For some reason my OH display decided to show 140 deg F when its 40 deg F outside. Continues to show 140 all the time now regardless of out side temp. In case its the related outside temp sensor sending unit, where it is exactly on an 02. Unless someone has solution may try changing that out to see if that is the problem?
View 14 RepliesHow to recalibrate the temp on the overhead display?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2000 F-150 5.4 SC 4x4 XLT. It has the overhead temperature and direction display. It has started flashing randomly. I don't know how to describe it, but I have a couple videos. Sometimes it doesn't illuminate at all for a while. What is messed up to cause this and could excessive water splashing cause it. It started after going down my driveway which ha water running deep in both tracks the whole 1/2 mile.
There are two videos but one isn't wanting to embed.
[URL] ....
2014 01 13 20 44 46 - YouTube
Noticed a while back that the plug for what I assume is the air intake temp sensor is looped. I assume because I can't find the sensor anywhere. how critical is the sensor? The new S&B has a hole for it so it's either gonna need a new sensor or a plug. The local autozone has one for 16.99.
View 12 RepliesI drove my 99.5 7.3 F-350 1 mile to a friends and hooked it to the OBDII to get a code for my abs light.it had not been drove all day. we hooked into the pcm and he noticed the temp at 375* it was idling. is this right he didnt think it should have been that high???Will the engine coolant temp sensor, if it were bad,show a high temp of 375*? On the OBDII it showed a temp of 375* .....
View 14 RepliesPlugged in my ScanGaugeII on a whim, it's usually on my 6.5 Suburban daily drivers, but was curious to monitor a few things on the 7.3
Noticed this right away, coolant temp reading a solid -40*F and never budging.
I was going to order a ECT gauge and was wondering where to mount the sensor. I have already used the port under the T-stat for the coolant filter. The gauge sensor is a 1/8 NPT. Would the block drains be a good location, or is there another location that will work.
I know the coolant filter housing has a port, but I would prefer the sensor be on the motor.
I just picked up an 05 6.0 Limited and love it, but I can't figure out the overhead temperature gauge. It shows -40 degrees no matter what, but if I hit the outside temp button on the climate control, it shows the (mostly) correct temp. I verified that the temp sensor in front of the radiator is still there and hooked up, and it seems to me that Ford wouldn't go to the expense of using separate sensors for each readout, so I'm guessing that the problem is in the overhead unit itself. All of the other functions (compass, mileage, range) work just fine. I've seen several threads about the overhead dying completely as chips rattle loose. Is it also common for just specific functions to go out as things start to shake apart?
View 14 RepliesA while ago (1 yr) I read and did the pull the wire thing to keep the lie o meter bright all the time. It worked fine, but all of a sudden it seems dim. I can barely read it in the day time. Fine at night. Could it be that the LED's are starting to fail, or some other weirdness? How to remove the overhead console?
View 12 RepliesCoolant temps getting much higher than oil temps under load. Is there any problem that could cause this other than a bad temperature sensor? Reading temps with an Edge CTS 2 monitor. Think I'm going to hook up a mechanical gauge in the morning and see what it shows.
View 8 RepliesMy overhead display quit working earlier this week. The truck has 120k miles. Is this display on it's own fuse? I only used it for the outside temperature readout but I would really like to get it working again.
View 3 RepliesI was wondering about swapping out the short OH console on a 2001 F350 Lariat with the longer one that has two doors for a garage opener etc? Are the clips on the base plate the same? I see the longer console shells on e bay for a little over 100 bucks which seems like a no brainer if it snaps in place of the shorty. Looks like the temp and compass slots are identical.
View 4 RepliesNew 2015 King Ranch. Has the navigation screen where it displays the outside temp. Just watched a youtube video where another 6.7 truck had their ambient temp displayed on the dash screen between the speedo and RPM gauges.
Also going under "gauge mode", it shows tranny and engine oil temp, move over one position it shows compass, and move over third, it shows nothing. What this third position is supposed to be for?
Have taken it out about 4 times and re-soldered the resistors back down. I think I probably fried one. The display is still so dim that you have to look real close to see it.
View 14 RepliesI notice my trans temp gets really hot fast. For instance just moving my trailer from front of my house to side yard makes temp go to 250. Without any load and driving a couple miles it does the same thing. It's been doing it since I installed the trans temp gauge just trying to figure out what's up.
View 14 RepliesI've searched, and gone back through my computer history and can't find it. I have seen a thread here which Mark contributed too which said what the max temps were and for how long etc. I know book is 230 and optimum is around 165 but there was some degree of play in that.
View 8 RepliesSo the idea has been kicked around before, but to my knowledge no one yet has done it on FTE. That is, a lighted display switch for our chips that only lights up the current position. Well, I've got it done!!
First some pics, then read below for how I did it. First pics are in the light, the next two are how it looks in positions 1 & 5 at night.
Now, for how I did it. First off, I started with one of the lighted displays from BCPD. Each number has an individual LED behind it, so I could wire up each one for the position it's in.
The back of all the chips have 7 wires attached to it. One is black, it's in the middle, and it is a common ground to the chip. The other 6 wires are all position grounds. The switch works by grounding one wire to the black wire for the position you are in. If you look at where the wires plug into the chips, the one farthest away from the black is position #1, and they count up sequentially from there toward the black wire.
