Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Erratic Boost And Occasional Stalling?
Sep 16, 2015
I've had this 01 7.3 for a few months now. When I first purchased I dropped new battery's, couple glow plugs, and wire harness going to the Pass side valve cover. it has 150k on it and an Edge tunner.
My first problem was about 2 weeks ago, it was raining and i was making a turn at about 5mph And all power shut off. I put it into park cranked 3times started up and the tuner stayed off for about 3minutes. I ran to auto zone and picked up a cps (I've recently found that oem is the only way to go?)
I made a trip about 2hrs locked the CC in about 70mph and the boost was going well over 12psi. this seems crazy because i usually dont get it over 4psi. I drive it with a light foot. on my way home i was pulling a trailer about 8000lbs load driving about 5mph out of the lot it shut off again. Started right back up and made the trip home fine. With the exception of the erratic boost.
Yesterday it shut off at about 40mph and turned back on its own. I am not throwing out a lot smoke doesn't have problems starting, I did a once over on the wire harness's and nothings jumping out to me.
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
I've been having problems with hesitation and a flutter at cruising speeds as well as erratic idle. I have a 2000 F-250 SD with 497K Miles. I was having poor starts during florida winter ( had to plug in a couple times) Had no oil coming out of #2 inject and #8 buzz was weak. Flutter was there and was the original reason I started digging. Right now the only code Im throwing with my chip turned off is a P0470. I cleaned the tube and the sensor but its still throwing.
I have recently replaced all Injectors, Glow Plugs, Valve Cover Gaskets & Harnesses, CPS, Fuel Pump, ICP was replaced before new plug no oil showing.
Mods: 6637 Air Cleaner, TS-6 Chip
Truck has mad power now no problem starting. Its really starting to frustrate me Ford dealer wont troubleshoot unless I remove the chip. I feel like it should be something simple because on the throttle it will set you back in your seat cruising at 70+ no flutter ..... but slow down to 50 55 in traffic and let off the throttle when you start to ease back into it 1500 - 1800 "buck buck buck" if I monitor ICP pressure I see a fluctuation in psi of about 200 -300 psi (1400 to 1200 or 1000 to 800) . If I throttle harder it will stop or let off the throttle. I can feel it do it sometimes before the TC locks so I dont think its a TC issue. I even tested with OD off and I can recreate. The magic area appears to be 1500 - 2000 rpm....
View 6 Replies
I have a 2000 F250 superduty crew cab short box. It has any occasional issue of either just shutting down (engine dies) which seems to happen if i hit an occasional bump. The other issue has happened a couple of times which is it will lose power and just go to a rough idle. I shut it off and restart it and it will run fine. I'm wondering if it is the throttle position sensor.
View 2 Replies
I've been having a very erratic fuel gauge issue as of about 2 months ago. My fuel level would register full, when in fact I knew it only had 1/2 a tank or so. Then 5 minutes later it would be pegged on full. Under a 1/2 tank the gauge would read any where from 1/2 to empty from 1 minute to the next. So last week I decided to drop my tank and take a look. I was thinking maybe my fuel sender was broken, maybe a loose wire in the tank, or even that my float had dropped off in to the tank.
After dropping the tank, I removed the PK-Up and sending unit and everything was intact. I placed my ohm meter on the sending unit and it checked out fine. So I took the Pk-up and rolled back up underneath the truck and plugged it back in. I had my son turn the key on and off while I moved the float to different levels in order that it would register. It registered empty, 1/4/, 1/2, 3/4 and full just fine as I moved the float to those levels. If you leave the key in the run position and move the float, it won't register or better said, the in cab gauge will not adjust with the movement.
You have to turn the key off move the float and hold it there, then have your assistant turn the key on and the gauge will show the position that you've moved and held it at. I simply removed the plastic cover from the sending unit, and sprayed it down real good with electrical contact cleaner. I didn't scrub the copper contact area at all.
I was concerned that scrubbing might remove more than I wanted to, and really mess things up. I attached an Ohm meter and checked resistance thru out the float travel. All checked out good and I reinstalled it. So now my fuel gauge is working as it should be. I did make a video while I ohmed the Sender Unit thru it's travel, but for some reason it won't load.
