Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Signal Light Will Not Work Occasionally While Making A Right Hand Turn
Jun 22, 2016
On the final stages of prepping my truck for sale. I noticed today that occasionally while making a right hand turn the signal light will not work when you put the lever in the locked position (no dashboard arrow to the right and no front/rear light). I can pull the stalk upward, but not lock it, and it always works correctly. I am thinking a bit of corrosion on a switch, but I thought I would check and see if others have run into this.
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Was making a U-turn, and out of no where, had no brakes and no steering.. Not a fun situation to be in....
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I've been having an electrical issue for the past few months that I've decided to address now that the weather is getting a little warmer.
What happened is the left turn signal was blinking fast, so I assumed bad bulb, and later that day it stopped blinking fast and now I press the lever down to indicate a left turn and there is a quite loud buzzing sound. Sounds like it's coming from where the relays are, but I've replaced them and the bulbs and still nothing has changed.
I've also replaced the multifunction switch to see if that was an issue, but a new one did the same thing so I returned it.
Running lights work all around, but now there are no left blinkers, and also my left brake light doesn't come on. Pulling a trailer I have the same problem, I had the plug tested and only 3 of the pins have anything to them.
I know nothing about auto electrical systems.
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My wife's 2003 sportrac has developed a problem. The left rear turn signal brake light will not work. The tail light does. When you turn on the left turn signal the front bulb and the dash light flashes real fast. I have changed both, the front and rear bulbs with no luck. I've read on here about the tilt steering column deal. I have moved the steering column while operating the turn signal with no change.
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The past few weeks the dashboard warning light for my alternator/battery will occasionally light up while driving down the road. Whenever it does, my plug in voltage meter shows a healthy 14.x reading. It usually goes out after a few seconds, but will stay lit up for as much as thirty seconds. So other than voltage being too high or too low, what else will cause the dash trouble light to illuminate?
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I have checked all wires for krosion and fuse's are good so confused! Just put brand new tail lights bulbs in! The top one comes on as a running light but nothing else works. I also checked under hood fuses too!
1.Only Hazard light that works is on the Right Front passenger side.
2 Drivers side Brake Light & Turn Signal Doesn't Work. But passenger works fine! Left turn signal is out and blinks really fast!
3.Passenger Side Overhead Outside Light on cab is out . Okay that's probably just a bulb!
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I have 1999 Ford F-150 xlt and on the passenger side the brake and turn signal don't work but reverse light does. On the driver's side, everything works so I switch bulbs and outlets and it still doesn't work but two of the wires for trailer hook up and cut. I was wondering if that had anything to do with that.
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I have an early 1999 Ford F350 4x4 7.3. I purchased it used about a year ago. The trans was replaced with an ATS 4R100 and a billet torque converter. I have the paperwork for it to confirm it along with the mileage when it was installed. It currently has about 35k on the new trans.
Several months ago the trans heated up to about 200 degrees on my trans temp gauge that was already installed when I purchased it. Not a huge deal and after pulled over and high idling it off I went and no problems.
About a month ago I was towing my fifth wheel when I noticed the temp rising on a level grade. I also noticed the OD light flashing. I made it home and when I went to drive it the next day light was not flashing and it shifted and drove like normal without the trailer.
I towed the trailer again and same thing, OD light flashing and started heating up. I changed all the fluid and flushed it based on the trans flush procedure I got in this forum and replaced with an OEM trans filter. Towed the next day and everything was good. Temp was good and no OD light flashing but I lost 4th gear. All other gears shifted fine, no slipping, just won't go into 4th.
On my way back home the OD light started flashing again and instantly the heat started rising on the trans again. I was finally able to get it into 4th if I let off a little, but as soon as the OD light started flashing I lost it again.
I have a friend of a friend who works for Ford who offered to come over to hook his scanner up. When he hooked it up there was no stored codes from the OD light which we both thought was odd. Took it for a test drive and the OD light started flashing so we could get some readings. He said it showed an error shifting from 1 to 2 and another error when shifting from 3 to 4. I unfortunately forgot to ask him for the specific codes. He tried to read the torque converter info but said my truck was to old and the PID was not supported to read that info.
He said it appeared it was mechanical but without some type of break out box where he can physically shift the gears he couldn't say for sure if it was mechanical or electrical. He did not seem to interested in doing that test for me as he rebuilds trans on the side and said he could rebuild it for me.
It seems my overheating takes place when the OD light starts flashing. It still drives fine and shifts smooth with no issues with or without the OD light flashing. 4th gear usually doesn't work but on a rare occasion it will go into 4th fine which makes me believe it may be electrical.
I am new to diesels but have learned a lot about my 7.3 lately. I recently installed injectors, up pipes, hutch mod, and several other little things so I can get things done myself but am just a DIY'er who can follow good directions. I know very little to nothing about transmissions though.
While working on another issue I did notice there is a large wiring harness that connects up on the driver side of the trans. I unplugged it and was checking the wires and after removing the dirt and crud on it you could see the outside wire sheathing had deteriorated exposing the copper. I bought some liquid electrical tape and sealed everything up. I did look for a replacement wire harness at the time and the one I ordered was very similar but the plug was different so that is why I used the liquid tape at the time. I did not seem to have a problem at the time after fixing it but wanted to mention it here in case that may be an issue.
I also thought swapping out the solenoid pack may fix it. I did not want to drop the trans and send it for a rebuild if I did not need to. I know there are some other sensors associated with the trans like the TSS I think but don't know if they are even related to my issue.
