Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 - Won't Start After Fill Up At Gas Station?
Apr 23, 2017
It is on random times that after I fill up at a gas station, my truck decides it does not want to start. In fact 99% of the failure to start issues only happen after a fill-up. I am typing this now on just such a non-starter issue. Waiting 20 min and it fires right up. During regular driving, runs like a champ, great power good milage (for a 7.3) ...
I have tried random "tests" such as driving to the store, waiting for the duration of time it would take to full up my tank and it starts no problem. Anytime I try to make it happen I cant. The fuel filter is clean, CPS is new, the fuel pump is working. Don't know if it is a temp sensor thing sending wrong info glow plug issue, or? Ghost in the machine?
its 2002 7.3 with 125000 miles. I have had the truck for four years and this issue just started last fall (oct 2016). It happens infrequentaly enough to forget about it until it happens again.
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I have a 2002 f350 psd. I pulled it inside today to wash it. After washing it wouldn't start. Pcm is working. No oil pressure on guage and no reading on tach.
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I have a 2002 7.3l with 229k miles. So I am having a big problem now missing oil! My reservoir is empty and my dip stick is reading low, and i just put 16 quarts in yesterday with the new filter! im having a long start issue obviously because i don't have any oil supply! just drove the truck today, ran great been having this issue for the past week. here are the details. i came up from Texas after installing joeys t500 pump, when i arrived to California there was oil everywhere! my pump that joey rebuilt had an issue so he sent me another and bam! runs great no probs, now after about to weeks and about 15 degree temp drop i get hard starting. first time instead of a 2 second start up it took 9 seconds, now it takes anywhere from 9-20 seconds to start! so after my drive today i let it sit for about 3 hours seeing if maybe i had air in the lines from the res not being full, well now i cant get a start at all my res is empty and my dipstick shows little oil, i just replaced the icp. ipr, and eot when i put the first pump in, could this be the lpop?
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While engine was running. brake switch "recall harness" shorted to exhaust manifold blowing fuse 22. truck died instantly. found the short and replaced fuse. checked all fuses good but no start since. WTS indicator stays on. tried a new GPR and a new CPS.
Does IPR and brake switch (on master cylinder) share fuse 22? fuse 22 holds now (when wire was fused to exhaust manifold it blew as soon as key turned on). unplugged FBH no change. recall harness "beeps" good and wires do not appear burnt. also shuffled relays around in central junction box.
Could formerly access OBD2 port with superchips programmer but no access now. fearing the worst, but hoping maybe bad ipr sensor (or another sensor) could cause this. Is it likely or not that this short fried the PCM?
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2002 F350 7.3 intermittently wont start after I've shut it off, it runs fine but sometimes won't start when it's (warm)? Wait hour or more and it starts right up.
Is there something I can look for before I bring it to a mechanic?
Just to clarify I am a gal with little wrenching skills but I can look at videos and follow directions if it's not too involved.
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So a few weeks back, i went to the store after work, came out and my truck just cranked and cranked but wouldn't turn over. I simply turned the key off and back on, waited for the WTS light to go out and she started up. I just blew it off, thinking i didn't wait long enough to start it.
Then, later that week i come out of a restaurant and it cranks and cranks but doesn't start. i tried turning the key off and on, waiting 30 seconds between em and still nothing. Then a few minutes later, i try again and she fires up, no problems and runs like a champ.
Well 2 fridays ago, I go out with some buddies, go to leave and it happens again. Cranks and cranks, but not starting. I got a ride to my place, grabbed a fuel filter, thinking maybe its clogged, it's been awhile since i changed it. I got back to my truck, and it started up fine, without changing the filter.
Then last night as i am out of town, 10 hours away from home it happens again. And i kept trying and trying and trying but it never wanted to start. I was about to submit my payment for the Uber back to my hotel when i decide to try it again and it fired right up.
Now I'm kind of afraid to drive anywhere and shut off my truck in fear of being stranded. What could be causing this? I've looked every where and havent found someone with the exact same problem, usually when i find a thread on turning over but not starting, the truck dies once it runs as well. Mine doesn't. when it starts, she runs great.
No smoke coming out the tail pipe when cranking.
WTS light comes on and off as it should.
Tach does not move, and it won't because it's a 2002.
Where to start, would the CPS cause it to act this way? It only seems to do it when the engine is warm.
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I have a 2002 F-250 with a 7.3.
