Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Low Batteries - Headlights Dimming / Brightening With Acceleration
Jan 10, 2016
So I have noticed that my Batteries have been low each time my truck sits. Also my headlights have been dimming/brightening with acceleration. So I thought my Batteries were going bad. So I did some tests, I let my truck sit over night and tested the Batteries before starting they both were around 11 volts. @ idle no load 12.3, with load 11.7. @ 1500 RPM 14volts. With this I went to autozone and had the Batteries tested and the guy said that they are good but need to be charged and that the alternator was not charging right causing the low Batteries. The Batteries are about 3 years old. So now Im not sure what to do.
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Thought batteries were bad and replaced batteries truck started and ran. Shut it off and went to restart 30 minutes later and had no power what so ever like no batteries were in it. Put new batteries on charger the were full so hooked batteries back up and it starts. 10 minutes later same as before like there was no batteries in it. 2001 7.3 464,000 miles
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Got two brand-new Motorcraft batteries installed about a month ago and truck has been cranking great. However, the last couple days in the mornings the truck is starting slow and dragging as if the batteries are going bad. It does crank pretty quick but just has a noticeable starter drag now. Since I have no way of diagnosing the batteries with a tester over the holidays.
What are the odds that brand new batteries are going bad? I was thinking this is a starter issue since the drag is most prominent in the morning but it does it throughout the day while I'm driving driving on each start. But it's not as bad as the first start-up.
I hooked up a scan tool (Forscan and Dash Command) and the only trouble code I received that something to do with the turbo boost pressure fault, it was a code P1247. I don't see how a turbo boost pressure fault, low pressure, could have any starting related issues but you never know. Just a note this code only came up on my FORScan Lite app but it did not come up on the dash command app so I'm not sure if it's a legitimate code.
So I'm back to a battery or starter issue. Is there a way that I can check without much equipment to detect whether not I have a starter or battery problem. I do have a battery charger but no other equipment.
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Is there a mod that allows the headlights to stay off when the key is in the on position. 2001 F250....
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I have a 2003 F350 SD FWD Dually With 4.10 Axle Ratio. I'm looking for some front rotors and pads and I'm looking for recommendations. I tow a 44' Goose neck racing trailer on a regular basis so I dont want autozone crap rotors that are going to warp in a few thousand miles. I was on rockauto.com, they have Wagner, Bendix, Motocraft, Powerstop, etc etc. I thought maybe those Powerstop drilled and slotted looked interesting, but I dont know much about them.
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So was replacing my power steering pump get all done and my headlights start flickering and then stay on the switch is off it does have DRL on it but they have been unplugged for about 10 years what do I need to check
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On my way to work today it was raining so I turned my head lights on. All the dash warning lights came on and my truck had zero throttle response. I quickly turned my lights off. The truck went right back to normal. I turned my lights back on and nothing happened.
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Well a few days ago I pulled up to a gas station on my way to work for some coffee and since I leave for work before 6:30 AM my headlights were on. Well only the running lights were working. Well I shrug it off and later that night I come to the realization that both headlights weren't working. I tried the high beams and they do work. I also pulled both bulbs and both the filaments on each bulb seemed to be intact. What could cause this? I checked fuses 9 and 11 under the hood and they were both fine. I'm kinda at a loss right now.
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I own a 2000 7.3 6 speed with 175,000 miles. I just bought it less than a month ago and it is my first diesel.
About a week ago I stepped on the gas and it just had nothing. I have a TS 6 position chip that I unplugged as soon as I noticed the loss in power. When I first bought the truck it was incredibly fast and now it has nothing to it at all. I have to have it higher in the RPM's to go up hills (especially when its not warmed up). If I push the pedal down it will sound the same, boost will get to about 14 (without chip) and the truck doesn't let out any smoke but it just doesnt have any power at all. I recently towed another vehicle on a trailer and it really struggled with it, more than I thought a diesel should.
When the chip was in, the truck would let out black smoke even after I noticed the loss in power. That made me think that the engine was getting enough fuel. I thought there could be a boost leak somewhere but it still builds 14 psi. However, I do not feel boost kick in at all! When I first got the truck it would only build around 14-15 stock but it felt a hell of a lot faster and I could feel when boost would really kick in. I took off my intake and looked at the turbo and the fins are in great shape and there is little to no play.
