Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: A/C Clutch Goes On And Off When Start Up And Let Idle
May 11, 2017
Its freaking hot! Only getting about 65 degrees out of the vents at best. If I start up and let idle the a/c clutch goes on and off but not after i rev up the engine or drive a little ways . plenty of freon, and the air gap is tight with .020 and .021 feeler gauge. Should I still pull one of the shims? or is it something else? Last summer the truck was like a meat locker. I did have to add some freon about 6 weeks ago but seems to be holding ok...
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I've tried everything I can think of to get my cruise control working again to no avail. I have a late 99 with a 6 speed. So far I have checked all the fuses with a multimeter, I've checked continuity from the harness under the dash through the clockspring to the switches, truck does not start without the clutch pushed in so the neutral safety switch works, has the upgraded switch and harness off the master cylinder. the previous owner said the cruise was intermittent about a year after they did the harness and switch recall on it. is there a way to test the harness and switch? I got a 1800 mile round trip coming up in about a week and I am gonna have a sore foot if I cant figure this out.
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1999 7.3l 6spd standard 4x4. Just bought the truck 4 months ago knowing it had a problem that once warm occasionally would t start. Happened a few times every week or two. But wait 15 minutes and the truck would fire back up. Then it started happening more often throughout a day. And I would have to wait longer for it to cool to start it up.
Icp has been changed
Cam sensor
Pulled valve covers to check to see if there were any injector o rings failing. They were all good. Put it all back together.
Pulled the IPR and tore it apart cleaned it all out
Started driving it ran great for a week. Then today sitting at a light the truck died just as if I had turned the key off. Wouldn't start for 3 hours. The. Fired up. Took it to buddies show and started checking things out again. Both batteries load test great and fully charged. Alternator pumping out 13.5 and up.
Codes i have pulled are waste gate to high /low
I forget the number for that one. The second was P1211. Cps has been changed and ipr cleaned. Think that I should replace the ipr of this happens again?
I did get w code a few weeks ago about low voltage at module. this code doesn't appear anymore. Since I checked the plug ins all looks good. But the PCM wasn't mounted properly. So I fixed that up and checked battery connections. They were very good so I re did all of that.
Anyway. Back to the problem. After ipr clean. Drove as she should until sitting at a light a week later. Truck just quit. Would t start back up until cold. Any thoughts. New IPR? Oil in hpop within half inch from top. And I don't seem to have any oil leaks. Did oil change fuel and air filter. Not low on any fluids. I had a 1997 too and threw a bunch of cash at it like this one trying to find the issues.
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Here's the deal. 99 Powerstroke out new injectors and orings. Did orings twice to make sure i didn't damage it. New turbo, new utvc gasket, new ipr, new fuel pump, I new complete engine wire harness. I pulled the injectors and ran in another truck no problem. New injector cups compression was all in the 300-375 range. Any cold start smokes like hell. Goes away when driving after the first time of hitting boost. Spits and shudders for a few seconds until boosting. Every time I stop it starts smoking again at idle. No power loss not using oil. Can't get a grasp on this smoking issue. When cold start I kill millions of mosquitos in a one-mile radius.
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My 2003 7.3 f250 has trouble starting whenever the temperature is less than 65 degrees. If it is less than 50 degrees I have to plug it in for it to start. Once it starts it runs rough. I let it warm up and it still runs rough. Once I start down the road I'll get on it a bit and it takes off like something lets loose. It then runs geat for the rest of the day but does seem to still crank a little more than it should when I restart it through out the day.
The pickup has 152000k
List of repairs I have done to the truck:
-new gpr
-new glow plugs
-new uvch both sides
-new valve cover gaskets
-new blue cps
-new fuel filter
-new batteries everstart maxx 65n
The truck has an afe air intake, straight exhaust, and a super chips tuner set on mileage saving. It blows white smoke when first started but clears up pretty quick.
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I've developed a problem, usually when starting, that the truck will crank over, start and idle for a few seconds and then shut off. The few seconds it idles it doesn't get any throttle input. I'll crank it back over taking a little more than usual to get it started. When it does start it seems slightly sluggish but that quickly, like almost immediately goes away and the throttle is working again.
Oh, 2001, 7.3 stock w/200k
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Just replaced all hpop orings. Injectors loud after start up at idle. Guessing air in lines. How long do I need to drive before all air out of lines and everything back to normal?
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Well, long story is that I starting have problems with my 2000 F350 Dually 7.3 PSD about 6 months ago ( ~10K miles ago ). I have sunk almost 5K$ in mechanics and the problem is still present.
By troubleshoot, I do not mean try this, try this, as that has been what is happening. I mean making test measurements and diagnostics. I am fairly mechanically inclined, but I am no mechanic. Looking for primers on how the 7.3 PSD works.
Symptoms: After the truck sits 12 to 14 hours, it starts and idles fine ( ~ 700 RPM on the 'Dash Tach' ) just as it has always done. During the first 5 miles of driving it, the SES light comes on and it sputters, stalls, and vibrates as if a couple of the injectors are not firing. It then clears up and the SES light goes out, except that it idles at about 1200 RPM ( 'Dash Tach' ).
