Well today the tach was not working at all and the check gauge, check engine and glow plug lights are staying on. Truck runs and starts great, everything else seems to work except the trans temp gauge. Did a search for the GEM and could not find anything that indicates the GEM controls the tach and warning lights.
View 14 RepliesMy truck is a 2007 F-350 DRW. I'm not sure when,because I don't use it much in Texas, but My Four Wheel Indicator lights on the dash quit working. I don't see them in the dash at startup either. I'm not sure if the four wheel drive is coming on at all. There is probably a way to check that without driving off into a mud bog, right? Anyway I have looked for blown fuses etc, no luck yet. (15amp#33 under dash and 30amp#3 under hood). These are according to my manual.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 F350 super duty 7.3 turbo diesel. It has 189 000 kms or about 150 000 miles. I have had problems all winter with my engine. I can drive it for days and then without warning she quits. She will not start right away but sometimes, if I drain the fuel filter and try her she fires right up and runs for about 10 minutes then quits again. If I wait a few hours, while waiting for a tow truck, she may start and again run for days but she may not...
I have a good friend who is a mechanic, and a cracker jack at it, but he is dumfounded as to what the problem is. She does not show any codes and my buddy has a computer analyser.
So far he has done what others have suggested including changing, Crank Sensor, IPR sensor, ICP sensor, new Lift pump, Fuel pressure regulator, and removed emptied and cleaned the fuel tank and suction lines.
All this to no success. Now we have run out of thoughts. All week I drove her without problem till yesterday when she quit again. There is no set time, weather condition or anything to suggest a problem so I reach out for a solution. The truck is in mint condition and very, very, far from being condemned but this is frustrating.
Having issues with the gauges in my truck. Usually only in the mornings, the tach will quit working and the speedo will go to 70 or 80 (this morning 100), the check gauges light comes on and the tranny is stuck usually in 3rd (auto). The indicator light for the gearshift (P,R,D,3,2,1) also goes out. I swapped out the fuel injector spider a while back and that's when the problem began.
View 1 RepliesOn my 2003 powersteering the windows and radio will just quit working. Then they will come on again. Maybe in and hour or a day or a week. Where do I sart.
View 6 RepliesI recently had my fuel gauge stuck on full and at around the same time, my left rear brake light doesn't work. I do have LED brake lights in the rear so I am not sure if that changes anything. I thinking something with a ground or is it possible that these aren't even related.
View 2 RepliesA little background information is that I was towing a large gooseneck trailer about a year ago when half way to the destination the lights quit. Not just the trailer but the truck tail lights, turn signals and everything except the headlights. Well after getting there and unplugging everything it stayed the same. Well on the way home without the trailer the lights began working again. All the truck lights acted as it never happened. No blown fuses or anything.
Well things are are going ok since then but I can never get running lights to any of my 3 trailers to work. Turns and brake lights are fine. What gives? All the fuses are fine and the truck running lights work just fine. One thing I have noticed is that on my horse trailer I have the little led lights on the sides operational... I would have assumed these to be the same as the tail running lights.
I have looked all over the Internet, but I can't find out how to change the lights on the dashboard. I have checked all the fuses. I have no clue have to check the dimmer switch. Though, the over head light does come on when I turn on the switch. All the lights for the check engine and such light up. The dash will not light up during the night. Someone told me that there should be a youtube video or a how to steps. I am very new to fixing my new to me truck. I have checked the how to steps on this forum and a few others.
View 4 RepliesMy 16 year old F250 4X4 diesel has developed a problem with no backup lights working, and the vacuum pump is not getting power. The fuse (#28) checks out OK, and I'm told to check for a broken wire on or near the backup switch. I don't know where to locate the backup switch. I have the huge Ford Service manuals, but they are written with the perspective that you should already know where the switches are. Where to find the switch?
View 4 RepliesSo was replacing my power steering pump get all done and my headlights start flickering and then stay on the switch is off it does have DRL on it but they have been unplugged for about 10 years what do I need to check
View 3 RepliesI installed a new trailer wiring harness onto the back of my 2002 F250 Super Duty with 7.3 diesel engine. Unfortunately, I was 180 degrees off on my wiring. When I hooked up to the camper I blew Fuse #115 (Trailer Tow Battery Charge) as it connected directly to the camper ground wire. I replaced the 20amp fuse and all other fuses were good. Currently, I have all the truck wires to the harness isolated and have power to all of them except for the parking lights. All the lights on the truck work fine.
My truck has a interior fuse panel on the driver's side as well as two small black boxes under the hood, near the brake booster. The under-hood boxes had only relays in them. Two relays in one black box, three in the other. The box with three relays had trailer left turn and right turn relays. which worked fine. The third in that box, apparently, is for the A/C clutch, controlled by fuse #10. The other black box (with two relays), apparently, are for 4WD Shift on the fly, controlled by fuse #111. So, no relay for the parking lights.
Next, I pulled the fuse panel out a little and checked continuity from the end of the parking light wire (brown with white stripe) at the back of the truck to the back of the fuse box and found that it was a good wire with no breaks or shorts to ground, however no voltage is showing at the parking light wire when I turn on the parking lights. The harness at the back of the fuse box has several wires going into it. The parking light wire (brown with white stripe) is in the same harness as the back-up light wire (black with green stripe) and the back-up light does have voltage, when I put it in reverse.
I'm not sure what happens inside of the fuse box, i.e., how does one fuse run a few wires... is there some kind of circuit board? I know the easy way would be to run a vampire connector from the truck parking lights, or maybe the license plate light to power the trailer lights, however, I'm just not built that way.
