I have stock 02 F350 7.3 with 74,000 miles ... Today i looked down and noticed my RPM gauge sitting there at 0 ... It was working just fine yesterday. I figured before i go digging around looking for the issue id see what is causing it not to read ..
View 3 RepliesI have an 02 f350 7.3 power stroke...Yesterday I noticed the outside temp was reading wrong,it was jumping from 67 to 86 to 92 back to 67..Temp was prob around 90 with high humidity and my a/c was on..So I got to where I was going and when I restarted my truck to go home the fuel gauge dropped to empty(I just fueled the day before) and fuel light came on and outside temp still wrong on the overhead digital display...Are these two things related???
Stopped the truck restarted it and fuel reads correctly again....Went out today and fuel light back on and on empty...Outside temp wrong again,a/c is on .....I disconnected the batteries when I got home to "reset the system"if there is such thing, fuel gauge working but outside temp wrong..?? Where is the outside temp sensor ?could condensation be running onto the sensor and throwing off my temp gauge? Just strange that both these things happened at the same time......I don't think its a fuse or they wouldn't work at all. I should mention all the other gauges work correctly...
I have a mostly stock '02 F-250.
The other day I parked the truck and as I was walking away I could hear what sounded like the 4x4 clicking on and off. I wasn't sure. I figured I would continue to run the truck to get more symptoms and come up with a diagnosis.
Later, backing out of the driveway, I heard what sounded like a buzzing/grinding noise, like something was trying to engage. It quickly went away.
The next day, the 4x4 light came on as I merged onto the interstate. I pulled over, tried switching the ESOF switch to get it to turn off. I never heard 4x4 engage or "felt" it. Re-starting the truck got the light to turn off. It hasn't been on since.
Today the truck made more buzzing/grinding noises. When I tried turning on 4 high with the ESOF switch I got no response. It went into 4 low and the light came on.
I re-started the truck. Tried putting it into 4 high again and the light came on. When I put it into 4 low the light quit and wouldn't come back on.
I run with my hubs unlocked and they were unlocked at the time, FYI. Also, I have air coming out of the vents, so no vacuum issues. I actually disconnected the 4x4 vacuum lines because I don't use the automatic locking future anyways.
I did do some work with my truck and boat during the flood in Louisiana and I took her through really sketchy stuff. My guess is that the ESOF motor is shot, most likely from being submerged.
I have an 02 F350 7.3 ... I just installed my glowshift tripple gauge pillar set. I have an EGT, Boost and fuel pressure gauge ... I followed all the constructions on installing them. The boost is working just fine and the EGT was too, but after a while the needle started going back and forth and the red warning light what blinking and then it just sat at 0 with the warning light on and stay that way. My fuel pressure gauge is connected to a sensore i put in my fuel filter housing, my fuel pressure gayge right from the start stayed at 30 psi with the red warning light on and just stays there .... Also the buttons to change the color and set the peak on the EGT gauge are sticking for some reason and staying down and aren't letting me change the color ...
View 12 RepliesI have a 02 f350 4x4 6 SPD one of my transmission lines has went bad is there anywhere that sales them.
View 1 RepliesI have a 99 f350 7.3l 4x4 and my battery light flickers randomly. I have checked the alternator and both battery's. All brand new and seems to be ok. They only are getting a charge when the battery light is flickering. I put both new batteries in on Thursday and on Sunday I needed a jump at the store.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 F350 and over the past few nights the horn has started honking once randomly. It always only honks once but will do it several times a night (may be more that I don't hear). I'm thinking that this has something to do with the alarm maybe? I can't afford to take it to the shop at the moment (nor any moments in the foreseeable future, come to think of it) and am hoping that its something that I can fix myself?
I'm having other miscellaneous electrical type issues, but don't know it there are related at all. For example, the power locks don't work (they try to, but don't seem to have enough power), the overhead console that digitally displays the outside temp/mpg/etc. stopped working suddenly and the lighter/power plug outlet stopped working, but I was able to fix this by replacing the fuse.
