I am losing a small amount of antifreeze, about a cup every thousand miles, so I have to consistently add antifreeze. When i remove the oil fill cap, I have a small orange ring leading me to assume the loss is into the engine.
Dealer pressure tested system and told me everything was good, could not find a problem, which I think is likely not correct. How to proceed?
What I know the truck was running normal except if I stomped the gas pedal and let off it would not respond again until I shut off keys and restarted this was a month ago now the truck sounds like it has a lope tune.
When I hit the gas pedal it blows white smoke and if I press the gas while idling or driving it floods out I did the spray bottle test on manifolds the drivers side was plenty hot the passenger side is cold you literally can touch while it's running.
The truck sounds like it's only running on 4 cylinders it has gotten so bad I parked the truck. Also this truck always had poor mpg 8 to be exact city hwy and towing nothing changed the mpg at all it used to blow out wet soot that would fall down on the truck and anyone standing near it.
Mods unknown pcu program 4in straight pipe with 12in stack harpoon mod in tank
2011 Super Duty, SB, 6.7, Lariat, SuperCab, FX4 Undercover hard bed cover, Ford bed mat, and mud flaps.Traded a 2003 Expedition with 100k miles on it. It was time for a new tow vehicle, I tow a 30 foot travel trailer.(7000 to 8000lbs) The dealer offered me a deal at invoice plus all of Ford's incentives, so I couldn't refuse.
I have about 1300 miles on it and it runs fine. I have been noticing a wet spot under the right front of the truck, checking today it looks like anti freeze leaking from above the air condition pump. It makes about a 3 inch diameter wet spot, the fluid recovery bottles are still at the correct cold coolant level. I couldn't get my hand in that space to find where it is leaking from.
2002 7.3, losing coolant. Occasional whiff of antifreeze, not in oil. I use my truck to tow a food trailer that's only about 4500lbs, some highway, most city driving. 173K clicks, bout Jan 2016 with 130K, first time this has happened...
View 9 Repliesreplaced heater core because when pulling a trailer it would admit steam out the defrost vents and the smell of antifreeze, what it could be?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford F-350 super duty 6.0. A few weeks ago it starting loosing power, it wouldn't even go up to 15 mph. It now won't even move. There is 0 power. When I press the gas the motor bogs down to a very low idle and wants to die. I also had recent trouble with it starting. It would wind up to a very very low idle and about a minute later it would crank up to full idle. I changed the fuel filters (on top of the engine and under the cab) and also changed the fuel pump under the cab. After that I still have no power when pressing the gas it will still act like it wants to die.
View 14 RepliesMy front brakes have never been right in this car. Rotors go bad within a few thousand miles of being replaced. I don't drive fast or anything like that. After years of paying for new rotors at every brake job with Firestone, I decided to do it myself. I put new rotors and pads on a year ago and they went bad in a few months - they feel warped again. I took the rotors off and took them to O'Reilly to get them turned but a micrometer revealed they're not warped, just showing uneven pad wear. The tech said maybe I have a bad caliper. When I did the brake job nothing seemed wrong; both pistons went back into the calipers without issue. Now I'm thinking about replacing both front calipers and pads, but I don't want to waste more money. How do I tell if the calipers are bad and if they are can I fix or replace?
View 19 Replies2000 f-350 cc srw 4x4 lb. Added a 4inch diamond eye and sct programmer 2 years ago. When I bought it 4 years ago no oil leaks. Last year had a small leak 1 qt every 3000mi. Went camping tuesday when we got there 1 Gallon low and a camper covered in oil. On the way home used 2 more gallons and topped it off with another gallon before parking. Checked the dip stick tube connection no luck.
Cleaned top off with simple green and garden hose finding the drain hole in the back clogged and valley full of oil. Got the front half clean and checked for leaks and found none front valley is still clean.
Had the wife run it up to 2000 rpm for a minute when she let off the throttle and when it slowed got a 3 second stream of oil from the cover at the back of the oil pan. CEL came on code 1280 found oil in the ICP plug ( will order that with orings and tool for hpop for preventative). Removed the air crossover to the turbo and still oil in the back half cleaned it all out and drying now.
Checked the plugs at the back of the engine and they are clean. Where should I look for the leak to be at?
I made the plunge and picked up a 02 f250 with 7.3. 200000 miles runs and shifts smooth. Just a little rust issues I need to fix before they get bad. Figured I'd stop in ....
View 9 RepliesDiesel smell in cab. 2000 F350 7.3 158K on the clock. Just noticed it 3 days ago. Been meaning to address the passenger side fuel line clamp issue. Learned about that one here. Gonna tear the stuff out to get at that one Tuesday. Replacing the clamp. Hope the fuel line is not already compromised.
View 9 RepliesJust joined today, I have a 2003 550 7.3. New HPOP, 3 new injectors, new seals on others, new fuel pressure regulator, new fuel pump, sending unit mod to eliminate filters. 733 HPOP pressure, 65 fuel pressure at idle. Truck runs out of fuel pressure after its warmed up and driven about 20 miles. Haven't checked voltage at pump while driving. I had taken it to a seasoned tech of 20 years and he had replaced HPOP and 2 injectors and it does start better but problem is still there.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 F250 with a 6 liter diesel I got about a hundred sixty thousand miles on it I've had it bullet-proofed haven't had too many problems with it I thought the fuel pump went out yesterday so I replaced it drove fine for a few hours then it started losing power and like it wasn't getting fuel and died I got it home took a test light and check for power at the fuel pump I don't have any positive or negative power ran a hot wire and a ground straight from the battery and hooked it up to the pump and it worked but when I plug the factory wiring back into it and turn the key on I don't have any power I checked the fuses they're fine...
