Thursday coming home my 7.3 quit just like ran out of fuel, changed fuel filter still no run. Changed hpfp engine turns over no run. Temp 70 in my garage, batteries good, one small squirt either engine runs great, No check engine light, nothing. I need my truck..
View 7 RepliesI recently had my fuel gauge stuck on full and at around the same time, my left rear brake light doesn't work. I do have LED brake lights in the rear so I am not sure if that changes anything. I thinking something with a ground or is it possible that these aren't even related.
View 2 RepliesI have a late 99 f350 psd with 94k miles. I have had it a little more than a year. It has been a great truck until last night. left my parents place drove up the road about 40 mph and truck just died. I tried to restart with no luck. I don't have a scanner to pull codes, but I immediately thought cps. I went to town and got one, replaced it and had no change. Still crank, no start. I thought maybe fuel so I drained the bowl and pulled the filter. I found the previous owner had torn the bottom oring on the filter when he installed it.
Part of the oring was laying on the bottom of the fuel bowl and part of it was still in the filter oring groove. I removed all the 2 chunks of oring and reassembled the filter and primed the bowl. Cranked the truck, still no start. I unplugged the icp sensor and after cranking a few seconds, the truck coughed. I tried starting again and it fired up. So I shut it off and plugged in the icp again and it restarted no problem. Is that an indicator the icp sensor is shot? Or is there another problem I need to dig into.
On my 2003 powersteering the windows and radio will just quit working. Then they will come on again. Maybe in and hour or a day or a week. Where do I sart.
View 6 RepliesI have my aux fuel tank pump hooked to upfitter 3. It has worked perfectly until this week. I started to transfer fuel and the aux fuel gauge and fuel pump both quit. The led on upfitter switch 3 still illuminates, but no fuel pump. I found fuse 9 on passengers kick panel is for upfitter 3. The fuse was good. Is there another fuse somewhere for the circuit I've missed? I can trouble shoot the wiring if necessary, but it's tough to do all behind the left side underbed box and not easy to get to. I've missed something simple before I go further????
View 14 RepliesTraveling right now. Limited access to FTE.
On the way to the airport this morning at 4:30 am, the engine simply did while running down the interstate. Absolutely no symptoms leading up to it. Turns over fast but will not start. White smoke from tall pipe while trying to start.
I unplugged the fuel bowl heater and checked the IPR tin nut and the ICP sensor connections... Nothing obvious.
Problem was CPS and the engine is now running fine again.
I have a 2000 F350 super duty 7.3 turbo diesel. It has 189 000 kms or about 150 000 miles. I have had problems all winter with my engine. I can drive it for days and then without warning she quits. She will not start right away but sometimes, if I drain the fuel filter and try her she fires right up and runs for about 10 minutes then quits again. If I wait a few hours, while waiting for a tow truck, she may start and again run for days but she may not...
I have a good friend who is a mechanic, and a cracker jack at it, but he is dumfounded as to what the problem is. She does not show any codes and my buddy has a computer analyser.
So far he has done what others have suggested including changing, Crank Sensor, IPR sensor, ICP sensor, new Lift pump, Fuel pressure regulator, and removed emptied and cleaned the fuel tank and suction lines.
All this to no success. Now we have run out of thoughts. All week I drove her without problem till yesterday when she quit again. There is no set time, weather condition or anything to suggest a problem so I reach out for a solution. The truck is in mint condition and very, very, far from being condemned but this is frustrating.
A lady friend of mine got a '99 7.3 CCLB auto dually in a divorce. She doesn't drive it but starts it once a week and yesterday it wouldn't start. It cranked about 10/15sec (after waiting for WTS light to go out) before it sputtered and tried to start but it quit. Then it cranked another 10sec or so and the batteries died. It was about 85deg so it should have started w/o GPs.
Watching the voltmeter, GPs seemed to draw current. There's a lot of corrosion on both batteries so I know that needs to be cleaned up. Assuming the batteries aren't shot, after cleaning the corrosion, is it safe to hook jumper cables to a car to charge the batteries, but disconnect the jumper cables before starting the truck? Or should I use a plug in AC charger? I've never jumped a dual battery vehicle - not even my own 7.3.