First thing is to unplug the the selector **** cord from the chip before doing any work. I acutally ordered a spare switch from Jody, just in case I screwed up something (which I didn't), I wouldn't be without my chip.
I took the black rubber off the back of the switch to access the soldered connections. I soldered the ground for each LED on the display to the appropriate pole with the wire connected to it on the back of the display. I had some CAT 5 ethernet cable lying around, and I used the wires inside of it for the ground from the switch to the display. You can use a DVM or continuity tester to check for continuity between the black wire and each position to veryify which wire belongs to what position. I ran the extra wires out the bottom of the rubber cover, along with the original wires.
For power, I only wanted the lights to be on at night. So, I tapped into the wire for the gauge lights, put a 1 amp inline fuse (old glass type fuse), and connected all the hot wires of the LED's so they are a common hot. The LEDs already had resistors wired into them, so I didn't need to add any more.
The fit for everything where I put it was a little tight, but I eventually got it to fit, as you can see. And all the lights do work, and show up quite well at night. The display works by having a common hot to all LED's and grounding the one that for the position it's in, completing the circuit and lighting the LED.
Some other ideas would be to wire up 6 different colored LED's to constant power and place them somewhere else, say in the A-Pillar, dash, or on the door to the inside of the mirror. So, you'd have a different color LED for each position. It's not limited to using the BCPD display, that's just what I already had. The creativity is up to you on how you'd choose to light things up for each position.
Finally, I did talk to Jody about doing this and any negative effects it would have on the chip. He said there would be none, since you're just pulling a ground from it. Also, if you use an LED, they are by design only allowing current to flow in one direction, since they are diode's already. But, to be on the safe side, I used the 1 amp fuse on the power wire. You won't need any bigger than that as the LED's don't draw very much power at all.
I wanted to specifically ask about the block heater though. Since I bought this truck I never was able to start the truck without plugging it in. Now that it's not running I'm thinking much more about the block heater.
Is 56 too low for this old truck to start? What temp should a block heater have the oil temp as seen by AE be?
I live in the southwest so it's not very cold here. plugging in the heater was even required in the summer unless the truck had been running. What kinds of engine trouble would require being plugged in in warm conditions?
I will start off with saying I am posting this for my dad. His truck is a 1999 F350 crew cab DRW 4x4 auto 7.3 with about 189K miles on it. He is leaving wednesday on a cross country road trip pulling a 40FT 5th wheel (no idea the weight but the thing is huge). He has glowshift gauges installed, one of which is the trans temp gauge. I believe the transmissions on these are 4R100, but I am not positive about that, but I'm sure many people here will know. He just told me that he had the mechanic he goes to replace the pan gasket on the transmission because it leaked quite a bit, just as a precaution. He also had them replace the brake booster as it was leaking inside by the brake pedal. When he got it back, he said he was driving it, and the temperature started going up to I believe 220 degrees not pulling anything. He said since he installed the gauges it has been between 180-190, and it jumped to 220.
What this could be. I have read that the TFT sensor can cause this issue, but it would throw a code and possibly go into limp mode. He has no check engine light and it was driving just fine. So the temperature is just all of a sudden high. Fluid level is fine, was checked after about an hour of driving, is red, and doesn't smell bad. I am suspecting the temperature isn't actually hotter, so there is another issue. It's only a big deal now because in a few days he will be dragging a huge 5th wheel behind him.
Last year, we towed some pile of crap 5th wheel down to our city for somebody with his truck, and we had to pull over halfway back because it started to smell like something burning. We think it was the trailer, as the brakes were questionable on them. When we got it to the people we were delivering it to, when we left, it wouldn't shift passed 2nd gear. He only lived a few miles from there, so he drove it home, parked it, then went out the next day and it was fine. He had the fluid flushed later and that issue hasn't come back since. No other work was performed on it since the pan gasket a few days ago. I am not sure if they are related being a year apart, but figured I'd mention it anyways.
2000 F-150 5.4 scab 4x4
Every light on my overhead display would flash on and off randomly. I pulled it and one 510 was dangling and the other fell off when I touched it. They have been properly re-soldered. It still doesn't work after re-solder. I am trying to figure out which wire is the power and which is ground so I can test if power is getting to the board.
There are 6 wires. On one side is blue w/orange stripe, gray w/ black stripe, and white w/ blue stripe. The other side is pink w/ black stripe, blue w/ red stripe, and black w/ blue stripe. The fuse that the overhead console is on isn't blown since my 4x4 and abs is working.
i have a 99 f250 7.3 powerstroke. the cam sensor was acting up. that what the scan tool said. i replaced the cam position sensor yesterday, and the truck is still acting up. the motor hitches and will shut off randomly. it tripped the check engine light, and the code is the "cam position sensor" once the truck is warmed up and shut down for like 10 minutes the sensor will not act up anymore. if i just start the truck and run it, even once it is up to tempature it will act up. but if i shut the truck down for about 10 minutes, it goes away. is there something else that could be causing this?
View 14 Replies