View 6 RepliesJust got a look at my 03' 6.0 turbo at Ford dealer. Truck still had boost but a real bad noise that was hard to describe. Pulled codes but no turbo code like the last turbo's. All the vanes were fine & no rust on the unison ring BUT the turbo shaft was broken. 3rd turbo went at 13,700 miles in July 2005 & now have 47,700 miles. I know I should drive it more but at 75 & having sold my boat it does't get driven to much.
I use Stanadyne with every tank full & drive it hard at least once every week to give the turo a workout. Use only Motorcraft oil every 3500 miles. Broken shaft on turbo would move about a 1/4 " on one end & a 1/2" on the other end. Ford service said they have seen shafts break before but said it was nothing I did to cause it.
I have a 2013 F350. Since it was new in August the turbo has made a chattering sound that sounds to me like the waste gate (if it had one) is opening and closing rapidly. Almost like its building boost and dumping it over and over again. Usually happens when it is in 6th gear around 1700 rpm under light load. It also does it from time to time while plowing snow. You can power through it or let off and it will go away. My local dealer where it was bought new put a new turbo on it and the problem still persists. The truck just turned over 8k miles and has been in several times in attempt to resolve the issue. They say that there are no codes on the truck nor does Ford have anything on their service web. My dealer claims that no one has ever had the issue.
View 14 RepliesI LOVE my Super Duty and with only 15k on it (have a company truck) plan on keeping it for a long time. I've had an EGR Delete and new Oil Cooler along with some misc things done to the engine and turbo, about 6g's worth. Now my mechanic at NCB is telling me that the reason I'm loosing coolant is that my head gaskets are leaking. I'm looking at another 5-7 grand which is a no go for me. I'm thinking of doing the work myself, especially since I've seen where i don't have to remove the body to do it.
Okay, here is the question, I've been having a hard time finding a comprehensive list of the parts I should be getting to do the job. Looking for a list or link on what I need to do it correctly and anything I might want to do while my engine is apart so I don't have to do this again?
This is a common problem. Mine goes to dealer in the morning for it. I haven't seen any recent posts within the last year on this. Did ford ever find a fix for my problem? When going up hill at low rpms I lose boost and hear the stutter out the intake..
View 14 RepliesTruck was throwing that collect temp different than oil temp light then started to heat. When I drove temp went down. When I stopped I checked coolant t as low and left orange rust dust around and under overflow I have topped off but can't find a leak. I clean it and it comes back I have a leak somewhere? Head gasket? But oil is fine I drive my truck 200 miles no issues?
View 14 RepliesI have a Golf 1.8 t 2003 and when the car reaches 4000 rpm on 3rd gear it starts sputtering and can't go above that rpm. it sputters a bit on 2nd gear but at about 5000 rpm but it keeps accelerating. I couldn't try the other gears because i don't have a suitable to reach those speeds (traffic laws speed limits). I have noticed a slight tear on the connection between the hose from the air filter and the T hose. could that be the problem.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2011 Ford F-350 with 6.7L I have had cooling issues when pulling a trailer up a grade it heats up where it hadn't in the past. I had it in the shop 4 times before it went out of warranty and they changed the oil cooler and thermostat. The last time it was in the shop was November which it was to cold out to duplicate problem. It's heating up on just about every grade and now it's out of warranty when it should have been fixed last year.
I'm guessing it's the water pump because when I changed the antifreeze there was metal shavings in it. I told my dealer about it and they said it was probably from manufacturing. I haven't called dealer yet because I think it should be covered under warranty since the problem was never fixed after being in the shop last year!
I have an 2007 6.0 turbo diesel with approximately 120,000 miles. I have not done any work on the truck other than change the oil and fuel filters the last 9 years. Lately the check engine light came on and every now and then I can smell antifreeze in the air vents coming out. What may be causing this? I am looking to upgrade for more power and do a few things to the engine to make it bulletproof. I have heard something about and EGR bypass or something that I need to do. Not sure I fully understand it and what does it fix or what it will cost me. I have also heard something about head gaskets and head bolts. I may do the work myself if its not too complicated. What all needs to be done on this engine to make sure it stays strong for years to come. What is the best engine tuner/chip for more power?
View 14 RepliesLast November I forgot to plug my truck in and it got down to 0, my girlfriend tried unsuccessfully to jump start it. When I got home I jumped it and got it running. I took it down to a heated shop to troubleshoot the glow plug circuit. I discovered it was not getting 12v to the glow plug relay. Also I started it and tried to back it up in the shop, when put in reverse it killed the engine, not lugged it down it was like you shut the switch off.
Also I discovered if you turn the lights on it kills the engine immediately. It will not crank with the lights on either. So far I have replaced the computer,ignition switch,batteries, and cam positioning sensor. Now comes the weird part!! I decided to get it running and pull the bulbs out of the back up lights I pulled the drivers bulb first then the passengers side bulb. When I pulled the passengers side bulb it killed the engine.
It is not my daily driver so it still sits in my shop. I have a hunch it's a ground issue but I've checked and cleaned up all the grounds I can find and it still has the problem.