Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Jerking Symptom Around 50 MPH If Drive Normally About 1500 RPMs
Apr 22, 2017
Me and the wife just now noticed this issue after about a week of owning this 6.0 f350 auto 4x4. Leaf spring front and rear. Long bed. Listing all this stuff because not sure if it matters.
Around 50mph if we drive normally about 1500rpm the truck seems to jerk a little as we climb in speed. If we get the truck into the 2000rpm range it goes away.
Not sure if it's suspension, transmission or engine. Any clue what it could be. ???
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,the symptom that I'm wondering about is that when the truck is cruising at different high speeds like 65 or 75 it starts to jerk/jolt, if I accelerate it goes away, or if I let off the accelerator.
Once I settle on a different cruising speed it does it again. There is no smoke out the exhaust pipe, it does not loses any power, I look at the RPM's and they don't move when the jerking/jolting starts. Truck runs fine except for this issue.
I do get the P0404 and P0405 codes which are for the EGR valve and the sensor. By the way **is there an EGR SENSOR** anywhere on this engine, I seen some posts where people refer to it as the EBP Sensor, is this correct? I cleaned the EGR valve, but it did not do anything to fix the issue. I'm thinking I damaged the valve when I cleaned it, but I would like to verify that this symptom could be the EGR valve before I buy a new one.
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So I have a 06 350 and I'm getting clunking from drive to reverse and now with drive too, I know my rear diff is on it's last days but I am wondering if that could cause the clunking and now my truck around 90km shakes likes crazy and same thing wana know if that's the diff. And if I was to fix diff myself would it not just be easier for me to just swap axles if I wanted to be cheap??
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So I changed my oil with T6 and archoil and immediate miss at around 1500rpm then it clears up. I can stomp on it after that and it's fine. I know this has happened to others. My last oil change was also T6 and archoil. 2005 F250, stock, atlas 40, 216,000 miles.
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So, I was on my way back home driving through the middle of nowhere Utah late at night, when I had an injector tip crack. I was able to identify which one and unplug it so I could get to Grand Junction, CO (about 350 miles away) where I have family. After a power nap I started calling parts stores and found an injector from Advanced Auto Parts (I couldn't find a motorcraft reman, but I was restricted for time). Installed it and all seemed good so I hit the road again. However, nothing changed. It still had the bad miss (rough idle, jerking/bucking when the torque converter locks up) just like when I had the injector unplugged.
The truck is an early 2004 6.0. It's the number 4 injector. I finally got home and hooked up my AE scanner to discover a #4 injector circuit low P0270 code and circuit contribution/balance fault P0272. It's definitely missing because disabling it has no effect. This could be a loose connector at the injector or FICM, because I can't afford another injector right now.
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I have a 2006 F250 King Ranch 6.0. At approx 45-50 mph when holding accelerator steady, there is a slight jerking like the engine is missing like the old gassers used to do. What could cause this? Have a ScangaugeII and doesn't show anything out of the ordinary!
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I've only owned a 6.0 for about 10 months now. I have a 2005 SCab FX4 with 125,000 miles on it. It has an Airaid cold air intake and MBRP exhaust without a muffler, everything else is stock. The stuttering/hesitation starts at about 1500 rpm, is worst at 1600rpm and seem so to go away at 2000rpm. It also seems to hesitate when I barely press the gas pedal while driving. Based on other fuel issues with other vehicles, I would assume this is a fuel problem, but am not well versed in the 6.0 engines. Fuel filters were said to be good by the dealership about 10,000 miles ago. EGR valve was replaced last week. I'm not blowing smoke of any color, even at WOT. I was thinking an injector may be the issue, but I show no other symptoms besides the hesitation/vibration. I don't feel any lack of power when I give it full throttle. I would like to know a definitive way to diagnose the problem without going to the stealership.
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I'm having a problem with my 6.0 back in September I started to notice a little miss with some black and white smock while accelerating so I took the truck to a power stroke specialist near my house to have it diagnosed they said my number 5 injector was starting to go bad so just this last week I finally got up enough money to get the injector changed I got the truck back yesterday from the mechanic. While driving I get a lot of shaking right around 1500 to 2000 rpms when I let off the accelerator it smooths out if I mash on it and keep the RPMs above 2000 it smooths out the truck still has a lot of power no check engine light has ever been on through this whole ordeal and there's a rough idle I guess the best way to describe the shacking would be if the truck was a standard shift and you were pulling a hill in to hi of a gear.
