I have a 2000 F250 superduty crew cab short box. It has any occasional issue of either just shutting down (engine dies) which seems to happen if i hit an occasional bump. The other issue has happened a couple of times which is it will lose power and just go to a rough idle. I shut it off and restart it and it will run fine. I'm wondering if it is the throttle position sensor.
View 2 RepliesMy 6.0 powerstroke keeps shutting off when I hit a bump. It's like everything died and reset and I loose all memory to stereo and everything. When I got to work and popped the hood I tapped on the battery cover by the pcm and it shut off again.
View 5 RepliesLast week the engine in my truck was shutting off while driving. Happened to me 3 times over the course of two days. The first couple of times, the engine was dead for 3-5 seconds and then the engine would come alive and drive normally again. The third time was about a 10 second event...same result, engine refired on it's own and drove normally. I was in motion all three times so the engine restarts all occurred before I was able to bring the truck to a complete stop.
No check engine light...(I didn't pull any codes because I didn't have my laptop with me). So, I decided to try a new CPS. I had one in my glove box since 2003 so in it went. It replaced a black CPS that I purchased from Riffraff about 100k miles ago. The new CPS seems to have done the trick. I've driven about 500 miles since the swap and the symptom has not returned. I wonder how long this one will last. It's a Ford replacement part so maybe I'll get another 100k miles...
So I have this intermittent problem of the truck shutting down on its own when in idle or idling along in drive I immediately put the truck in N, turn the key and she starts right up again.
Does not do it at speeds, just in idle. The "check gage" and "battery" light are the only dash lights on after a shut down.
Where do I start?
I have been battling and issue with my 02 7.3 just shutting down on my at random times.
1st Time
Outside Temp: 100
Drove 5miles sitting at in idle in bimart parking lot truck shut down
Let sit overnight, went back started right up
2nd Time
Outside Temp: 100
Driving home sitting in traffic slow moving 5mph, truck shut down
Able to start up about 5mins later
3rd Time
Replaced CPS, Air filter, Fuel Filter
Outside Temp: 80
Hauling travel trailer up peak 35-45mph shut down
Allowed truck to sit 35-45mins started back up
Started hauling made it about half mile shut down
Got towed to flat land to unload trailer and haul the rest of the way
Returned to truck
Started right up 45mins later, drove it 30miles home without a problem
I am at a loss i keep reading and seeing HPOP, tin nut, IPR, EBR..
The last post I read was about the IPR : [URL] .....
I've had this 01 7.3 for a few months now. When I first purchased I dropped new battery's, couple glow plugs, and wire harness going to the Pass side valve cover. it has 150k on it and an Edge tunner.
My first problem was about 2 weeks ago, it was raining and i was making a turn at about 5mph And all power shut off. I put it into park cranked 3times started up and the tuner stayed off for about 3minutes. I ran to auto zone and picked up a cps (I've recently found that oem is the only way to go?)
I made a trip about 2hrs locked the CC in about 70mph and the boost was going well over 12psi. this seems crazy because i usually dont get it over 4psi. I drive it with a light foot. on my way home i was pulling a trailer about 8000lbs load driving about 5mph out of the lot it shut off again. Started right back up and made the trip home fine. With the exception of the erratic boost.
Yesterday it shut off at about 40mph and turned back on its own. I am not throwing out a lot smoke doesn't have problems starting, I did a once over on the wire harness's and nothings jumping out to me.
2002 7.3, losing coolant. Occasional whiff of antifreeze, not in oil. I use my truck to tow a food trailer that's only about 4500lbs, some highway, most city driving. 173K clicks, bout Jan 2016 with 130K, first time this has happened...
View 9 RepliesToday I was driving about 35 mph when I drove over a small patch of rough pavement and I started feeling and hearing a rumbling sound from the right side of my truck.
It felt like I was driving on a dirt road so thinking it may be my flex plate I put the truck in neutral and the rpms went to idle and the rumbling stayed consistent with the tire rotation. When I get to about 5mph it just clears up and drives fine until I hit another bump.
Is this my wheel bearing?
A bit about my truck : 2001 F250 CC SB 4x4 175k miles
Wicked wheel, 6637 filter, DP tuner, Summit 5" exhaust, pressure regulator somewhere in the boost circuit to fool the computer a bit....
Every few times I drive the truck it will stumble and maybe even stall. The issue feels something like a CPS problem, although I've swapped out a few CPS to see if I by chance had a bad one in the engine as well as a bad one in the glove box. No changes. I was driving home from work one afternoon and it was running particularly bad. I stopped off at a local garage (who doesn't work on diesels and was reluctant to plug in....but did because he's a nice guy).
He plugged in with his snap-on tool and came up with P0603 and P1211. The P0603 seems to be nearly inevitable with a tuner. Check P1211 sounds like it could be an issue with a number of things, but I tried to attack the free and cheap issues first. I dropped my tank and had a look inside. I was hoping to find a squirrel wrapped around the sending unit, but there was a disappointingly small amount of crud. I cleaned it up and put it back in, then changed my fuel filter. No improvements.
So I decided to get with the program and buy AutoEnginuity. Got it. Even did some reading in class and did the initial homework assignment on page 2 or 3. Seems like the best thing to do it hook up, set up some parameters to monitor, and drive around recording until the problem happens. But.........what parameters do I want to monitor? I don't want to overtax the OBDII bus with too many requests such that my data looks like crap.
A few other things............ In the last year I swapped out the valve-cover gaskets & harnesses with an all-in-one molded setup. About a month back I replaced the exhaust back pressure sensor and tube.
I have a 2000 F250 super cab and the doors rattle going over bumps. I've seen the weather stripping mod and intend to do this but my drivers side doors are touching at the top. Would this indicate that the busings are shot? With the doors open, when I lift on the outer edge there is no movement in the hinge area. The drives door and drivers side back door actually touch and rub at the top. Any pointers?