It runs fine like this the rest of the day, If I shut it down it will start right up and run fine, but it has the high idles. Only if it is shut down longer than 12 to 16 hours do the symptoms, other than the high idle, reappear. The high idle is constant. Also mpg have fallen ( 13 opposed to 16 ).
It does not seem to be related to ambient temperature, or the amount of warm-up idle. I have idled it for three hours on startup and it is fine, until I drive the first 5 miles or so.
Now, I have had three mechanics work on it and they have replaced: the ICP sensor ( 3 times ), the Fuel filter ( twice ), drained, flushed and refilled the HPOP, replaced both sides of the valve cover wiring harness, put in a new IDM, fuel heater, CPS sensor ( 3 times ), fuel pump in fuel tank, EBPV ( not sure what this is ), and the last straw was saying the injectors needed to be replaced ( or at least the O-rings, but while we are in there you might as well ... ).
I bought a cheap code reader and it says: P1316 & P1211. I believe these are the same codes since day 1.
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What EOT temp should the fan clutch kick on at? I've never heard it kick on until a recent trip. It seems to go on about 228 degrees EOT and keeps the EOT below about 232 degrees.
At slow speeds I've found that the trans will heat up to this temp too. I assume because the radiator cooler is at that temp an there's not enough air flow for the air cooler to cool it down much?
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Odd question, but the a/c clutch has always engaged randomly even though the a/c is not on and even now when the heat is on. Is this normal?
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Is this the sign of a bad fan clutch? I can spin it by hand,and it goes round and round.Can I drive it like this until I replace it? I am only driving 30 miles round trip at night, not towing and outside temperature is usually about 100 degrees.
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The fan clutch will come in and out rapidly when NOT in OD and pulling hills with the fifth-wheel attached. Replaced with a new aftermarket fan, then a new OE one. Then had the radiator pulled and all the bugs, etc. blown out. The condition has not changed at all. The original fan clutch was pretty sloppy. There are no codes, the trans fluid is nicely red, the engine does not overheat or even change temp when pulling hills. No check engine light ever. The truck is a 2001 F250 4 X 4 automatic extra cab with 7.3 engine without any modifications and runs perfect except for this. There are about 95k miles on odo. When we use overdrive on the flats, there is no issue.
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In my 99 with a zf6 it seems like when I push the clutch to the floor it's not disengaging all the way. It has a newer valair clutch in it maybe 15000 miles on it. It's really hard to get the truck in reverse or first from a stop. If the truck is stopped and it's in reverse or first with the clutch to the floor it will move in that gear. Is there a adjustment on the clutch? I'm thinking no since its hydraulic....
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Well, I think my clutch is falling apart. I am hearing an intermittent nasty noise coming from somewhere in the bell housing/oil pan area. It comes and goes, but seems to be more frequent lately. It sounds like a dryer that somebody threw a pair of sneakers and some rocks in; with a metallic clunking noise of something being "churned" around. As I said, sounds almost exactly like the dryer thing.
The clutch does not seem to be slipping, but I do occasionally have difficulty getting it into gear at a stop. I'm guessing that the clutch disc has thrown a hub spring, and its rattling around in the bell housing. Assuming I need a clutch; which I think I do, I need selecting one. I have no history on the clutch or flywheel, so I will assume that I need a new flywheel to match whatever clutch I get.
I can't get a stock replacement, due to the injectors/chip/etc.... I would estimate I am making about 350hp/700ft-lbs. I don't tow currently, but I may pull a car trailer in the future. I DO haul heavy loads in the bed (4,000lbs) on a regular basis. I also drive/shift aggressively, as well as shifting quickly. While I spend a decent amount of time on the highway, I also do a lot of stop and go stuck in traffic driving; so smooth engagement is important. So, no ceramic/ceramic in/out type clutches.
I do NOT want a South Bend. I don't want a super soft pedal. Also, the whole pedal-sticking-to-the-floor thing they mention is unacceptable. Personally, I think they should be ashamed of themselves for putting out a product with such an obvious unsafe design/engineering flaw, and then try to explain it away as "normal". Nope. They need to go back to the drawing board and fix that. As I said, it constitutes a serious safety hazard.
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I'm getting ready to swap my clutch and got to looking at the slave cylinder. I read somewhere that you have to rotate and twist it to get it out? Or something else? Also after reinstalling how do you get the slave plastic piece cut that holds the rod in? Or do you just push the clutch?
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What is failing. I have a 2000 F350 PSD with 116k miles. When I bought the truck last year, I noticed that the clutch pedal would squeak while it was coming off the floor. It doesn't happen when the engine is cold. I need to drive it about 30 min before it starts to happen. On longer trips, several hours, the squeaking is louder and the pedal gets very stiff. When I stop for fuel, I've come close to stalling when coming out of 1st gear. I can push the pedal to the floor, but on the way up, the pedal squeaks, and then once I reach a certain point, say 3-4 inches off the floor, the pedal looses all freeplay. The best way for me to describe it is the pedal travels up faster than it normally does when it's cold, and if I don't compensate with more throttle at that point, it will stall.