What the problem could be? I don't have very much money to start dumping parts into the truck and Im not sure what to do. I guess my questions would be:
1) Is it a boost leak, fuel problem, or something else?
2) Could a gelled filter give me these problems?
3) What should I do and where should I start?
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A little background first on my 1999 Ford F350 7.3. A few months ago I noticed i had fuel in my coolant which lead me to a cracked injector cup. I replaced all 8 cups and since I had it apart, and I bought the truck used and didn't know what had been serviced, I replaced the injector o-rings, glow plugs, valve cover gaskets, and valve cover gasket wiring harnesses. Got it all back together and had been running great.
About a week ago I was parked with engine running and the stereo suddenly turned off. A few minutes later I turned the truck off and turned it back on about 10 minutes later and it wouldn't start. Batteries appeared dead so I jumped it and made it home. Took both batteries down to AutoZone and since they were under warranty got two new ones. Figured out my alternator was bad and not charging my batteries so I ordered a new one.
Up to this point truck has been running fine. Truck had sat in my driveway for the week while waiting for the alternator. While I was out of town my father in law went to use the truck and noticed it wouldn't start. He hooked some jumper cables up and got the truck started. He said as he drove off the truck had no power and smoke was pouring out the exhaust.
I charged the batteries and installed the new alternator. Truck starts great and seems to be idling normal. When I took it for a test drive it has no power when accelerating and black smoke pours out the exhaust. The truck will barely make it up any type of incline.
I thought maybe it was the injectors not firing. Wiring harnesses are plugged in and do not appear to be damaged. I did not remove the valve covers yet as it's not difficult but time consuming and I figured since I just replaced all of it that it should be ok. I did a buzz test and all injectors passed. I get no trouble codes or check engine light.
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I just put a regulated return system, two external filters and two fuel pumps, and I am still have problems.
Under acceleration driving it drops to almost 20 psi and that only 1/4 throttle.
3/4 throttle drops to 10 psi and barely idel. Died twice a block away from my house of test drives.
Tank is done with mods, new cps, icp, and ipr.
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I have a 2002 7.3 Excursion with DP Tuner. Truck has 167K on it. My check engine light came on when I was driving to work this morning. Stayed on for the ride home. Appeared to drive ok - a little rough - but it has been that way for a while. When I got home I plugged in the AutoEnginuity and this is what came up:
So it appears I have a glow plug issue. That does not surprise me as I have had some rough starts this past winter. On a whim I ran the Cylinder Contribution Test and it completed successfully. Yet when I started the truck again it completely falls on it's face when accelerating. Here is a link to a video: [URL] .....
It did this once about a month ago. I was driving to work and stopped at a light and when I tried to accelerate, it did this. I limped to a gas station a 100 yards away. I let it sit and started it up, drove home. Went in the house and did some googling and of course after I came back out, it worked fine. Has not done it since.
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Parked my truck and headlights wont shut off on there own like normally do after few seconds. That is the only issue with my vsm. Or maybe I have a gem? should i replace it now or wait. Also where to buy one if I need one?
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I just recently installed a CTS2 Insight and wondering what the typical boost pressures I should be seeing without a load just normal driving. Right now I am seeing mostly 0 unless under acceleration then it goes up to 10 psi if I floor it I am getting 15psi.
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So i replaced the faulty injector and the truck starts up great and runs great. The only issue is that now when i accelerate, the SES light comes on until i let it up a little. If i am at cruising speed or just a steady speed the light goes off. I havent checked for codes yet because the light didnt stay on. I have AE and know how to use most of it. Is there something i should be looking at? Could it have something to do with the Blue/Gray CPS i installed or maybe there could still be an air bubble in the oil rail from when i drained the rail ? I have a DP tuner and stage-1 injectors. Regardless it sure is nice to have my truck back out on the road. It was a horrible 3 weeks without it.
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I have owned several 7.3's and I have never encountered this issue. I recently picked up a 2001 7.3 with 200k miles on it. When I bought it I knew the glow plugs were going, I also knew it accelerated slow. I went ahead and replaced the plugs, valve gaskets, and added a heavy duty glow plug relay, along with an oil change, and fuel filter.