She wants to sell it but it's in pretty rough condition - possibly normal for that age with 160K on a work truck. It was used in a business she had with her ex. The valley of death has some wet fuel in it and there is a film of diesel on the fuel bowl, fuel lines and wiring in the vicinity. I could smell the fuel before I opened the hood or tried to start it and it hadn't been run in a week. She says it runs fine and uses no oil but is always rough to start. It rolls rather than barks to life. It's bone stock with flat factory downpipe and airbox.
The engine cover is missing. Connectors and wiring on top of the valve covers appear new. She looked up the value and says it books for $7200 on KBB in its current condition. It was always parked in the sun here in Albuquerque and it shows. Body looks good as far as no rust or dents, but the white paint is faded (flat looking) and the blue interior is also pretty rough with 40/20/40 front seat and cracked dash. If I get it running I'll post it in the for sale section if she doesn't find a local buyer by then.
Well today the tach was not working at all and the check gauge, check engine and glow plug lights are staying on. Truck runs and starts great, everything else seems to work except the trans temp gauge. Did a search for the GEM and could not find anything that indicates the GEM controls the tach and warning lights.
View 14 RepliesSo my 7.3 started sputtering and lost power, died on the side of the road. I wasn't far from home put about 8 gallon of diesel in the tank with a couple of fuel jugs and it fired right up.
Gauge was reading 1/8 of a tank and low fuel light did not come on. (low fuel light comes on when you start) Gauge came up to about 1/2 after putting fuel in.
What happened? Gauge was always reliable and low fuel light always did work. Only work done to fuel system was had new tank straps put on a couple of months ago.
01 7.3. Cranks, won't start. Tank was at 1/4 but is full now. The lift pump runs, I can feel and hear that the motor is spinning when I cycle the key. I removed the fuel filter and cycled the key and get no fuel into the bowl. It looks like the lines are stainless from the pump to the tank so I doubt it is sucking air. I pressurized the tank with a shop vac and I get fuel coming into the filter housing. Am I missing something obvious? I have never seen an electric pump that would run and not pump fuel. I removed the suction line at the pump and don't feel any suction there.
View 14 RepliesMy truck is a 2007 F-350 DRW. I'm not sure when,because I don't use it much in Texas, but My Four Wheel Indicator lights on the dash quit working. I don't see them in the dash at startup either. I'm not sure if the four wheel drive is coming on at all. There is probably a way to check that without driving off into a mud bog, right? Anyway I have looked for blown fuses etc, no luck yet. (15amp#33 under dash and 30amp#3 under hood). These are according to my manual.
View 2 Replies2003 F-350 - 7.3. With the key in the on position there is zero voltage to the fuel pump. Fuel pump fuse is good. I traced the red with black tracer wire from the pump up through the firewall and to the safety inertia switch. The switch has continuity so it's OK. Then from the safety switch I traced the green with yellow tracer wire to a fuse block plug connector. Then I checked continuity from that connector out to the #40 fuel pump fuse and it's open.
So I then i checked from the fuel pump fuse to all the back connections on the back of the fuse block and there was no continuity to any of them. So I removed the back cover off the fuse block to expose any issues. I found two board mounted relays. Now, from the fuse I get continuity to one of the relay connections. So did Ford hide the fuel pump relay and make it non replaceable? Also if this is the pump relay then what circuit energizes it? I need to make sure before I replace the fuse block.
I have a 2003 F250 and dont have power at fuel pump, or fuse #30. I put power directly to fuel pump and it worked and truck fired right up.
View 13 RepliesLow power on my 2003 7.3 F350. The truck runs fine but I can tell it is low on power (seat of the pants). I figured it to be fuel related so changed fuel filter and oil with no change. When that didn't work I installed a fuel guage and this what I found. Key on no start fuel pressure 45 psi. Start truck the pressure will get up to 61psi. Under a load it will drop down to the low 30s. I have dropped the tank mixing chamber screens clean and so was the tank. Changed fuel pump and now under a load it drops to the high 30s. Does this sound like the fuel pressure regulator is leaking by and causing low pressure under a load? Truck is stock besides superchips 1705 programer.
