While driving my 99 F350 7.3 it died and I was lucky enough to coast home. No WTS light, no tach movement when cranking, no fuel pump, no CEL, Cranks great but no smoke or fire. New CPS & PCM still no lights or tach. Moved relays checked all fuses. WTF is wrong?
View 14 RepliesI have a '99 F250, 7.3, CCSB with just over 127K on the clock. I went out of town for 10 days and was ready to get out of the grocery getter and into my truck. I hop in and it cranks great but would not start. I pop the hood and start with the easy stuff. Made sure all plugs/connections were good, check. Relays and fuses are still in good order (under hood and dash), check. Fuel pump was replaced less than a month ago (works great) with fuel in fuel bowl (new filter), check. Try to start a few more times with no luck, so I tinkered around for few more minutes and it starts right up and drives perfect.
Drive around, truck is on and off as usual throughout the day and go back to work next day around 10:30. Truck starts as normal. Get to work and have to run out but truck doesn't start again. After key is in on position for 15-20 minutes while checking fuses and such it starts up and runs perfect. I drive around for 20 minutes and return. I got off about 5 hours later and it doesn't start. Leave key in on position while I'm explaining issues to a buddy again 15-20 while key is on it starts right up. I drive home and park and I haven't been able to start it since.
From reading forums and watching you tube I'm leaning towards IPV or CPS but no one has described the problem as I've had. I do not have monitors, tuner, or anything aftermarket but I'm a mechanic and have a descent set of tools at home.
I am having trouble getting my 2000 7.3 (200k) to start on the colder mornings. It will crank over fast, but won't start without a lot of tries. Today it took 6 pre-heats and cranks, but on others (and colder days) it has started easier. It does seem to be getting worse though.
I have replaced the glow plug relay recently so it *shouldn't* be that unless the replacement is fried. Starts fine the rest of the day and drives fine, but not in the cooler am (it was about 34 this morning). I also tested the batteries yesterday and while they aren't new, they tested okay.
Also, I read (briefly) about the CPS, but forgot to watch the tach this morning, but did notice it is pushing smoke out when turning over.
2002 7.3 Power Stroke... I bought the truck about 4 months ago and I absolutely love it but over the last few weeks is has been acting funny at times, it doesn't do it all the time but it has been getting progressively worse, ill drive the truck all day and no problems when I shut it off and go to start it again it just cranks but won't fire.
* Batteries are charged and in good condition, oil is a little dirty but full, I have no codes or check engine light on, and my wait to start light seems to be working fine!
* If I supply a fuel source(starting fluid) the truck will fire but not stay running
* And let it sit for 15 to 45 minutes fires right up like there was never an issue.
* There are no blown fuses
I have a 99 F450 bucket truck. I was up in the bucket when the engine died suddenly. It turns over but won't fire. I have no dash warning lights now either but everything else seems to be working. Lights, radio, annoying beeping sound from the key left in the ignition, etc. There are roughly 5 or 6 fuses in the panel to the lower left of the steering column that don't have power to them. Are they all supposed to have power when the ignition is on? I checked the fuse panel under the hood and all of the fuses that have 12V to them are good. There are a few small ones that don't have power to them but I don't think they do all the time.
View 9 RepliesMy dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil.
I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
I just replaced my up pipes, turbo pedestal O-ring, ICP, IPR, New O-rings in all my injectors and torqued to spec, new glow plugs, glow plug relay, oil loom wiring harness, new O-rings on oil cooler, oil filter, oil, and antifreeze. I have tried and tried on upwards of 75 or so time to get it to turn over. A little white smoke came out and it sounded like it wanted to fire up, but only a few times.
I have good batteries and a charger on it, 3-4 tries in 5-10 second bursts or longer if it doesn't lose power every 30 -hr. oil is in HPOP too. just found out my block heater is dead, but I shouldn't need it now. Tach moves a little when I crank it but only when my oil pressure gauge hits half way and that about the time it wants to start and starts white smoking.
2001 F-350 7.3 auto 2wd 4dr longbed 329,611 ml
The night temperture was only about 37 degrees. But every morning my 2000 F-350 7.3 crew cab 188,000 on it would not start. The first try there would be a split second where the motor would fire, but that would be it. I had to plug the engine block heater into my generator for at least an hour before it would start. I don't see how all the glow plugs could be bad at once??
View 14 RepliesMy '99 f350 lost a lot of power the other day, turned out the the injector harness got unplugged. So I swapped those out for oem ones, ohm tested the uvch and injector harness, put a brand new GPR, and still nothing. Cranks over but won't start, what else could it be?