[URL] ....
View 5 Replies
2002 7.3, losing coolant. Occasional whiff of antifreeze, not in oil. I use my truck to tow a food trailer that's only about 4500lbs, some highway, most city driving. 173K clicks, bout Jan 2016 with 130K, first time this has happened...
View 9 Replies
A bit about my truck : 2001 F250 CC SB 4x4 175k miles
Wicked wheel, 6637 filter, DP tuner, Summit 5" exhaust, pressure regulator somewhere in the boost circuit to fool the computer a bit....
Every few times I drive the truck it will stumble and maybe even stall. The issue feels something like a CPS problem, although I've swapped out a few CPS to see if I by chance had a bad one in the engine as well as a bad one in the glove box. No changes. I was driving home from work one afternoon and it was running particularly bad. I stopped off at a local garage (who doesn't work on diesels and was reluctant to plug in....but did because he's a nice guy).
He plugged in with his snap-on tool and came up with P0603 and P1211. The P0603 seems to be nearly inevitable with a tuner. Check P1211 sounds like it could be an issue with a number of things, but I tried to attack the free and cheap issues first. I dropped my tank and had a look inside. I was hoping to find a squirrel wrapped around the sending unit, but there was a disappointingly small amount of crud. I cleaned it up and put it back in, then changed my fuel filter. No improvements.
So I decided to get with the program and buy AutoEnginuity. Got it. Even did some reading in class and did the initial homework assignment on page 2 or 3. Seems like the best thing to do it hook up, set up some parameters to monitor, and drive around recording until the problem happens. But.........what parameters do I want to monitor? I don't want to overtax the OBDII bus with too many requests such that my data looks like crap.
A few other things............ In the last year I swapped out the valve-cover gaskets & harnesses with an all-in-one molded setup. About a month back I replaced the exhaust back pressure sensor and tube.
View 14 Replies
This was briefly discussed as part of another thread. It appears that I have a boost leak when I hit roughly 24.5 psi. The leak seems to stay for a few minutes after showing itself, but then I'm able to produce boosts up to 24.5 again. For example, on my 20-mile/30-minute drive to work, I can make this leak "appear" four or five times, maybe more if I try. Does this self-healing leak ring a bell? I haven't done a boost leak test yet, but I'm leaning towards the RTV sealant at the OEM plenums due to the self-healing attribute.
To add a little info to this thread, I recently installed an S&B intake, 4" exhaust, bellowed up-pipes, RR billet wheel, RR CAC intercooler boot kit with new clamps, RDP reinforcing plenum inserts, AIH delete plug, and I removed the wastegate solenoid along with the red and green tubes. I don't have any gauges, but I recently began monitoring the boost using FORScan. Before all of this, I don't think I was producing enough boost to cause this leak, and I had no way to monitor for this leak.
View 14 Replies
Well I am at a loss now. Rebuilt the turbo with a new wheel and kit from Riffraff. I still have no power, no boost and no codes. The new wheel whistles. I can hear it. It sounds way better than the old one. But still no power. I really don't know what to do now.
View 14 Replies
Short version is that I just did the EBPV delete with new pedestal and turbo exhaust outlet and put a new turbo middle cartridge in as mine had blown a seal and possibly broken the shaft. Once I got it all put together, I took it for a test drive and it was building 20PSI like it used to but I didn't have the accumulator and turbo mated up fully so I had a leak there.
I corrected that and now don't get any boost until I get to about 2500RPM and then it only builds to about 10PSI. I've double and triple checked all my connections, boots, etc. and everything is tight on the intake, intercooler, up-pipes and collector, exhaust and the spider, I can't see or feel any problems there. I tried disconnecting the MAP sensor and it might be a little better but not even close to normal.
Tried disconnecting the red line from the wastegate and plugging it with no difference. I'm stuck, and frustrated. I do have AE, watching the MGP looks like the MAP sensor is working. I feel like I'm overlooking something simple but I just can't figure out what it is...