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Very weird thing happened on the way home from work. When I left work (not to full temp) at about 1500 rpm and 30 mph (had to be at 30mph--seemed to be the key) the whole truck felt like it was rolling across rumple strips (the ones one the shoulder of the road) all vitals were normal and it was gone once on the interstate and up to temp (I did gon on it to blow out anything that may have needed to be) it felt more like drive line but honestly can't say. 2006 F350 4X4 ....
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While I'm cursing at highway speed everything is fine. But when u punch it it pass someone it's like I actually slow down, same from a red light. I've got a livewire programmer in it and this problem is somewhat new. It just seems to keep getting worse, I was going up a hill on the interstate this morning and at 2800 rpms I was actually slowing down. I'm not sure if the fuel pump is going out or if the transmission is slipping or what.
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What's everyone's fan rpms at idle? Mine vary and lately I've experience a strange issue where fan immediately locks up and rages right after cold startup. Today it was running 2900 rpm. It settled to about 480-500 but I know I'm the past it's been like 300 or so at idle.
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It's a 2004 6.0 excursion with about 190,000 miles. At 185,000 I pulled the motor and did new oem head gaskets, Arp head studs, bulletproof egr cooler and oil cooler system, bulletproof 48v ficm, strictly diesel regulated return, and I've been running gear heads srl tune before and after the truck was rebuilt.
Recently the truck has been acting up at random times. While running the gear head srl tune, the truck will lose power, the boost gauge on my edge insight will get stuck along with Icp psi, the water in fuel light and glow plug light will come on, and then after a few seconds it will clear itself and run fine. Last night I was on a two lane road and putting my foot into it and the truck did the same thing where it loses power, but this time the truck actually died on me while I was cruising at 60.
Same lights were on but this time the cruise control light fluttered while the truck was in the midst of dying. I tried restarting it and it took two sets of cranking before it fired and stayed running. On the way home I babied it and the truck lost power and the Rpms dropped and only the glow plug light came on. Got home and ran codes and I got camshaft and crankshaft position sensor codes and I tuned it back to stock, drove it around, and the truck ran fine, but while on a stock tune I am getting a egr valve code.
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I have a 2012 F-250 6.7L w/8K miles. I have been struggling with this issue for 6 mo. The engine feels like its missing at low RPM. I would equate it to the feeling of a bad coil pack in a gas engine. The boost indicator drops to 0 for a split second then recovers. The dealer says they can't find the issue but went ahead and replaced the turbo. After the turbo replacement It got worse. This is an intermittent problem with no codes.
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I have a 2003 6.0 and I got a scan gauge recently to monitor the fan speed rpm's.
When the engine is running at 2500 rpms the fan speed is only at around 350-400 rpm's.
I did have a code for IAT 2 circuit high I think I read that the egr is disabled when the iat 2 sensor is getting more than 4.8 volts.
Can a bad iat 2 sensor, egr valve or icp sensor cause the fan not to function properly?
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My new to me 2006 F-350 6.0L began having starting issue this week. I'll try to describe it as best I can. Not every time I start it, but about every 3rd or 4th time this happens.
- She will start to crank as if the batteries are weak.
- Very low starter rpm's. If I stop cranking, and immediately try again it will do the same.
- if I wait 30 seconds to a minute, she will go back to a high rpm crank and start up after 2-3 seconds.
I have Auto Ingenuity and a SCT tuner so I can data log PID's.
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Just bought 2 new F-350 with 6.7s for a service truck and feed truck. I have a 2011 6.7 so pretty familiar with it. I noticed both these new trucks shift at a lot lower RPMs. At times if going from pasture to pasture I have noticed the tach at 900 rpm in 6th gear. My 2011 doesn't do that, it shifts at a higher rpm. Both of the trucks have been deleted, and I have a SCTx4 tuner in each truck and have both tuned to the lowest setting, Tow 40HP. Is this a fuel economy thing?