View 9 RepliesThere was no power getting to the fuel pump on my 2002 Ford F250 73 diesel traced it back to the inertia switch no power in or out but I'm getting power at the fuel pump relay put the code scanner to the PCM and no communication....
View 9 RepliesMy 99 F350 cranks, but won't start, and the "water in fuel" light on the dash stays on while cranking. I have never paid close attention to it in the past. Is it supposed to be on while cranking?
I drained the water from the yellow lever located on top of the engine, and tried to start it. The light went off for the first few cranks, but again the truck still will not start.
I just came from a 10 hours round trip to NC. I filled the truck up two times from gas stations on the way. Is it possible that the fuel is bad? I drove on the same fuel almost 3/4 of this tank and now at the last 1/4 I am having this issue.
A little update:
I took the top of the fuel bowl off to see what the filter looks like, and it is nasty and completely black. I could not tell if the fuel in the bowl contained any water, but it looks greenish and uniform, no the obvious separation that happens when you mix water and oil.
Could the fuel filter be the problem?
A little history about the truck. It's always hard to start if cold and not plugged in overnight. I know it's the glow plugs relay, so I just keep it plugged in all the time until I get a chance to fix it.
IDM was acting up shutting off half of my engine, but I took it off, cleaned it, plugged it back in and it has been working fine for over 2 months.
I was driving my truck then all sudden truck started losing power then slowly died. I restarted it, it was a lil shacky then died again. Iunscrewed the fuel filter and looked in the housing and there was lil fuel in bowl i turned the key to on position and bowl did not fill with fuel looked as if it were shooting some bubbles up(air) could it be outta of fuel???
View 10 RepliesWhat I know the truck was running normal except if I stomped the gas pedal and let off it would not respond again until I shut off keys and restarted this was a month ago now the truck sounds like it has a lope tune.
When I hit the gas pedal it blows white smoke and if I press the gas while idling or driving it floods out I did the spray bottle test on manifolds the drivers side was plenty hot the passenger side is cold you literally can touch while it's running.
The truck sounds like it's only running on 4 cylinders it has gotten so bad I parked the truck. Also this truck always had poor mpg 8 to be exact city hwy and towing nothing changed the mpg at all it used to blow out wet soot that would fall down on the truck and anyone standing near it.
Mods unknown pcu program 4in straight pipe with 12in stack harpoon mod in tank
I am a mechanic and tow operator running a late 99 f350 7.3 6 speed cab and chassis wrecker. This truck has had a hard life and has been neglected for quite some time, and now has become my baby/headache. Truck starts great, idles nice, and will run great for about 5 minutes until it starts billowing white smoke that smells like fuel and loses all power. If you continue to drive it it will die. Sounds like it's dropping cylinders and will barely idle. If you stop for 5 minutes or so and let it idle it will smooth back out and will run great again for another minute or two, then right back to stumbling.
Using torque app, hpop pressure looks good when it's running well. Peaks at 3k, IPR maintaining 30-40% max. As soon as it stumbles you can see the hpop drop to 5-600 and the IPR will climb to 65%. Let it idea bit and they go back to normal, and stay good until it stumbles again.
Ive changed the fuel pump, ICP,rebuilt FPR, change fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the fuel tank (metal tank, no delamination, looks perfect inside). Pickup screen looked good. Cleaned the IPR, cleaned the hpop reservoir, there was no screen inside. Checked voltage at fuel pump, 11.78 across the pump with it running. Pulled valve covers, no noticeable leaks around injectors. Injectors have less than 5k miles. Remans with 100% larger tips.
To me it seems like the lpop is not keeping up with the hpop under load, starving it until you idle and let it catch up. Could it still be bad injector orings? Bad lpop? Something I'm not thinking of?
I'm checking all places to look for a fuel leak. I park on a concrete slab, with no drips.
I have already mopped up as much fluid from the valley from recently having all of the injectors replaced. I still need to clean it further with simple green, and stuff white paper towel in the valley so I can really know if there is a leak.
3 years ago I replaced the water drain valve o rings, but I suppose they could have gone bad again.