I have a 2002 F350 7.3L w/superchips programmer, k+n cold air intake. Does NOT smoke a lot from tailpipe
Not running rough since I changed my oil to rotella 5w-40w synthetic.
Appears to have good amount of blow by coming from the oil fill when engine is warm.
Can Bad Injector O Ring(s) cause blow by and oil consumption?
I replaced the rings on all 8 injectors put in 8 new glow plugs and a relay. My truck is still putting out grey/ white smoke at start up. It goes away after about a minutes. Truck runs a little rough a first then smooths out. I know some smoke after doing a job like this is to be expected but I was thinking I t would go away by now. I've been running through my head what I might of done wrong but I can't think of anything.
Does it just need all new injectors and not just rings ?
2001 f250 7.3
Truck is a completely stock 2002. New injector o-rings, glow plugs, valve cover harness, and injector cups a year ago... all motorcraft parts. New batteries and starter in the last 6 months.
I've checked the GPR both at the relay and harness got power all the way to the valve cover harness on all 8. Injector buzz test sounds okay as well.
Had a stuck IPR issue a few moths ago that caused a CEL and died while running. Took apart and cleaned the IPR and CEL is gone truck runs great once started and has correct IPR pressures in all RPM ranges.
Truck runs great once it is started and is not sluggish until warm like when it was hard to start when cold with leaking injector o-rings.
My 1999 F-350 7.3 is leaking from the turbo pedestool o-rings, from what my mechanic tells me. I would like to do this myself as it does not seem overly hard. This is my first diesel truck and am not quit sure how to do it. Looking for instructions or pointers on the process? I am a decent mechanic, but just have no clue on diesel engines and hoping to learn.
View 7 RepliesI have a very small fuel leak in my 2001 F-250. I was going to just let it go until I needed to do other work (since I get 20mpg city and 25mpg highway), but I went to a "new" inspection guy, and he flunked me. So now I have to fix it. And for all I know, my mpg and fifteen other things will break when I try to fix this.
Today I spent 4 hours in the heat putting in two new o-rings on the water separator valve. But the truck still leaks fuel. Climbed up on top of motor while it was running and looked, but I don't see where the fuel is leaking out.
Online research suggests to me that the next most-likely culprit is a steel fuel line that wears through from vibration and chafing. Is that correct?
This truck is so eaten up with rust (came from salt belt) that I bought a LOT of fuel line stuff a year or so ago, so that when things started falling apart from rust, I would have the parts on hand.
Now I'm wondering whether I already have the part I'm likely to need.
So far, I have bought:
1. Dorman Fuel Supply and Return Lines
2. Riff Raff Diesel High Pressure Crossover (HPx)
3. Riff Raff Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover (FRx)
So my question is, am I likely to have something to replace the part that commonly leaks on these trucks due to vibration/wear/chafing ... or will I still need to buy another part?
I'm thinking that one of the two lines in item #1 above is the problem child...
While diagnosing a low power and misfire condition on my 04.5, I was measuring coil resistance at the injector connectors. Found 1,3,7 had open circuits for one of the solenoids. 3 bad injector coils and no codes, no contribution codes... Why?
Anyway, pulled it apart to find the spool valves of 1 and 3 came out with the oil log the small bolts that hold them to the bodies had broken off. #7 only 1 bolt had broken off and the other was there but loose.
I got this truck with no history, and Had a variety of issues, like a bad fuse box that caused a no start, massive amounts of water in the fuel, and it had sat for 6 months untouched before I got it. I took care of the previous problems search for my previous posts if interested.
So what caused the spool valve to get blown off the bodies? I'm not sure if these have been rebuilt or ever removed, truck has 135 k. Could it be the water in the fuel that seized the intensifier piston?
Fixed my 2000 7.3 F350 4x4 pedestal 0 ring leaks a month or 2 ago. Nothing on ground.
