I have a 2001 F-450 SD with 7.3. What the problems would for the blowing of fuse #3. The DLC fuse. I mean I know it goes to the cigarette lighter as well. but when not in use it still blows.
View 1 RepliesI had a problem with this issue a few months ago, was 45 minutes away from home, blew the fuse to the starter. Switched another one in, blew it too. Had it towed to a shop, they did some diagnostics, felt like it was a short in the starter, replaced it and all has been well (as far as that particular issue) until this morning. Got in it, turned the key it cranked for less than a second and stopped. I pull the fuse, sure enough, blown. Swap it with another, it blows.
I know I have a bare wire in the column, the OD light wire is chaffed, I fixed it before but it must be worn again because I can get it to light up depending on positioning of the shifter lever and as I recall, every time the fuse blows the steering wheel is cranked to the left.
i have a 99 f350 psd, my problem is i don't have normal; FONT-SIZE: 100%; COLOR: dark green; FONT-FAMILY: inherit">parking</NOBR> and instrument lights, it blows fuse number 8 as soon as i turn the switch on. i checked all the wiring on my tail lights and the trailer hookups. i even disconnected the wiring harness going my tail lights and trailer hookups and it still blows the switch. #8 fuse is trailer tow electronic brake, illumination, park lamps, trailer tow park lamp relay coil. it also blows #4 fuse which is trailer tow backup lamps, trailer tow park lamps.
View 14 RepliesUpon trying to start my 2003 f250, it keeps blowing the 15A "Transmission Range Sensor then to Starter Relay Coil" fuse. Initially the truck would still start if i did not use the aftermarket Viper keyless start. however, now it doesn't start at all and keeps blowing fuses. I contacted the guy that installed the alarm thinking it might be something on his end. He walked me through reconnecting the factory starter wires which would isolate the issue if it was something on his end. it's still blowing fuses. battery terminals are good and clean.
View 3 RepliesNeed to diagnose this before I start ripping wires:
Truck started blowing the # 8 fuse under the hood tonight (15 amp #8 - trailer tow electronic brake illumination, park lamps, trailer tow park lamp relay coil fuse) which also controls the dash board lights (can't see gauges at night) and the tail light lights (brakes lights work) are out too. Figure I have a short somewhere.
I have a 95 f-250 psd with factory remote keyless entry. about 3 weeks ago i had a fuse blow that powers the keyless entry module, speed control, and a number of other systems.
If I replaced the fuse it blew right away so i got my wiring diagrams out and started unplugging parts of the circuit and my last attempt was to unplug the keyless entry module. presto no blown fuse so i got a module from a junk yard fixed the problem and now it has happened again. same exact thing. unhook the module and no blown fuse. i took the first module apart and saw no burned parts and no visible damage but here i am blowing fuses with no door locks, dome light and a few other things.
The fuse that blows is fuse 8. I am a mechanic and have full access to anything I need. I have another module under warantee but I want to be sure that its not something other than the module causing problems.
I have an 03 6.0 F250. My truck started blowing fuse #45 and it would kill my gauges (fuel, oil, mph, rpm, temp, trans temp, and odometer) and I was just replacing the fuse and putting off the repair.
However, the most recent time my gauges blew, the fuse did not, and I put in a 20 amp fuse, in hopes that it would not blow so quickly, bad idea. So naturally, I ordered a new shift lever, in hopes that it would fix the gauges and I wouldn't have to deal with it anymore, but I think it was too late and something else needs to be replaced. What I could possibly have blown by having a larger fuse in there?
I just finished a cab swap and I'm having a little trouble. Here's a link to what I've done : [URL] ....
KOEO the WTS light, battery light, SES light all stay on and no power to fuel pump. No communication with PCM (using AE). All fuses are good, but no power to PCM fuse (#22). When I apply 12v to #22, the truck will start and idle - but poorly because I still don't think fuel pump comes on. The idiot lights all stay the same.
I did get to pull codes while it was running and got stuff like IAT circuit high (its not plugged in), fuel pump relay short to batttery, and a few other short to battery things (park assist stuff IIRC). I thought that might have something to do with the redneck idea to boost the fuse with an external power source?