For some reason, the truck just dose not accelerate very fast at all, significantly slower than any 7.3l I have owned in the past. It appears that I shift at about 3000 rpms and it takes a while to get up to speed. I would like to get it mechanically sound before I restore the body. I was thinking it was the ebpv? but what else could it be?
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Started noticing a whooshing noise when I let off the accel pedal on my 2002 F250 7.3 powerstroke.
You can hear it best towards the end of this video: [URL] .....
What could this be?
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2002 F350 7.3, MANUAL transmission ZF6.
Bought this truck used for hauling an excavator, and after fixing damn-near everything engine/turbo/and-cooling-system-related ---- it's finally seeing some use.
Just recently started hauling 12,000lb payloads. When I accelerate hard in Low gear, and then shift into 1st and accelerate hard again, I feel the whole truck shuddering. It's like a shimmy-shaking vibration all through the vehicle.
It doesn't happen in higher gears, only when the following conditions are met...
1) Starting from a dead stop
2) 12,000lb payload (heavy)
3) Accelerating hard (Low, First gear)
I would also like to add that I experienced this shuddering vibration very intensely when I put the transfer case in 4wd LOW (front manual hubs left unlocked) and towed 14,000lb up a steep hill in 1st, 2nd, and then 3rd transmission gears.
^^^ By leaving front hubs unlocked and transfer case in 4wd LOW, I was effectively lowering my final drive ratio even more for extra pulling power in 2wd hill-climbing. I don't do this often, only when absolutely necessary. ^^^
I must also add that I do have slightly taller rims/tires than OEM ford WITH the original ford gearing (3.73) so I'm more like 3.51 final drive ratio.
02 F350 7.3l ZF6
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2001 f350. 7.3 has 350k on the engine. Last week it cut out and stalled it was about 15 degrees and though.. fuel had jeld... it warmed up.. didn't happen again. Then two night ago.. happened 4 times in a row then it was fine. yesterday a dozen times at least. It stalls but restarts itself (roll starting i guess) the water in fuel ,CEL and wait to start lights come on and then go off. We started with fuel filter, have changed the cam position sensor (yes with ford part not part stores) and now have also changed the Injection pressure sensor (also with ford part) while it needed changed as it was leaking oil the truck is Still stalling.
My dad is a technician He hooked his computer to the truck.. nothing. He was able to get the truck to recreate the problem with the scanner hooked up. When it stalls if he holds the throttle down the truck stays at an idle and the CEL, wait to start and water in fuel lights are on. It decelerates and puts along as nice as you please with the fuel peddle to the floor! let off the accelerator, lights go off and it recognizes the throttle again. No codes at all. hes thinking its the pcm telling the icp to shut off fuel. What would cause it to do that?
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Ok, my clutch has been giving me trouble for a little bit and I'm almost positive that I have a bent release fork. It also slips under heavy acceleration in 6th gear. I am planning on doing a clutch, compete with flywheel and release fork and a new rear main seal. My problem is, here within the last couple of days the trans would pop out of 4th gear if I was just coasting. It has been getting noisy over the last few weeks also. I'm no manual tyranny expert, but this is making me think I'm gonna need to have it rebuilt.
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My 2002 f350 7.3 was given to me in July of this past year. I was 15 at the time and I was told that it was hydrolocked. Funny enough this is where I came to learn how to fix it, and this is the first time I have had to ask a question . I pulled both heads and replaced all 8 injector cups, I also had the heads re surfaced and had 7 injectors rebuilt and 1 replaced. I got it on the road in February around the 20th and since then I have put about 300 miles on it. Today I stopped at a red light and made a left turn and as I went to accelerate the truck jolted forward a few times and it felt like a tire was going to fall off while accelerating(only to 30mph). I pulled into a driveway to check all the tires, then I turned around and my foot was hard to the floor and the truck wouldn't go over 15. Diddn't smoke when it first happened, but after getting it off of a flatbed I turned it around and it hardly had enough power to get up my driveway. And I noticed it was pushing a steady stream of white smoke, the oil is clean and the oil cap doesn't get blown off at idle when I set it upside down on the valve cover.
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