Ck'd my oil last couple days. Seems now 2 qts. low.
What might cause "oil use/burning"? Probably over about 1K miles or so.
I'm having an issue with massive oil consumption and no oil leaks on the ground! No clue where the oils going but I burned more than 2 gallons today in a few hours of driving exhaust smells awful but the truck is running fine.
View 14 RepliesAlrighty let me see if I can get everything. 01 6speed 450hp at rear wheels. Comp 910 valve springs, valve seals, 238-80% injectors, full RR, 38r turbo, napa air filter, Hydra with Gearhead tunes, 5"exhaust, 280k about 100k on rebuild. All mods done 40k ago. Now I have a horrible up pipe leak I assume is causing the low boost #'s I have to do another clutch so up pipes will be fixed when tranny is out this week. But I'm using 1-2 gallons of oil every 3k or so. I smell burning oil when I get out, mainly if I am getting on it then stop. I haven't pulled the fuel filter to see if its a injector o ring. (Tonight's project) but turbo sounds fine, I'm going check for shaft play tonight. What could be my loss of oil without it actually leaking on the ground?
View 14 Repliesim in the process of replacing the injector cups and i knew this would happen since the whole process went way to easy up until this part. I am using Clays remover kit and it will not remove the cup. I do it according to the book and it just keeps popping out of the cup when i try to remove
View 14 RepliesNow ive got a tick tick tick tick sound from the engine. The tick increases and decreases with rpm and is present at idle. If it were a gasser i would say a lifter, honestly it kinda reminds me of a sewing machine lol.
Whatever it is as long as its not serious and my engine is solid im ok w it, I bought this truck knowing I was going to have to put work into it, I just didn't know work was going to go fall one after the other week by week from the day I got it....the previous owner must really have neglected this thing....
Hard to hear it over the sound of the engine, but its there, and is slowly getting worse
[URL]
Although not certain, I *thought* I saw coolant run into the front drivers side injector hole when the injector was out and I leaned on the radiator hose. I had knowledge t pull them and changing the orings who were initially concerned then not concerned after looking closer.
Either I made a mistake in what I thought I saw on my first experience with injectors, or there really is a problem that I didn't know enough about to address at the time. So I opened this thread to get more info and stop hijacking 67speeda's thread, found here: [URL] ....
As per recommendations, I will check my coolant bottle for any fuel, oil, residue, etc. I am also going to reach out to my buddies and see if they saw a problem with coolant, too, or they realized it wasn't coolant and I didn't take note of it ...
It was a REALLY LONG day and my ability to concentrate had begun to slip quickly (health issues), so it's possible I missed something there. So IF I saw coolant going into that cylinder with the injector removed, how bad would that be? I thought it came from pretty high up and ran down where the injector sits..
So after hitting a pothole, it would seem like half the engine lost power, after some searching around, i found that i would most likely be the harness inside the valve cover that has lost connection.
Its the right side, so i would need to take of the turbo pipe, and probably something else to get to it.
Since i'm doing this job, what to check out along the way? I want my 7.3 to be as reliable as possible.
I will probably ask some questions along the way, it can be a challenge sometimes to own a car that not many mechanics are familiar with, but as i have read online, this should be a very straight forward fix.
Can the harness be upgraded so it doesn't happen again? Its an 02
Story starts when I was cruising down the freeway and the truck cut out, seemed like a CPS or Injector related issue - seemed like a whole cylinder bank cut out. Stopped truck on shoulder, she shuttered and died. Turned truck off and restarted, ran like a top for about 4 miles then did the same again. I restarted it again and drive it straight home, ran like it I usually did.
As soon as I arrived home I did a little research and learned to start with CPS. I replaced my grey CPS with a new, Ford grey CPS. Truck fired up, ran the same that it did before - not the best idle but at 302k I was content. Drove it for a few days and it did it again, hobbled the truck home, although it did do it a few times and the last time it did it was really hard to start.