View 14 Replies
I disconnected the red wastegate hose in order to address a low boost high EGT issue. This seemed to fix the boost / EGT issue for the most part, but now I get this P1249 code. The first time I got it I saw boost at about 20 PSI. I figured I would try to keep the boost below 20 in an attempt to prevent the code.
I managed to capture some log info when throwing the code. The highest boost reading I saw was 19.58. Pretty close to twenty but I question if I even should be getting this code at this level of boost?
Here's a chart with the boost info. Yes I still have a very bouncy EBP and hope to track that down at some point as well....
View 8 Replies
Bought the x in feb, put in the billeted wheel, modified the turbo pedestal, put in dorman uppies, put my boost leak detector on it and had no leaks then. Also put on the walker btm and gauges at that point. Took my chip to a local to get tunes. I was pleased enough with the power, and can hit 24 psi. However, it smokes like a freight train if I give it much pedal. I don't drive it a ton, but in the last week I did a 400 mile trip to pick up a trailer, then 800 miles on vacation in Colorado. The fender flare by the exhaust is now black.
It has to be pulling a trailer or going up a decent hill while cruising at 70 to show any boost at all on the gauge. If I give it gas, it belches out the smoke, unless I get on it and get the boost to 10 or more. Most of the time while cruising along I don't need to speed up that much so it just smokes and doesn't build more than 2 psi boost.
My f350 by comparison usually runs 4-6 psi boost running down the road at 65, and slight movements of the accelerator can affect that number immediately.
I don't have my leak detector with me so I can't verify that I have no leaks right now, but I can still hit 24 psi... Last night I used oven cleaner and got the whole area around the turbo pretty clean. Drove it 60 miles today, and don't see any soot around anything, maybe it's to soon to tell? Is there anything else I should check, or is it as simple as getting new tunes?
View 10 Replies
I bought a ts 6 position from kt performance with PHP canned tunes pretty much and on the 140 tune I get no black smoke under throttle, now I would imagine this is normal with stock injectors because im sure the turbo can keep up somewhat. But the problem is I only make 16 psi max so shouldn't I be dumping black smoke? I know the low boost is because I have a hole in the intercooler pipe next to the power steering pump, but do I have low fuel pressure? I would imagine with only 16psi all the fuel will not be burnt. Hpop can hit 2800 and hold 2500. But ipr hit 80% under full throttle at 3k rpm and had trouble shifting but other than that never sees over 45%. I want to know whats going on with the fuel not boost, just to clear things up. And I don't really feel any power loss im stock. 99 f350 7.3 4x4 long bed cc
And just to be clear I am NOT trying to Roll Coal but a nice smoke trail when flooring it past people who cut you off would be nice
View 14 Replies
I believe I am having spooling issues with my 2000 f250 7.3 automatic truck. I now am running a 67mm billet compressor wheel with a 1.00ar turbine housing and high flow outlet so basically a thrust bearing 38r . I'm running oem sticks and PHP tunes on my hydra. On the 140 tune egts top out at 1200* uphill. So egts are not a problem. Boost tops out at 29-30 psi and 1-3 down the interstate. I see a lot of trucks that can hit 20+ psi in second by just squashing the skinny petal and I could also do this with my oem turbo. Mine takes awhile to get psi up like I said it will hit 30 if I'm petal to the carpet for a few and get going but I feel like it's not spooling as quickly as it "should ".
I completely built this turbo with new parts nothing was reused down to the heat shield behind the turbine wheel inside the turbine housing. I used all American And Canadian built parts . 360 thrust and a banks 1.00 turbine housing. When I bought the turbine shaft and compressor wheel it stated that they where pre balanced and I could clearly see the balancing marks on both but the shaft and compressor wheel are from two different manufacturers so there was no way to be sure that everything would align and be balanced. Basically my question is do you think it would to be wise to have the assembly balanced? Could this be the reason the turbo doesn't spool as fast as my oem gtp38 did . I've been running the turbo for four months now .
View 14 Replies
So I just put billowed up pipes and changed the broken O ring in the turbo housing. Put everything back together and checked for a boost leak with the home made tester. Boots and everything ARE OK. I can hear air escaping from what seems to be the valve cover or intake. I realize that I am charging my crank case as well but it still concerns me that air is escaping from somewhere besides the CCV. I read the following forum and this guy had the same issue and after he found out he was charging his crank case he was no longer worried. . . . .