View 5 RepliesMy one owner 2001 7.3l F350 w/ 265K miles died a few days ago at a traffic light. First time it has ever died on me other than a CPS. This dying was an almost instantaneous with no CEL light, unlike the CPS's hiccuping and dash light up. I put it in park and it started right back up like normal. I continued about my errands and made it home. I have since driven it two more times the same distance and it has not died.
What I have done on this truck the past year.
-Replaced ICP -3/14
-Rebuilt IPR and checked IPR plug -6/14
-Replaced fuel filter every 7500 miles and I am probably due another one of those now
-Replaced air filter - 4/15
-Cleaned out both the sensor and the exhaust back pressure tube
-replaced CPS w/ dark blue unit from RiffRaff in -8/14
-checked main harness over driver valve cover and placed a piece of heavy duty wire cover wrap where they touch the valve cover -8/14
UVWH replace in 2008
Have a new IPR and pigtail coming just because I wanted to eliminate a bad solenoid on it. I also have a Torque Pro w/ blue tooth adapter on an LG tablet that I have yet to set up....but am working on it Will the truck throw any codes if the CEL didn't light up?
I have a 2002 f350 dually with a 7.3 and 197k. At 186k it died while driving and I had it towed home. As soon as the tow truck dropped it the truck fired right up like nothing was wrong. Then it died again 2 days later. I replaced the cps, but the fix was replacing the icp and pigtail. Now it is doing the same thing again. It died on my wife while driving yesterday, i had it towed to the dealership I work at and it started and ran for about 2 hours with no issues.
I hooked up the factory IDS and had a diesel tech look at it with me. The oil pressure, injector circuit and injectors, and IPR all look good. The batteries were a little weak so i replaced both of them. I drove it home yesterday, about 10 miles, and drove it around town today. Then i tried to jump start my 96 bronco and after about 10 minutes of running it sort of hick uped then 5 minutes later it died and would not start. I let it set for 30 minutes and it started and died after about a minute.
I have been having problems with my truck for about 6 months now. It start in Sept when my fuel pump went. I got a new pump and went to change it just to have the back clip break off. I fixed the line after getting 2nd degree burns from the boiling water I had to use to expand the line and installed the new fuel pump. Didn't fix anything.
At this point is was dropping below freezing every night ( I live in Canada in the mountains) so I thought it might be my plug relay again... changed that. After that my started has always missed so I figured I would change it out and sure enough the power bolt on the starter was broken. Changed it.
Then it started smoking and I read up on the quarter trick so I figured why not try that. I checked everything and they all checked fine but I am a glutton for punishment and figured I would do that valve cover gasket. So opened it up to find one of my glow plug wires on my harness was burnt up. I have a spare truck for parts so I grabbed the wire and replaced it. Still no change.
Today it was spitting out the usually raw diesel that I have gotten use to but when I was opening the gate to get a manlift for work I smelt oil just to find my turbo coved and the V had a small pool of oil happening there. I added 4L of oil and tightened up my valve cover back bolt on the passenger side... it may have fixed the leak but didn't have time to check.
I backed up to the manlift and it lagged a bit so I gave it a pump of the peddle and it died. Now it won't start. Charged batteries and tried after it cooled down but still no go.
In short my truck has been smoking for about 4 months now. It shutters at low RPM and stalls at the bottom of hills if I gear down on the hill (we have really steep hills around here). I have changed my oil three times in the last 6 months but it keeps coming out black (which it always has). No water in fuel or oil. Once and awhile it had problems starting when it was warm but after bellowing out massive amounts of smoke it would start. The truck turns over but wont start. There is no power where it died so I have to come home and charge the batteries every time they get low but even after it cooled down it still wouldn't start.
I have a 2002 f350 dually with a 7.3 and 197k. At 186k it died while driving and I had it towed home. As soon as the tow truck dropped it the truck fired right up like nothing was wrong. Then it died again 2 days later. I replaced the cps, but the fix was replacing the icp and pigtail. Now it is doing the same thing again. It died on my wife while driving yesterday, i had it towed to the dealership I work at and it started and ran for about 2 hours with no issues.
I hooked up the factory IDS and had a diesel tech look at it with me. The oil pressure, injector circuit and injectors, and IPR all look good. The batteries were a little weak so i replaced both of them. I drove it home yesterday, about 10 miles, and drove it around town today. Then i tried to jump start my 96 bronco and after about 10 minutes of running it sort of hick uped then 5 minutes later it died and would not start. I let it set for 30 minutes and it started and died after about a minute.
I have an issue with my 2001 f350 7.3 PSD. Intermittently it will not start. It will crank really quick, but will not even try to start. I think it is not getting fuel. There are no CEL codes and I have a WTS light and the tach is moving while cranking. I hear a clicking/buzzing sound coming from under te center opf the dash. When I hear that sound it will not start. checked fuses and relays and it started before. not sure if removing the fue made whatever reset. this has happened a couple times. Now it will not reset. When I remove the number #24 fuse under the hood, the clicking stops. when i crank it, but still doesn't start. When it starts in runs perfect. Drained the batteries trying to trouble shoot, but have them charger now.
