Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 - No Start After Harness Shorts
May 15, 2016
While engine was running. brake switch "recall harness" shorted to exhaust manifold blowing fuse 22. truck died instantly. found the short and replaced fuse. checked all fuses good but no start since. WTS indicator stays on. tried a new GPR and a new CPS.
Does IPR and brake switch (on master cylinder) share fuse 22? fuse 22 holds now (when wire was fused to exhaust manifold it blew as soon as key turned on). unplugged FBH no change. recall harness "beeps" good and wires do not appear burnt. also shuffled relays around in central junction box.
Could formerly access OBD2 port with superchips programmer but no access now. fearing the worst, but hoping maybe bad ipr sensor (or another sensor) could cause this. Is it likely or not that this short fried the PCM?
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So after hitting a pothole, it would seem like half the engine lost power, after some searching around, i found that i would most likely be the harness inside the valve cover that has lost connection.
Its the right side, so i would need to take of the turbo pipe, and probably something else to get to it.
Since i'm doing this job, what to check out along the way? I want my 7.3 to be as reliable as possible.
I will probably ask some questions along the way, it can be a challenge sometimes to own a car that not many mechanics are familiar with, but as i have read online, this should be a very straight forward fix.
Can the harness be upgraded so it doesn't happen again? Its an 02
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I recently purchased a 2011 F550 Super Duty with a flatbed mounted on it. Turns out, the trailer wiring harness is totally screwed up and I am getting tons of shorts whenever it rains. Going through it front to back, we are finding multiple problems like missing fuse box covers, damaged fuses for starters. The Ford dealership in Texas that did my prepurchase inspection for me totally missed all of this, so i am stuck holding the short end.
IN the rear of the truck we detected shorts in several areas. One of them is in this adapter pictured along with this. Is this a Ford part, or does it appear aftermarket? Is it just an adapter or is it more than that? I am just now getting to l know this truck more specifically. given the date of manufacture on the label it would seem to be from Ford??? Part # is 99-004 and 71-012-A...
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My dumb self cut my factory harness to install a radio and after hooking up said radio (which I know how to do) it popped a fuse. So to avoid any trouble I need to put another harness in but again with my stupidity I cut the wires too short. finding the correct harness
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I am going to add some led's to illuminate the steps getting into my truck at night. I plan on putting them directly under the door over the steps. Is there a wire under the door threshold I can tap into at each door? If so what color? If not, where to get the power from. I want them to turn on and off with the interior lights when doors are opened.
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As part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.
I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)
Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?
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Where I can get the head light to fog light wiring harness..it is almost as hard as finding the holly grail..... 2001 f350 7.3 .......
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I have what might be a big problem, the main harness on top of the drivers side valve cover I can't get undone, the bolt holding it together is stripped or the nut who knows? wondering if there is any way to take it apart otherwise.
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My 2000 f350 has wires that dont match anything I've seen. I need to mate this to an 08 harness so I need to be accurate. I have
(2) yellow. I know this is 12v constant
(2) green/purple I know this is 12v constant
(1) red/black
(2) solid red
(1) solid black
(1) gray/light blue
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I'm trying to find a part number for the wiring harness that sits on top of the motor and plugs into the valve cover gaskets. The previous owner replaced the pigtails but the wires were cut so far back that there is virtually nothing left coming out of the harness. What the actual harness looks like other than it has the 9 pin plug on it or whether both sides require an individual harness. What is the part number or picture of said harness. Just in case.... it's a 2001 7.3.
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I have a 2000 Ford F550 7.3. I bought a Superchips programmer to read the codes on my truck and up pops this P1316, so I did some research and found out that the most common problem is the injector wiring harness. I bought new valve cover gaskets and the injector wiring as well because the truck is old and I figured new wires wouldn't hurt.
So after installing the new wiring harness and gaskets I'm still getting this Code! The truck idles rough and serge's sometimes, also there is a lack of power and some shaking between 40 and 50 miles per hour, however form 50 to 60 MPH seem's to be just fine. I don't trust the "Mechanic Shops" around here and will only take the truck in as a last resort.
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Had to change the UVC harness on my 2001 7.3. Truck fell out. Trailered it home and changed the UVC harness on the passenger side. Truck is running great, but now the OD light is flashing. Can't read transmission codes, but was wondering if something from the bad harness could have caused this? Any thoughts?
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I have a 2002 f350 psd. I pulled it inside today to wash it. After washing it wouldn't start. Pcm is working. No oil pressure on guage and no reading on tach.
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I have a 2002 7.3l with 229k miles. So I am having a big problem now missing oil! My reservoir is empty and my dip stick is reading low, and i just put 16 quarts in yesterday with the new filter! im having a long start issue obviously because i don't have any oil supply! just drove the truck today, ran great been having this issue for the past week. here are the details. i came up from Texas after installing joeys t500 pump, when i arrived to California there was oil everywhere! my pump that joey rebuilt had an issue so he sent me another and bam! runs great no probs, now after about to weeks and about 15 degree temp drop i get hard starting. first time instead of a 2 second start up it took 9 seconds, now it takes anywhere from 9-20 seconds to start! so after my drive today i let it sit for about 3 hours seeing if maybe i had air in the lines from the res not being full, well now i cant get a start at all my res is empty and my dipstick shows little oil, i just replaced the icp. ipr, and eot when i put the first pump in, could this be the lpop?
