Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F250 - Click With No Start
Dec 21, 2015
So I bought a Lifted 1999 F250 a couple weeks ago and last night the thing wouldn't start. The battery connections are not perfect but there's power going to the truck because it will give me the wait to start light and all. When I try to start it there's one really loud click and certain lights like the clock momentarily turn off when it clicks. Tried hitting the starter didn't work. Tried putting a jump pack to the starter and it didn't spark like expected.
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I have a 01 f250, I've only had it a couple of months. It has 300k miles on it and has its share of problems. I knew that going in and I just bought it for a work truck around the farm and honestly I don't expect it to work perfectly. But since I have had it there are times where it will not crank, it will only click under the dash and then a second click under the hood. It will do that in the mornings a lot and by the afternoon it will crank. I found that jumping the 2 larger wires on the starter solenoid bypasses the problem and it will turn over and crank. So I replaced the solenoid thinking that was the problem, but it still does the same thing. I know the batteries are good.
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Alright so I have a 99 7.3l. One day I went to start my truck and when I turn the key to the on position all is normal and then when I turn it all the way to crank it nothing happens. I hear a relay click ann thed that's it. Me and a buddy of mine spent quite some time on going through the entire truck. The starter was replaced, the neutral safety switch was replaced and the ignition switch was replaced yet the problem is still there. We then discovered that fuse #20 under the dash keeps blowing with every turn of the key. The manual states that this fuse is a starter motor relay coil PCM ( gasoline only). So if it's gas only why is it even in there. Let me just say that I can jump the fender mounted relay and the truck starts.
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Just tried putting a ts6 on my pcm. First time I hooked it back up I just got cranking with no start. So I pulled the pcm terminals really well plugged it back in and got nothing. I do not remember because I was kind of in a hurry if I unplugged the batter cables and back on the second time. I plugged it back in after cleaning terminals and went to start and got nothing. A loud click on passenger wheel well and then all electric in truck completely dies. I hope I didn't fry my pcm. Maybe just blew a fuse or starter relay?
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My truck will not always start when in park, Have to switch it to neut sometime, and sometime after putting it in park it won't fully engage, I know the part that I need to replace just don't know the name or the part number for ford....It is the part that adjusts the shift indicator...
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I have a 99 F 250 7.3. It runs fine at idle even for a long time. When I drive around the block a couple of times it will start chugging and lose power and shut off. I have been mixing fryer oil with the diesel. I changed the fuel filter, oil change, crank sensor and fuel pump. I added 15 gallons of diesel and diesel treatment. Pulled fuel filter and bowel is full I'm not sure where to look next.
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Cooler weather has arrived and my 2000 f250 won't start. Wait to start light is coming on, no power passing through the two relays on top of the engine. Are both of these for glowplugs? My 97 only had one. How do I diagnose relays on this truck? If you cross out the two relays truck fires right off so I know the glowplugs themselves are good.
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I have 2001 7.3 f250 ... I just got it about 2 months ago I drove it for maybe 2 week and it ran good the other morning I went out to start it and would not start and the way I was parked my low fuel light was on so I put 5 gallons of fuel in finally got it started sum how drove it for maybe 2 hrs parked it and wen we got back in to go it was done for hasn't started since its been down for a bout 2 weeks now I've replaced hpop, icp, pcm, fuel filter,checked idm for corrosion it all looks well, gpr,checked uvch on driver side looked good and changed cps what else do I have to go from ? No matter what it won't start good batteries cranks good but no start ...
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Replaced my engine installed all hocked up cracks but does not fire for some reason it is not getting fuel to the injectors new hpop ipr icp. What else to do....
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Truck is a e99 f250sd 4x4 7.3 manual trans. The truck started and ran fine to work this morning. Went to leave this afternoon. Hopped in, put key in and tried to start it. Engine just turned over, never started. Thought that it didn't start because I didn't let the plow plugs warm up enough. Turned ignition off, turned back on and let wait to start light to go out. Same thing happened again. Just turned over but wouldn't start. As far as I can tell the fuel pump is running. Felt it vibrating while the ignition was on. What to check.
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I have an electrical problem on my 2003 f250 7.3 diesel. Sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't (mostly doesn't). I have two new batteries in it and have cleaned the grounds at the batteries and at the engine. When I go to start the truck all the lights in the dashboard work and it dings at me but when i crank the key nothing. I wanted to see if i was getting power to the starter and when I put my multi-meter down on the ignition wire on the starter and put my ground lead on the chassis bolt it starts every time.....I'm thinking this should not happen?? Is that a bad ground or a short or something else?
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2001 f250 7.3 with 210,000 miles. Was running rough when cold and glow plugs were bad so I bought new glow plugs and had injectors rebuilt with 100% over stock nozzles. When I changed them I made sure I turned the motor with glow plugs out and pulled the drain plug in the head. Wanted to start it just to get the oil out before I let it sit for a few days til I got the tuner. It started fine and I let it run while I ran in the house and when I came back out about 1 min later it was off. Didn't want to start again. Just left it til I got the tuner on and It still doesn't want to start. What I should check? Turns over good and has good batteries. Also it's a hydra chip tuner with beans tunes. Darren weeks rebuilt the injectors.