View 14 Replies It's a 99 f350 7.3 diesel powerstroke. About 180k miles I think.
It cranks fine. I just changed the glow plugs(all were dead) but when you try and start from cold, it takes about 7-10 seconds to fire. The oil res is full, tried disconnecting the EOP sensor, still fires up and takes just as long. There is one near the oil filter, and that seems to not be it either.
Doesn't smoke, no oil leaks that I know of. Not sure what else to check before sending it to another shop to get put on a diagnostics machine. I read about the IPR, but it has no problems when running. Only problem is a very long time to start. Also changed the fuel filter.
2001 F350 7.3 ... Below 35 degrees, truck is hard to start. Cranks for a while, sputters, dies. Repeat a couple times, finally starts running rough, surging and loping for 10-15 seconds before it settles down and runs smoothly. Recently had all glow plugs replaced. Next cold start didn't show much improvement (not as bad as sometimes, but wasn't very cold either).
Surfing here and other forums, I see suggestions about letting glow plugs heat longer after WTS light goes out. Some suggest as long as 60 seconds. In the past, I have tried waiting a little while longer after light goes out, or turning key off/on and letting it cycle again. But I've never really timed how long I was waiting.
We're having a warm spell right now, so I can't do much testing. But yesterday morning was about 30. I timed the WTS light and it went out after 10 seconds. I waited another 20 seconds.. about 30 seconds total. Starting seemed a little better than usual, and there was about 1 second of roughness before it settled down.
I need to do more cold weather testing to be sure, but it does seem like it might be better to wait longer than I have been.
On the other end of the scale, I saw a comment that glow plug cycle is dependent on oil temp, and they don't come on at all if oil temp is above 40. Is this correct? If so, is there any good reason to wait to start in warm weather? I'm usually pretty diligent about waiting for the light regardless of weather, but the truck doesn't seem to object if I get impatient and start it sooner in warm weather. If the glow plugs aren't even on, why wait?
Should I just totally ignore the light, and wait for some interval (or not at all) based on a semi-educated guess about how much glow plug time might be necessary for the current temp?
I have a 2003 F250CC 7.3 with 200,000 miles on it. I just purchased this truck about a month ago. My question is it blows black smoke. A little at idle but mostly when you give it any pedal. I have replaced all of the injector o rings and that didn't make a difference. Then I had it tested and it failed a CCT test on #2 cylinder. I have an injector to put in it, but am curious to find out if 1 bad injector would be enough to make it smoke all the time. I keep getting P1211 ICP pressure above desired. I had a friend of mine who used to work at a ford garage take a look at it with his computer and he said that everything looks good other than the CCT test.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 F-350 w/7.3. There was excessive smoke coming from the exhaust. So the first thing I did was to pull the glow plugs to see what they looked like. and while having them out I cranked the engine over. Upon doing so I noticed 1 cylinder putting fuel out of the hole. Meaning it was like you could put your hand about 6 inches above the hole and your hand would be wet from fuel. None of the other cylinders was like that. So what I did was pull the injector from the cylinder next to it and put it in to see if it was the injector failing. But it was still doing the same thing. What would cause this??
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 6.0 when it has having troubles trying to cut out when running low rpms but would throttle out of it then it lost all power cab filled with smoke and died now it does nothing won't even try to turn over everything under the hood is covered in soot I'm ready to pull the cab just wondering if I didn't loose any oil or coolant...
View 6 Replies2004 later year 6.0 F-350. 155,000 miles. All stock.
It will start and run fine. Drove it for an hour then began running rough. Nursed it back home. When idling it eventually died. It will eventually fire up but runs really bad. It has done this a few times. I've done fuel filters and 911 fuel treatment because thought it was gelling. No luck...
It has injector circuit fault codes that pop up. Only other code is MAF sensor low but in range. First it was codes for cylinders 3,5. Then 3,5,8. Then 1,3,5,8. Now just injector 1. Keeps changing as I refresh. Battery power fine. FICM is 47.5- 48volts and in sync. ICP at idle is 600-700psi. IPR is 25%.
We had a problem with blowing turbo pipe off so may be overboosting. Not sure. No code thrown relating to that. Possible wire chafing? Maybe bad tank of fuel? Not sure where to turn at this point.
Had to change the UVC harness on my 2001 7.3. Truck fell out. Trailered it home and changed the UVC harness on the passenger side. Truck is running great, but now the OD light is flashing. Can't read transmission codes, but was wondering if something from the bad harness could have caused this? Any thoughts?
View 7 Replies