I have been having a no crank, no start issue off and on for a while. batteries are new, cables are new, connections are clean, and starter has been rebuilt and checked. I bought a "starter relay" which i thought was the top solenoid in this picture. I also replaced the lower solenoid in the picture. The bottom solenoid was replaced with what im sure is the correct replacement. The upper I think is wrong. It started but then shut down and will not restart. The upper solenoid also was very hot after it shut down.
Long story short what is the upper solenoid for? Im assuming its not the starter solenoid. If so where is the Starter solenoid on a 2002 7.3?
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I just got delivered a 7.3L from down south. Batteries were dead so replaced both. Fuel was a couple notches above red line (much closer to red line than 1/4 tank) so I added about 7-8 gallons.
It will crank forever and ever...Won't start.
With starter fluid it starts but not strong enough to pump the pedal and rev it up to keep it idling.
I know s-fluid is bad but if I continuously spray with key turned forward it will run but as soon as I let go of key it shuts off.
20 degree weather and it was delivered to a parking lot so I cannot plug it in.
Was told to check filter cap, turn key, and see if it fills bowl with fuel....if not then it is fuel pump. Someone else mentioned that it could be bad crank position sensor? Does this sound like fuel pump?
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Here are the details. Just replaced my HPOP, IPR and ICP and while driving at 75mph I hear a loud pop under the hood. Several seconds later CEL comes on and I have no power and the engine is shutting down as normal. I pull over, get out and there is a massive amount of engine oil everywhere, I get it and the first thing I look for is the HPOP area and the "non-serviceable" plug is GONE.
I was able to find the metal piece that goes in between the plug and the ball, but no ball. I find the dimensions of the tiny ball (.25") and replace it. I order the long thread fix from RIFFRAFF install it and now I have a no start issue. While waiting for parts I change the oil and filter, clean the oil soaked engine and pray that nothing else was messed up. I do not have an AE or OBD-II, the truck has 300k on it....
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my 2002 7.3 with 370k just started to puff a small cloud of white smoke on start up. i realize this is normal during cold months but it is currently 102* in Texas. it will do it on the first start up of the day or if i start it immediately after shutting it off at full operating temps and when i do get a smell of the white cloud it has a oil smell but this only lasts while the cloud is dispersing all of that only lasts about 2-3 seconds no loss of power good boost pressure when driving no rough idle at all nothing acting any different other than the cloud and the quick smell of oil...
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I have a 2002 f350 that has had cold starting issues since I bought it. I have replaced the glow plugs twice, the glow plug solenoid four times. When I put a new solenoid on it it works fine for a short time. I know the solenoids are bad because I get battery voltage on one side and nothing on the other. If I jump the solenoid with a jumper wire I can get the truck to start. I thought I was getting bad solenoids but I have recently tested the activation circuit and am getting constant power there. I.e. It never shuts off. I think this is what is causing the solenoids to burn up. From the tracing of wiring diagrams I have done, the only thing before the solenoid is the Pcm. So now to the question,
1) What controls the activation of the Glow plugs? Is there a temperature sensor or something before the Pcm.
2) Is this a case of my Pcm going out on me? I am a mechanic in the army so I have a decent understanding of mechanics.
However I am at a loss for these systems.
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So I went out this morning to start the truck up like I do every morning. It cranked once, and didn't start, which is somewhat normal. second crank it started right up, which is normal, then after about 2 minutes, it seemed like the rpms were bouncing and the engine got a little more slower and louder, then it dipped below 500, then stalled. After that moment nothing. It just cranks. Now it was VERY low on fuel, I've been this low on fuel and never had anything like this happen, so my neighbor took me up to the station and I bought 2 gallons. came back, still nada. I went out after letting it sit on the block heater for about an hour and noticed a small puddle of fuel under the truck on the passenger side. I went to start it and the fuel gauge went up to a half tank. cranked, no start. then again and it went up again but slowly started creeping back down.
Now the kicker, I have very limited knowledge of diesel engines, or gas for that matter. So if my intuition is right, this is probably going to be a learning experience for me... what should I check first guys? Its plugged in right now but I am sure that's not gonna fix it.. I am gonna change the oil first since it needs it, I bought shell rotella triple t 15w40 which im assuming is ok. last winter It was leaking fuel when it was really cold out but that was it, just leaking a bit and then after spring it went away. I know I should have fixed it when it started but I have an extreme anxiety to letting any mechanic near my vehicles and just about as much anxiety trying to fix it myself. I'm at a loss for what to do, I'm a pro with computers but this truck scares the crap out of me, I'm terrified I'll do something worse.
