Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Oil Leak From Rear Lobe At Pan - Tranny Out Next?
Jun 23, 2015
So last year I pulled the motor and put a new pan on. Since then the oil has leaked from the rear lobe at the back of the pan. No oil leaks up top of engine. So I pulled the tranny and am going to put in a rear main. I also see a plate that bolts on the back of the motor and the bottom glues to the pan. I am concerned I did not glue the pan well enough in the lobe as only about 1.5 inches of the lobe has a small amount of grey rtv sticking out. How do I remove the aluminum mount on back of motor that the tranny bolts to? What seals the plate? Oring? Gasket?
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After checking my fuel bowl today for contaminants, I put the lid back on and then noticed a leak from the rear at drain valve. I know, I already ordered the orings. It was doing one drip about every three seconds with the truck running. However, I turned the yellow thing a couple times and the leak stopped. Not leaking right now. Maybe it wasn't shut from previous owner.
Second question.....After stopping leak and after routing my fuel drain hose, I decided to give it a try. No luck. Nothing out or drain. Based on my first fuel filter change, it may be clogged up. So, do I run wire from the bottom up? Or do I run wire from top (bowl) down? Just so you know, sucked the bowl dry with a vacuum device before I reinstalled the filter.
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2001 7.3L 4x4 328,000 miles.... I have the crew cab? (rear doors open opposite to the front) anyhow whenever it rains the carpet under the rear seat is wet. Just wondered if this is a known issue, with a fix or just something random I'm going to need to chase down....
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Took the torque converter cover off and this is what I see. Before I took it off the cover looked oily. Prev I replaced the EGR valve and some other sensors and there was oil on top of the engine. Does this look like a rear main seal or oil dripping from the top of the engine?
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Tranny rebuilt, truck in sig, and beefed up 2 1/2 years and 30K miles ago. Recently started going into D after 10 to 20 seconds after putting it in gear, cold or hot. Very frustrating, especially when trying to maneuver a trailer.
Transmission builder has been running his shop for 20+ years, all makes and models, not Ford specific. I choose him because he runs a local business, has a good reputation, and happens to live less then 1/4 mile from me.
I have searched the forums, and read where Mark says this is loose valve body bolts, or forward drum going out. Builder can't grasp where it would be drum seal if it doesn't do it all the time, which it doesn't. He said it sounds more like something electrical, but there are no codes stored on pcm.
Builder also said he would pull tranny to check drum. Does this sound like I'm moving in the right direction? Or can it be something else?
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'00 PSD w/ 291k on the clock. Starts easily, runs good, only complaint is (what I consider to be) the soft shift of the tranny. Years ago, when I bought it, it came with a Super Chips Tuner. I've never max'd it out, just usually run on the performance tow. Is there any way to clean up the shifts and make them a bit quicker with less slip. When it's time to shift, dammit, I want it to "SHIFT", not slide into gear. I don't expect it to hit the gears like a manual valve bodied drag car tranny. But, there should be something to fix this without spending a bunch of $$$..
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What's too big? I just put 33s on my super duty, is it "too much" for the transmission?
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I spoke with a few people here before about my 4r100.. it threw a code a month ago for P0750.. i replaced solenoid and it continued to do it even after clearing codes numerous times.. then all of a sudden it was perfectly fine for over a week, no codes, i ran a few brick hauls with it and ran it for over an hour straight.. i went to fl and upon return i took her for a drive and wouldnt you know, the code has returned.. i did hammer down a little but not from a dig, i just got on it a little playing with a neighbor and his truck and all of a sudden it did its thing slipping and not up shifting then the O/D started flashing again... i cant understand why the code would come back all of a sudden, there has to be a wiring problem correct?
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I started having an oil leak under my truck in the last week or so and when I went under the rig briefly (it is raining here) it looks like it may be either coming from the oil pan itself or the seam between the tranny and engine case.
I thought I'd try the easy solution by torquing the appropriate bolts. Looking for the torque specs for these two sets of bolts or have any other suggestion where the oil could be coming from?
I have ~130K on the truck.
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I have a 03 F-350, 7.3L. There is a slow oil leak that only leaks after I've run the truck. In other words, it doesn't just sit and leak overnight. I'll park it after running, and the next morning I'll notice a small pool of oil, approximately 2" in diameter. The leak appears to be coming from the oil pan area. I degreased the entire oil pan area to get a better visual of where the leak is coming from. I can see oil trailing down the front of the oil pan and the rear of the oil pan. Does this sound like the gasket? Or, what else could it be? I'm praying its not as bad as I think and need to replace the gasket.
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This was briefly discussed as part of another thread. It appears that I have a boost leak when I hit roughly 24.5 psi. The leak seems to stay for a few minutes after showing itself, but then I'm able to produce boosts up to 24.5 again. For example, on my 20-mile/30-minute drive to work, I can make this leak "appear" four or five times, maybe more if I try. Does this self-healing leak ring a bell? I haven't done a boost leak test yet, but I'm leaning towards the RTV sealant at the OEM plenums due to the self-healing attribute.