View 10 RepliesWhat would cause me to lose accelerator pedal function after hitting a bump? The engine remains on, the CEL comes on and after a few seconds or shifting into neutral and back into drive I regain the accelerator again and the CEL goes out
The truck shows no codes. It is if some connection makes/breaks intermittently when I hit a rough pavement. Also, she sometimes won't shift in reverse. Could it be related?
165k miles 4x4 6 speed, bone stock unmolested
Slowly progressing problem over 6 months. Occasional miss at highway speeds uphill has progressed to bucking and jerking during even gentle acceleration attempts.
I hadn't got my cam sensor recall done but no change after that procedure completed yesterday. Oil recently changed as well.
I have a torque pro but it never finds any fault codes even though 'service engine' light comes on sporadically. I'm not sure I'm operating it properly but it at least reads rpm when its running.
I'm contemplating the hutch mod but I'd like to have an official diagnosis beforehand if its possible in my case.
About 4-5 weeks ago my 2002 F-250 7.3 just died with no warning after coming off the highway and since then it hesitates/dies when hitting a bump or while applying pedal with the A/C on. The code that keeps popping up is the P0344 "CPS" and the code for back pressure sensor... I have replaced the CPS twice "making sure the 1st one was not bad", the back pressure sensor and the tube the goes the manifold, and fuel filter and still having problems... I didn't know if there could be a fuel pump issue or something else?
View 14 RepliesFor probably years, I have had a bump, thump type noise when I start from a dead stop... say at a red light. I had it in my head, maybe there was that much slop in the drive train... as old truck is over 400,000 miles.
Yesterday, I rebuilt the driver's side axle, bearing,seals, new hub...the works.. I heard that noise again later... and my thoughts were, I did all that work and I'm going to find a lower/upper ball joint is bad, although I did look at them and thought they were fine during the rebuild.
Had my wife get in truck.... and swing wheel back & forth... so maybe I could see what was loose.. or making noise.
I was shocked... just something I never thought of looking at. The u-bolts holding the leaf springs were loose... the whole axle was shifting back and forth on the axle. I've never touched those bolts....
I have a 2003 Excursion 6.0 with edge juice with attitude
While driving first thing in the morning runs like a champ, as the engine warms up I start seeing the exhaust temps lower to 88-94, then I start getting over boost code with monitor reading of 41psi, then the Edge monitor screen will go blank, then the STALL... The excursion with start right back up but the shut off immediately. Wait 20-30 minutes in the shade and will start back up and run again poorly missing almost like turning the key off and back on... Then the next morning start all over again.
I'm thinking bad FICM or bad PMC over heating.. ??
Have a problem with the gauges and radio shutting down sometimes.. Thought it might be a loose wire or something.. But noticed on the scan gauge that it would happen when the volts went over 16 volts.. Is there an external voltage regulator or is it just time for a new alternator..
View 3 RepliesGetting an occasional tea kettle type sound when towing. Immediately thought head gaskets but no coolant loss or residue on the degas bottle or cap, no change in coolant level. If I just back off of the throttle it will go away immediately and may or may not come back on the trip.
View 12 Replies2012 6.7 F250 with 17k miles. It's getting hotter here and the last couple of days when shutting down there is a sound coming from the engine compartment that sounds like an air pump on one of those load-leveling systems. It will go on for about 15 seconds then stop.
View 12 RepliesLast November I forgot to plug my truck in and it got down to 0, my girlfriend tried unsuccessfully to jump start it. When I got home I jumped it and got it running. I took it down to a heated shop to troubleshoot the glow plug circuit. I discovered it was not getting 12v to the glow plug relay. Also I started it and tried to back it up in the shop, when put in reverse it killed the engine, not lugged it down it was like you shut the switch off.
Also I discovered if you turn the lights on it kills the engine immediately. It will not crank with the lights on either. So far I have replaced the computer,ignition switch,batteries, and cam positioning sensor. Now comes the weird part!! I decided to get it running and pull the bulbs out of the back up lights I pulled the drivers bulb first then the passengers side bulb. When I pulled the passengers side bulb it killed the engine.
It is not my daily driver so it still sits in my shop. I have a hunch it's a ground issue but I've checked and cleaned up all the grounds I can find and it still has the problem.
Brakes seem fine even when the light comes on so I'm guessing its more a sensor issue but which sensor? From researching others posts about ABS lights, seems the sensor on top of the rear differential is a common culprit, but I'm not having an speedometer issues, which also seems to be related to that sensor. It used to be if the bump was big enough to kick the cruise control off, the ABS light popped on as well, but now it's only a moderate bump and it will come on. Shut the rig off, re-start and the ABS light clears, until the next bump that is.
View 6 RepliesI have searched and have found a few threads on various transmission shifting issues. However nothing really pertaining to 13+ trucks that is only happening under certain conditions. It seems earlier trucks with problems were experiencing it all the time, not intermittent.
Here's what I got.... This only happens when:
- temp is 20 degrees or colder
- Truck has been sitting and is cold
- Trans temp under 70-80 degrees
- Only happens on the 3 to 2 DOWNshift when cold
The first few downshifts from 3 to 2 have a slight clunk/bump to them...just enough to feel it. After the first few initial downshifts from 3 to 2, it will not do it then, shifts fine and smooth. After a minutes of driving it, it will not do it until the next time it meets the list of items above. If I skip this gear manually until it has warmed up, it will not do it when returning to it.
-All other gears both up and down shifting feel good just the 3 to 2 when it does happen.
Once the transmission is warm or the temp is warmer outside the problem is non-existent and transmission shifts great in all gears and is smooth as butter!