My 2001 F350 7.3 dually diesel Automatic has been a pretty good truck but recently it has been dying. Engine just randomly shuts off without warning while Driving. Check engine light comes on sometimes. Some of the time it will restart if I cycle the key. Once its running again I can rev the engine up without a sputter but after a few hundred yards down the road it will die again. I noticed driving on the highway when it does it my truck will buck first, then...
If I leave it in drive with the key in the run position when it dies and I'm coasting down the highway the Tach starts jumping around like its trying to restart itself, all on its own. I don't have a scanner.
The last time it died I coasted into my driveway and it wouldn't restart, went back out there 30 minutes later and it fired right up. Its only 40 degrees here if that matters, not hot by any means.
Ok, so my 2002 f250 died on me last Tuesday out of the blue, pulled it home and found fuse 23 I think ECU power was blown. I removed my Hydra, and put a new fuse in it and all seemed well, then Friday evening on my way to dinner was driving along and truck shuts off like someone turned the key off. I replace the Crank sensor, even though I had put a new one in after the first time it died, which was last Tuesday, still would not start.
Pulled it home, went out Saturday morning to look at it and hit the key and it fired right off. At this point I don't really know where to look, I wiggled every wire I could find while it was running Saturday and no change, but it does seem to have a miss in it while it is idling...... I am not sure where to start looking....
I have a 99 f350 Lariat. I was wondering if there is such thing as a cabin air filter on these trucks my a/c is blowing and its cold just not blowing hard enough like it used to if there is not a cabin filter is there a way to clean the evap coil. I always figured youd have to after so long since you always got dirt and what not in the truck the coil should stop up after so long its got to happen but how hard would it be to clean it?
View 7 RepliesBasically my coolant temperature gauge either reads as the hottest it can be, or the coldest. It doesn't jump around a whole bunch, but it's always all the way to one end or the other. From what I've read there seems to be a lot of different temperature sensors, so I get a little confused with all of the abbreviations, but I'm fairly certain I checked the correct one, next to the thermostat housing.
Using a multimeter I checked the resistance of the sensor, and it was around 600 ohms about 30 minutes after it had been driven. I'm not sure if this is where it should be or not, but it was rising as the truck cooled off.
Anyway, I'm not sure if I just tested the sensor incorrectly or if there could be another issue. A friend of mine suggested that the thermostat may have gotten stuck or something, but it doesn't seem like the gauge would switch at all if that were the case. What I should check to try and fix this.
Recently my power windows stopped working...sort of. Here's what I mean: If the drivers door is closed none of the windows will go down. However, if I open the drivers door halfway or all the way I can roll up/down all the windows. If the windows are down and the drivers door is closed I can, almost always, roll up the drivers window, however the other windows in the truck will usually not roll up. Open the door halfway and up they go.
A couple of other things I have noticed. When I press the down button for the drivers door window, with the door closed, I can hear the relay, under the dash, kick on and the window will move about a millimeter down then stop. Additionally, the courtesy light on the drivers door comes on while the door is closed. I haven't checked if the other courtesy lights come on at the same time.
Hopefully my explanation is understandable. I would love to solve this issue. Getting tired of opening the door to roll down the windows. Plus when there's a fly in the truck and I'm driving I can't get it out.
My issue I'm having - 2002 F350 7.3L has an 8 inch bds lift with 37/13.50 tires. I realize these tires are big but... while driving 100kms/hr or 60 miles per hour and I hit the gas the truck barely wants to move (without pulling a load). Thought maybe a turbo but I have no mechanical skills so here I am!
2nd issue, there's a bullydog chip in that truck when I bought it. he said he always ran it on extreme. I found it puffs way to much black when on extreme and on performance it seems a lot better so that's where I have it?.
3rd issue, the transmission gauge on the dash goes into red when climbing up hills ( I live in the rocky mountains so a lot!) but the bullydog chip says the tranny is only at its hottest 140C? I don't believe that's to hot but I do believe my truck is derating a little while the tranny gauge on the dash is in the red? is there any quick fixes out there for these issues.
Cruise just stopped working. The fuses all check out ok. What would be the next simplest thing that I could check before turning the problem over to a mechanic?