To add a little info to this thread, I recently installed an S&B intake, 4" exhaust, bellowed up-pipes, RR billet wheel, RR CAC intercooler boot kit with new clamps, RDP reinforcing plenum inserts, AIH delete plug, and I removed the wastegate solenoid along with the red and green tubes. I don't have any gauges, but I recently began monitoring the boost using FORScan. Before all of this, I don't think I was producing enough boost to cause this leak, and I had no way to monitor for this leak.
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Brothers of fte. I reach out. Tonight it appears I had a fuel bomb under the hood.
I've been chasing a fuel leak. Replaced fuel drain orings but one screw seemed to not snug up. Also the plastic was so brittle I couldn't replace the inner oring. Installed new valve worked great. A week later noticed new slow drips. Replaced fuel filter. Again good for two weeks.
Tonight pulled into the driveway hopped out immediately smelled diesel. Steaming from under hood. Popped the hood and everything was wet. Moved her to the street and it clattered like I was running out of fuel. Still half a tank though. Hosed of the drive. Popped hood again fired it up easily. Started fine. No noticeable leak. But everything is wet from fuel. Insulation on hood was saturated. When I open the hood fuel ran out of the insulation into the air intake. Batteries were wet!
Alright what gives? Do I have to be under load to see this leak?
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I've developed a large oil leak in the valley. My guess is the EBPV. What's it take to fix the leak if I DONT remove the valve?
There's a good chance I'll just take it to my works fleet dept and tell them to fix it.
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Do I have to remove my fuel filter and bowl to attempt a repair on my HPOP leak?
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I just noticed a small leak (red PS fluid) coming from the rear of my hydroboost in the truck (while working on my shift tube replacement this past weekend). The carpet is not wet, but there is a drip hanging on the rear end of the HB waiting to start leaking itself on the carpet. Also, there appear to be no issues with either braking or steering -- all is smooth, firm, steady, and quiet.
I have nearly 290K miles on the truck, replaced the Master Cylinder probably 8 years ago at roughly 150K miles. I no longer spend nearly as much time on the road as I used to (probably 8K miles per year now compared to a previous eight-year long run at 18-20K miles per year.
Questions.
1) Should I go ahead and replace the HB before it gets worse (I don't know how fast the fade when they start this process)?
2) If I replace the HB, should I go ahead and proactively replace the MC along with it since I'll have the whole system wide open?
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The leak drains into the first valley of the block. This is after a cleaning and about 300 miles driving. I thought it may be the IPR but, it's looking pretty dry:
Some more pics .....
The HPOP line fittings are dry too. Where else do there the HPOP's tend to dribble a leak of oil from?
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I moved my truck before I noticed exactly where it was coming from then after ward looked in the engine compartment. I had a puddle under the passenger side looks like the hoses going into the passenger glove box area (because I saw a few drops on them). The liquid is silvery. Any guess what fluid this is or where it might be leaking.
The antifreeze doesn't seem to be getting lower. I drove it yesterday for about 30 minutes and no crazy leaks.
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I own a e1999 Ford F350 7.3 4x4 with a Garrett GTP38R turbo. I have been having issues with very little power and pulled an CEL of P0221. I know it's for the APS and have been trying to trouble shoot it as a new APS has not fixed the problem. However, while working on that I just noticed an oil leak appear. I tracked it down and can visibly see it leaking out the top of the passenger side exhaust manifold in two places. It is seeping out the top. Is oil supposed to even be running through here like that?
I recently replaced my up pipes with the newer style bellowed ones. While I had the turbo off I replaced all the o-rings top and bottom and did the EBPV delete on the pedestal. I have been having very little power and cannot the truck over 5-10 MPH and stays at low RPM's so I originally thought it was the leaky up pipes. Those were fixed along with fuel pressure checks which came back good. I then pulled the P0221 code finally. While I had the turbo off I inspected it and it did spin freely and had no side to side play in it.
What was unusual to me was there was a small pooling of oil in the turbo when I took it off. I know the CCV goes through here so some oil is normal. Also, when I was diagnosing the up pipe leak I could see a small amount of oil spraying out the blown donut gasket along with the exhaust gases. I don't think that is normal.
Is there an internal seal in the turbo that can go bad causing oil to spill into my exhaust and possibly leak at the exhaust manifold? Or do I have an internal oil leak from somewhere else?
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I tried a steel with rubber insert washer, but it still leaks. I might have overtightened or something. It seemed good for a while. Who has a solution for this leak?
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I am trying to track down a leak ..... pretty bad one. I just filled with oil truck fired right up and it didnt appear to leak until I turned the motor off then its pouring down passenger side around the starter and into the drain pan. Any clue?? I am thinking pedestal does it usually leak more as the motor is turned off...
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I have a 95 powerstroke as a daily so I realize the common oil leak issues and where to start. Today at work I came in to our 2002 7.3 with a puddle of oil underneath of it. It's a service truck I'm the mechanic and I honestly after filling it could not get it to leak I tried everything. A guy had come in and started it after sitting for the holiday and it sat and idled and leaked probably 2-3 quarts. They shut it down and I came in I added probably 1 1/2 gallons to get it full again. Has almost 300k after I had gotten there they had already warmed the truck up and it had cooled back down. It's coming from the driver side (axle frame rail and leaf spring) are all covered in oil but no obvious signs when shut off idling under load anything of an oil leak. I tried everything to get it to leak and not a drop.
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