2002 Ford F250 Powerstroke 7.3 4x4, 218,000 Miles....
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Got a 2002 7.3 F-350 with 300,000 miles and for the last couple of years I've been getting blue smoke on cold morning start ups and its been gradually getting worse, it clears up after about 30 seconds and all is normal,No loss of performance, Oil consumption is minor, however I hate a vehicle that blue smokes, I'm guessing my issue is valve seals are worn, I was wondering if it is possible to replace the seals while the heads are on the engine? and was also wondering how much time it would take to fix? as i would have to have it professionally done. I know its hard to guess a time frame and everyone is different. Sounds like textbook valve seals to me but is there anything else I should check first?
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My beloved excursion is 300 miles away from me in a no start condition. Vehicle has 270K miles. Very well cared for. No issues to date since purchase 5 years ago. Went to back up and the vehicle starting Caming like it had a big cam in it. went from reverse to drive and problem went away. Drove vehicle for 2 more weeks without issue. Then all of a sudden it dies. Restart driver on down the road 1/4 mile, dies again. Restart, make 45 mile drive home vehicle is low on power will hardly pull a grade but I got to my friends house. Went to start vehicle next day and no start. Puff white smoke while trying to start. It hits every once in awhile but wont run.
The vehicle is throwing NO CODES other than an open glow plug on 1&8 which it has for sometime now. I have changed, fuel filter, fuel pump, CPS(genuine ford), IPR and IPS. No real changes still wont start. I disconnected the IPS and it started but it sounded like it was only running on a couple of cylinders. It would not accept throttle. The local Forddealer does not have a Ford diesel tech. Ive called a couple of diesel shops and I hear could be a bad HPOP, or bad ECM or a bad IDM but without seeing it. I am at my wits end with this thing. I am an electronic engineer by background. So I have a good sense of the process. I have checked all fuses, relays, etc. I will say I did have one issue with it a year ago where the UVC problem popped up but the dealer fixed it and it has been fine ever since.
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I am fairly new to powerstrokes, but have a general understanding how the 7.3l operates, and how the fuel system works.
The problem i am experiencing is a crank, no start. The truck has been great for the year and a half that i have owned it. Always cranked great and never any starting or running issues. One day upon cranking, i started the motor; it started normal running good for a minute until the motor suddenly started shuttering and then the motor shut off, happened rather quickly. The truck started up immediately after that and died....repeating the shutter until dead. Now the truck will not start.
Specs on truck:
2002 7.3l
230,000 miles
Manual transmission
Here's what i have replaced so far:
New parts include:
IPR (motorcraft)
ICP (motorcraft)
EBPV (napa)
CPS (napa)
IDM (reman)
Here are some of the diagnostic values i have collected during cranking: (FYI: i am a little confused on what the values mean and what they should be in order for the motor to start):
ICP: 2218 psi
ICP duty cycle: 41%
EBP: 265 kpa
battery voltage: 12.0
Rpm: 355
Things i have checked so far:
Oil is new and level is good.
WTS light cycles as normal.
Fuel bowl is full and over flows with cap off while cranking.
Fuel tank is above half.
Glow plug relay is good.
I was throwing a code for the PCM, but i removed the bully dog tuner and the code has since cleared.
HPOP oil is an inch below full.
I made a gauge set and dead headed HPOP yielding 1500psi.
Upon cranking i am seeing some smoke, i guess, but its kind of hard to tell from the drivers seat.
This is where i am at so far. I don't have a way to buzz test the injectors or tell if they are leaking past the orings. I have the valve covers removed, but i have been putting off pulling the injectors to replace the orings.
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This is an issue I started chasing after having all the injectors replaced on my aunt's F-350. We had them replaced due to hard/no start on cold (dealership told her they needed to be changed). Unfortunately, I did not get the buzz test results before changing the injectors.
So far that has been replaced:
Injectors
ICP (was leaking)
IPR
both UVCH
IDM (twice)
The issue we are having right now is that only 2 injectors (#6, #7) buzz properly. Initially when we changed the injectors, it did start but didn't seem to run quite right. We did the buzz test and at that time and injectors 1,3,5,6,7 would buzz strong but the rest were weak. After some forum lurking, we suspected that the IDM was faulty. We purchased a refurbished one and after we changed it, only injectors 6,7 would buzz strong. Thinking a faulty IDM was sent it back for a replacement. While waiting, we decided to put the old one back in figuring it would go back as it was before but only 6,7 would buzz strong. We receive the second IDM and same thing, only 6,7 buzz strong. We did a continuity test from the IDM connector and they all get 2.7 ohms (it was an older multimeter so not sure if being .1 under the 2.8-3.6 range is bad).
