesel that surges and will stall but will start right back up again and drive. It does this over and over but all ways gets back to the shop. The engine starts good when cold so glow plugs are working correctly. What I have done:
Fuel filter change, check electric fuel pump but have not replaced it. I have replace camshaft sensor.
What I have found d by inspection:
Throttle pedal has 2 electrical connections one for the IVS and one for the TPS. I have experience on the 7.3 IDI diesels but very little on the newer injection system.
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Recently I have had many problems with my 2000 7.3l .... The one I cant get rid of is the p1316 code. I have changed out the uvc harness and gasket with new ones, then removed valve cover's to double check connections again and they are fine. I am getting white smoke and the truck misses. I do not have a advanced reader for the codes just using my edge programmer. I have also disconnected the battery and cleared the code but it comes right back.
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The truck is a 2002 F450 7.3 diesel with about 120k Miles.
While driving from 45-70Mph the truck engine stops for about 1 second and starts back up by itself. I thought the problem was the cps so I replaced it with a ford CPS. Today the problem still persists. The truck engine turns off and comes back on, the tach drops to 0 rpm and so does the speed.
The Check Engine Light comes on and so does the water in fuel light and so does the Check Gage light. After I turn off the truck and start it back up the truck does not show the lights.
I believe I found the issue, but can't look into it today. While I was moving some of the wires on the truck I found out that if I move the red/black bunch just a little bit the truck shuts off and comes back on when i let it go.
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The other day, I started having problems with the truck not starting when at operating temp. Went for a drive and stopped a a scenic overlook, and spent about 30 minutes taking pictures. Went back to the truck, and it wouldn't start. Outside temp was about 95 degrees.
I tried for about half an hour to start it, but all it would do is turn over. There was a work crew there with their heavy machinery, and I was able to borrow their starting fluid. One quick squirt into the intake, and it fired right up.
Although I do have an oil leak from the right valve cover, when I checked the oil, it was just off the full mark. The truck was parked on a slight angle with the driver side being about a foot higher than the passenger side.
2003 F350 w/6.0, 180,000 miles
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