I have a 2003 6.0 and I got a scan gauge recently to monitor the fan speed rpm's.
When the engine is running at 2500 rpms the fan speed is only at around 350-400 rpm's.
I did have a code for IAT 2 circuit high I think I read that the egr is disabled when the iat 2 sensor is getting more than 4.8 volts.
Can a bad iat 2 sensor, egr valve or icp sensor cause the fan not to function properly?
I have a 1993 protege that was previously not having any issues. I recently had a mobile mechanic replace my axle after it broke. Since then I have had issues with the rpm's increasing but the speed staying the same or decreasing. This happens mostly uphill and especially when the vehicle is cold. Is there another reason this can occur besides a bad clutch?
View 17 RepliesSo I just purchased my first diesel a couple weeks ago (2003 f250 Lariat). I love it! However, I'm having concerns about my turbo whistle on it. At idle and while in higher RPMs is sounds ridiculously loud (even at 0 PSI in the boost). I've been doing my research on it and I know the 03's have the loudest sounding turbos because they have less vanes than the later models. I know without a video it's going to be hard to diagnose, but I am wondering if a loose boot would cause a turbo whining sound through the exhaust? I have yet to hear ANY other diesel in person that has a turbo whine as loud as mine.
View 14 RepliesWhile I'm cursing at highway speed everything is fine. But when u punch it it pass someone it's like I actually slow down, same from a red light. I've got a livewire programmer in it and this problem is somewhat new. It just seems to keep getting worse, I was going up a hill on the interstate this morning and at 2800 rpms I was actually slowing down. I'm not sure if the fuel pump is going out or if the transmission is slipping or what.
View 7 RepliesWhat's everyone's fan rpms at idle? Mine vary and lately I've experience a strange issue where fan immediately locks up and rages right after cold startup. Today it was running 2900 rpm. It settled to about 480-500 but I know I'm the past it's been like 300 or so at idle.
View 6 RepliesIt's a 2004 6.0 excursion with about 190,000 miles. At 185,000 I pulled the motor and did new oem head gaskets, Arp head studs, bulletproof egr cooler and oil cooler system, bulletproof 48v ficm, strictly diesel regulated return, and I've been running gear heads srl tune before and after the truck was rebuilt.
Recently the truck has been acting up at random times. While running the gear head srl tune, the truck will lose power, the boost gauge on my edge insight will get stuck along with Icp psi, the water in fuel light and glow plug light will come on, and then after a few seconds it will clear itself and run fine. Last night I was on a two lane road and putting my foot into it and the truck did the same thing where it loses power, but this time the truck actually died on me while I was cruising at 60.
Same lights were on but this time the cruise control light fluttered while the truck was in the midst of dying. I tried restarting it and it took two sets of cranking before it fired and stayed running. On the way home I babied it and the truck lost power and the Rpms dropped and only the glow plug light came on. Got home and ran codes and I got camshaft and crankshaft position sensor codes and I tuned it back to stock, drove it around, and the truck ran fine, but while on a stock tune I am getting a egr valve code.
I have a 2012 F-250 6.7L w/8K miles. I have been struggling with this issue for 6 mo. The engine feels like its missing at low RPM. I would equate it to the feeling of a bad coil pack in a gas engine. The boost indicator drops to 0 for a split second then recovers. The dealer says they can't find the issue but went ahead and replaced the turbo. After the turbo replacement It got worse. This is an intermittent problem with no codes.
View 14 RepliesMy Fan Clutch seems to come on quite often when its not needed. Mostly when towing. I don't have any live monitoring system on my 05 excursion. no codes. I did recently replaced svt sensor and radiator was found with a leak replaced that. still having that problem?
View 2 RepliesFan Clutch went out today 47,000 miles.
View 5 RepliesThe clutch in my ac compressor is not releasing causing it stay on all the time and not cycle and get hot and freeze up the system. Also pulley seems to be angled like it's not sitting straight. Can I just replace the clutch on the front? if so what's all involved. I need to do the entire compressor?
