Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: ESOF Won't Engaging Hubs?
Nov 2, 2016
I have my vacuum system back up and working and using my vacuum pump I determined my lines are all good. They hold a vacuum fine, but my ESOF isn't engaging my hubs. I guess that leaves either the selector on the dash or the seal at the hubs.
If it is the selector, I should just be able to just disconnect the vacuum line at the selector and use my pump to engage my hubs. How much it is supposed to take to activate the hubs?
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I am thinking on installing a shutoff in the vacuum line that supplies the hubs so I can use 4LO for backing uphill with a trailer without having the hubs engage. Its either that or a switch to disable the PVH solenoid.
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I have a 2001 F250 4x4 and the ESOF switch not engaging hubs, currently I have no 4x4 lights coming on in the cluster when i turn the switch. I am not experiencing any of the vaccum symptoms that most people are suggesting. I When I turn the switch i also do not hear any relays clicking. Relays have been tested, and i waited for the 45 second transfer delay that the manual mentions. ESOF switch has power, and is working properly (I know because I bought a new one in attempt to fix the problem) Basically I have no responses from any of my 4x4 indicators or parts.
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I have a 2000 f250 CCSB 4x4 with the ESOF auto hubs. The auto hubs won't engage automatically. They work fine manually. The transfer case is engaging and correct lights are coming on. There is a little bit of vacuum coming from the vacuum switch but it doesn't seem like much to me. All the dash HVAC controls work fine though. I Lubed and cleaned inside the hubs according to Guzzles directions.
While torn down, I blew through the vacuum port on the outside of the hub and there was little to no restriction. I don't think there is enough vacuum to pull the hubs, but is that possible if all the dash controls work fine? What pressure should it take to engage them? My next step is to pick up a vacuum pump and see if I can engage them with it.
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New to the 4x4 6.0 just bought an 06' King Ranch 130K miles. My other truck is a 95' 7.3 non 4x4 now for sale. So the new to me 06' will not lock the hubs in Auto mode but will in Manual. I have good vacuum down to each wheel hub which is where my question is.
The vac port at either wheel I get 20-30hg however I believe this is only because something is plugged. If I pump up my vac tester to ~25hg right at the wheel port the needle doesn't move, holds vacuum, but does not Auto lock the hub. So I pulled out the Manual/Auto hub by removing the 3 torque screws thinking my vacuum should then go to 0 but it doesn't it stays right at ~25hg.
Before I bought the truck there was some work done to the front end. New ball-joints, Rt tie-rod and perhaps a few other things I haven't ID yet. Could my problem above be an axle seal or something else perhaps installed incorrectly causing the small vac hole going down inside the hub to be covered up or maybe plugged somehow? I believe to replace the ball joints the axle, hub and other parts have to be removed, correct?
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My ESOF crapped the bed as the truck was stuck in 4 Low. I took the transfer case motor switch off to access the gear underneath it.
I'm able to get vise-grips on it but it only turns clockwise. It keeps turning to a point it won't turn anymore and, if I let go, it will switch back to its original position.
I can do without 4WD until I get ESOF fixed, but is there a trick to manually changing it to 2WD?
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I was hearing a clicking noise on my passenger front wheel when rotating by hand.
Paul suggested I remove the ESOF hub and see if it is the wheel hub or the ESOF hub. It's the ESOF hub.
So I'd like to rebuild it for sure, it also has a nicked o-ring, so that accounts for part of the vacuum leak
I'd like to service the driver's side, too, while I'm at it. It doesn't exhibit any issues, so just regular maintenance stuff there.
Parts lists?
As always, I'll take pics in return
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How to diagnose a vacuum leak without a vacuum leak diagnostic tool.
My ESOF won't engage, AC/heat blowers default to defrost - classic symptoms. And while we can leave without AC/heat, we really need the ability to engage 4x4 low, especially as we get higher into the Andes and the roads become rough.
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My shift indicator switch on the trans seized up, so a local trans shop replaced it for me. Now I get no low range when I select it. I understand it needs to see the truck in neutral to do this, is there a simple adjustment? The trans shop is a long way away.
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I've read many posts about ESOF and fault vacuum lines and how that will prevent 4x4 from engaging. I experienced a different problem this past weekend. Here's the situation...
Was about 1.5hr drive up to the mountains. Outside temp when we left the house: 10F. Outside temp when we arrived at destination: 9F. Quite a bit of road grime on the way up from sand, slush, and that magnesium chloride (or whatever they hell they put on the roads in an attempt to keep it from freezing). 4x4 worked fine on the way up. 4x4 light on dash was on, and I KNOW I could not have climbed the snow-covered forest roads without being in 4x4. Also, I could hear and feel the front hubs turning.
On the way home, once I got to where the roads were sufficiently ice free, I turned the dial on the dash back to 2WD. 4x4 light goes out. But I can hear and feel the front hubs are still turning. Toggled the switch back and forth a few times. 4x4 light would come and go with the toggled switch. But the hubs didn't disengage.
