What EOT temp should the fan clutch kick on at? I've never heard it kick on until a recent trip. It seems to go on about 228 degrees EOT and keeps the EOT below about 232 degrees.
At slow speeds I've found that the trans will heat up to this temp too. I assume because the radiator cooler is at that temp an there's not enough air flow for the air cooler to cool it down much?
I have long been having troubles with white smoke at startup, even when its 90 degrees out. Long story short I've got new glowplugs, GPR, UVCHs, valve cover gaskets, injectors, turbo, valve seals, valve springs, and HPOP all within the last year. Most of those parts were needed, some maybe not so much. After installing injectors things started getting worse, whether they're related or not I'm not sure yet. I pulled passenger side valve cover off again in an attempt to figure something out and heard this coming out of the intake spider.
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The strange thing is it goes away when it warms up. I should also note the reason I started with the passenger side is because I did a compression test and this side had the lowest readings, with #5 being 270 psi. I disconnected each injector one at a time on the passenger side to see if it made a difference while running but didn't really notice a difference. Am I looking at a motor rebuild, or at the very least a head removal?
I have a 99 f350 Ford 7.3 service truck. It will crank and run but when it gets to 150 or 180 degrees it shuts off and will not crank back until it cools off. I have change the ECM I have change the IDM still same thing it runs till gets hot and then it cuts off. I have changed IPR valve IPC sensor .check the high pressure oil pressure it is around 800 900 at an idle it is around that pressure but when first starts up it is higher once it starts and runs it idles around that pressure 800 900 psi....
I have hooked up my scanner and it shows around 150 degrees oil temperature it shuts off . The high pressure oil stays the same as it was when you first crank it the low pressure crankcase oil is 60 psi ... Once the oil temperature reaches around 150 ~160 degrees the engine will shut off . Once you let it sit overnight or for several hours it might crank up ....
Just got my truck back (450) from rebuild on tranny. Hooked up my new obd link mx , and was out running the truck for a while. Started running it pretty hard to see what the gauges would do. Noticed the engine coolant was getting up pretty high, usually around 240-250, and then hit 270!!! My temp gauge on the truck wasn't budging , just stayed between hot and cold. Is this normal?? Seemed pretty hot to me but if i just took it easy on the throttle it would average around 230. If i stop and idle it quickly goes down to 206. Look at oil temp and tranny temp also engine coolant temp is bottom middle.
View 6 RepliesJust purchased a 2003 F-350 Super Duty Lariat Crew Cab w/ 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel w/ 192,000 miles. This truck will be used exclusively for pulling my 36', 8,000lbs travel trailer. I have a 2011 F-150 Ecoboost as my daily driver. The 2003 was purchased from a used dealer in Texas and is in immaculate condition and was definitely not a work truck. It was a 55 degree day and the truck was inside their building when I picked it up. No starting issues then and drove it the 3 hour 70-75mph trip home, with 2 stops on the way (wife was along) with no issues. Started quick and ran like a champ. The next morning it was 32 degrees outside and it would not start. I cycled the key on & off several times prior to starting and still no start. Plugged the heater in and 1 hour later it fired up. I have noticed since that if the outdoor temperature is below 55 degrees, it will not start without being plugged in. When plugged in, it starts easy, no smoke, purrs like a tiger at idle and runs great. I Have started on a mental list of things to check.....here goes:
1. The dealer stated he just changed the oil & filter. Can't rely on this 100 percent so I plan to put new 15W40 oil and filter in. Oklahoma summers are pretty warm.
2. Check the FICM for 48 voltage output.
3. The glow plug indicator on the dash is working. The colder it is outside, the longer it stays on. If the indicator is working, is this an indicator that the glow plug relay is working? Anyway....plan to check this relay.
4. Pull one or two glow plugs, ones easy to get to, to verify their function.
5. Check both batteries....I assume they will have to be disconnected from one another before doing this.
I have been working on gasoline engines for 40 years and no stranger to busted knuckles & dirty fingernails.....just new to diesel engines. I am impressed however with their construction and method of operating.
Odd question, but the a/c clutch has always engaged randomly even though the a/c is not on and even now when the heat is on. Is this normal?