View 12 RepliesI'm hearing a plane type sound on my 2004 f-250 6.0 and i also noticed the temp gauge needle went up but still in normal range and then went back to the middle range when slowing down or parked. I had a combustion test done and a leak test was done and all passed. The reservoir tank had a leak and changed that before all the test were done. The mechanic did various run test and it didn't over heat but it did when i got it back. My guess is that the fan clutch is out but not sure. An AutoZone guy came out and looked at the fan clutch and asked me to turn it on and hit the gas and then shut it off. He noticed that the fan clutch kept turning fast and he said it's not supposed to do that.
View 8 Replies My Edge is reading "PO528: Fan Speed Sensor Circ No Signal". When I'm pulling a large 5th wheel up a 4% hill by the time I hit the top (if I don't slow down)warning beeps are gong off and my ECT is at 240. I can hear the fan come in at 215 and it stays in all the way up in temperature.
All the posts say c/o the fan clutch. While that may fix the fault signal, would it do anything for the temp situation. If the fan is locked in it seems like a lot of money just to clear the fault. Or......is the fan still slipping but sounding like it's working? This my be not related but I did notice that as the temp rises the AC starts not working. By the time I reach the top of the hill it is blowing hot. As we go down the other side and ECT comes down, it starts cooling.
At the first of summer I had typical A/C Clutch cycling not much cold air. Checked the Low Press side said it was low PSI took a Gamble that the pump was good and just filled it worked great. Lost All A/C the other day checked it out thought it may have small leak somewhere but clutch didn't cycle hardly at all Had a gut feeling it wasn't simple leak.
Well I just found a Hole in the condenser at the bottom Tube that runs across. So looking for new condenser. I also don't know what to do with recharging it and the ac oil in the system how much? maybe its safe to say most the oil was pumped out. Would standard procedure be to repair it then FLush cooling system to get to a baseline and then refill prescribed amount of oil and Freon
My new to me 2006 F-350 6.0L began having starting issue this week. I'll try to describe it as best I can. Not every time I start it, but about every 3rd or 4th time this happens.
- She will start to crank as if the batteries are weak.
- Very low starter rpm's. If I stop cranking, and immediately try again it will do the same.
- if I wait 30 seconds to a minute, she will go back to a high rpm crank and start up after 2-3 seconds.
I have Auto Ingenuity and a SCT tuner so I can data log PID's.
Just bought 2 new F-350 with 6.7s for a service truck and feed truck. I have a 2011 6.7 so pretty familiar with it. I noticed both these new trucks shift at a lot lower RPMs. At times if going from pasture to pasture I have noticed the tach at 900 rpm in 6th gear. My 2011 doesn't do that, it shifts at a higher rpm. Both of the trucks have been deleted, and I have a SCTx4 tuner in each truck and have both tuned to the lowest setting, Tow 40HP. Is this a fuel economy thing?
View 5 Replies06 6.0 fan clutch stuck in engaged position. So I changed the fan clutch it doesn't stay engaged anymore. comes on during startup and gives the appearance that the batteries are dying. Stays on for about 10 minutes when first driving then goes off. If I run ac it comes on at every light and it doesn't matter what engine coolant temp or oil temp and they are all within 6 degrees of each other. I'm thinking maybe the AC is a issue or bad sensor somewhere. No codes everything seems to be functioning. When I say comes on it's on high speed roaring.
View 14 RepliesI bought a 2006 F-350 4WD Lariat SRW with a little over 200,000 miles on it. The truck seems to run perfectly, except when pulling a load (9,000-10,000 lbs) down the interstate/highway. Sometimes, when pulling above 65-70 mph for an extended period of time (45 minutes to an hour) the truck will all of a sudden idle down and won't get above 2300-2500 RPMs (even if you put it in neutral and floor it). It's not enough to shut it down, but it won't let the truck accelerate as fast as normal. Killing the truck and cranking it back makes it go back to running normal for a little while, but the periods of it acting up get shorter after each killing and restarting. I took it to the Ford place while it was acting up, and they thought it was a turbo problem. They cleaned the turbo and said everything looked fine, but the same problem arose after leaving the shop. They've been stumped at 3 different Ford shops, but one said there's a 95% chance a new turbo would fix the problem. What might be wrong?