I've learned a lot by reading this forum for the past year, but I don't know the first thing about how to diagnose problems like this. I've taken it to 2 mechanics for test rides -- one thinks the clutch is fine and thinks the problem is the slave cylinder or a broken bushing in the pedal.
The other shop is also a small independent shop, but they specialize exclusively in Ford trucks, so I thought they would be more knowledgeable. But now I'm wondering if they could sense my ignorance and are taking advantage of the situation. They also took it for a drive, but they think the slave cylinder is fine and that the clutch needs to be replaced. I questioned him about the slave, and he pulled it to look at it, and asked me to push the pedal slowly while he was under the truck. I still had a little resistance and a faint squeak even in this situation. But he said the hydraulics are so simple that he felt we could rule that out. I can't remember exactly what he said, but I think he believes one of the springs in the clutch plate has failed. I just know they are suggesting a new clutch and they want to machine the flywheel to original specs.
I thought the leading symptom of a failing clutch was slippage under a load. So under strain, I would expect my engine to race occasionally, like I'm in neutral. But I've NEVER experienced anything remotely like this, even when driving hard in the hills pulling my travel trailer.
I know something is wrong, but based on my limited knowledge, I'm not sure what. It's getting a little harder for me to move the shifter into 1st and reverse, but once it's there it's fine. I've never experienced any racing or slippage in any gear. The one definite symptom I have is that squeaky pedal that when driven for a couple of hours, gets so stiff that it can cause near stall outs. With those symptoms, what do you think is going wrong?
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On 2500 mile trip, no A/C last 400 miles and we're cooking
Compressor clicking on/off about every 5 secs, clutch smell. Seems to be turning okay.
I brought some tools, including a full socket set.
Can I pull the clutch and remove shims in the campground? Looking for a condensed version of how?
Worst case, how do I replace the clutch- of I can find a dealer with one?
Pulley and clutch fixed, but cycling on and off...adding freon?
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So I have the luk full ceramic clutch now, this is my second one (about every year it needs replaced) and it's getting close to needing a new clutch again. Right now my 7.3 is sitting at 442hp and 864 TQ. Im Building a forged rod motor with the idea of getting 5-550 HP to the wheels out of it and hitting the 1000 TQ mark. What clutch will hold that and not chatter and try to knock my teeth out like my current clutch. The closer to a stock clutch engagement feel the better, I hate backing up or starting out with a load more than 10k (I have to start in low, or 4wd low to backup). Truck is a 01 crew cab, on 35's stock gears may be going to a 6" and 37's in the future but that's it.
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I am looking for a how to vid or resource on doing the job right. I purchased the complete replacement master cylinder from Napa. 2002 7.3 Powerstroke
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I just bought a 99 f250 super duty with 6 speed and it has clutch problem the clutch pedal goes about 1/3 of way down then drops to the floor and stays. I pulled slave cylinder and it has just as much resistance as a new one. my other thought was a spring internally in transmission. any other thoughts or do I just need to replace the clutch?
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I purchased a 2000 excursion with the 7.3 a couple of weeks ago. The guy said originally in the add that it need #2 and #8 injectors replaced. When I went and looked at it he had already replaced them and said the it still has no power and needed the remaining 6 replaced. I purchased it as it was a good deal thinking I should be able to get it fixed for worst case a set of injectors. BTW the engine has little to no blowby and starts easy and idles great.
The problem it it will not build any boost (has external boost gauge). Actually the gauge only shows vacuum. With the truck in park or neutral you can slowly rev the motor to 2500rpm and all seems fine but as soon as you break past 2500rpm it sound like it is missing and starts blowing white smoke. The smoke smells like when a diesel heater runs out of diesel. If you try and drive it it has NO power and will not move out of its own way and will eventually start like it is missing and blowing white smoke.
The previous owner replaced the following:
#2 injector
#8 injector
UVC gaskets
MAP Sensor
Wastegate solenoid sensor
The first thing I did was start looking at the no boost issue and pulled the turbo. I deleted the EBPV while i was there. Also the turbine wheel was in very bad shape so i replaced the turbine wheel, shaft, seals, bushings and installed a new compressor wheel 5+5 wheel off ebay. Reinstalled turbo and the symptoms are the same. I also replaced the clamps on the spider with Tbolt clamps instead of the worm gear styles and it psi tested all piping and intercooler to 30psi with no leaks. Also the up pipes have already been replaced with the bellowed style so there are no leaks and it has a 4" straight exhaust.
I have since ordered oring kits for the injectors and also ordered the fittings for the fuel bowl so i can check fuel pressure. it has a new air filter, oil filter, oil and fuel filter installed.
The ICP sensor has oil in the plug but if i unplug it the symptoms are still there.
I have also used a scanner and the ICP pressure is approx 500psi at idle and the duty cycle is about 11% at idle. Also the HPOP looks to be new as it is very clean compared to the surrounding parts and i have checked the HPOP reservoir and it is full to withing 1/2" from the threads.
2000 Excursion
7.3
205000 miles
I am assuming that the injectors are original other than #2 and #8.
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