Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Fuel Bowel Drain Delete Or Plug Up?
Feb 13, 2016
My fuel bowel drain valve is leaking again. I plan to do the hutch mod in the next month or so. Have the kit already. So I can't do the fuel bowel delete yet. it seems one of the mount holes for the drain Valve is stripped. The top rh screw won't snug up. I swapped out the orings and it still leaks. I'm sure it's from that screw. So I'm thinking about a flange bolt and an oring from the inside of the fuel bowel. It's going to be a temporary fix.
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I am currently doing my injectors. Just a quick question. I was trying to get the fuel rail drain plug out but it stripped, actually not on the driver side stripped. I know there is the drain plug on the back of the cylinder. If I drain that and turn the crank over by hand will that drain all the oil and fuel that has drained into the cylinder? I'm really not trying to bend a rod when I turn this thing over. It's A 2001 7.3
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I tried a steel with rubber insert washer, but it still leaks. I might have overtightened or something. It seemed good for a while. Who has a solution for this leak?
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I want to build a fuel bowl delete/regulated return fuel system for my 2000 f250 . I would like to make a really neat kit and attach all products used so people that want to build their own would have a useful source. I understand that it will probably cost the same but I want to design my own and route it the way I want . I have 3/8 1/2 5/16 and 1/4 stainless tubing as well as a bunch of unions and 90* 45* fittings and a couple tees. What size is the ports for the fuel lines that go into the four corners of the heads . I am a pipe fitter pipe welder by trade so this is basically a mini version of what I do everyday at work. Looking for some size details of the head port sizes so I can get the correct fittings?
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I broke my radiator drain plug got a replacement but how does the stock one come out? Is there a clip or something?
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Here is what's going on. A few days ago I noticed my oil pressure gauge drop and come back up as I was shifting from reverse to drive. Then a few days later on my way home from work I noticed that when the truck was warmed up and I was stopped at idle the oil pressure gauge would drop to zero and the oil pressure light would come on.. Once I gave it throttle the pressure gauge would go back to normal. After researching for the night the next morning I started the truck cold (around 35 degrees) and watched the oil pressure gauge. It was fine until the temperature came up then once I hit the brake to stop the high idle the gauge dropped to 0 and the oil pressure light came on. If I gave it any throttle the oil pressure would come up to normal but soon as I let off the pressure would drop off again.
I drained the oil, removed the oil cooler, and checked the oil pressure regulator to find it in normal operating condition. My new orings and gaskets won't be here until Monday so I cleaned up for the day. When picking up the oil drain plug I noticed quite a bit of metal shavings on it. I cut open the oil filter and found more shavings in it. Not a bunch but a few in every opening. I have read about a lot of issues where piston cooling jets fall off and cause my issues. I tried hitting the oil pan with a dead blow hammer and listening for the jet but don't hear it. This is the first time I have changed the oil since buying the truck and am wondering if it was found the last time the oil was changed and the reason for them selling the truck. I'm going to put a bore scope through the oil drain plug today and look for the piston cooling jets or anything not normal. Then when the oil cooler gaskets get here I plan to install them and a mechanical oil pressure gauge. To see what the pressure really is.
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Had the ole factory fuel separator/bowl drain start leaking on me about a month back. So i ordered and installed a new one, issue fixed. Well last night the fuel leak started again, I looked everywhere and i cant see anywhere else it may be leaking at. I felt the underside of said piece and it didn't feel wet, but the valley is full of fuel.
I got in there and tightened the 4 bolts down some more, they were tight but i got a some turns on em and am hoping i either didn't tighten it down enough or they maybe backed out some. Now just gotta see if that solves the problem, again.... the replacement is a doorman, the o-rings were bigger/thicker than the factory orings on the old part, of which the o-rings were shot.
Like I said once i replaced the part the leak stopped for 3 weeks until last night. If the tightening of the bolts doesn't solve it where should I look next? I have an FRX mod but i checked all that and its dry as a bone around all the fittings by the bowl and the heads. No indications of leaks anywhere around any of the FRX assembly.
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I just changed the drain valve on the fuel filter bowl. All went well and no more leak, but now I am getting an "emission system" warning light.
After I replaced the valve, I filled the fuel bowl with diesel fuel. Was there any other priming that needed to be done (if any)? What the emission system warning light may mean?
2002 F250 7.3L 4x4.
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Is this job worth doing as a preventative maintenance item? I replaced the rear fuel rail plug (aka banjo bolt) o-rings because they were very easy to get to with the up-pipes out. But the cylinder head plug in the rear is pretty high up and even with the up-pipes out, there isn't enough room to get a breaker in there that's long enough and has enough movement to loosen it. The front would be easier to get to, but both accessory brackets need to come off to get to them on both sides.