View 12 Replies
I just recently installed a CTS2 Insight and wondering what the typical boost pressures I should be seeing without a load just normal driving. Right now I am seeing mostly 0 unless under acceleration then it goes up to 10 psi if I floor it I am getting 15psi.
View 14 Replies
I guess it would be classified as very intermittent but in the past year I have had 3 separate times when my truck has after a short drive suddenly had zero boost..
Pull over and turn it off for 30 sec or so and all is fine. Cycle the ignition faster than that and issue persisted. It has only happened in colder temps. In all the reading I have done on FTE I've not come across anything similar.
View 14 Replies
Alrighty let me see if I can get everything. 01 6speed 450hp at rear wheels. Comp 910 valve springs, valve seals, 238-80% injectors, full RR, 38r turbo, napa air filter, Hydra with Gearhead tunes, 5"exhaust, 280k about 100k on rebuild. All mods done 40k ago. Now I have a horrible up pipe leak I assume is causing the low boost #'s I have to do another clutch so up pipes will be fixed when tranny is out this week. But I'm using 1-2 gallons of oil every 3k or so. I smell burning oil when I get out, mainly if I am getting on it then stop. I haven't pulled the fuel filter to see if its a injector o ring. (Tonight's project) but turbo sounds fine, I'm going check for shaft play tonight. What could be my loss of oil without it actually leaking on the ground?
View 14 Replies
I have done some searching on this, seen a video on YouTube but haven't read anything that is firm on what it is. We pulled our 5er for the first time last weekend and the chatter was pretty pronounced in the Arbuckles here in OK. I was running around 65 mph when I hit the largest hill and as I was climbing my speed naturally dropped, boost was around 17 - 18 psi when the chatter started.
Is it something to be really concerned about? Is there anything to be done to prevent it? I'm pretty much still stock, only deletes have been airbox to 6637, and I deleted the heater by turbo for the boost gauge. Other than that everything on truck is still stock.
View 2 Replies
165k miles 4x4 6 speed, bone stock unmolested
Slowly progressing problem over 6 months. Occasional miss at highway speeds uphill has progressed to bucking and jerking during even gentle acceleration attempts.
I hadn't got my cam sensor recall done but no change after that procedure completed yesterday. Oil recently changed as well.
I have a torque pro but it never finds any fault codes even though 'service engine' light comes on sporadically. I'm not sure I'm operating it properly but it at least reads rpm when its running.
I'm contemplating the hutch mod but I'd like to have an official diagnosis beforehand if its possible in my case.
View 12 Replies
I bought a 99 f350 truck. it has a van turbo and exhaust back pressure delete. The truck wont make more than 3 PSI of boost. Ive got a p1690 wastegate actuator circuit code. unplugging the waste actuator does nothing. With the van turbo, is the actuator required? Is this code stopping the ecu from fueling and creating boost? I did a cylinder balance test, and cylinder 8 failed. Is a single injector not quite balanced enough to make it not boost past 3 psi? The turbo appears brand new (previous owner said it was), charge pipes hold pressure (tested), EBP Sensor tube is clean (shows up to 24 psi). I tested the wastegate actuator, OnDemand5 says if its over 50 ohms, its bad and replace it. its 69.5 ohms. Again, i dont want to replace it if i dont have to, as its not being used (no wastegate on van turbo), but if the ecu is preventing it from spooling because of the solenoid, ill change it.
View 14 Replies
2000 truck, 334k, automatic 2wd, stock. Have low power, 11psi max.
Permanent p0472 code, can't clear it even temporarily. The moment I turn the key to Acc, code is there. It's the only code showing on Forscan.
Tried 470ohm 1/2watt resistor, in two turbo pedestal sensor connector wires, no change. Forscan shows 0.0-0.6 psi EBP value when running.
No change with pedestal sensor plugged or unplugged. Resistor or not. Truck starts and runs good, low power is the only issue.
Sensor and tube are new. Seems like wiring is bad, where to look next to track this down?
View 12 Replies
