Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Misfire Code P1316 / Smokes Bad If Rev It
Jan 3, 2017
I have a 03 7.3 runs like crap. buzz test says cyl 2 and 4 have high to low side open. the only code that's hard is p1316. it also says cyl 1-3-4 fail balance test but not always some times only 2 fail.... I ohm tested injectors all the way to the idm and all are between 3.1 and 4.2 ish. So I guess I can rule out wiring. it smokes pretty bad if I rev it. it was running good till I parked it for 2 days. I did put HSS in oil 2 weeks ago to try clean out little rough acceleration. I did find my ipr nut fell off and spacer ipr was just floating around on the shaft I put that back together it was laying there.
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What do I do? Do I need a new IDM?
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Wife put fuel in my truck drove it home and as soon as I started it back up it was running rough as hell. When I got to the freeway it got real rough at 1500 rpms in overdrive. If I bring it up over 2000rpm it's better but still feels rough. When I got off work and started it up I got the p1316 code.
I did some research tested plugs on the valve covers a few pins were over 5ohms so pulled the valve covers did the 50cent mod to shimm the under valve cover wiring harness. All pins are around 3.5 ohms. It did not fix the problem.
I then dropped the tank thinking maybe the pick up was gunked up. I've read all the horror stories about the delamination in Ford tanks. Good news is that I have a plastic fuel tank. Bad news is the screens though dirty weren't dirty enough to cause my problems. Where should I go from here?
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Here's the story. Truck has showed no signs of rough running. Wife drives truck around town. Truck up to temperature and doing fine on a 90 degree day. Stops at red light. Makes left turn engine light comes on truck seems to be running on 4 cylinders. Pulls over light goes off engine idles perfect. Pulls back on road light on no power. Gets truck to a local friends house lets it sit til I get off work.
I check for codes get p1316. Drive truck toward my house no problems for 4-5 miles then does the above with me. Limp it home. I know it is pointing at a wire problem to injectors and or IDM. Did a buzz test passed fine. Plan on pulling valve covers and looking for the usuall things. Any thing I am missing? What will a kOEO test tell me? Should I run one? How common is IDM to go out? One last thing just put a rebuilt transmission in it 3 days ago may be unrelated it seems to be doing fine.
2003 f-350 cc 7.3.
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Just a heads up when it comes to this code. Today at work I was working on a 2000 f350 that the driver neglected on telling me he had a CEL on and truck was kind of sluggish (drivers are idiots they cant tell the difference) but no miss or any sign of problem except the CEL (he had electrical tape on the cluster. Well I put my AE to see the vitals and immediately code p1316, so I went to do a buzz test revealing that cylinder 1,3,5,7,6 were short to open circuit (forgot the codes) but they all sounded healthy. My next step since it was a quick and easy to do was to check the passenger side uvch to see for burnt pins and what not but everything checked out.
Checked the driver side #6 cyl for the same problem bit a no go. I ohm tested the injectors all of them checked out, wires all the way to the idm checked out so at this point I was in my atemp to see what the hell was going on I decided to install my obs idm on, and guess what happened next it worked immediately the sel did not come up and when I test drove it, my god it felt like a new truck.
Just a side note the idm, had no sign of water damage, and like mentioned to the untrained person most would not tell the difference on how it ran. To anybody that has checked and can't find the problem make sure you really and I mean really check your IDM really good.
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I keep getting my SES light coming on in the morning when my engine is cold. I'm getting code p0603 and p1316. I was told the first one is just from using my tuner. The second code is the injector driver module, just trying to figure out what is causing it to throw the SES light only when cold.
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I'm running a 2000 f250 7.3. The truck has been stumbling for the last two years intermittently. I did the 50 cent mod last fall to the uvch's. Changed CPS, idm, air flow sensor. This last week it finally threw the p1316 code so I have something to go off of. Trucks falling on its face so I parked it. Tore it down last night. Ohm tested all the injectors last night cold and all read around 3ohms. Tested the uvch's and continuity looks good on both sides. Tested them through the valve cover seal, tested fine. Tested them through the first harness and fine. All I have left to check is all the way to the idm. Still no luck finding the problem.
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Well, truck is throwing me for a new loop the day I pick it up from the body shop (crazy, right?). I started out driving it and had a blue haze - I figured it had some air left in the system from doing my injectors so I left it and it cleared up after about 20 miles. I noticed that my SES light came on while idling at a stoplight, but went off when I took off. Figured it was a fluke and kept on getting on.