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I bought a 2006 F-350 4WD Lariat SRW with a little over 200,000 miles on it. The truck seems to run perfectly, except when pulling a load (9,000-10,000 lbs) down the interstate/highway. Sometimes, when pulling above 65-70 mph for an extended period of time (45 minutes to an hour) the truck will all of a sudden idle down and won't get above 2300-2500 RPMs (even if you put it in neutral and floor it). It's not enough to shut it down, but it won't let the truck accelerate as fast as normal. Killing the truck and cranking it back makes it go back to running normal for a little while, but the periods of it acting up get shorter after each killing and restarting. I took it to the Ford place while it was acting up, and they thought it was a turbo problem. They cleaned the turbo and said everything looked fine, but the same problem arose after leaving the shop. They've been stumped at 3 different Ford shops, but one said there's a 95% chance a new turbo would fix the problem. What might be wrong?
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I get what I can only describe as a "missing" when Im on the interstate just cruising along with rpms below say around 1900. That seems to be when I have noticed it. It is not very frequent but often enough to not let me forget about it. Happens when I'm towing it seems more than when not. Seems the rpms have to be below 18-1900 and in 5th speed. You can just feel the truck ever so slightly missing like in the old days of points and distributor caps. No tunes
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I literally just got this truck 1 week ago. '05 6.0 F250. I have read numerous other threads and have not found an answer. I will start from the beginning.
I was driving on the hwy and once the engine is hot and I am over 55mph the truck feels like it wants to stall. The rpms drop and come right back up. Its like a 'hiccup'. If it starts to act up and I pull over it remains at idle and not stall. Once i get back on the hwy IF I go over 55mph the truck will stall and I will not be able to start until cool.
After doing some reading through the forums I replaced the IPR on the HPOP.
I tested the high pressure oil system. I took off the valve covers and tested both the right and left side individually, with the IPR valve open and close; cannot find a leak.
I took the fitting off of the top of the HPOP and tested with air there as well. I only hear air out of the weep hole in the back behind the gear on the pump.
I took the oil pump off and charged the branch tube with air, no leaks.
I checked all the dummy plugs. They have been already replaced with the upgraded ones and the orings all looked good.
I took the upper half of the standpipes out - look good, orings looked good. I was unable to get the lower half of the standpipe out on the passenger side due to the air box and the driver side only the top half came out when unscrewed from the oil rail.
I put it all back together with 2 new batteries.
I started it, (started cold), drove it 25 miles and it stalled, let it cool down and it started. Drove it 20 more miles and I pulled into a parking lot and I shut it off, and it started right back up 3 times. When it shut it off on the highway I unplugged the ICP sensor and it did NOT start.
It runs fine until I go over 55mph then I am getting the same stall issue. I can drive it around under 50mph and have no issues. I drove it under 50mph and shut it off a total of 3 times and it started back up no problem. If I drive it over 55mph rpm gauge drops and then comes right back up and IF it stalls I cannot start until it cools. Once it stalls out, If I try to crank on it, my IPR is 84.8% IPC - 99-120.
I am using a Scanguage II at idle:
ICP - 18.5
IPR - 585
FMP - 47.5
My FICM Voltage stays between 12.5 - 13.0 while running.
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So it looks like my lift pump (low pressure fuel pump and sending unit) is going. Multiple low fuel pressure warnings over last two days and hesitation at low RPMs. Not hearing pump run when I turn the key all the time but no issues starting. About 16,000 miles since last fuel filter change but picked up new filters today at dealer.
Asked about a fuel pump and he quoted PS401 and none available in Canada and had to inquire direct to Ford - 30 day wait on a part that will turn my truck into a brick if not replaced. Can't find a PS401 but I can get a PS 402 out if the USA in 5 days.
Any difference in these? Dealer is an idiot and can't even determine if there is a difference or too lazy to find out for me. I don't even know if I can prime the truck if I change filters at this point and this is a quick change job for me if I had the pump. Going over the system from back to front in the morning.
Don't ask about warranty. Just hit 160,000 KM on my truck.
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[URL] ....
Ratchet buzz noise my truck makes. Is not present until motor warms up. Noise is not present as much at idle but when you accelerate upwards to 1800 RPMs it makes such an obnoxious buzzing noise its embarrassing. Noise seems to come from top center area of motor.....
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