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So I have a 2001 f250 7.3l and on my way to work yesterday while driving down a hill I switched my ts 6 switch to 140 and it immediately stalled, so I pulled over and restarted the truck and it started up fine and I drove the rest of the way to work, I go to start it after work and it won't start, it just cranks and cranks and cranks, occasionally it'll fire and I got it to start and was able to rev it for about 30 seconds but then it died, disconnect the 6 position switch from the idm and tried but still nothing.
So today I replaced the ipr valve, got everything back together still won't start maybe a little worse now, I know it's getting fuel cause there's pressure in the bowl when I try to take it off, there's a new icp valve, cps, new fuel filter and new sending unit, the hpop is topped off. Also I noticed when I went to change the ipr the wires on the plug were bare and touching so I addressed that, I don't know what else it could be?
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Alright. 99 Ford F-250 4x4 Ext Cab 287,000 miles. I know she is getting a little long in the tooth but this issue is new within the last month. It does seem to be better when it has been plugged in. On start up I smoke out the neighborhood. Blueish/White smoke, also sounds like it's missing on a couple injectors. Doesn't matter if you cycle the glowplugs a good long time. No luck. Glow plugs are 1 1/2 years old along with injector o rings. Only thing new is I changed from Rotella T-6 to Delo 5W40 Syn, but it was doing it before the switch as well. I tested my glowplugs relay and that is working fine. Could I have lost a UVCH? Fuel filter six months ago or so.
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I'm having issues with my girlfriends truck turning over. It won't turn over at all. I'm not getting any power to the small wire on the relay on the passenger fender or the red wire with a blue stripe off the ignition module.
I've cleaned and tested the batteries and the terminals. I've replaced the ignition switch the ignition module the starter and the starter relay on the passenger fender and I've also checked the neutral safety switch. I've checked all the fuses and relays also.
It's a 2000 Ford 7.3l automatic.
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I have a '99 F250, 7.3, CCSB with just over 127K on the clock. I went out of town for 10 days and was ready to get out of the grocery getter and into my truck. I hop in and it cranks great but would not start. I pop the hood and start with the easy stuff. Made sure all plugs/connections were good, check. Relays and fuses are still in good order (under hood and dash), check. Fuel pump was replaced less than a month ago (works great) with fuel in fuel bowl (new filter), check. Try to start a few more times with no luck, so I tinkered around for few more minutes and it starts right up and drives perfect.
Drive around, truck is on and off as usual throughout the day and go back to work next day around 10:30. Truck starts as normal. Get to work and have to run out but truck doesn't start again. After key is in on position for 15-20 minutes while checking fuses and such it starts up and runs perfect. I drive around for 20 minutes and return. I got off about 5 hours later and it doesn't start. Leave key in on position while I'm explaining issues to a buddy again 15-20 while key is on it starts right up. I drive home and park and I haven't been able to start it since.
From reading forums and watching you tube I'm leaning towards IPV or CPS but no one has described the problem as I've had. I do not have monitors, tuner, or anything aftermarket but I'm a mechanic and have a descent set of tools at home.
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I have a 2000 f250 7.3 with about 230,000 miles on it. So I filled my truck up to go out of town got on my way drove about 50 miles and the next stop I made the truck shut off and would not start again. I figured CPS went out again! nope changed it still not start. So check the fuel pump seemed fine was getting diesel. Checked oil, was a little low so i topped it off nothing. So i left the truck over night and came back on sunday still nothing. I finally got it started with a shot of quick start i know its not good but i had to get this Truck home. I drove and made it almost home took my foot off the pedal and it stalled again so i pulled it home. Had a guy go over and scan it and it says the oil pressure is at 30 psi when cranking so he says the hpop is probably bad.
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I have a 1999 f250 7.3 psd. it cranks and will not start, it use to crank for a bit of time and then start and now it refuses to start. If I leave the key in start position for like 30 seconds it use start and now it wont. I am thinking it is something with the glow plugs?
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My 2003 7.3 f250 has trouble starting whenever the temperature is less than 65 degrees. If it is less than 50 degrees I have to plug it in for it to start. Once it starts it runs rough. I let it warm up and it still runs rough. Once I start down the road I'll get on it a bit and it takes off like something lets loose. It then runs geat for the rest of the day but does seem to still crank a little more than it should when I restart it through out the day.
The pickup has 152000k
List of repairs I have done to the truck:
-new gpr
-new glow plugs
-new uvch both sides
-new valve cover gaskets
-new blue cps
-new fuel filter
-new batteries everstart maxx 65n
The truck has an afe air intake, straight exhaust, and a super chips tuner set on mileage saving. It blows white smoke when first started but clears up pretty quick.
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I replaced the glow plugs and gpr and the truck won't start. I'm also having to replace the water fuel separator. What is going on? 1999 F250 7.3l ....
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But it starts. '99 F250 PS. Had code P1670, cleared it. No other codes. Started truck back up and ran KOER test with AE(which I'm not very good with). The code did not come back. It is hard to start plugged in cold or warmed up. I have WTS light and it goes out(glow plugs are original). RPMs are slow to come up (almost starts before it kicks in). Doesn't matter if fuel tank is full or not. Oil level is fine. Batteries are charged and check good. Starter checks out ok. Buzz test was ok. Now when I run KOER do I need to do anything other than hitting the initiate button?
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