Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Oil In The Coolant - Normal?
Apr 12, 2017
What is the effect will some oil contamination is the cooling system?
Does it significantly affect the cooling efficiency? I have some oil the coolant on my boat. I do not believe it is a lot maybe a few oz, but I have been chasing some unexplained overheating issues. Will adding water wetter solve oil issues (if there are any). The other option is Dawn and several cycles of flushing the system. ie until the cows come home!
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We did a Cody test and found the injector orings leaking and replaced them.
Did the test over and now hear air coming from the oil pan. Is that normal?
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I just got a new redhead steering gear installed by a shop. it made turning the wheel much more laborious so redhead sent me another gear but after that one was installed it was the same way. it also had about a half an inch of play and when the truck is not moving i cannot really turn the wheel at all. is this normal?
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What's too big? I just put 33s on my super duty, is it "too much" for the transmission?
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I have a 2002 F350 7.3 with 76,000 miles (still a baby) ... about a week or 2 ago i got in my truck and went to start it like normal, except instead of whipping over and firing right up in the snap of a finger, it kinda had a slower cranking time and took a second or 2 longer than normal. My first thought was maybe the battery's, BUT there basically brand new !!! not even a year old !!! ... so i figured maybe a starter, but i just left it as is, it still ran normal after firing.... Until this morning, I went to go start it and it cranked over 3 or 4 times real slow and would crank any more, it did this to me multiple times. Its acting like dead batteries so i put a jump pack on it, no change. I am thinking maybe a starter ....
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I just installed the Donaldson B085011 filter last night. I understand the swoosh noise when shifting is normal. But, I noticed a chirpping when coasting. I first suspected suspension parts maybe but after reading on here could it be surge? I've seen some videos of what surge sounds like and it does sound like that but most people say it only happens under load and I'm hearing it just coasting down my farm market road to a stop sign without hauling anything. I'm researching billet compressor wheels now. Am I on the right trail to resolve this?
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I just started having an issue on my 01 7.3 f350 with 203k miles, it will crank much longer then normal to start. If you shut it off then try to restart right away it starts normal, if you wait 10 minutes long crank again. if you shut it off and turn key back on but don't start it you can wait an hour then start right away. IDM bad? Vacation in 2 weeks and I would like to get this fixed first.
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Took a trip today that was 3 hours there and 3 hours back. Truck ran normal on the way there (eot about 202 and ect about 196-198), but on the way back truck ran a little hotter than normal (ect as high as 214 eot stayed within 2-3* plus or minus ect). Fan did kick on every time I hit ect of 212 and would drop it down to 196-198 and oil temp would drop at the same rate.
Truck is stock 190k miles with a bulletproof egr cooler and coolant filter. Oil cooler probably has about 20k on it. (4th one on this truck- since I like changing them out as much as the rest of us). I checked coolant level when I got home and I might've added a pint to get to bottom of sticker. I'm not sure it wasn't a pint low when I did last flush and cooler replacement.
No puking and I can't find any leaks. I pulled egr valve and no moisture in manifold just a worm out o ring that'll I'll replace. I can't find any leaks. Where to check that I haven't? I don't feel like I'm losing coolant because I wasn't really low. My fan never failed to kick on when I hit 212 or stopped at a red light. No moisture in manifold so I'm not thinking losing coolant due to head gasket. Maybe radiator looks ok but tomorrow I will blow out any bugs to make sure.
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I got a friend of mine that owns a 2000 F350 7.3 with around 280,000 miles. He said that the past 2 days its been turning over longer then normal before it fires. Once started, engine runs same as it always has. No sputtering or hesitations, idles fine, etc. However today, he drove to work, shut it off, then went to start it back up 10 or so mins later and now it will only turn over. Said he's getting fuel and compression is good. Unfortunately i dont know much about Diesel engines.
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My friend bartered for a '99 F250, 2wd/auto, 4 door, 7.3, 258k miles.
It had reportedly sat for one year, though the expired registration sticker and other things point to it sitting for two.
It ran low on oil, sputtered and died. Oil in the degas tank. Filled to oil to mid way on the hatch marks on the dip stick.
I drove it 25 miles to my house, and the oil level is not reading on the dip stick.
The sludgy fluid level in the degas tank is unchanged. Where is the fluid going?
I will refill the oil to see just how much it lost in the 25 miles if it important to someone, but I prefer to not waste the oil.
My first plan is to remove, inspect and replace the oil cooler o-rings. Even though the dealership charged him for this, I don't trust that they did it right. I think it is the easiest and mostly likely place for oil getting into the coolant.
It does have a really long crank before there is enough low pressure oil for it to start. At the moment I think this is a separate issue.
The dealership also charged him for a replacement injector. No idea if they replaced the cup or not.
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Had coolant in oil, so pulled motor. Got used motor to replace it with, thinking about doing some work on it before reinstall.
Got bellowed up pipes, injector o-rings, front and rear main seal, and will use best parts from both motors to make one. I'll also shim injector armatures back to spec.
Should I do injector cups too? What else is recommended to do at this time? Both motors are 350k or so, I was on a budget at a moment and have to make it work with what I got.
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I have a 2002 excursion and every time I try to put the coolant at the min level cold, it overflows through the cap until it is about 1.5-2 inches below the min level. Then it stops. I just did the oil cooler seals last night because I had a little oil in the coolant. Same thing happened this morning - overflowed again.
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Although not certain, I *thought* I saw coolant run into the front drivers side injector hole when the injector was out and I leaned on the radiator hose. I had knowledge t pull them and changing the orings who were initially concerned then not concerned after looking closer.