View 7 RepliesIs this the sign of a bad fan clutch? I can spin it by hand,and it goes round and round.Can I drive it like this until I replace it? I am only driving 30 miles round trip at night, not towing and outside temperature is usually about 100 degrees.
View 6 RepliesIts freaking hot! Only getting about 65 degrees out of the vents at best. If I start up and let idle the a/c clutch goes on and off but not after i rev up the engine or drive a little ways . plenty of freon, and the air gap is tight with .020 and .021 feeler gauge. Should I still pull one of the shims? or is it something else? Last summer the truck was like a meat locker. I did have to add some freon about 6 weeks ago but seems to be holding ok...
View 14 RepliesThe fan clutch will come in and out rapidly when NOT in OD and pulling hills with the fifth-wheel attached. Replaced with a new aftermarket fan, then a new OE one. Then had the radiator pulled and all the bugs, etc. blown out. The condition has not changed at all. The original fan clutch was pretty sloppy. There are no codes, the trans fluid is nicely red, the engine does not overheat or even change temp when pulling hills. No check engine light ever. The truck is a 2001 F250 4 X 4 automatic extra cab with 7.3 engine without any modifications and runs perfect except for this. There are about 95k miles on odo. When we use overdrive on the flats, there is no issue.
View 12 RepliesIn my 99 with a zf6 it seems like when I push the clutch to the floor it's not disengaging all the way. It has a newer valair clutch in it maybe 15000 miles on it. It's really hard to get the truck in reverse or first from a stop. If the truck is stopped and it's in reverse or first with the clutch to the floor it will move in that gear. Is there a adjustment on the clutch? I'm thinking no since its hydraulic....
View 14 RepliesWell, I think my clutch is falling apart. I am hearing an intermittent nasty noise coming from somewhere in the bell housing/oil pan area. It comes and goes, but seems to be more frequent lately. It sounds like a dryer that somebody threw a pair of sneakers and some rocks in; with a metallic clunking noise of something being "churned" around. As I said, sounds almost exactly like the dryer thing.
The clutch does not seem to be slipping, but I do occasionally have difficulty getting it into gear at a stop. I'm guessing that the clutch disc has thrown a hub spring, and its rattling around in the bell housing. Assuming I need a clutch; which I think I do, I need selecting one. I have no history on the clutch or flywheel, so I will assume that I need a new flywheel to match whatever clutch I get.
I can't get a stock replacement, due to the injectors/chip/etc.... I would estimate I am making about 350hp/700ft-lbs. I don't tow currently, but I may pull a car trailer in the future. I DO haul heavy loads in the bed (4,000lbs) on a regular basis. I also drive/shift aggressively, as well as shifting quickly. While I spend a decent amount of time on the highway, I also do a lot of stop and go stuck in traffic driving; so smooth engagement is important. So, no ceramic/ceramic in/out type clutches.
I do NOT want a South Bend. I don't want a super soft pedal. Also, the whole pedal-sticking-to-the-floor thing they mention is unacceptable. Personally, I think they should be ashamed of themselves for putting out a product with such an obvious unsafe design/engineering flaw, and then try to explain it away as "normal". Nope. They need to go back to the drawing board and fix that. As I said, it constitutes a serious safety hazard.
I'm getting ready to swap my clutch and got to looking at the slave cylinder. I read somewhere that you have to rotate and twist it to get it out? Or something else? Also after reinstalling how do you get the slave plastic piece cut that holds the rod in? Or do you just push the clutch?
View 4 RepliesWhat is failing. I have a 2000 F350 PSD with 116k miles. When I bought the truck last year, I noticed that the clutch pedal would squeak while it was coming off the floor. It doesn't happen when the engine is cold. I need to drive it about 30 min before it starts to happen. On longer trips, several hours, the squeaking is louder and the pedal gets very stiff. When I stop for fuel, I've come close to stalling when coming out of 1st gear. I can push the pedal to the floor, but on the way up, the pedal squeaks, and then once I reach a certain point, say 3-4 inches off the floor, the pedal looses all freeplay. The best way for me to describe it is the pedal travels up faster than it normally does when it's cold, and if I don't compensate with more throttle at that point, it will stall.
I've learned a lot by reading this forum for the past year, but I don't know the first thing about how to diagnose problems like this. I've taken it to 2 mechanics for test rides -- one thinks the clutch is fine and thinks the problem is the slave cylinder or a broken bushing in the pedal.