Just thinking while typing, I don't have 3rd brake light hooked up yet (just thought of that, I'll hook it up first) and bed/bumper are not installed, so no tail lights or park assist stuff is hooked up. I'm also not using overhead computer, so it's not plugged in.
My next step is to go back through all of the connectors and make sure something isn't 1/2 way plugged in or possibly plugged into the wrong place(s).
Looking thru the wiring diagrams is not a strong subject for me, but I was trying to figure out how power gets to the fuse and how PCM relay works (does it complete circuit to ground to energize the coil?).
I have a 2003 F250 and dont have power at fuel pump, or fuse #30. I put power directly to fuel pump and it worked and truck fired right up.
View 13 RepliesOK I'm putting a plow on my truck. I am wondering if it's possible to add more circuits to the fuse box in some of those unused slots?
View 6 RepliesI purchased 2011 F250 King Ranch Edition about 3 months ago. I'm loving the truck and not had any issues until 3 weeks ago. I locked the truck as usual using the key Fob, and upon returning to the truck, I noticed the doors weren't locked. After some brief trouble shooting, I discovered the the fuse was blown that according to the manual controls just the power door locks. I thought it was strange that a new truck would be popping a fuse so I replaced it...a couple of days later it blew again. This time I was locking the truck with the door key pad. I took it to the dealership and they checked it over and said they replaced the fuse and cycled it numerous times but could not reproduce the problem. The told me that they even put a call in to the Ford engineers and they said check the key pad for water intrusion. The dealership told me they disassembled the key pad and found nothing wrong....lock and unlocked the door some more and the fuse would not blow. I picked the truck up four days ago and the fuse blew again last night. Everything else works...alarm sets and goes off if any of the doors are opened. The only thing that I can find that doesn't work when the fuse is blown is the remote start.
View 14 RepliesSo I have a 1999.5 F350 diesel and the fuse panel under the steering wheel is acting up. I was driving my truck home the other night and I lost power and my truck shut off. I have had a problem in the past with the #30- 30 amp fuse ( controls the PCM and glow plugs from my understanding) that is under the steering wheel, I replaced the fuse and everything started working normally again. Until the other night when my truck shut off, so I replaced the fuse the truck drove again for 20 feet died again, I was able to hold the #30 fuse and allow my truck to start up again but would eventually killed the PCM and shut off again and would not start up due to what I believe the fuse location shorting it out and killing the power to the PCM preventing me from starting it up again.
I had my truck towed home and charged the battery and it started up fine the next morning. If I push on the #30 fuse my truck the shorts out and kills the power, I do not know if this is normal? The fuse is sitting loose in the fuse holder is there anyway making it fit tighter to prevent it from being so loose? I have read every other post online about the problems and tried everything they have recommended but still can not figure out what was wrong with my truck. I disconnected the fuel filter heater, and also the wastegate solenoid to see if that would prevent the truck from shorting out if I pushed the fuse it did not work.
What the problem could be causing the #30 - 30 amp fuse to be shorting out preventing everything from working? Or how to test the fuse panel and all the relays?
So the other day my 20amp maxi fuse for my fuel pump decided to blow, put a new one in & everything has been going good since. Is it just a fluke or is this an indication my pump is going out? I inspected wires off the pump & connections for corrosion & that's good, fuel filter is also new about 2 months ago & I always run #1 diesel with a little additive in the winter.
View 1 RepliesMy friend and I were working on my truck and he was testing my AIH relay, as he was testing it the fuel pump was clicking on and off a few times over about 10 minutes. He explained that the current must be back feeding through the system and activating the pump. After testing the relay he determined that it non-functional / broken.
When we went to start it there was a strange buzzing from the fuse box area. After testing all of the fuses and then his code scanner not being able to connect to the truck we can only figure that the PCM is done.
The truck will turn over but not start. Any time the key is in the run position the buzzing noise is there unless you pull the PCM relay or the IDM relay. He says (I know very little about this stuff) that the IDM relay is trying to close but because the PCM is fried the IDM is not getting the signal to do so....?