I replaced the IDM through NAPA. She's a work truck so I wasn't going to splurge for a Swamp Unit, the NAPA one came with an 18-Month Warrenty. She started right up afterward, the smoothest idle I had ever felt and she ran great, except for an SES. I ran the code and it was an IDM code, ran a buzz test and it pulled injector #5 high/low error, but it buzzed (a bit quieter than the others).
Here's the weirdest part, when the motor is cold the SES is constant, but as it warms up it only shows under power and sometimes flashes off at certain RPMs (1700-1900 and 2100-2300) and turns off when engine braking (TC locked) returns at idle. NO engine lights with the old IDM. I've checked the wiring to the injector from the 42-pin to the outer connector. (.6-.7 ohms, what my meter reads without any loads) Injector (from outer connector) reads 3.2 ohms. UVCH is less then 2 months old (GP issues) injectors have less than 5k on them.
Why? New injector solenoid? Bad IDM? Is it possible my last one never fired #5 and it got stuck? Or did my old IDM fry #5? Also I'm going to keep driving it and maybe it'll clear up, there was one drive I took where it cleared up completely. I've done some extensive research on this an i'm stumped. With the new IDM the truck has run better then it ever has.
Would it be a good idea to change the injector hold down bolts when I do the injector o-rings? They have never been out at 333,000 miles.
Plan on doing glow plugs, injector wiring, valve cover gasket's, intercooler pipes and the dreaded oil cooler.
I have an 01 F-250 Powerstroke. It has been shaking terribly at around 1500 rpms and shutters while holding the brake and increasing engine speed. I took it to the dealer and they told me that my #1 injector is bad. I decided to check around a little bit. I found a diesel service dealer that has brand new injectors. (Not rebuilts). Anyway I would like to attempt to install this injector myself.
1. Which injector is #1? (I've done a lot of mechanic work but not a whole lot on engines.)
2. What do you do with the fuel and oil that get into the cylinder? Do you have to get it sucked out?
3. Anything else that is crucial? What do you have to torque the injector bolt to?
I just bought a 99 F350 with 240k miles on it and got it for a deal because it needed injectors. Ive done the same job to my 97 OBS powerstroke. The injectors were already pulled so I had them sent for rebuild, the problem is I cant tell which injector goes where. is there a trick to figuring out where each injector goes when I put it back together?
View 4 RepliesRebuilding my 7.3 and I'm in need of the removal and install tool for the injector sleeves/cups for the 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel.
I'll pay all shipping charges and a small fee if required. I hate purchasing a tool I'll never need again, rather better not need.
I have an '01 F-350 7.3 Turbo diesel. When the engine is cold it chatters quite a bit and after it warms up it still chatters a lot but not as bad. It starts right up every time, even on cold days. Doesn't have a miss and idles smoothly (except for the noise). Seems to run fine with plenty of power, just really noisy. It has an edge programmer on it with 5 settings- Stock, Mileage, Tow, Race, and Extreme. When it is set to stock, mileage or tow, it is pretty noisy but about the same on all 3 settings. When it is set to race or extreme, it sounds like the engine is about to fly apart but has really good power. I never run it in race or extreme because it sounds like it may be hurting the engine.
View 14 Replies1999 e350 has 130k and original injectors, had a minor power loss while driving that i determined was injector o ring needing replacement since the fuel bowl also had black colored fuel. installed and have been cranking for about 4 days now and am recharging batteries again. whenever i changed any injectors in the past I've refilled both sides of the oil rails although on this one I didn't. So wondering what to expect concerning the process of filling oil rails via hpop. Does have a hpx line...
View 14 RepliesI just replaced my injector cups a month or so ago and also injectors with some lower mile injectors. but now 3 weeks later still not getting any pressure at icp. I have dead headed pump got 3k plus but when i block off ether head i get no pressure. i have pulled injectors and checked for orings and they are fine...
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