Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 - Battery Light Comes On / Voltage Does Not Drop
Apr 9, 2017
Bit of a confusing one as of late. Doesn't happen every time I drive, maybe 50% of the time. When I start the truck up, torque pro reads voltage at 13.9-14.1 consistent. After 30 minutes it usually drops to around 13.7/13.8. Sometimes, battery light comes on, voltage doesn't drop. I can drive the truck, park it, turn it off, restart, no side effects.
I notice if I stop, turn off the truck, and restart it, torq pro will begin to read a voltage of 12.8.13.0. Sometimes it won't budge for an hour, sometimes it climbs right back up to 13.8, sometimes the battery light goes off, sometimes it stays on.
Alternator was replaced a month ago, both batteries replaced a week ago, all terminals cleaned and secured at the time of replacement. Truck behaves perfectly normal, I'm almost at the point of putting a piece of tape over the light and ignoring it, but was curious before I go that route.
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My Battery light came on on my dash and my scangauge 2 was reading 11.5/11.4 volts yesterday afternoon, I ran for codes on my obd-2 and P0528 came up. I picked up one new battery and put that in to see if that would bring my voltage up at all. Today it was reading 11.3/11.2 volts. From what I've gathered the P0528 is most likely the fan clutch or the harness connecting the fan clutch to the PCM.
I've seen the water pump replacement write up that shows how to pull the fan assembly. My questions are - can the fan clutch be replaced without draining/pull the radiator? or is it better off to just do the coolant flush and pull the radiator. And would the fan clutch/harness issue drop the voltage or would that just be two bad batteries?
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The brief information:
1. Stuck/non moving in traffic on the freeway for roughly 1 1/2. During that time the AC was running, but once I noticed my "battery light" on the dash turn on, I turned everything off.
2. Since then while on my way home from work the voltage meter only showed barely 12 volts at full throttle.
3. I charged my battteries, and started it up today to go into work. While going to work the voltage meter showed 14 at its high point, but shortly there after it dropped back down to 12. At which time the battery light came back on.
New battery or alternator?
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I do run a small battery maintainer during the winter months plugged into a three way with the block heater. Alright after sitting out side for approx 9-10 hrs in 22 degree weather I did these checks. Battery voltages at 12.55V and 12.6V on batteries.
Voltage coming into for was also 12.5V. When glow plugs activated I am getting 11V on the other side of the gpr. After cycling glow plugs battery voltages drop to 9.6V during cranking and as soon as she starts back to 12.5V.
Do these numbers sounds right? In my opinion isn't the drop to 9.6V during cranking a little low or is that the normal?
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So when its cold and im talking below 55 degrees, and the truck hadn't been started that day, it will turn over 3 or 4 times before the voltmeter takes a dive down to 10 volts or so and doesn't start. The voltage will keep falling if cranking continues. I took the batteries out and had them tested. They are both above the rated cca. So im thinking it could be the starter windings?
I did replace an injector recently so all the cranking to get it going again may have ruined the starter? But when I hook up the battery charger and jump the truck it starts. And after it has been started it will continue to start easily the rest of the day.
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2000 Ford 7.3 E450 120,000 miles...
I have changed the CPS twice
I have checked the resistance of the injectors at the IDM connector with a volt meter and the harness reports back good.
The truck will run with ether for a few seconds
I have changed the fuel filter.
The fuel bowl fills quickly
I have unplugged the ICP.
The truck is showing low voltage on the gauge with a good battery. Around 10v
I have connected my 200amp car starter and I never see over 10v. I plan to check the grounds, but I am at a loss.
Everything is difficult because this is a van body so space is limited. I have also plugged in the block heater for an hour and that hasn't made any difference. Where can I get the best price on an AE scanner.
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Batteries are a year old. Drove to work. Now won't turn over even with a diesel truck jumping. Voltage above 12 and slowly drops when cranking.
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2003 F-350 - 7.3. With the key in the on position there is zero voltage to the fuel pump. Fuel pump fuse is good. I traced the red with black tracer wire from the pump up through the firewall and to the safety inertia switch. The switch has continuity so it's OK. Then from the safety switch I traced the green with yellow tracer wire to a fuse block plug connector. Then I checked continuity from that connector out to the #40 fuel pump fuse and it's open.
So I then i checked from the fuel pump fuse to all the back connections on the back of the fuse block and there was no continuity to any of them. So I removed the back cover off the fuse block to expose any issues. I found two board mounted relays. Now, from the fuse I get continuity to one of the relay connections. So did Ford hide the fuel pump relay and make it non replaceable? Also if this is the pump relay then what circuit energizes it? I need to make sure before I replace the fuse block.
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My Volt gauge on the dash has started reading around 10V with the key on waiting on the GP's. Batteries read +/- 12.6V with a DVM in a static state, no key.
But, quickly as best as I could see the reading on the DS battery drop to around 10V with the key on, GP's cycling. Cranking drops down around 8Vish.
After starting the reading on the DS battery is back up to 10V. This lasts anywhere from 30 seconds to a few min. Then it jumps up to the expected 14.6V reading.
I cleaned up the battery terminals and clamps while doing my turbo,and all the connections are tight.