As far as I know, none of them leak but they're all 17 years old... BTW in case you haven't been following, I'm doing up-pipes, injectors, turbo, rebuilt HPOP & fuel bowl, boots & clamps, etc. so I'm trying to knock out any PM items while I have it apart.
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While my turbo is out I decided to delete the EBPV. I removed the butterfly and rod, & pounded in some 3/4 inch freeze plugs. Are there any mods that need to be done to the pedestal, or can I just leave it the EBPV plunger unhooked? It's not leaking, but will it leak if left unhooked? Or do I have to gut it and tig weld the oil gallery's
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2001 F350 just rebuilt the turbo, did the EBPV delete now no power.
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I bought a 99 f350 truck. it has a van turbo and exhaust back pressure delete. The truck wont make more than 3 PSI of boost. Ive got a p1690 wastegate actuator circuit code. unplugging the waste actuator does nothing. With the van turbo, is the actuator required? Is this code stopping the ecu from fueling and creating boost? I did a cylinder balance test, and cylinder 8 failed. Is a single injector not quite balanced enough to make it not boost past 3 psi? The turbo appears brand new (previous owner said it was), charge pipes hold pressure (tested), EBP Sensor tube is clean (shows up to 24 psi). I tested the wastegate actuator, OnDemand5 says if its over 50 ohms, its bad and replace it. its 69.5 ohms. Again, i dont want to replace it if i dont have to, as its not being used (no wastegate on van turbo), but if the ecu is preventing it from spooling because of the solenoid, ill change it.
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After checking my fuel bowl today for contaminants, I put the lid back on and then noticed a leak from the rear at drain valve. I know, I already ordered the orings. It was doing one drip about every three seconds with the truck running. However, I turned the yellow thing a couple times and the leak stopped. Not leaking right now. Maybe it wasn't shut from previous owner.
Second question.....After stopping leak and after routing my fuel drain hose, I decided to give it a try. No luck. Nothing out or drain. Based on my first fuel filter change, it may be clogged up. So, do I run wire from the bottom up? Or do I run wire from top (bowl) down? Just so you know, sucked the bowl dry with a vacuum device before I reinstalled the filter.
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How common is it for the hpop to leak from the round piece behind the pump next to the drain bolt? Its on a 2000 f350 7.3.
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Just did an egr delete, oil cooler, icp sensor and exhaust on an 03 f250 6.0l. got it all back together and it cranked up and ran for about 30 seconds then stumbled and died. read to pull out the ipr sensor and check it and it had a piece of debris on it covering the screen. took of the debris and still no start.
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If I leave my truck sit for a couple of days, the batteries are noticeably weaker. It's fine overnight, but two nights and it's slow to crank. Three and it won't start without charging the batteries. I checked for a drain last night and found that it was drawing 1.2 amps.
That seems like a lot, no?
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On the back of my truck I have two plugs to operate trailer lights/brakes etc but I only use one. The one I'm not using (pictured) I'd like to adapt for aux power in the trailer to operate some IP cameras. I need to know about the pin outs of this connector and what gauge wire to use between the trailer and truck. I plan on running the 12V and ground conductors from this plug through an adapter into the trailer.
In the trailer I'll have a 1000W inverter --> UPS --> TL-WR810N Router --> TL-SG1008P POE switch --> and 4 small ip cams.
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So my 7.3 started sputtering and lost power, died on the side of the road. I wasn't far from home put about 8 gallon of diesel in the tank with a couple of fuel jugs and it fired right up.
Gauge was reading 1/8 of a tank and low fuel light did not come on. (low fuel light comes on when you start) Gauge came up to about 1/2 after putting fuel in.
What happened? Gauge was always reliable and low fuel light always did work. Only work done to fuel system was had new tank straps put on a couple of months ago.
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Just wondering if your fuel drain valve leaks at the knob when you are draining for water? I opened mine yesterday to drain it for the first time and fuel went EVERYWHERE!! Unlike the 6.4 that I was able to use a bottle to capture the fuel in, my 6.7 leaks around the knob and comes out the drain port. After some very colorful words, I got it drained and then closed. I mean, why put a drain port on it if it is going to come out around the know and soak you.
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01 7.3. Cranks, won't start. Tank was at 1/4 but is full now. The lift pump runs, I can feel and hear that the motor is spinning when I cycle the key. I removed the fuel filter and cycled the key and get no fuel into the bowl. It looks like the lines are stainless from the pump to the tank so I doubt it is sucking air. I pressurized the tank with a shop vac and I get fuel coming into the filter housing. Am I missing something obvious? I have never seen an electric pump that would run and not pump fuel. I removed the suction line at the pump and don't feel any suction there.
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I'm getting ready to change the glow plugs in my dad's e99, 196k on the clock. When I pulled the air intake tubes I found some oil in the turbo:
The inlet tube also had a bunch of gunk in it too:
Does this look like it is caused by the PCVor is it a bigger issue?
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