Last couple of days I've been chasing a small oil leak. Finally figured out it's coming from one of the hoses connected to the lower part of the hpop (hpop hose). Leak is coming from the fitting connected to the lower part of hpop. Do I need to replace the whole hose and fitting? Just the fitting? is there a replaceable washer or oring?
View 10 RepliesIn my motor build I'm replacing the HPOP fittings in the head. Do these need any sort of thread locker to secure?
View 2 RepliesDo I have to remove my fuel filter and bowl to attempt a repair on my HPOP leak?
View 6 RepliesThe leak drains into the first valley of the block. This is after a cleaning and about 300 miles driving. I thought it may be the IPR but, it's looking pretty dry:
Some more pics .....
The HPOP line fittings are dry too. Where else do there the HPOP's tend to dribble a leak of oil from?
I had just replaced my the fuel pressure regulator in the fuel bowl because it appeared to be leaking from where the FPR is, now with the new FPR , it is no longer leaking from there but now leaking (fast steady leak while running) from the fuel rail outlet fitting... How do you replace these, why all of the sudden it started leaking there ???
View 9 RepliesAfter cleaning entire valley on my 2001 f350 with 7.3 I have found what appears to be a small leak under the hpop drivers near the IPR. HPOP lines are clean and dry. Possible for IPR to leak at 120k miles and what will need to be done to fix.
View 2 RepliesHave another oil leak, just finished the pan flange gasket last weekend, made it 150 miles, now a new leak.
Took the spider out and everything on top, cleaned the valley up good, the fired the truck. HPO lines are good, but have a drip off the back and bottom of the HPOP, when I reach under it from the back, its right below the large 2 inch circle.
What this might be? was thinking possible orings somewhere under there where it seats, but its been 6 years since I replaced all the orings, don't remember exact layouts.
I have an oil leak where the HPOP hose attaches to the cylinder head. I have the removal tool for the hose. I assume I need a new fitting. What's the torque spec for this fitting, and any additional tips I need for doing this repair?
View 11 RepliesI'm having Hard start when Hot problems, starts fine when cold. It takes a couple of minutes of cranking for ICP numbers to hit 500.
So far I've replaced:
ICP sensor
IPR
Injector O-rings.
Still didn't fix the problem.
I also washed out the engine, and put uv dye in the oil, let it run, to find any external leaks, but I found nothing. I don't thing it's the HPOP, because it's able to sustain high ICP numbers when I hold down the throttle.
My next step was to remove the HPOP and replace all it's o-rings, but I assume since I don't see any leaks, the o-rings aren't the problem. Is there anything else to check, that could be causing low crank ICP numbers when hot?
How common is it for the hpop to leak from the round piece behind the pump next to the drain bolt? Its on a 2000 f350 7.3.
View 12 RepliesMy HPOP was leaking so I pulled it our last weekend along with the fuel bowl and put all new seals in. All my previous leaks are sealed but now this stupid fuel bowl is being a major PIA.
The return line coming off the FPR will not stop leaking! It was slowly dripping when I first replaced the bowl and I thought the leak was between the fuel bowl and FPR housing. I ordered new rings and put it back together.... still leaking.
I wrapped a towel around the fuel fitting and realized that is were the leak is actually coming from. I went to the parker store today and got 3 new 60VL5 sleeves. The first one tore while sling over the fuel line (I was using 2cycle oil as lubricate). The second one leaked even worse.
In a desperate attempt to stop the leak, I slid the sleeve onto the fuel line as far back as it would go. I inserted the fuel line into the bowl and then put a thin coat of rtv on the exposed fuel line. I slid the sleeve over the rtv and then put a light coat of the outside of the sleeve. I tightened the nut up and am waiting for things to dry before trying again.
Why is this fitting giving me such a hard time? I've pulled the FPR housing and it is not cracked so I don't know what the deal is.
My 03' 6.0l hpop only makes about 1700 psi at wot, at hot idle the ipr is 25.1 and the icp is about 580. It runs pretty good but it seems the crank time to start is getting a little longer sometimes, other times it fires right up. It makes no difference if its hot or cold. Do pumps get weak or do you think I have a leak?....
View 1 RepliesTrying to fit my edge fuel pressure sensor. I have a 90* fitting from Diesel O-rings and I can't seem to get the 90 elbow to turn all the way down before it makes contact with the fuel bowl housing. I'm using the drivers side port, should I use the passenger side port? would it have more clearance than the driver side port?