What I did next is use the uvch external pigtail to test the injectors. I plugged the extra pig tail into the uvch and then the ends of the wires into the plug of the upper harness. Afterwards, I would swap a different injector wire (on the pigtail) to the #6 injector wire (on the upper harness). Whatever injector that would go to #6 would fire correctly. So I know that the injectors themselves are fine. I am suspecting the wiring harnesses (upper/lower) but the continuity test would say otherwise. We also do not get any fault codes except for the EBP occasionally (waiting for a new one). I am lost on what to test or look at next.
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I have now replaced hpop, injectors, cups, gpr, batteries, uvch on both sides, icp and ipr on my 2002 F550 and it still has a long crank to start.
It has been driven about 1,000 miles since then and no change. I have no codes except buzz test produced a high to low 1272 1274 1276 1278 one time. Cannot get that to happen again.
It is taking 4 seconds of cranking to start consistently hot or cold. It always starts but cranks for what seems like too long compared to my other 7.3s. I have included a screenshot of the data and am curious on what everyone's thoughts are as I am out of things to look at!
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I have a 2002 7.3L Screw 4x4. Will a 03/04 6.0L instrument cluster work in this truck? The 2 clusters appear identical. I put the 6.0 cluster in and the trans temp, and coolant temp gauge will not work. All the gauges sweep when it is powered on, but the coolant and trans temp lay flat, and the check gauge light is on. All other gauges and functions work. When I put my other cluster in, all gauges work fine. Is there a difference in the VSM, PCM, or the SCP communication?
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I just finished a cab swap and I'm having a little trouble. Here's a link to what I've done : [URL] ....
KOEO the WTS light, battery light, SES light all stay on and no power to fuel pump. No communication with PCM (using AE). All fuses are good, but no power to PCM fuse (#22). When I apply 12v to #22, the truck will start and idle - but poorly because I still don't think fuel pump comes on. The idiot lights all stay the same.
I did get to pull codes while it was running and got stuff like IAT circuit high (its not plugged in), fuel pump relay short to batttery, and a few other short to battery things (park assist stuff IIRC). I thought that might have something to do with the redneck idea to boost the fuse with an external power source?
Just thinking while typing, I don't have 3rd brake light hooked up yet (just thought of that, I'll hook it up first) and bed/bumper are not installed, so no tail lights or park assist stuff is hooked up. I'm also not using overhead computer, so it's not plugged in.
My next step is to go back through all of the connectors and make sure something isn't 1/2 way plugged in or possibly plugged into the wrong place(s).
Looking thru the wiring diagrams is not a strong subject for me, but I was trying to figure out how power gets to the fuse and how PCM relay works (does it complete circuit to ground to energize the coil?).
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My issue I'm having - 2002 F350 7.3L has an 8 inch bds lift with 37/13.50 tires. I realize these tires are big but... while driving 100kms/hr or 60 miles per hour and I hit the gas the truck barely wants to move (without pulling a load). Thought maybe a turbo but I have no mechanical skills so here I am!
2nd issue, there's a bullydog chip in that truck when I bought it. he said he always ran it on extreme. I found it puffs way to much black when on extreme and on performance it seems a lot better so that's where I have it?.
3rd issue, the transmission gauge on the dash goes into red when climbing up hills ( I live in the rocky mountains so a lot!) but the bullydog chip says the tranny is only at its hottest 140C? I don't believe that's to hot but I do believe my truck is derating a little while the tranny gauge on the dash is in the red? is there any quick fixes out there for these issues.
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I have a 02 f350 7.3 with 296,000k its been running ruff lately with a serious loss in power. The truck sounds good at idle starts up fine but when im on the throttle under load it almost crackles and sometimes bucks. I thought its was injectors replaced them all with stock ford remains but didn't fix the problem. I have AE and it passes a buzz test but i did a KOER test today and it started what seemed like a misfire during the test my ICP went to 2400-2500 and my IPR was at 38%. I have already put a new hpop in a couple month back along with new hpop lines do to a burst, ICP sensor, and i rebuilt the IPR valve. Not sure if this is a problem with fuel or the hpop I have also cleaned the screens in the tank and replaced the fuel pump which were pretty bad....
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