Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Red Door Open Light Started Staying On
Jul 16, 2017
So my red door open light started staying on. Along with all the lights associated with the doors being opened. The lights don't always come on, but the dash lights stays. As a quick fix I just popped the bulbs out and went on my way. Tried lubing the doors. That didn't work. I started noticing it seemed to be related to when I was slowing down or turning.
I thought maybe it's my passenger leaning on the door around the turns. So I inspected all the doors, they latch fine and don't feel like they're open. Last night I was riding by myself, and I realized that it wasn't anyone leaning on the door. When I would slow down, at the same spot. I would hear a click and the lights by the doors would come on, as well as the light on the back of the cab over the bed.
It did it every time the whole way home. It was approx. 16-18 mph when it would click. It was the same spot each time but I couldn't really nail the exact speed and watch for deer. I originally thought I'd just replace the sensors in the doors, but idk if that'll work anymore since it seems to be affected by other factors.
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Door ajar light stays on. Lights were staying on until they timed off but after two days they have returned to normal operation. Where the switch is located on the door frame, I can't seem to find it. 2002 ex psd.
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Had a bad alternator, changed it, and now the battery lite stays on all the time..Changed the alternator again with a known good one, and the light is still on all the time..
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Just bought a 2002 F-250 4x4 Off-Road Crew Cab 7.3L and the airbag light is staying on. I have found out after the fact that the truck has been previously involved in a front end collision. The damage was to the passenger side front. I turn the ignition on, the airbag light will come on solid (just like all the rest, with the exception of the 4x4 and 4x4 low) then go out. Then it flashes slowly 2x then 5x, then goes out for a bit then repeats a few times before staying on. This tells me I am getting a code of 25. I have searched with no luck to narrow this issue down. Everything mechanically works, cruise, horn, etc. The only thing I can find wrong is when I engage the 4-wheel drive (floor shifter) the indicator lights do not illuminate in the instrument cluster. Neither the 4x4 nor the 4x4 low. I am unfamiliar with this truck, so I don't know where to began searching. I cant afford to take it to a dealer and I have children in the truck quite often, so I would like to remedy this very quickly.
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My driver side back suicide door won't open. It is the top latch that is not disengaging. I think I heard something loose in that door over the past month. Am I going to have to take off the inside panel to fix it?
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I can't figure out the problem with my extended cab door. Driver's side doesn't open with either door handle.
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So my OD light started blinking on the way to work today. The fact that my truck dropped out of cruise control and then started downshifting out of OD on the freeway and back into OD started this ordeal. A quick scan of the dash made it easy to notice the OD light strobe, especially in the dark.
I've read some posts in the past in the event it happened to me since my truck is far from new. I had it in the back of my mind that I would attack the VSS sensor with some contact cleaner then replace if that didn't fix the problem. Doing a search revealed a far greater spectrum of culprits. In addition to the VSS potential I have read about transmission handles, chafed wiring in the steering column, and even the transmission itself. Instead of re-inventing the wheel I'm looking for those that have more knowledge on this issue than I do. Here are my symptoms:
1. Drove 5 miles from my house to the freeway with no issues.
2. Shortly after getting on the freeway I set my cruise control at 65mph.
3. Shortly after that my cruise control 'dropped out' and the truck started to slow down (obviously).
4. When I got back up to speed the cruise would not work which is when the out of OD and right back into OD started. It did that all the way to work (it would go out of OD and back in every couple of minutes or so).
5. Transmission hunted on surface streets too (25mph).
6. Turned the truck off, waited a couple of minutes, then started it back up. OD light is off and truck drives fine.
A couple of things to note. This is the first time anything like this has ever happened with the truck. Also, I have Torque Pro and my instantaneous MPG meter was at 0.0 the entire time this was happening. When I turned the truck off and back on, the MPG was displaying again normally. This is what made me thing something with the VSS connector.
I decided to search the issue and confirm my suspicions then found out that this could be a lot more difficult to pinpoint. Since it cleared up when I cycled the key I am ruling out a transmission issue (for now).
I plan on cleaning the VSS connector (that's the plug on top of the rear axle right?) and then pulling the cover off the steering column to see if I can see any chafed wires. Is there anything else to check out while I'm rooting around? I will add that my transmission handle has always been loose (I think the original owner used to drive with his right hand resting on the handle).
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I have had the PSD about 2 months. It's a 2000 Ext cab LXT.
If you open the door, no lights. If the key is in the ignition and you open the door it buzzes. If you have the light on, the light around the door locks and window controls stay on after you turn off the truck until you open the door. The dome light never comes on unless you use the switch on the light. What's up with the darkness! This truck is like a cave! No under dash lights, no door lights no dome light! As for those red lenses on the door, no wiring, no lights no nada! Do the lights com on when you open the door? Any light?
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I was driving the truck a couple of weeks ago and it just died. I costed to the side of the road. It cranked but would not start. noticed the WTS light was not on. I bought a new one from dealership and installed it and it started right up. I assumed I fixed it. I let it warm up and drove it around the block and parked it and plugged the battery tender back up. the other day I got in and no WTS light again.
