Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F350 - Shift On Fly Fuse Keeps Blowing
Mar 30, 2016
I have a 2006 f350 king ranch 4x4, I recently used 4 wheel drive and could not disengage it, it would go into 4 low but would not go back to 4 high or 2 wheel drive, I unplugged the actuator harness and applied 12 volts to the terminals and it disengaged, I reversed the power and it engages, the actuator seems to work properly, I then replaced the two relays located by themselves on the front fender driver side, when I try to install the 30 amp female fuse located in the outside fuse panel rear driver side, fuse #3 for 4x4 shift on the fly it blows immediately, it makes no difference if the harness is plugged into the actuator or not, if I remove the two relays then I can install the 30 amp fuse, but as soon as I try to install the relays it blows the fuse again..
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My 2006 f-250 just started blowing the #22 fuse when i go over a bump! Where the wire harness is for this. I've checked all the harnesses I could locate that looked like they could be rubbing on something.
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I have a 2006 6.0l f350 crew cab that blows air hard every time I accelerate. Sounds like you're going 100mph with the hood unlatched. It blows real hard for a minute and goes away if I accelerate through it or let off.
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I purchased 2011 F250 King Ranch Edition about 3 months ago. I'm loving the truck and not had any issues until 3 weeks ago. I locked the truck as usual using the key Fob, and upon returning to the truck, I noticed the doors weren't locked. After some brief trouble shooting, I discovered the the fuse was blown that according to the manual controls just the power door locks. I thought it was strange that a new truck would be popping a fuse so I replaced it...a couple of days later it blew again. This time I was locking the truck with the door key pad. I took it to the dealership and they checked it over and said they replaced the fuse and cycled it numerous times but could not reproduce the problem. The told me that they even put a call in to the Ford engineers and they said check the key pad for water intrusion. The dealership told me they disassembled the key pad and found nothing wrong....lock and unlocked the door some more and the fuse would not blow. I picked the truck up four days ago and the fuse blew again last night. Everything else works...alarm sets and goes off if any of the doors are opened. The only thing that I can find that doesn't work when the fuse is blown is the remote start.
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I completed the high idle mod on my '05 Excursion 6.0 a few months ago. The 12V source is the blue/white wire that up/right of the ODBII connector outlined in the high-idle mod how-to.
For some reason, every couple of weeks, the 10-amp mini fuse at #29 will blow. It will work well for several weeks - then randomly pop the fuse about once a month.
Not sure if maybe I should swap out the switch I'm using to toggle the high idle, or maybe if an increase in the fuse amperage is required...or something else?
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I have a fleet of F250s and 350s through my business. I have recently been having problems with a f250 2015 6.7. It has approximately 110k miles and a new transmission was put it about 12,000 miles ago. Since then we haven't had a problem until now. Recently (2 days ago) it started blowing a fuse, #46 (transmission control moduler) and lighting the entire dashboard up like a Xmas tree.
Check engine light, maintenance required, hill descent, etc. However it is completely random when it does this. It has happened a total of 11 times in 2 days. 6 times in a row yesterday then didn't do it until late this evening 5 times in a row. It will get parked, turn it off, try turning it back on and the fuse is blown, replace it same thing... then will eventually start.
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I have an 03 6.0 F250. My truck started blowing fuse #45 and it would kill my gauges (fuel, oil, mph, rpm, temp, trans temp, and odometer) and I was just replacing the fuse and putting off the repair.
However, the most recent time my gauges blew, the fuse did not, and I put in a 20 amp fuse, in hopes that it would not blow so quickly, bad idea. So naturally, I ordered a new shift lever, in hopes that it would fix the gauges and I wouldn't have to deal with it anymore, but I think it was too late and something else needs to be replaced. What I could possibly have blown by having a larger fuse in there?
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I have 2005 f350 will not shift on the fly. With a vacuum pump it will hold vacuum at both hubs but will not lock up. The seals should be good.
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My Father In-law has a 2012 f-350 Dually with 4K miles. He tows a 9K lb camper and until our last trip the truck ram flawlessly. On our return from Myrtle Beach to central NC we were on a freeway traveling at 63 MPH and his tranny would not shift into 6th gear. Tow haul was on. There was some headwind (10MPH) but no large grades or any reason we can think of not to allow an up shift. His display did show a countdown to empty of the exhaust fluid 450 miles to empty.
He took the truck in for service and no codes were found. Dealer did not find any TSB's addressing the tranny issues. Is the sixth gear up shift in tow haul set very conservative? Does it hold 5th unless the load is below a certain value? Other trips we have been on have been mountain towing so 6th gear shift would have been on down hill or level sections. Dealer wants us to bring it to them when it won't up shift next time but dealer is not along a freeway.
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I would like the hear what others have to say about the problems I'm having with my 2006 F-350 sd xlt 6.0 with 113,000 miles on it. It's being used as a tool truck mostly going from a shop on the property to close by buildings on the same property. In other words very short distances. Used occasionally to take a dump trailer to a close by dumping ground.
1. White smoke from exhaust. I've read this is most likely an ERG cooler that needs replacing. Any other possible causes? If I end up having to replace the cooler is there a stock cooler that is reliable or should I get the one by bullet proof?
2. Diesel is dripping from the muffler weep hole. Last full tank lasted only 60 miles. Could this be the oil cooler? Anything else? If so is the Ford replacement cooler OK or should I go with an upgraded cooler?
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Have 06 super duty . Heater air blowing only on defrost. 4wheel drive. Is this a vacuum problem or some type of sensor or control problem?