My instinct is to crank it all the way down then tighten the nut, should I just screw it in until it makes contact then tighten the nut? I was worried it wouldn't have enough threads in contact to seal as well as it should and leak.
I did the extended seal kit and non-serviceable plug on my HPOP and now the CEL is on. It is throwing the below codes. The truck in all reality runs fine and even a little better on a cold start than before resealing, just the CEL is on.
P1280
P1209
P1282
P1212
P1211
I cleaned the IPR when it was out when I put new seals on it but could it go bad by just taking it apart? The ICP and IPR are definitely plugged in. The truck is all stock, no chips.
I started "Hard Start at Operating Temperature" you can probably tell that 300k has done a number on my HPOP. I'm wondering what to do... do I buy a new pump from ford? Buy from ebay? Or is there a good pump rebuilder in the Portland metro area? I've heard they are almost impossible to rebuild.
View 6 RepliesSo I have a 2002 7.3 Excursion and I think it is low on power. ICP is falling on its face when on a 60 or 80 HP tune. I have some boost leaks at the plenums and will work on that but that shouldn't cause my ICP to tank at full throttle. Following are some numbers I pulled with WOT runs up a 6% grade.
16PSI BOOST
EXHAUST PRESSURE 40
ICP 1900
80%IPRDC
this is with the 60 or 80HP tune on my DP-tuner. If I ease into the throttle I get
2700 ICP with
45%IPRDC
but if I stomp on the throttle it stumbles and ICP tanks.
Running the stock tune I can maintain
2700ICP at
40-45%IPRDC
Is this my HPOP being weak, or worn out injectors, to much of a tune or a combo of all three?
Pulled the HPOP reseal an oring that was leaking oil. Feel confident that I made sure the check ball stayed in place. Torqued the bolt to 96 ft lbs. Have fuel in the bowl.
We have cycled the starter about 20 times for 15 to 20 seconds. Batteries are charged.
Here is what the AE scan tool is saying after a few seconds of cranking:
ICP -160
IPR - 0.43
Duty - 63.67
Do I need to get a different reading/test.
I have read about stuck open IPR valve giving the low pressure problem, but the truck was running prior to pulling the HPOP.
Lets say I left out the check ball. Would the scan tool show 0 pressure? (Trying to rule out the check ball)
How about if I didn't get the spring seated in the high pressure oil fitting and instead it is hung on the threads and is compressed inside the HPOP. Could that be the case?
Not for sure it makes a difference, but the truck did fire off once on Ether for second.
I have a 7.3 and I think it's leaking oil out of the HPOP but I'm really not positive.
View 2 RepliesWell my hpop is cracked and leaking alot I need to get home this sucks I must of tighted it too hard
View 14 RepliesThis started out as a turbo pedestal O-ring change (leak down the back of the engine). Since I was going to take everything out to do that I figured I'd reseal the fuel bowl and hpop. Wound up replacing the up-pipes as well. Went ahead and changed the ICP and CPS. The truck started rather easy as I've heard its hard to get the air out. I drove it about ten minutes and then noticed it was leaking oil so I went back to check it. I found that it was leaking from one of the output fittings on the hpop as I guess when I tightened it back up after putting on new orings I damaged the pump by over tightening.
The oring and fitting were fine it was on the pump threads I guess. Anyway trucks got 280k miles so I just bought a new hpop from the stealership. Went home and installed it and the truck won't start. Pulled ICP out and cranked no oil coming out. The only other thing would be ipr (I cleaned with brake cleaner and air tip before putting in the new pump) so just to know for sure I bought a new IPR from the stealership and still NO Start. I didn't fool with anything else don't know what it could be. I checked the bolt in the front cover (tight), got to be a BAD (new) pump right.
I had a leak coming from the top of the transmission. The antifreeze appears to be getting into the transmission because when I pull the stick it's a chocolate/white fluid and both the antifreeze and the transmission fluid are new. So, I am talking to two transmission places, trying to decide which one to go with and what to ask them to install because it seems I have different choices depending on what I want the truck to do. I will be using it to haul dirt and farm items, pull a 20 ft cargo hauler, maybe a rv some day.
The transmission guys are throwing all kinds of lingo out there I don't understand. and the price is anywhere from 2500 to 5000 for the tranny. Also they tell me what is included and what is to be changed out but I don't know if it's "everything". One guy said that the "John Woods" brand of tranny is what I want. Also I think my stock engine is fine. A cylinder contribution test shows only one with an issue and it seems to rev fine. The glow plugs need to be replaced I think. Where I'm getting here is if later I have to replace/rebuild the engine should I get a bigger tranny now?