So my red door open light started staying on. Along with all the lights associated with the doors being opened. The lights don't always come on, but the dash lights stays. As a quick fix I just popped the bulbs out and went on my way. Tried lubing the doors. That didn't work. I started noticing it seemed to be related to when I was slowing down or turning.
I thought maybe it's my passenger leaning on the door around the turns. So I inspected all the doors, they latch fine and don't feel like they're open. Last night I was riding by myself, and I realized that it wasn't anyone leaning on the door. When I would slow down, at the same spot. I would hear a click and the lights by the doors would come on, as well as the light on the back of the cab over the bed.
It did it every time the whole way home. It was approx. 16-18 mph when it would click. It was the same spot each time but I couldn't really nail the exact speed and watch for deer. I originally thought I'd just replace the sensors in the doors, but idk if that'll work anymore since it seems to be affected by other factors.
Door ajar light stays on. Lights were staying on until they timed off but after two days they have returned to normal operation. Where the switch is located on the door frame, I can't seem to find it. 2002 ex psd.
View 12 RepliesHad a bad alternator, changed it, and now the battery lite stays on all the time..Changed the alternator again with a known good one, and the light is still on all the time..
View 14 Replies2006 Gen II Prius with 105k miles. Last Thursday while driving, all the warning lights came on. Saturday we replaced the main battery pack in the back. The 12V battery seemed OK at the time and the car ran a few days successfully.
View 9 RepliesJust bought a 2002 F-250 4x4 Off-Road Crew Cab 7.3L and the airbag light is staying on. I have found out after the fact that the truck has been previously involved in a front end collision. The damage was to the passenger side front. I turn the ignition on, the airbag light will come on solid (just like all the rest, with the exception of the 4x4 and 4x4 low) then go out. Then it flashes slowly 2x then 5x, then goes out for a bit then repeats a few times before staying on. This tells me I am getting a code of 25. I have searched with no luck to narrow this issue down. Everything mechanically works, cruise, horn, etc. The only thing I can find wrong is when I engage the 4-wheel drive (floor shifter) the indicator lights do not illuminate in the instrument cluster. Neither the 4x4 nor the 4x4 low. I am unfamiliar with this truck, so I don't know where to began searching. I cant afford to take it to a dealer and I have children in the truck quite often, so I would like to remedy this very quickly.
View 9 RepliesThursday coming home my 7.3 quit just like ran out of fuel, changed fuel filter still no run. Changed hpfp engine turns over no run. Temp 70 in my garage, batteries good, one small squirt either engine runs great, No check engine light, nothing. I need my truck..
View 7 RepliesI have a late 99 f350 psd with 94k miles. I have had it a little more than a year. It has been a great truck until last night. left my parents place drove up the road about 40 mph and truck just died. I tried to restart with no luck. I don't have a scanner to pull codes, but I immediately thought cps. I went to town and got one, replaced it and had no change. Still crank, no start. I thought maybe fuel so I drained the bowl and pulled the filter. I found the previous owner had torn the bottom oring on the filter when he installed it.
Part of the oring was laying on the bottom of the fuel bowl and part of it was still in the filter oring groove. I removed all the 2 chunks of oring and reassembled the filter and primed the bowl. Cranked the truck, still no start. I unplugged the icp sensor and after cranking a few seconds, the truck coughed. I tried starting again and it fired up. So I shut it off and plugged in the icp again and it restarted no problem. Is that an indicator the icp sensor is shot? Or is there another problem I need to dig into.
Traveling right now. Limited access to FTE.
On the way to the airport this morning at 4:30 am, the engine simply did while running down the interstate. Absolutely no symptoms leading up to it. Turns over fast but will not start. White smoke from tall pipe while trying to start.
I unplugged the fuel bowl heater and checked the IPR tin nut and the ICP sensor connections... Nothing obvious.
Problem was CPS and the engine is now running fine again.
Having problems with warning beeper staying in the "off" position?? i am going to try and unhook the battery, but if that doesnt work, then what to do...
View 12 RepliesA lady friend of mine got a '99 7.3 CCLB auto dually in a divorce. She doesn't drive it but starts it once a week and yesterday it wouldn't start. It cranked about 10/15sec (after waiting for WTS light to go out) before it sputtered and tried to start but it quit. Then it cranked another 10sec or so and the batteries died. It was about 85deg so it should have started w/o GPs.
Watching the voltmeter, GPs seemed to draw current. There's a lot of corrosion on both batteries so I know that needs to be cleaned up. Assuming the batteries aren't shot, after cleaning the corrosion, is it safe to hook jumper cables to a car to charge the batteries, but disconnect the jumper cables before starting the truck? Or should I use a plug in AC charger? I've never jumped a dual battery vehicle - not even my own 7.3.
She wants to sell it but it's in pretty rough condition - possibly normal for that age with 160K on a work truck. It was used in a business she had with her ex. The valley of death has some wet fuel in it and there is a film of diesel on the fuel bowl, fuel lines and wiring in the vicinity. I could smell the fuel before I opened the hood or tried to start it and it hadn't been run in a week. She says it runs fine and uses no oil but is always rough to start. It rolls rather than barks to life. It's bone stock with flat factory downpipe and airbox.
The engine cover is missing. Connectors and wiring on top of the valve covers appear new. She looked up the value and says it books for $7200 on KBB in its current condition. It was always parked in the sun here in Albuquerque and it shows. Body looks good as far as no rust or dents, but the white paint is faded (flat looking) and the blue interior is also pretty rough with 40/20/40 front seat and cracked dash. If I get it running I'll post it in the for sale section if she doesn't find a local buyer by then.