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2002 F350 7.3 intermittently wont start after I've shut it off, it runs fine but sometimes won't start when it's (warm)? Wait hour or more and it starts right up.
Is there something I can look for before I bring it to a mechanic?
Just to clarify I am a gal with little wrenching skills but I can look at videos and follow directions if it's not too involved.
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It is on random times that after I fill up at a gas station, my truck decides it does not want to start. In fact 99% of the failure to start issues only happen after a fill-up. I am typing this now on just such a non-starter issue. Waiting 20 min and it fires right up. During regular driving, runs like a champ, great power good milage (for a 7.3) ...
I have tried random "tests" such as driving to the store, waiting for the duration of time it would take to full up my tank and it starts no problem. Anytime I try to make it happen I cant. The fuel filter is clean, CPS is new, the fuel pump is working. Don't know if it is a temp sensor thing sending wrong info glow plug issue, or? Ghost in the machine?
its 2002 7.3 with 125000 miles. I have had the truck for four years and this issue just started last fall (oct 2016). It happens infrequentaly enough to forget about it until it happens again.
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So a few weeks back, i went to the store after work, came out and my truck just cranked and cranked but wouldn't turn over. I simply turned the key off and back on, waited for the WTS light to go out and she started up. I just blew it off, thinking i didn't wait long enough to start it.
Then, later that week i come out of a restaurant and it cranks and cranks but doesn't start. i tried turning the key off and on, waiting 30 seconds between em and still nothing. Then a few minutes later, i try again and she fires up, no problems and runs like a champ.
Well 2 fridays ago, I go out with some buddies, go to leave and it happens again. Cranks and cranks, but not starting. I got a ride to my place, grabbed a fuel filter, thinking maybe its clogged, it's been awhile since i changed it. I got back to my truck, and it started up fine, without changing the filter.
Then last night as i am out of town, 10 hours away from home it happens again. And i kept trying and trying and trying but it never wanted to start. I was about to submit my payment for the Uber back to my hotel when i decide to try it again and it fired right up.
Now I'm kind of afraid to drive anywhere and shut off my truck in fear of being stranded. What could be causing this? I've looked every where and havent found someone with the exact same problem, usually when i find a thread on turning over but not starting, the truck dies once it runs as well. Mine doesn't. when it starts, she runs great.
No smoke coming out the tail pipe when cranking.
WTS light comes on and off as it should.
Tach does not move, and it won't because it's a 2002.
Where to start, would the CPS cause it to act this way? It only seems to do it when the engine is warm.
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I have a 2002 F-250 with a 7.3.
I have been having a no crank, no start issue off and on for a while. batteries are new, cables are new, connections are clean, and starter has been rebuilt and checked. I bought a "starter relay" which i thought was the top solenoid in this picture. I also replaced the lower solenoid in the picture. The bottom solenoid was replaced with what im sure is the correct replacement. The upper I think is wrong. It started but then shut down and will not restart. The upper solenoid also was very hot after it shut down.
Long story short what is the upper solenoid for? Im assuming its not the starter solenoid. If so where is the Starter solenoid on a 2002 7.3?
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I just got delivered a 7.3L from down south. Batteries were dead so replaced both. Fuel was a couple notches above red line (much closer to red line than 1/4 tank) so I added about 7-8 gallons.
It will crank forever and ever...Won't start.
With starter fluid it starts but not strong enough to pump the pedal and rev it up to keep it idling.
I know s-fluid is bad but if I continuously spray with key turned forward it will run but as soon as I let go of key it shuts off.
20 degree weather and it was delivered to a parking lot so I cannot plug it in.
Was told to check filter cap, turn key, and see if it fills bowl with fuel....if not then it is fuel pump. Someone else mentioned that it could be bad crank position sensor? Does this sound like fuel pump?
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Here are the details. Just replaced my HPOP, IPR and ICP and while driving at 75mph I hear a loud pop under the hood. Several seconds later CEL comes on and I have no power and the engine is shutting down as normal. I pull over, get out and there is a massive amount of engine oil everywhere, I get it and the first thing I look for is the HPOP area and the "non-serviceable" plug is GONE.
I was able to find the metal piece that goes in between the plug and the ball, but no ball. I find the dimensions of the tiny ball (.25") and replace it. I order the long thread fix from RIFFRAFF install it and now I have a no start issue. While waiting for parts I change the oil and filter, clean the oil soaked engine and pray that nothing else was messed up. I do not have an AE or OBD-II, the truck has 300k on it....
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my 2002 7.3 with 370k just started to puff a small cloud of white smoke on start up. i realize this is normal during cold months but it is currently 102* in Texas. it will do it on the first start up of the day or if i start it immediately after shutting it off at full operating temps and when i do get a smell of the white cloud it has a oil smell but this only lasts while the cloud is dispersing all of that only lasts about 2-3 seconds no loss of power good boost pressure when driving no rough idle at all nothing acting any different other than the cloud and the quick smell of oil...
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