Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Regulated Return Fuel Bowl Delete
Aug 10, 2016
I want to build a fuel bowl delete/regulated return fuel system for my 2000 f250 . I would like to make a really neat kit and attach all products used so people that want to build their own would have a useful source. I understand that it will probably cost the same but I want to design my own and route it the way I want . I have 3/8 1/2 5/16 and 1/4 stainless tubing as well as a bunch of unions and 90* 45* fittings and a couple tees. What size is the ports for the fuel lines that go into the four corners of the heads . I am a pipe fitter pipe welder by trade so this is basically a mini version of what I do everyday at work. Looking for some size details of the head port sizes so I can get the correct fittings?
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New to me early 99 (4/98) f350 7.3 6 speed. Truck started acting up a few days after I bought it. Return line at fuel bowl was leaking, so started there and found a bad seal on the Fpr (unrelated to the fuel leak due to disentegrated compression sleeve). Fast forward through a bunch of parts swapping that still resulted in miserable lift pump pressure readings, I pull the sending unit out of the tank, expecting to find a plugged screen.
Well, there was in fact a plugged screen... Attached to the bottom of an in-tank pump. How did that get there?!? Everything I've read says there should only be a pickup tube??? Should I get a new sending unit from a junkyard and do the hutch mod or???
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Trying to fit my edge fuel pressure sensor. I have a 90* fitting from Diesel O-rings and I can't seem to get the 90 elbow to turn all the way down before it makes contact with the fuel bowl housing. I'm using the drivers side port, should I use the passenger side port? would it have more clearance than the driver side port?
My instinct is to crank it all the way down then tighten the nut, should I just screw it in until it makes contact then tighten the nut? I was worried it wouldn't have enough threads in contact to seal as well as it should and leak.
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I've had an engine oil leak for some time. Recently I've had to add about a quart a month. I got some fluorescent dye and added it to the engine oil last time I added a quart. Ran the engine for a few weeks. Then cleaned the engine valley with cleaner and hot water.
Tonight I investigated the top of the engine with a black light. To my surprise, the oil leak is coming from the fuel bowl, right around the drain valve. I can clearly see about a drop every 3 seconds of fluorescent yellow liquid falling into the valley below and yellow all around the valve.
I expected a leak from the HPOP not the fuel bowl. Do I have a bigger problem? Is engine oil getting into the fuel? I plan to replace the seals in the fuel bowl, but not until I know whether I have a larger problem to address.
2001 F250 Crewcab, 220,000 miles
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I've thought I smelt diesel fuel on an off for a while, but never found the source.
Tonight, 17 degrees out I have fuel in the valley and it appears as if the back of the drain valve is wet.
A fuel bowl rebuild is on the short list. Is this typical, the cold weather brings the issue to light?
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Had the ole factory fuel separator/bowl drain start leaking on me about a month back. So i ordered and installed a new one, issue fixed. Well last night the fuel leak started again, I looked everywhere and i cant see anywhere else it may be leaking at. I felt the underside of said piece and it didn't feel wet, but the valley is full of fuel.
I got in there and tightened the 4 bolts down some more, they were tight but i got a some turns on em and am hoping i either didn't tighten it down enough or they maybe backed out some. Now just gotta see if that solves the problem, again.... the replacement is a doorman, the o-rings were bigger/thicker than the factory orings on the old part, of which the o-rings were shot.
Like I said once i replaced the part the leak stopped for 3 weeks until last night. If the tightening of the bolts doesn't solve it where should I look next? I have an FRX mod but i checked all that and its dry as a bone around all the fittings by the bowl and the heads. No indications of leaks anywhere around any of the FRX assembly.
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I just changed the drain valve on the fuel filter bowl. All went well and no more leak, but now I am getting an "emission system" warning light.
After I replaced the valve, I filled the fuel bowl with diesel fuel. Was there any other priming that needed to be done (if any)? What the emission system warning light may mean?
2002 F250 7.3L 4x4.
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My fuel bowel drain valve is leaking again. I plan to do the hutch mod in the next month or so. Have the kit already. So I can't do the fuel bowel delete yet. it seems one of the mount holes for the drain Valve is stripped. The top rh screw won't snug up. I swapped out the orings and it still leaks. I'm sure it's from that screw. So I'm thinking about a flange bolt and an oring from the inside of the fuel bowel. It's going to be a temporary fix.
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I am rebuilding the oil cooler and noticed since its removed I have great access to this fuel line pair from fuel bowl to soft lines below. How these disconnect at the soft lines? I happen to have a new set waiting to be installed. Is there a tool required ?
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2003 6.0 no start. turn the key to on and nothing happens. dash lights up as it should but I don't hear the glow plugs cycle and no fuel gets into the upper fuel bowl. turn the key over and nothing happens. No starter click nothing. tried the starter wire to the battery trick and it cranks but does not kick over. checked ficm wires and they are secure as well as the injector wire on the intake manifold. it is the original ficm.
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While my turbo is out I decided to delete the EBPV. I removed the butterfly and rod, & pounded in some 3/4 inch freeze plugs. Are there any mods that need to be done to the pedestal, or can I just leave it the EBPV plunger unhooked? It's not leaking, but will it leak if left unhooked? Or do I have to gut it and tig weld the oil gallery's
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2001 F350 just rebuilt the turbo, did the EBPV delete now no power.