I was going to look at wire bundle over valve cover and 42 pin connector. Is there any other issues, I need to look at? Is it possible I just got a bad sensor? My guess would be something is shorting the sensor out if thats the problem so before I just put a new one in I thought I would ask the pro's. I have not done a lot of work to my truck aside from replacing the water pump, hoses and coolant.
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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I have a 02 f250 4x4 7.3l.... I drove it all weekend and no problems. It sat till yesterday I got in it to go to church. It started up and had a little miss was around 60 f. Then the od light started flashing. Not in any code just constant flash. I was parked down in my drive way. It idled fine but acted like it wouldn't take fuel. So looked around and found the hose on the map sensor was broke.
So today I fixed the hose. Checked the oil level and battery connections. Still running weird and flashing od light. I got under the hood and wiggled plugs I unplugged the ice. It revved up then back down and started running smoothly. Got in it and it backed out of the drive way. It ran and drove fine. What I need to know is why??? The ice is a new one from Ford.
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So was replacing my power steering pump get all done and my headlights start flickering and then stay on the switch is off it does have DRL on it but they have been unplugged for about 10 years what do I need to check
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My 08 Prius developed a hiccup yesterday. While driving down the interstate there was an occasional red flash from the dash. It would come and go so fast that by the time I could actually process it and focus it was gone. I had to stop by the dentist office as I was ready to walk out the door I heard a car in the parking lot with the horn/alarm sounding. I mentioned to the folks in the waiting room that someone alarm was going off. A lady replied that green Prius with the bike rack!
Sure enough it was mine! I was unable to find any causal factor. I left there and at my next stop, the horn/alarm started sounding just as I walked through the entrance door to Home Depot back to the parking lot. This time the Door Ajar/Open light on the dash was lit. I opened and closed all the doors and hatch. The Door Ajar light was still on I then manually manipulated all the door switches and opened/closed/slammed the hatch several times. No Joy I drove home.
About the only thing I was able to find was that it was probably the hatch, the switch is sealed within the locking/latch mechanism and that I could simply just unplug it. So I began troubleshooting.
After removing the rear hatch/floor, plastic bin, etc. I removed the plastic cover from around the latch (above the bumper not on the hatch lid), then removed the longer plastic cover that runs along the same area and provides the cover for the area between the rubber gasket and the inside of the hatch/floor area. Now I was able to see the latch mechanism and associated wiring (looking down toward the spare tire well). I also had the hatch light turned on (left side) which was easier to see than the Door/Ajar light on the dash.
I manually tripped the latch and the light flickered. I pressed down on the latch (hoping to put more pressure on the internal switch)…the light continued to flicker. Using a 10mm socket, I removed the latch, wiring retainers and disconnected the plug. The electrical plug, located about 8†to the left of the latch has 4 wires. The two on the bottom power the electrically operated latch and the two on top go to the Door Ajar switch (the one that is inside the latch assembly).
I noticed a little bit of corrosion and discoloration on one of the male pins (the plug that is connected to the latch end of the wiring). The female plug (connected to the car end of the wiring) also had some discoloration.
I plugged them back together and found that as I moved the wires/plug the light would flicker and change sometimes turning off. I unplugged it and connected my ohm meter (using small jumper wires with clips) to the two top (male) pins on the switch end of the plug. The switch tested fine. I even tested it with my homemade battery powered continuity light (wanting to test the switch under a load). I also wiggled the wires going into the plug itself, Perfect, no problems here! So, I determined the problem was truly with the plug itself. I also jumped the two female connectors with a short piece of wire (simulating the switch) and the light would come on (as it should have). OK, plug problem confirmed!
I cleaned the pins (both male and female), applied some dielectric compound and plugged it up. The light remained off for a few seconds then started flickering again! I could even hear a slight hissing sound coming from the plug (never a good sign). I tried tweaking the male pins (bending them slightly trying for a better connection) No Joy.
I clipped the wires (only the top two) from each end of the plug (red & white/black stripe wires coming from the latch).
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I have a 2002 f250 7.3, an my radio is staying on when I turn the key off and open the drivers door. Windows are also still working. But if I open the passenger door it shuts off. What do I need to fix this I am tired of leaning way over and tryind to open that door every time I turn the truck off. I have been told to spray wd-40 into the door catch are i used a whole can an it still isn't working...
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OK, truck is 2000 F350. I am heading on a 2000 mile roadtrip to Yellowstone for my wife's 40th birthday in two days. What was our rock of a vehicle is now causing me severe anxiety.
Over the last few days the truck has been difficult to start - almost stops turning over as if the batteries were low. So I ignored it because if I plug it in, it starts fine and if I drive it and it gets hot - it starts fine.
Tonight while driving - I noticed a high idle and then it went to normal - I thought it was weird and a few miles later at a stop sign it struggled at idle, sort of loping but not romping very high and the over drive light started blinking. When I got home when I went from drive to neutral it goes to high idle and then the overdrive light blinks. The first time it blinked it went off when I pressed the OD button - but now it continues to blink.