Well, next light it does the same thing - idle the light is on, take off the light is off. Reading the code yields P1316 - so I pull over and running a buzz test to fetch the IDM codes. Guess what? No codes. All sounded fine, so this is where I got really confused as I'm getting huge mixed signals from this truck suddenly.
As I got to watching my gauges, I noticed that I was idling around 10.8 IPRDC and 530-560 ICP, and when I would get about 16-18 IPRDC the code would go away. Did a near-WOT run when getting on interstate as a test to see how it'd do, and saw IPRDC get up to 98% - the highest I have EVER seen it get on this truck (no idea if it is related or not). I have a log from moving around the lot that I will try and upload soon.
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I have a 2000 Ford F550 7.3. I bought a Superchips programmer to read the codes on my truck and up pops this P1316, so I did some research and found out that the most common problem is the injector wiring harness. I bought new valve cover gaskets and the injector wiring as well because the truck is old and I figured new wires wouldn't hurt.
So after installing the new wiring harness and gaskets I'm still getting this Code! The truck idles rough and serge's sometimes, also there is a lack of power and some shaking between 40 and 50 miles per hour, however form 50 to 60 MPH seem's to be just fine. I don't trust the "Mechanic Shops" around here and will only take the truck in as a last resort.
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If the fuel relief valve is stuck open would it possibly throw a P1316 code?
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Recently I have had many problems with my 2000 7.3l .... The one I cant get rid of is the p1316 code. I have changed out the uvc harness and gasket with new ones, then removed valve cover's to double check connections again and they are fine. I am getting white smoke and the truck misses. I do not have a advanced reader for the codes just using my edge programmer. I have also disconnected the battery and cleared the code but it comes right back.
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Started my truck yesterday and drove about 1/4 of mile and all of a sudden I lost all power but was lucky enough to creep back home. Had a friend put it on a scanner and it spit out P1280 and P1316 codes. My truck will start and idle rough but has no throttle response and no power. I changed out the CPS and ICP and the problem still exists. I got an infrared thermometer and checked the heat coming off each manifold and the driver side was reading about 200 while the passenger side was reading about 75 while at idle. Pulled valve pan cover off the passenger side to check and see if the harness came loose and everything looked fine. So my question is do you think this could lead to a bad IDM?
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I've been battling this truck for over a month now and starting to go a little crazy, It's a 2001 f350 7.3L, with a "used" 7.3L engine from a 1997. Transferred all the necessary parts to make it happen. Keep getting the evil p1316 idm codes detected coming back upon start up. Anywhere between 5-30seconds after starting the left bank dies. I've gone threw and replaced the IDM with a reman unit. New valve cover gaskets (with new harness). even went the extra mile and put in a new power wire (for the driver side) running directly from the new valve cover into the IDM bypassing a connector above the left valve cover. All injectors are checking out around 3ohms. With glow plugs all around 1-2ohms. What's interesting about this is, I can disable any one of the injectors on the left bank (doesn't matter which one) and the engine runs great considering it's down on one cylinder. But when I hook up that last injector it will kill the whole left bank again.
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Ill start off with my mods and recent maintenance things I have done before fully describing the issue.
E99 7.3l with 190k on the clock
Full 5" turbo back
TS-6 chip
EGT, Boost and trans temp gauge
New ford glow plugs
Re-orings injectors
new valve cover gaskets
new fuel filter and fuel lines
new turbo with a ww2
Newer trans and oil pan
I think that should do it, now for my problem. The truck starts good cranks over once and is running with no hesitation, the engine run a little rough, more than normal vibration at idle almost like a small miss. No smoke at idle.
While driving with no/little load on the engine runs great , but under load there is a good amount of white smoke/ oil smell. The turbo is new and is not leaking oil I have already checked over that and the exhaust is new but there is some oil that is at the tail pipe in liquid form. The exhaust up pipe that goes to the turbo is not covered in oil either
The truck cruising in OD or in 3rd with O/D off around 2k rpms it shudders real bad almost like the truck is going to shake its self apart. but at like 2400 rpms and above its fine. Where is a good place to start the diagnosis as I am pretty new to the Diesel world. From what I've read it looks to be either rings are junk or maybe I have some bad injectors (thats what it feels like to me) but would that cause it to smoke like crazy?
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I have a 01 7.3 crew cab dually and it's had cold start problems since i got it in 09.I have replaced everything i could think of including glow plugs gpr,harness and batteries. Any temp below 40 i have to plug it in . If i cycle it 3 or 4 times it will start but it smokes and runs ruff. My 00 7.3 excursion starts up down to about 10 degrees than i have to plug it in so i know dually is not right.