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Driving home 2003 6.0 started blowing a ton of black smoke, cars wouldn't get behind me. Found an exhaust leak on the driver side up y pipe. Would that cause this much smoke? 2 codes were 0284 and 0281, I replaced those injectors about 10k ago, at the same time replaced turbo, hpop, egr valve and cooler delete, and new oil cooler.
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2006 blowing white smoke and sluggish until its driven for a few miles ..smells like fuel .. New head gaskets and the works started after 20 days over below freezing temps nights at 5 to -5 ....
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So this '06 F350 is blowing fluid from the steering pump fitting when you move steering wheel to either side all the way(lock). Is the internal o-ring blown in the fitting? Do these have the teflon seal at the pump? Pretty new to the 6.0 scene. Got a new line ordered.
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I have a 06 f350 superduty with a 6.0 I have had injector problems before with the motor even hydro locking no start this is the problem my truck started blowing white smoke with a strong diesel smell everyone said it was oil cooler but I took it to a ford garage the guy said I had 2 injectors hung open and wasn't hydro locking and suggested to put all 8 in so I did 3400.00 not I went to pick it up had no power at all turbo was not kicking in so I took it right back to them they checked it out said turbo was sticking had to clean it it would take 6 hrs. said the fuel In the motor caused it it was working fine when I took it to them now they say maybe a new turbo are they giving me the run around or is this possible....
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I have a 2006 f350 4x4 dually 6.0. The other morning when leaving for work I hard a loud air noise, like a jet. It only happens when the motor is trying to create boost. I have NO boost. No smoke. If I push the fuel pedal past 1/4, nothing. Its like its stuck and no more power at all. I have changed the boot from the turbo to the intercooler pipe. (looked like it had cracks in it). Checked the cold pipe, no cracks seen. Check the exhaust clamps, into the turbo, they are tight. The turbo is seeping oil around the seal. I took the inlet, fresh air, pipe off. Check the turbo spool for looseness, fins, spun the wheel, ran the engine and watch to wheel. Seen no issues. Where to go now?? No coolant leaks, no oil leaks.
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My dad recently bought 2006 6.0. He has had it about 2 and half months. Has the egr delete kit installed. The truck has ran great. Up until Wednesday the 3rd. My dad headed to Ut to pick up our new quads. While heading up a small grade with empty trailer in tow. Truck went to limp mode, fan kicked on, orange wrench came on on dash board. He pulled over let her cool down turned her off.
Checked fluids Then started her back up and she was fine. That has happened 3 times. Now he is on his way back (tow haul mode turned on) and it is doing it again. She hasn't went into limp mode yet. As soon as the fan kicks in my dad pulls over immediately and puts it in park. And lets her cool down checks fluids. This issue only happens mid way up a grade. So my question is...... What is causing this? How do we fix her and make her a happy truck again.
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I drive an 06 f350 with a 6.0 diesel. My truck has quit on me twice in two months. It lost power then stalled and would not restart. I had just changed fuel filters but checked them anyway to see if they were plugged. They looked clean so i put them back in and the truck fired up. It ran good then two months later it did the same thing.
I noticed I could not hear the fuel pump so i pulled the cap off if the top fuel filter to see if there was fuel in it, and heard air being sucked in (or pushed out?) as i loosened the cap. I put the cap back on then turned the key and i could hear the fuel pump working. I waited for glow plugs and it fired up. Is my engine getting vapor locked, or sucking air? If so then why would it only happen every now and then instead of continuously?
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This truck is bone stock FYI. I get in it to crank it and I get nothing. Batteries are good, everything in the cluster lights up, and looks normal. No codes are thrown. I can hear the solenoids click under the dash and hood. I check the voltage of ignition cable at the starter and I get no reading.
There is a single thick yellow with light blue stripe coloured wire on the passenger side of the engine compartment, beside the vacuum pump with a "squeeze and pull" type disconnect. Disconnect it, and connect the male half of the connector to the passenger side battery positive terminal. Do this with the ignition key in the RUN position. Does the truck start?
This is where it gets weird. The truck does start and after i reconnect the wire it it starts normal. I started it several times throughout the day. The next morning I get in the truck. No start. I have to use the wire and manually connect it to the battery and it starts right up again. This time I get a "Tow/Haul" light blinking on the dash. It will go into gear but pressing the acceleration pedal does nothing. I turn it back off, attempt to start it normally and it starts right up. No it will go into gear and drive. Now I am thinking maybe the neutral safety switch?
Could it be a solenoid sticking or the neutral safety switch or something else entirely?
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I was just wondering, is it normal when plowing to get stuck in the snow? Last year I got stuck and had to get pulled out, yesterday I got stuck again and when I have it in 4x4 hi, one front and one rear wheel spins. 4x4 low, the opposite front and opposite rear spin from hi. I want ALL 4 WHEELS TO SPIN! I'd NEVER get stuck if that happened! How do I get that to happen? I hear of a detroit locker. Do you need one for each wheel? I always thought as I was flying past everyone in the snow with a huge smile on my face, that all of my wheels were powered.
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Went today to check out a buddy's truck, 06 F350 164k egr and cooler delete. He finally did his thermostat yesterday, after not having warm heat for months. Today on the way to work, had great heat for about 10 miles, then it went cold. Pulled over to check coolant, cracked cap loose, let pressure out, now had heat again. Same thing on the way home. Had the white streaks down from the cap, lost a small amount of coolant, just at min line now. He's owned this truck since 48k and no heads have never been off.
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