View 14 RepliesWell a few days ago I pulled up to a gas station on my way to work for some coffee and since I leave for work before 6:30 AM my headlights were on. Well only the running lights were working. Well I shrug it off and later that night I come to the realization that both headlights weren't working. I tried the high beams and they do work. I also pulled both bulbs and both the filaments on each bulb seemed to be intact. What could cause this? I checked fuses 9 and 11 under the hood and they were both fine. I'm kinda at a loss right now.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2002 F350 4wd with the 7.3. I was driving the truck and all of a sudden it was running like crap. the engine light was on. after a minute or so the engine light goes off and the truck is running fine. then again starts running like crap. I am close to the house so I limp it home. runs like crap.... will barley climb small hills. engine light is on. get home turn it off... next day... starts up and runs great for 10 - 15 min. engine light comes back on... runs like crap.... my neighbor says "It's the crank position sensor" I replace it.... runs great for a month.... now it's doing the same thing......
View 9 RepliesI have a 2002 f350 dually with a 7.3 and 197k. At 186k it died while driving and I had it towed home. As soon as the tow truck dropped it the truck fired right up like nothing was wrong. Then it died again 2 days later. I replaced the cps, but the fix was replacing the icp and pigtail. Now it is doing the same thing again. It died on my wife while driving yesterday, i had it towed to the dealership I work at and it started and ran for about 2 hours with no issues.
I hooked up the factory IDS and had a diesel tech look at it with me. The oil pressure, injector circuit and injectors, and IPR all look good. The batteries were a little weak so i replaced both of them. I drove it home yesterday, about 10 miles, and drove it around town today. Then i tried to jump start my 96 bronco and after about 10 minutes of running it sort of hick uped then 5 minutes later it died and would not start. I let it set for 30 minutes and it started and died after about a minute.
2002 F350 7.3 intermittently wont start after I've shut it off, it runs fine but sometimes won't start when it's (warm)? Wait hour or more and it starts right up.
Is there something I can look for before I bring it to a mechanic?
Just to clarify I am a gal with little wrenching skills but I can look at videos and follow directions if it's not too involved.
2002 F 350 7.3 4x4
Aftermarket gauge will climb to 250 after around town driving of an hour or so or multiple trips within the hour. Not towing. 160,000 miles on odometer. Changed trans fluid at 40,000 mile intervals. Most recently about 1500 miles ago. Most recent change using Mark K's method. Was getting fluid from rear port when I changed fluid. Blew out oil cooler and there did not seem to be a blockage as flow was sufficient.
Still overheating according to autometer trans gauge in test port. No codes retrieved using auto-ingenuity also O/ D light is not flashing. Would like to run torque converter slip test using AE according to wooden things method but TC slip desired and transmission gear ratio is not available under that name in live data meter. AE just updated to most recent version.
I purchased a new tranny oil bypass and will install soon. Also purchased a new 6.0 cooler to replace stocker but am hesitant to install if tranny is failing because I am concerned that the new cooler will just get some blockage from a potentially failing transmission and I will be buying a new cooler along with a BTS rebuild.
I have a 2002 f350 dually with a 7.3 and 197k. At 186k it died while driving and I had it towed home. As soon as the tow truck dropped it the truck fired right up like nothing was wrong. Then it died again 2 days later. I replaced the cps, but the fix was replacing the icp and pigtail. Now it is doing the same thing again. It died on my wife while driving yesterday, i had it towed to the dealership I work at and it started and ran for about 2 hours with no issues.
I hooked up the factory IDS and had a diesel tech look at it with me. The oil pressure, injector circuit and injectors, and IPR all look good. The batteries were a little weak so i replaced both of them. I drove it home yesterday, about 10 miles, and drove it around town today. Then i tried to jump start my 96 bronco and after about 10 minutes of running it sort of hick uped then 5 minutes later it died and would not start. I let it set for 30 minutes and it started and died after about a minute.
I am working on my dads 06 F350. He had four dash lights go out, so we changed out the bulbs and put the dash back together. When we hooked the batteries back up all the gauges reset except the the boost gauge. The needle went way past 0 and bounced for about 2 seconds then it just stayed below 0. We have tried to reset it by unhooking the batteries and turning the ign. switch on and off several times. Always go back past 0 and stays there. It does work it just doesn't read correctly. I am pretty sure that the needle did not get turned on the shaft? Is there a way to reset it?
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