Would low batteries be the root cause of this? I will continue my search for blinking OD light but I thought I would get this in the queue in case this is bigger than I can handle. I have 48 hours to resolve this issue - leaving Wednesday early morning.
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I bought this truck with a stock automatic transmission and 260k miles back in October expecting the transmission to be the first thing to go. Recently I had a transmission code, OD OFF light flashing, for the bad speed sensor which i got replaced. Then the OD OFF light started flashing after some hard driving when I would put into neutral or park so I took it back to the mechanic, Hanahan Truck and Auto in Sc. They looked into it and there wasn't any different code in the system but they noticed when you lay into it driving it slips some between 2nd and 3rd gears so that could cause the computer to put in a code.
They said usually a rebuild runs from $2k-2.5k and they also recommended a Jasper reman for roughly $2.8k which comes with a 100k mile 3yr warranty. So I figure replacing the transmission is probably the way to go. Any recommendations for a replacement. I've heard ATS and Sun Coast are decent options that I could build one. I'm looking to stay close to $3k. My truck is a 2000 F250 lariat 4x4 with 268k miles. I'm installing an S&B intake, 4" MBRP exhaust, and DP-Tuner's F6 chip when I get the transmission work done.
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Well today the tach was not working at all and the check gauge, check engine and glow plug lights are staying on. Truck runs and starts great, everything else seems to work except the trans temp gauge. Did a search for the GEM and could not find anything that indicates the GEM controls the tach and warning lights.
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I have a 2002 f250 screw. my door ajar light is lit up on the dash. I have tried the wd40 trick, pulled the sensors and bench tested them. What are the codes the instrument cluster test has for each door?
What I am thinking is, if we get a list posted it would be much easier to diagnose the door sensors for others. there should be a open/closed bit for each door. possibly a code for all doors open too. I am curious if there is a code for bad communication on the VSM.
From what I have read, correctly working the doors should read 00 when they are closed. drivers front open=80, pass front open=40 ... My door code does not change no matter what combination of door open/close I use.
Truck is 2002 f250 crew cab ...
My code is C0 ...
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Here are some signs of the problem.
*Key fob does not work - battery is good.
*Interior overhead light works only on manual.
*Driver's auto door lock (with driver door open) will lock all four doors but the driver's door will automatically open back. To secure the truck I manually lock the driver's door.
*I replaced the driver's door 'ajar switch' with no results. The old switch was good after testing - normally closed until the ball is depressed then it goes to open.
*No codes.
*I just checked all the mini-fuses with a VOM and they are good.
*Could one of the relays be part of the problem?
I am curious if there is a scanner that can identify the bad door ajar switch if any?
From what I have read so far it appears the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) may be bad as a many of these 2002's complain of this problem and the VSM generally solves the issues. Are there folks other than the dealerships that can program the module if I purchase a new one and remove the old OEM one? Other than the inconvenience the truck runs fine other wise.
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So I have an issue over the last couple weeks, when I open the driver's door the power steps extend, and anywhere from 10 seconds to a minute later the step will retract like I closed the door. I didn't notice this the first time so the first step out of the truck caught me off guard. Now I pay attention to see it is extended before I get out.
So at first I thought it was a step issue, like it wasn't getting a consistent signal that the door was open, but I noticed yesterday when I had the door open, truck running, and radio on it all of a sudden retracted. I shut the truck off and got out but the radio kept playing because the truck thought the door was closed even though it was wide open. I closed the door and opened it and the radio shut off and the step extended and retracted like it should.
So last night I left the door open, truck off, no key in it. Over a period of 5 minutes, the step extended and retracted 8 times. My issue is only with the drivers door, the back doors and passenger doors don't appear to have an issue.
Where is the switch for the door? I think that would be the best place to start in replacing that.
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A little history first. 1998 F-150XL ... We bought this truck in 2001 and other than some random electrical issues we love this truck. The first thing to go bad was the was the interior light staying on even with the door closed, no big deal I just removed the bulb, the next thing to go bad was the instrument cluster except the speedometer, not too big of a deal just keep track of the mileage so you don't run out of gas. The next problem was randomly not starting like it lost its ground, the lights on the dash would be bright until you hit the starter then the lights on the dash would go dim and the starter would tap like it had no ground. Wait a few minutes and it would start again and it would be a year before it would do it again, until now!
Drove to town came back out did it again except this time would not start again. We pulled the starter switch it was good, replaced the clutch engagement switch on the clutch pedal, no good. Decided to pull it home, tried to pop start it, no dice. While pulling home all the sudden everything lit up on the dash and it started like a champ, drove it the rest of the way home and it wouldn't start back up. Since then I have put in a new battery, new battery wire ends, took lose the ground on the firewall and starter and cleaned them with no luck. I can get the lights to come up bright on the dash again, but as soon as I hit the starter all goes dead again. I am at a complete loss where to go next?
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