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I've read some treads on the temp gauge sending unit but I'm a little foggy on where to look for my problem. I just purchased a 2000 F250 7.3, temp gauge not working. It has a new sending unit. I read some threads about the voltage at the plug but I have no voltage on either side of the plug. The way I understand it red/white wire goes to the battery. Is there a fuse between them and which one is it? and if fuse is ok is there a cronic problem that someone might know of that I can look for?
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Battery light came on about two months ago it would flicker. So i had Auto zone check it out batteries were good just needed a charge. so i charged them no fix so i said alright ill do the Alternator did that and then beginning of this week it happened again so checked it went back got a replacement alternator since they said it tested bad. Put the new one on and didnt change anything. Check my batteries they were reading 10v each. I charged them and they wouldn't hold a charge. so i replacement both batteries.
So i have a new alternator and two new batteries light is still on. Contacted my tech (whose a friend) he said to check the wiring going to the alt he said both wires should read 12v on constant other when the key is turned on. Tested the constant it has 12v other reads 6-8v with key on.
He also said sometimes the wiring on the X pipe can short the alternator? i unhooked all the wiring from the Xpipe nothing changed per battery light being on or off. So what should i do.?
Also my dash lights don't work but that's been like that for awhile (bulbs are all good).. Forgot to mention sometimes the light goes off but seems to stay on 90% of the time.
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I have an odd issue, 2003 7.3L f250 ... My battery light flickers on and off, I had the alternator tested at a alt rebuild sale place here locally, I don't always trust the auto zone techs, also had the batteries tested at interstate batteries. both batteries good, alternator good.
I think my connector is bad on my alt, not the one that goes to the battery, output is 13.8 to 14.1 btw......there is another connector that is a PITA to get off. I think it is bad, I played with it and applied some dielectric grease had the light go out when I wiggled it.
Can just the connector be replaced?
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The past few weeks the dashboard warning light for my alternator/battery will occasionally light up while driving down the road. Whenever it does, my plug in voltage meter shows a healthy 14.x reading. It usually goes out after a few seconds, but will stay lit up for as much as thirty seconds. So other than voltage being too high or too low, what else will cause the dash trouble light to illuminate?
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Installed Tekonsha P3 on my 2000 F350 I used the recommend pig tail easy hookup when I press brake pedal no voltage at plug but when I move the manual lever I get voltage. I believe the stop light switch activates it. The fuses all check out. I did have a Banks engine brake installed by their people I don't know if makes a difference
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External LED hooked to GPR
I have gone through around 7 alternators in the past 18 months. I currently have a new NAPA alt and new interstate batteries. Today I noticed that my battery light is on again. I also noticed that my yellow squiggly Glow Plug inrush dash light was on at the same time. However, I do not believe that my GPR was active BECAUSE... I have an external red LED that lights up any time my GPR is active. When my GP dash light came on my external light was off. I had just driven 26 miles and my truck is warm and the outside temp is around 70 Fahrenheit.
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My battery light come on this morning. The volt meter is sitting right where it always has though. I noticed that the battery light is kind of pulsating with rpm and at idle its very very dim.
E99 F-250 PSD ....
Where should I start?
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In the last couple of days my battery light comes on after about 30 mins of steady driving. I have no starting issues as of late. Batteries have been tested under load and checked out okay. Alternator is a few months old. Other than the battery light coming on there no other
problems, yet. Is my alternator over charging? A couple of month ago my truck would shut off when I turned a/c or heater on in the mornings. My alternator was over charging. After I replaced it I had no more problems. Could any of this be related to the life time led bulbs that I'm using?
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Alternator locked up in a parking lot. Replaced it and had to replace pigtail due to a loose wire in the harness. Now battery light comes on intermittently. New alternator is doing fine producing anywhere from 13.9v to. 14.4v. No output voltage correlation to battery light at all. The belt is still in great shape so I don't suspect slipping. Fortunately I caught the old one locking up almost immediately and had recently replaced the belt. Output voltage looks great. Are there any fuses for alternator?
Only thing I can think of that I did...when splicing in the pigtail that connects to the alternator, I briefly grounded whatever wire in the pigtail is hot. Was just a split second, but enough to see a spark and maybe enough to blow a fuse? I've seen people reference an "under hood" fuse box, but I don't seem to have one. My truck is a 2002 CC with just over 100k on the clock.
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I have a 99 f350 7.3l 4x4 and my battery light flickers randomly. I have checked the alternator and both battery's. All brand new and seems to be ok. They only are getting a charge when the battery light is flickering. I put both new batteries in on Thursday and on Sunday I needed a jump at the store.
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Had a bad alternator, changed it, and now the battery lite stays on all the time..Changed the alternator again with a known good one, and the light is still on all the time..
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I have a 2002 f250 CC 4wd 7.3 and I have no power to my reverse light sockets. I am stumped, all my fuses are good, I don't think there's a relay so i haven't checked that. My neutral safety switch is good, I'm getting power to both the blue/pink and black/pink wire. What it could be, at first it was constantly blowing fuse 27 every time I put it in reverse but then it stopped blowing it obviously because they won't come on.
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