The other shop is also a small independent shop, but they specialize exclusively in Ford trucks, so I thought they would be more knowledgeable. But now I'm wondering if they could sense my ignorance and are taking advantage of the situation. They also took it for a drive, but they think the slave cylinder is fine and that the clutch needs to be replaced. I questioned him about the slave, and he pulled it to look at it, and asked me to push the pedal slowly while he was under the truck. I still had a little resistance and a faint squeak even in this situation. But he said the hydraulics are so simple that he felt we could rule that out. I can't remember exactly what he said, but I think he believes one of the springs in the clutch plate has failed. I just know they are suggesting a new clutch and they want to machine the flywheel to original specs.
I thought the leading symptom of a failing clutch was slippage under a load. So under strain, I would expect my engine to race occasionally, like I'm in neutral. But I've NEVER experienced anything remotely like this, even when driving hard in the hills pulling my travel trailer.
I know something is wrong, but based on my limited knowledge, I'm not sure what. It's getting a little harder for me to move the shifter into 1st and reverse, but once it's there it's fine. I've never experienced any racing or slippage in any gear. The one definite symptom I have is that squeaky pedal that when driven for a couple of hours, gets so stiff that it can cause near stall outs. With those symptoms, what do you think is going wrong?
On 2500 mile trip, no A/C last 400 miles and we're cooking
Compressor clicking on/off about every 5 secs, clutch smell. Seems to be turning okay.
I brought some tools, including a full socket set.
Can I pull the clutch and remove shims in the campground? Looking for a condensed version of how?
Worst case, how do I replace the clutch- of I can find a dealer with one?
Pulley and clutch fixed, but cycling on and off...adding freon?
So I have the luk full ceramic clutch now, this is my second one (about every year it needs replaced) and it's getting close to needing a new clutch again. Right now my 7.3 is sitting at 442hp and 864 TQ. Im Building a forged rod motor with the idea of getting 5-550 HP to the wheels out of it and hitting the 1000 TQ mark. What clutch will hold that and not chatter and try to knock my teeth out like my current clutch. The closer to a stock clutch engagement feel the better, I hate backing up or starting out with a load more than 10k (I have to start in low, or 4wd low to backup). Truck is a 01 crew cab, on 35's stock gears may be going to a 6" and 37's in the future but that's it.
View 5 RepliesI am looking for a how to vid or resource on doing the job right. I purchased the complete replacement master cylinder from Napa. 2002 7.3 Powerstroke
View 3 RepliesI've tried everything I can think of to get my cruise control working again to no avail. I have a late 99 with a 6 speed. So far I have checked all the fuses with a multimeter, I've checked continuity from the harness under the dash through the clockspring to the switches, truck does not start without the clutch pushed in so the neutral safety switch works, has the upgraded switch and harness off the master cylinder. the previous owner said the cruise was intermittent about a year after they did the harness and switch recall on it. is there a way to test the harness and switch? I got a 1800 mile round trip coming up in about a week and I am gonna have a sore foot if I cant figure this out.
View 11 RepliesI just bought a 99 f250 super duty with 6 speed and it has clutch problem the clutch pedal goes about 1/3 of way down then drops to the floor and stays. I pulled slave cylinder and it has just as much resistance as a new one. my other thought was a spring internally in transmission. any other thoughts or do I just need to replace the clutch?
View 2 RepliesHaving issue with heat only working when the temp is at 90? I turn it down one click 85 and it goes cold?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 6.0 and I got a scan gauge recently to monitor the fan speed rpm's.
When the engine is running at 2500 rpms the fan speed is only at around 350-400 rpm's.
I did have a code for IAT 2 circuit high I think I read that the egr is disabled when the iat 2 sensor is getting more than 4.8 volts.
Can a bad iat 2 sensor, egr valve or icp sensor cause the fan not to function properly?
My F250 Will not start once the oil temp reaches about 117 degrees. Once oil temp drops it fires up. In the morning it only crranks for a couple of seconds. What could this be? I am getting over 1300 PSI HPOP while cranking. FICM Volts 48.5. Just no hot start. What do you think it is and how much at the repair shop. I have the Torque App, IPR values are good to I think.
View 10 Replies