I have a afe intake,1.5 injectors, driven diesel rr, adrenilin pump,dp tune by gear head. Kinda at wits end don't mind plugging it in in dead of winter but now one night it's 30 next it's50 and i don't have to . Also have fully built trans by level 10 if it matters .I get battery light coming on every now and again. New alt about every year and a half.
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ok so about a year ago and 7 thousand miles ago (abouts) I did a engine build and rebuild I had brand new injector cups, injectors (180/100's) and new o-rings......now I've got fuel in my coolant and smokes like a freight train in the mornings white/grey I believe (its dark) but never black smoke but not the smell of coolant like unburnt fuel truck starts up amazing at 10 degrees' when I had the machine shop building my heads for my stg 1 cam I had told them not to install my cups well they did anyways and used red locktite when I keep hearing and seeing recommended to use green and have used green in the past
I know most situations are cracked cup, cracked heads, my biggest question is ya think the red locktite will hold? And since the cups are new could it be a injector o-ring? dosent the fluids on the injector go botton to top (coolant-fuel-oil) and a bad oring mixing the two I did notice my fuel psi was sittin higher liker 75 psi iv lowerd it since then
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New to diesel trucks and wondered if this recurring code is a serious problem. I clear DTC and truck will run fine. Might stay off for 2 days or 2 months and same code comes back. Truck seems to run just fine even with service light on.
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Well, long story is that I starting have problems with my 2000 F350 Dually 7.3 PSD about 6 months ago ( ~10K miles ago ). I have sunk almost 5K$ in mechanics and the problem is still present.
By troubleshoot, I do not mean try this, try this, as that has been what is happening. I mean making test measurements and diagnostics. I am fairly mechanically inclined, but I am no mechanic. Looking for primers on how the 7.3 PSD works.
Symptoms: After the truck sits 12 to 14 hours, it starts and idles fine ( ~ 700 RPM on the 'Dash Tach' ) just as it has always done. During the first 5 miles of driving it, the SES light comes on and it sputters, stalls, and vibrates as if a couple of the injectors are not firing. It then clears up and the SES light goes out, except that it idles at about 1200 RPM ( 'Dash Tach' ).
It runs fine like this the rest of the day, If I shut it down it will start right up and run fine, but it has the high idles. Only if it is shut down longer than 12 to 16 hours do the symptoms, other than the high idle, reappear. The high idle is constant. Also mpg have fallen ( 13 opposed to 16 ).
It does not seem to be related to ambient temperature, or the amount of warm-up idle. I have idled it for three hours on startup and it is fine, until I drive the first 5 miles or so.
Now, I have had three mechanics work on it and they have replaced: the ICP sensor ( 3 times ), the Fuel filter ( twice ), drained, flushed and refilled the HPOP, replaced both sides of the valve cover wiring harness, put in a new IDM, fuel heater, CPS sensor ( 3 times ), fuel pump in fuel tank, EBPV ( not sure what this is ), and the last straw was saying the injectors needed to be replaced ( or at least the O-rings, but while we are in there you might as well ... ).
I bought a cheap code reader and it says: P1316 & P1211. I believe these are the same codes since day 1.
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I'm normally in the 7.3 forum, but a friend has a 2003 6.0 with a P2285. I get the impression that on the 03 and early 04 models, this code is nearly always a failed ICP sensor or the wiring leading to it. It also has a cylinder 5 misfire code, but I suspect that's a separate issue. I had the truck hooked up and the ICP held pretty much steady at 870 psi. I didn't look at ICP voltage, but I'm willing to bet it was probably 0v and the pressure reading was inferred and not actual.
Will a failed ICP sensor also cause the truck to have decreased power? Any tips to make the sensor easier to change, like a certain socket/ratchet combination or anything? Is it easier from the top, or bottom? I do have a lift . . .
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Am I looking at a faulty injector? No codes but in A.M she sure sounds like a mis fire( ?) then after warm up 2 mins later she is happy as a clam. What gives? I do use DK regularly. BTW the temp here in A.M is about 65...
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I started my truck this morning and drove it quarter of a mile down the road to get some food letting it idle while in the drive through. While pulling away from the drive through window it started idling ruff . I drove it to the hotel and it ran perfectly normal until at a stop light and it started skipping again. If I put it on high idle it really starts skipping. Above 1500rpm it stops. What do you think?
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