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Should the upper fuel bowl be empty after sitting for 30 minutes?
I believe no. Which would indicate to me a stuck open injector which Iv been suspected of. Iv been trying to track down a miss that I have and Iv been suspicious of a bad injector but ain't been able to pinpoint which one yet.
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I bought a 99 f350 truck. it has a van turbo and exhaust back pressure delete. The truck wont make more than 3 PSI of boost. Ive got a p1690 wastegate actuator circuit code. unplugging the waste actuator does nothing. With the van turbo, is the actuator required? Is this code stopping the ecu from fueling and creating boost? I did a cylinder balance test, and cylinder 8 failed. Is a single injector not quite balanced enough to make it not boost past 3 psi? The turbo appears brand new (previous owner said it was), charge pipes hold pressure (tested), EBP Sensor tube is clean (shows up to 24 psi). I tested the wastegate actuator, OnDemand5 says if its over 50 ohms, its bad and replace it. its 69.5 ohms. Again, i dont want to replace it if i dont have to, as its not being used (no wastegate on van turbo), but if the ecu is preventing it from spooling because of the solenoid, ill change it.
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2004 F550 with a 6.0. I had to clean out my fuel tank, replace the HFCM and filter on top of the engine. When I start the truck it will run for 30 seconds or so, start running rough then die. I opened the cap on the fuel filter housing on top of the engine to make sure the fuel was getting there. I turned the key on and the fuel bowl quickly filled up.
After a short time however, the fuel drained out. To where I do not know. I don't think this is normal as every time I've changed the upper filter on a 6.0 it is always full of fuel. Why could this one be draining out and could that be the issue why the truck dies after starting and running for a short period of time. I changed the o-ring on the cap and the new HFCM was purchased from Ford.
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I have an isspro gauge and did the blue spring about 5 years ago. Since then my fuel pressure is in the 65psi range.
Last week it dropped to 50-55 normal driving and I figured the HFCM was on it's way out (195,000 miles). Replaced the HFCM and the pressure was a bit higher, but not back to it's usual range. Then pulling the boat home from the lake a couple days ago, I saw it at 45psi. On a couple hills it went as low as 40 psi, so I was getting gripped...coasting downhill it only went back up to 50 psi and no higher. Got 'er home and currently not driving it.
In garage with Key On Engine Off, during injector buzz, I can hear a hissing/air noise at the upper filter bowl. Also, the bowl drains empty once the pump cuts off and the sound of air stops too.
I am hoping it's a regulator issue, but I don't know if they are known to wear out or go bad, or if something else in the upper filter housing went bad. So I ordered a new upper fuel filter housing which also has the oil filter tower attached and I'm assuming that these new units would come with the blue spring upgrade already done.
I can check for codes tomorrow when I bring my computer home from work, so I haven't checked for codes yet. I pick up the new filter housing tomorrow and will periodically check back here during the day tomorrow.
Also, while I'm at it: the new HFCM doesn't have the heater. Can I just leave the old connector from the harness un-connected to anything?
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My HPOP was leaking so I pulled it our last weekend along with the fuel bowl and put all new seals in. All my previous leaks are sealed but now this stupid fuel bowl is being a major PIA.
The return line coming off the FPR will not stop leaking! It was slowly dripping when I first replaced the bowl and I thought the leak was between the fuel bowl and FPR housing. I ordered new rings and put it back together.... still leaking.
I wrapped a towel around the fuel fitting and realized that is were the leak is actually coming from. I went to the parker store today and got 3 new 60VL5 sleeves. The first one tore while sling over the fuel line (I was using 2cycle oil as lubricate). The second one leaked even worse.
In a desperate attempt to stop the leak, I slid the sleeve onto the fuel line as far back as it would go. I inserted the fuel line into the bowl and then put a thin coat of rtv on the exposed fuel line. I slid the sleeve over the rtv and then put a light coat of the outside of the sleeve. I tightened the nut up and am waiting for things to dry before trying again.
Why is this fitting giving me such a hard time? I've pulled the FPR housing and it is not cracked so I don't know what the deal is.
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Just recently i have noticed my truck acting up. the other day at about 10 to 20 mph i made a 90 degree turn and noticed my steering wheel wouldn't return but i had to bring it back. than this morning the same thing happened. I made a 90 degree left hand turn and it happened again. the truck wanted to keep going left but i kept turning right. it almost feels like my power steering pump is going out. The pump was changed about 4 years 90k miles ago. I'm curious to see what others have to say. What could it be????
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When I went to do my fuel filters tonight I found that the Fuel Return Tube had broken. I have the Ford part number 3c3z-9t289-AA and was looking to see what is the IH part number. I think I'll pick up that oil filter assembly too.
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I have an 03 f250 6.0 150k milage and lately my A/C has not been working at its best. Its intermittent, and for some reason it will work fine until i get on the highway and it just blows hot air. Would this be a leak or clutch issue? One thing I have noticed if my oil/coolant is above 200 the A/C will blow hot air but not return to cold when the temperatures return to normal. I haven't done any trouble shooting so my first thing ill check are the fuses. As far as the compressor goes its an alien object to me I have never had A/C issues with any vehicle i have owned.
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Ok. I have a 2015 6.7 power stroke and my fuel return line clip keeps falling off. And goes into limp mode. It has happen twice and in come up with code p0088. And I push it back on start the truck and it is fine. But idk why it is doing it
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