Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 - Injector Engine Wire Harness
Feb 9, 2016
I'm trying to find a part number for the wiring harness that sits on top of the motor and plugs into the valve cover gaskets. The previous owner replaced the pigtails but the wires were cut so far back that there is virtually nothing left coming out of the harness. What the actual harness looks like other than it has the 9 pin plug on it or whether both sides require an individual harness. What is the part number or picture of said harness. Just in case.... it's a 2001 7.3.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
So after hitting a pothole, it would seem like half the engine lost power, after some searching around, i found that i would most likely be the harness inside the valve cover that has lost connection.
Its the right side, so i would need to take of the turbo pipe, and probably something else to get to it.
Since i'm doing this job, what to check out along the way? I want my 7.3 to be as reliable as possible.
I will probably ask some questions along the way, it can be a challenge sometimes to own a car that not many mechanics are familiar with, but as i have read online, this should be a very straight forward fix.
Can the harness be upgraded so it doesn't happen again? Its an 02
View 14 Replies
As part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.
I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)
Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?
View 14 Replies
I have a 2000 Ford F550 7.3. I bought a Superchips programmer to read the codes on my truck and up pops this P1316, so I did some research and found out that the most common problem is the injector wiring harness. I bought new valve cover gaskets and the injector wiring as well because the truck is old and I figured new wires wouldn't hurt.
So after installing the new wiring harness and gaskets I'm still getting this Code! The truck idles rough and serge's sometimes, also there is a lack of power and some shaking between 40 and 50 miles per hour, however form 50 to 60 MPH seem's to be just fine. I don't trust the "Mechanic Shops" around here and will only take the truck in as a last resort.
View 10 Replies
I have an 01 F-250 Powerstroke. It has been shaking terribly at around 1500 rpms and shutters while holding the brake and increasing engine speed. I took it to the dealer and they told me that my #1 injector is bad. I decided to check around a little bit. I found a diesel service dealer that has brand new injectors. (Not rebuilts). Anyway I would like to attempt to install this injector myself.
1. Which injector is #1? (I've done a lot of mechanic work but not a whole lot on engines.)
2. What do you do with the fuel and oil that get into the cylinder? Do you have to get it sucked out?
3. Anything else that is crucial? What do you have to torque the injector bolt to?
View 11 Replies
Where I can get the head light to fog light wiring harness..it is almost as hard as finding the holly grail..... 2001 f350 7.3 .......
View 9 Replies
I have an '01 F-350 7.3 Turbo diesel. When the engine is cold it chatters quite a bit and after it warms up it still chatters a lot but not as bad. It starts right up every time, even on cold days. Doesn't have a miss and idles smoothly (except for the noise). Seems to run fine with plenty of power, just really noisy. It has an edge programmer on it with 5 settings- Stock, Mileage, Tow, Race, and Extreme. When it is set to stock, mileage or tow, it is pretty noisy but about the same on all 3 settings. When it is set to race or extreme, it sounds like the engine is about to fly apart but has really good power. I never run it in race or extreme because it sounds like it may be hurting the engine.
View 14 Replies
Had to change the UVC harness on my 2001 7.3. Truck fell out. Trailered it home and changed the UVC harness on the passenger side. Truck is running great, but now the OD light is flashing. Can't read transmission codes, but was wondering if something from the bad harness could have caused this? Any thoughts?
View 7 Replies
I have a 2001 F350 XLT with cloth seats. In 2003 I upgraded those seats to power seats.
- When I upgraded to power seats I did not run a new power wire. Since my 2001 was at least fused for power and heated seats I located the Power seat 30amp power wire.
- That wire is located on engine compartment fuse #15 (Circuit 5298 as I recall) and Dark Green. It comes through the firewall and runs down the drivers side kick panel along the floor and then intersects with the power and ground seat belt wires that ran under the seat.
- The ground wire was coiled and attached to a ground stud behind the drivers side kick panel.
About a month ago I had a mouse get in and chew my seat wiring to shreds. I built my own harness and am good to go there, however since I had these seats all apart I decided to replace the foam and add HEAT.
So that brings me to the specific question. In the engine compartment fuse box, there is a 30amp positive wire for Heated seats. My schematic says it is a 14 gauge wire RD/BK on circuit 1153.
Where in the heck is this wire? I have literally tore the dash apart looking for this wire.
- I have verified the following with my fluke continuity tester.
- It is not part of the four customer access wires that drop on the right side of the interior fuse panel.
- It is not part of the tow wire bundle.
- I have checked the bundle that the Dark Green Power seat wire is in and there are no RD/BK wires in that bundle. I also poked the other 2 14 gauge (Yellow/Blue) wires in that bundle and verified they are not them.
-I have checked the three wire bundles behind the passenger side glove box and was unable to locate.
- I have verified it is not stored behind the compartment below the cigarette lighter.
I am looking for info which wire I am talking about and knows where Ford stored them when not used by having the XLT Trim with cloth seats. Yes I am aware that I can run an additional wire with a 30 amp fuse to the batter, but I would prefer to use the system and fuse that was designed for this.
View 2 Replies
I am currently doing my injectors. Just a quick question. I was trying to get the fuel rail drain plug out but it stripped, actually not on the driver side stripped. I know there is the drain plug on the back of the cylinder. If I drain that and turn the crank over by hand will that drain all the oil and fuel that has drained into the cylinder? I'm really not trying to bend a rod when I turn this thing over. It's A 2001 7.3
View 5 Replies
Is there a difference between the two harness #'s here besides the first number:
3C3z9d930aa
4C3z9d930aa
Are they the same part? Is one for a different model truck than the other?