Either I made a mistake in what I thought I saw on my first experience with injectors, or there really is a problem that I didn't know enough about to address at the time. So I opened this thread to get more info and stop hijacking 67speeda's thread, found here: [URL] ....
As per recommendations, I will check my coolant bottle for any fuel, oil, residue, etc. I am also going to reach out to my buddies and see if they saw a problem with coolant, too, or they realized it wasn't coolant and I didn't take note of it ...
It was a REALLY LONG day and my ability to concentrate had begun to slip quickly (health issues), so it's possible I missed something there. So IF I saw coolant going into that cylinder with the injector removed, how bad would that be? I thought it came from pretty high up and ran down where the injector sits..
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So just a couple hundred miles ago I changed the oil and oil filter in my 99 7.3 ... It wasn't till today I noticed an oil/coolant leak ... It is on the driver side of the engine by the oil cooler ... "It isn't the oil cooler leaking already checked"... It seems to be behind the water pump to the driver side of the hpop... Where the thermostat is it is like right behind that but I can't think of what it is .... Its not the oil pump leaking ... It is leaking down and being blown back across my oil pan and oil filter... That is the oil cooler it has residue but its not the problem
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So we begin w/ another saga for the 7.3l Excursion......
A few months ago it started running like crap, real crap and blowing white smoke like crazy. Well I knew this from a previous episode and I had a bad or multiple bad injectors. I tried to trouble shoot which one it was and maybe just replace the one or two....but no it was worse than that. So Life was really busy it kinda got shoved aside until now.
I pulled all the injectors and had them rebuilt locally ..nice. They ended up being with mech for a couple of weeks because he went out of town...no problem. Well this entire time my rig was untouched and when I got them back #7 was full of water.....great, bad injector cup. #7 was the only one, the rest were dry. So I drained the radiator and the oil and left it overnight to completely drain and installed the new injector cup in #7. Next day I refilled via both heads because the valve covers were off, 4 gallons of oil and a new oil filter. Cleared the cylinders via the glow plugs and commenced to trying to get her started. Nada......just cranks, killed the batteries, recharged over night and left the box on them and still nada....but the oil was still very milky at this point.
So tonight I pulled all the injectors back out and drained the oil again, still a lot of water. This time I sucked out the HPOP reservoir and got a more milky water/oil out and I'm leaving everything open all night.
In the am I plan to check my overflow water level in the hopes it remains at the same level...if so I will reinstall all 8 injectors and refill the motor w/ 4 gallons of fresh oil and try again.
Oh, while I was attempting get her started I put my buddies Snapon scan tool on it and I got the p1271-p1278 codes w/ the buzz test. (low side to high side open circuit between idm and injector) So I found the pin test with everything connected at the idm pigtail and everything tested good. So I'm back to my not so fresh oil anymore is the culprit to it not starting.
Am I missing something here?
Also....another fun filled fact is that I seem to have a fuel leak somewhere at the rear passenger side. Every time my fuel bowl fills up, if I shut the key off it will drain down. Sometimes I can see fuel dripping quite vigorously onto my starter but I can not see where it is coming from. I have while it was dripping ran my hand along the head and the fuel lines and can not find where it is coming from. Any thoughts as to where in the hell this fuel could be leaking from?
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Since changing to ELC a couple years ago, my truck will leak a small amount of coolant when I stay over night at the beach house. I haven't noticed any coolant leaks at any other times. I was down there Saturday night and it leaked about two or three tablespoons of coolant over night. I drove home Sunday, and my truck has been parked in the same place for almost 72 hours without a leak. This has happened a couple dozen times over the last two years. The elevation of the driveway at the beach house is 6' above sea level. "Home" (around Houston) is anywhere from 35' to 80' above sea level. Is there any way that the lower elevation is causing this leak? I'm pretty sure it's coming from the thermostat housing, but because I replaced the upper hose, I can't tell if the dried ELC around the housing is new or old.
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Edit, I have also noticed I have been getting low on coolant, but without any noticeable coolant leaks. My engine oil still looks clean, where could the oil be going? How do I fix it?
2003 Excursion 153,000 miles - stock injectors, gt38r with new pedestal, Adrenaline HPOP, double transmission cooler.
I've noticed after some heavy towing with my camper (8,300 lbs), I've been getting a new oil leak showing up on my garage floor. I crawled underneath this afternoon and found three large oil droplets on the starter. See picture. What could this be dripping from?
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Is there any kind of test short of sending a sample to Blackstone or the like to verify if there is actually fuel in my degas bottle as opposed to oil residue from bad oil cooler O-rings?
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I am trying to figure out the problem with my 2002 ford 7.3 Engine.
[URL] ....
It has a lost of engine coolant. The oil is 100% clean with no signs of Coolant. No chocolate milk effect. Also it makes a Odd thumping noise at idle. I think it is coming from the Exhaust Manifold.
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I was searching for an oil leak forever. In my search for the leak I resealed my hpop, redid oilcooler rings and last week had a friend pull my motor to redo the pan gasket. The leaks were almost down to where I thought we had them beat. Now in the last couple days I'm losing coolant and oil....bad. there is oil on the ground mostly from the cross member. Question is did my oil cooler fix not take? I have read that a nicked of ring can cause this.
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I have a coolant leak from behind my timing cover found while doing a coolant system pressure test. I do not want to remove the engine. Looking for info on successful cover install with the engine still in the truck?
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