When I got back into town (outside temp now about 5), we stopped at a red light and I toggled the switch again. This time, the hubs disengaged. Is this a sign of bad vacuum? Or more an indication of faulty hubs??
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Warn Premiums, installed them and now the 4x4 is engaging, but still have a grinding issue. When the hubs are locked and the switch is in 2 wheel drive, the frond end is grinding, if I switch it to 4 hi, the grinding goes away.
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To those of you that have replaced your unit bearing hubs on your 4 x 4's; are they giving comparable service to the OEM units? I'm replacing ball-joints right now and it would sure be easy to slap on some new hubs. The only issue is I have 130k on the originals and have been lubing them through the ABS port for the last 20k miles - the hubs seem to be in good condition. I've noticed some posters stating that since lubing an already good hub, that they are now getting a lot more than the standard 150k out of them. I also worry about replacing perfectly good US bearing hubs with most likely a Chinese bearing hub (Timken or not!).
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As my truck stands it has OEM automatic locking hubs with a selector for auto or lock. So, why would some one buy manual locking hubs and cap off the ESOF vacuum line when the OEM ones perform the same function by being auto or locked?
I hope this makes sense because if I felt I wanted to go to manual style locking hubs, I think I could simply cap off the vacuum line and then switch the hub to lock if I wanted 4x4 because the electric switch inside the truck is actually what engages the transfer case and puts the truck into 4x4.
Is this thinking/theory correct or am I missing something here?
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I took apart, cleaned and lubed my hubs. My question is: how does the vacuum make the gears work?
Does the vacuum force (suck) the nylon assembly to push the outer gear towards the center of the truck, sliding on the inner gear thus engaging the teeth so that the axle shaft turns the hub?
When the vacuum is gone, does spring pressure pushes the outer gear away from the center of the truck thus disengaging the teeth from the inner gear and allowing the hub to free wheel?
Is this vacuum source constant during 4wd and not present during 2wd or do I not understand how the system works? I have read about a “vacuum pulse” that locks the hubs and another pulse that unlocks the hubs and this confuses me.
BTW, I like the way the Auto lock works. I had a set of Warn Auto Lock hubs on my 78 CJ. They worked on the principle of a set of roller bearings that would lock (pinch) when there was torque coming from the drive shaft. There was no vacuum involved at all. The down side was that when you coasted, the front hubs would be in two wheel drive and so you would not get the engine braking on all 4 wheels. These ESOF seem to have solved this problem.
Oh, I should probably tell you that I just purchased my 04 F250 SuperDuty 4x4 with the 6.0 diesel, just had it a week. It has been 18 years since I owned a 4x4. Before this I owned an 87 F250 2wd with the 6.9 diesel.
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I am in the process of replacing the complete front end on my 02 CC 4x4. Im replacing the hubs the lockers all seals and spindle axles. complete brakes with power stop and stainless brake lines ......I am going to switch back to the original automatic lockers. I am curious if has a simplified one line for the vacuum routing from the pump to the hubs?
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I was getting a growl/grinding noise from my front hubs (driver's side I think) when I do a slight right turn like going around a curve, not turning around a corner. Just started happening the last week after returning from a 4th of July roadtrip. First thought was wheel bearings going out and started reading up on the forum here to see what was needed. Last night, I started getting a continuous growl when I was 5 miles from the house so just pulled up and parked it. I'm assuming (without pulling anything apart), it's the bearing assembly and I can get the Timken version at Autozone locally.
The problem is I generally do my heavy maintenance at our family shop in San Antonio but I live in Austin so will need to do this in my driveway. I have all the basic tools, just need to know how involved it is to do in a driveway instead of a shop. Thoughts?
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I know this is going to sounds lame, my wife can't turn them, they have cover over it that has to be unscrewed to get at 'em. It would be nice to shift in and out "on the fly" as weather condition change.
Is it a difficult change?
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My transfer case engages the front drive shaft spins but even when I manually lock my hubs neither of my tires will pull! I was thinking either the hubs are shot but I was told it could be the 4wd locking solenoid??
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Odd question, but the a/c clutch has always engaged randomly even though the a/c is not on and even now when the heat is on. Is this normal?
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I noticed that my 4WD is only working now when I manually lock the hubs in (they have that options!), and the air blows out the defroster when I shift, so it looks like I have a vacuum leak. Where are the typical leak points on a 2006 F250? What's the best way to confirm a leak (other than just replacing all of the hose)?
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My 2005 has the ESOF system which has worked flawlessly. Recently I had upper and lower ball joints done and after that repair I had no auto locking hubs. ( independent shop messed up seal install ) they redid the job and it now seems like my front hubs are locking automatically because I am getting binding while turning. So this is the problem.. the front wheels do not "pull" only the rear wheels spin. If I manually lock the hubs I have 4x4 and can get out of being nearly stuck and everything works normally. What is wrong here? Does the shop need to redo the job again?
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