View 7 Replies
Will a 05 injector harness work on a early 04?
View 1 Replies
My fathers truck had the tail lights go out the other night so we checked the fuse and the bulbs both good. Took it to ford and they found that a wire harness in the front left wheel well had rubbed through and needed replacement. I went and checked mine and yup it was rubbing through the wire just not all the way yet. Might want to take a look. It is at the top of the well near the coil spring. I will get the camera out tomorrow in the daylight and take a picture of the location.
View 13 Replies
My dumb self cut my factory harness to install a radio and after hooking up said radio (which I know how to do) it popped a fuse. So to avoid any trouble I need to put another harness in but again with my stupidity I cut the wires too short. finding the correct harness
View 2 Replies
im in the process of replacing the injector cups and i knew this would happen since the whole process went way to easy up until this part. I am using Clays remover kit and it will not remove the cup. I do it according to the book and it just keeps popping out of the cup when i try to remove
View 14 Replies
Now ive got a tick tick tick tick sound from the engine. The tick increases and decreases with rpm and is present at idle. If it were a gasser i would say a lifter, honestly it kinda reminds me of a sewing machine lol.
Whatever it is as long as its not serious and my engine is solid im ok w it, I bought this truck knowing I was going to have to put work into it, I just didn't know work was going to go fall one after the other week by week from the day I got it....the previous owner must really have neglected this thing....
Hard to hear it over the sound of the engine, but its there, and is slowly getting worse
[URL]
View 13 Replies
Although not certain, I *thought* I saw coolant run into the front drivers side injector hole when the injector was out and I leaned on the radiator hose. I had knowledge t pull them and changing the orings who were initially concerned then not concerned after looking closer.
Either I made a mistake in what I thought I saw on my first experience with injectors, or there really is a problem that I didn't know enough about to address at the time. So I opened this thread to get more info and stop hijacking 67speeda's thread, found here: [URL] ....
As per recommendations, I will check my coolant bottle for any fuel, oil, residue, etc. I am also going to reach out to my buddies and see if they saw a problem with coolant, too, or they realized it wasn't coolant and I didn't take note of it ...
It was a REALLY LONG day and my ability to concentrate had begun to slip quickly (health issues), so it's possible I missed something there. So IF I saw coolant going into that cylinder with the injector removed, how bad would that be? I thought it came from pretty high up and ran down where the injector sits..
View 9 Replies
While engine was running. brake switch "recall harness" shorted to exhaust manifold blowing fuse 22. truck died instantly. found the short and replaced fuse. checked all fuses good but no start since. WTS indicator stays on. tried a new GPR and a new CPS.
Does IPR and brake switch (on master cylinder) share fuse 22? fuse 22 holds now (when wire was fused to exhaust manifold it blew as soon as key turned on). unplugged FBH no change. recall harness "beeps" good and wires do not appear burnt. also shuffled relays around in central junction box.
Could formerly access OBD2 port with superchips programmer but no access now. fearing the worst, but hoping maybe bad ipr sensor (or another sensor) could cause this. Is it likely or not that this short fried the PCM?
View 9 Replies
I am going to add some led's to illuminate the steps getting into my truck at night. I plan on putting them directly under the door over the steps. Is there a wire under the door threshold I can tap into at each door? If so what color? If not, where to get the power from. I want them to turn on and off with the interior lights when doors are opened.
View 1 Replies
Story starts when I was cruising down the freeway and the truck cut out, seemed like a CPS or Injector related issue - seemed like a whole cylinder bank cut out. Stopped truck on shoulder, she shuttered and died. Turned truck off and restarted, ran like a top for about 4 miles then did the same again. I restarted it again and drive it straight home, ran like it I usually did.
As soon as I arrived home I did a little research and learned to start with CPS. I replaced my grey CPS with a new, Ford grey CPS. Truck fired up, ran the same that it did before - not the best idle but at 302k I was content. Drove it for a few days and it did it again, hobbled the truck home, although it did do it a few times and the last time it did it was really hard to start.
I replaced the IDM through NAPA. She's a work truck so I wasn't going to splurge for a Swamp Unit, the NAPA one came with an 18-Month Warrenty. She started right up afterward, the smoothest idle I had ever felt and she ran great, except for an SES. I ran the code and it was an IDM code, ran a buzz test and it pulled injector #5 high/low error, but it buzzed (a bit quieter than the others).
Here's the weirdest part, when the motor is cold the SES is constant, but as it warms up it only shows under power and sometimes flashes off at certain RPMs (1700-1900 and 2100-2300) and turns off when engine braking (TC locked) returns at idle. NO engine lights with the old IDM. I've checked the wiring to the injector from the 42-pin to the outer connector. (.6-.7 ohms, what my meter reads without any loads) Injector (from outer connector) reads 3.2 ohms. UVCH is less then 2 months old (GP issues) injectors have less than 5k on them.
Why? New injector solenoid? Bad IDM? Is it possible my last one never fired #5 and it got stuck? Or did my old IDM fry #5? Also I'm going to keep driving it and maybe it'll clear up, there was one drive I took where it cleared up completely. I've done some extensive research on this an i'm stumped. With the new IDM the truck has run better then it ever has.
View 9 Replies
Would it be a good idea to change the injector hold down bolts when I do the injector o-rings? They have never been out at 333,000 miles.
Plan on doing glow plugs, injector wiring, valve cover gasket's, intercooler pipes and the dreaded oil cooler.
View 14 Replies