View 8 RepliesMe and the wife just now noticed this issue after about a week of owning this 6.0 f350 auto 4x4. Leaf spring front and rear. Long bed. Listing all this stuff because not sure if it matters.
Around 50mph if we drive normally about 1500rpm the truck seems to jerk a little as we climb in speed. If we get the truck into the 2000rpm range it goes away.
Not sure if it's suspension, transmission or engine. Any clue what it could be. ???
I get what I can only describe as a "missing" when Im on the interstate just cruising along with rpms below say around 1900. That seems to be when I have noticed it. It is not very frequent but often enough to not let me forget about it. Happens when I'm towing it seems more than when not. Seems the rpms have to be below 18-1900 and in 5th speed. You can just feel the truck ever so slightly missing like in the old days of points and distributor caps. No tunes
View 7 RepliesI literally just got this truck 1 week ago. '05 6.0 F250. I have read numerous other threads and have not found an answer. I will start from the beginning.
I was driving on the hwy and once the engine is hot and I am over 55mph the truck feels like it wants to stall. The rpms drop and come right back up. Its like a 'hiccup'. If it starts to act up and I pull over it remains at idle and not stall. Once i get back on the hwy IF I go over 55mph the truck will stall and I will not be able to start until cool.
After doing some reading through the forums I replaced the IPR on the HPOP.
I tested the high pressure oil system. I took off the valve covers and tested both the right and left side individually, with the IPR valve open and close; cannot find a leak.
I took the fitting off of the top of the HPOP and tested with air there as well. I only hear air out of the weep hole in the back behind the gear on the pump.
I took the oil pump off and charged the branch tube with air, no leaks.
I checked all the dummy plugs. They have been already replaced with the upgraded ones and the orings all looked good.
I took the upper half of the standpipes out - look good, orings looked good. I was unable to get the lower half of the standpipe out on the passenger side due to the air box and the driver side only the top half came out when unscrewed from the oil rail.
I put it all back together with 2 new batteries.
I started it, (started cold), drove it 25 miles and it stalled, let it cool down and it started. Drove it 20 more miles and I pulled into a parking lot and I shut it off, and it started right back up 3 times. When it shut it off on the highway I unplugged the ICP sensor and it did NOT start.
It runs fine until I go over 55mph then I am getting the same stall issue. I can drive it around under 50mph and have no issues. I drove it under 50mph and shut it off a total of 3 times and it started back up no problem. If I drive it over 55mph rpm gauge drops and then comes right back up and IF it stalls I cannot start until it cools. Once it stalls out, If I try to crank on it, my IPR is 84.8% IPC - 99-120.
I am using a Scanguage II at idle:
ICP - 18.5
IPR - 585
FMP - 47.5
My FICM Voltage stays between 12.5 - 13.0 while running.
So it looks like my lift pump (low pressure fuel pump and sending unit) is going. Multiple low fuel pressure warnings over last two days and hesitation at low RPMs. Not hearing pump run when I turn the key all the time but no issues starting. About 16,000 miles since last fuel filter change but picked up new filters today at dealer.
Asked about a fuel pump and he quoted PS401 and none available in Canada and had to inquire direct to Ford - 30 day wait on a part that will turn my truck into a brick if not replaced. Can't find a PS401 but I can get a PS 402 out if the USA in 5 days.
Any difference in these? Dealer is an idiot and can't even determine if there is a difference or too lazy to find out for me. I don't even know if I can prime the truck if I change filters at this point and this is a quick change job for me if I had the pump. Going over the system from back to front in the morning.
Don't ask about warranty. Just hit 160,000 KM on my truck.