So what now? Do I need a new PCM? He said something about it need to be reflashed to match the old one, is that right? Are all PCMs equal? What else should I know?
I completed the high idle mod on my '05 Excursion 6.0 a few months ago. The 12V source is the blue/white wire that up/right of the ODBII connector outlined in the high-idle mod how-to.
For some reason, every couple of weeks, the 10-amp mini fuse at #29 will blow. It will work well for several weeks - then randomly pop the fuse about once a month.
Not sure if maybe I should swap out the switch I'm using to toggle the high idle, or maybe if an increase in the fuse amperage is required...or something else?
My 2006 f-250 just started blowing the #22 fuse when i go over a bump! Where the wire harness is for this. I've checked all the harnesses I could locate that looked like they could be rubbing on something.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 f350 king ranch 4x4, I recently used 4 wheel drive and could not disengage it, it would go into 4 low but would not go back to 4 high or 2 wheel drive, I unplugged the actuator harness and applied 12 volts to the terminals and it disengaged, I reversed the power and it engages, the actuator seems to work properly, I then replaced the two relays located by themselves on the front fender driver side, when I try to install the 30 amp female fuse located in the outside fuse panel rear driver side, fuse #3 for 4x4 shift on the fly it blows immediately, it makes no difference if the harness is plugged into the actuator or not, if I remove the two relays then I can install the 30 amp fuse, but as soon as I try to install the relays it blows the fuse again..
View 6 RepliesBatteries charged, connection & cables checked. After turning ignition switch, gauges on dash jump around & starts clicking in fuse panel. Top left relay then clicking sound from beside steering column on right side next to trailer brake box. Been having electrical issues & something draining batteries...had absolutely no cold start this winter. No decent mechanics here other than to be ripped a new one @ local dealership.
View 1 RepliesI have a fleet of F250s and 350s through my business. I have recently been having problems with a f250 2015 6.7. It has approximately 110k miles and a new transmission was put it about 12,000 miles ago. Since then we haven't had a problem until now. Recently (2 days ago) it started blowing a fuse, #46 (transmission control moduler) and lighting the entire dashboard up like a Xmas tree.
Check engine light, maintenance required, hill descent, etc. However it is completely random when it does this. It has happened a total of 11 times in 2 days. 6 times in a row yesterday then didn't do it until late this evening 5 times in a row. It will get parked, turn it off, try turning it back on and the fuse is blown, replace it same thing... then will eventually start.
I am a mechanic and tow operator running a late 99 f350 7.3 6 speed cab and chassis wrecker. This truck has had a hard life and has been neglected for quite some time, and now has become my baby/headache. Truck starts great, idles nice, and will run great for about 5 minutes until it starts billowing white smoke that smells like fuel and loses all power. If you continue to drive it it will die. Sounds like it's dropping cylinders and will barely idle. If you stop for 5 minutes or so and let it idle it will smooth back out and will run great again for another minute or two, then right back to stumbling.
Using torque app, hpop pressure looks good when it's running well. Peaks at 3k, IPR maintaining 30-40% max. As soon as it stumbles you can see the hpop drop to 5-600 and the IPR will climb to 65%. Let it idea bit and they go back to normal, and stay good until it stumbles again.
Ive changed the fuel pump, ICP,rebuilt FPR, change fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the fuel tank (metal tank, no delamination, looks perfect inside). Pickup screen looked good. Cleaned the IPR, cleaned the hpop reservoir, there was no screen inside. Checked voltage at fuel pump, 11.78 across the pump with it running. Pulled valve covers, no noticeable leaks around injectors. Injectors have less than 5k miles. Remans with 100% larger tips.
To me it seems like the lpop is not keeping up with the hpop under load, starving it until you idle and let it catch up. Could it still be bad injector orings? Bad lpop? Something I'm not thinking of?
I have a 2001 f350 dually diesel, I was driving it with no problem and all of the Sudden it die when I was checking the problem I not that the fuse for the diesel pump was blown immediately I replaced it and as soon I turn the key on it blew it right away I fol the wires from the pump to the fuse box and there is no wires grounding so maybe I can get a little bit of info to find the source of the problem
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