I tried getting the codes from the guy but he does not have them and I can't get him back out. I have an OBDlink device connected to Torque on my phone but I couldn't get it to read trans codes. Could be user error.
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Made my right hand turn . Truck shut down. Will turn over no start. Cannot hear fuel pump turn on.
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Airbag light flashes on dash and then stays on. Cruise control and horn wont work. I cant find a blown fuse.
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I now have a 2002, 7.3, 250, 4x4 and love it. Everything but the milege. All in all it's a great ride. I have one little problem that's driven me nuts.
The power windows and the radio go out occasionally. Both at the same time. They come back on...... sometimes. Sometimes it takes a day or two. I've checked the fuses and then saw that there is a breaker in the 601 location in the fuse box that's probably causing the problem.
But I thought that it was supposed to shut off to protect that circuit when there is a short somewhere. I don't know where to go or how to locate the short if in fact this is my problem.
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I have a 2001 F250 (Platinum Edition). I purchased about a year ago. The water in fuel light came on. I ran an additive to remove water and changed the fuel filter several times. Light still on. How to turn it off? I missing something? Only fuel filter I see sits on top of engine...
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I have a 2004 F150 XLT and the passenger side tail light doesn't work whatsoever. The light does work for hazards, turn signal, or when braking. The passenger front turn signal works, so does the front and the driver sides tail light. Only the 1 tail light doesn't work. I bought a new brake light bulb and it didnt't fix it, so i swapped the drivers and passengers bulbs out, and it still didn't work. I replaced the 10 amp fuse (#36) in the fuse box. What is causing the problem.
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So a few weeks back, i went to the store after work, came out and my truck just cranked and cranked but wouldn't turn over. I simply turned the key off and back on, waited for the WTS light to go out and she started up. I just blew it off, thinking i didn't wait long enough to start it.
Then, later that week i come out of a restaurant and it cranks and cranks but doesn't start. i tried turning the key off and on, waiting 30 seconds between em and still nothing. Then a few minutes later, i try again and she fires up, no problems and runs like a champ.
Well 2 fridays ago, I go out with some buddies, go to leave and it happens again. Cranks and cranks, but not starting. I got a ride to my place, grabbed a fuel filter, thinking maybe its clogged, it's been awhile since i changed it. I got back to my truck, and it started up fine, without changing the filter.
Then last night as i am out of town, 10 hours away from home it happens again. And i kept trying and trying and trying but it never wanted to start. I was about to submit my payment for the Uber back to my hotel when i decide to try it again and it fired right up.
Now I'm kind of afraid to drive anywhere and shut off my truck in fear of being stranded. What could be causing this? I've looked every where and havent found someone with the exact same problem, usually when i find a thread on turning over but not starting, the truck dies once it runs as well. Mine doesn't. when it starts, she runs great.
No smoke coming out the tail pipe when cranking.
WTS light comes on and off as it should.
Tach does not move, and it won't because it's a 2002.
Where to start, would the CPS cause it to act this way? It only seems to do it when the engine is warm.
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I have a 2002 excursion 7.3L. It has started dying lately after I let off of the pedal and the vehicle slows down and the engine is supposed to go to idle but sometimes it dies. It will start back up right away. It has begun to start a little rougher especially after it dies. I have replace the CPS and I got new batteries.
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I did some reading on here this morning and ended up at 1A Auto looking for mirrors. I want to make sure I get the correct thing before ordering. I have a '04 250 with factory tow mirrors that are power mirror and turn signal/clearance light. I want to upgrade to the '08 style. Which of these would work? I would think either, but I'm not sure about the wiring harness?
Search Results for 1AMRP01095 - 1A Auto
2008-10 Ford Mirror Pair - 1AMRP01096 at 1A Auto.com
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2013 f-250 crew cab short box, 6.2 gas with 48k miles. Right rear turn signal does not work...SOMETIMES. I took the brake light assembly off...bulb is good, turned on signal and the bulb will flash so I put it back together then drove a couple miles and then signal quits working again. I can't find any loose/corroded/bad wires at the bulb socket and I can't get the bulb to quit working when I have taillight assembly apart, (trying to replicate failure). There are never any blown fuses either.
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I have a 02 PSD, and sometimes after I start it up my radio and power windows do not work. I have a red "security" light on my Kenwood radio that turns on when the truck is off. That light keeps flashing after I turned on the truck so I know it's still getting power, but for some reason it thinks the truck is off, and the windows don't go down. Other days it works perfectly fine, sometimes the radio and windows will stop working after driving normal.
At first it was a routine where I knew they'd start working shortly. But today was the last straw, I drove into work with no radio and windows not rolling down for 30 miles. Of course after I park, I turn off the truck, turn it back on and everything comes on like nothing ever happened. What can be causing this, I have checked all the wiring, no kinks, cuts, nothing. I remember reading something about a relay that can cause this but can't find that info.
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I have an 03 accord EX. The right turn signal doesnt work at all. I have changed the bulbs and the fuse. The left signal works just fine, while the right doesn't work front or back and the indicator light on the dash doesnt come on or click. Same happens when I put on the hazards. Its like there is no power at all to that side...
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After disassembling what felt like the whole front end of the truck, I finally gain access to the danged thing. Mine has been acting up intermittently for about year and half I guess. When flipping to switch to signal turning, it started making a buzzing sound. At first it was doing it most of the time. Then it cleared up and started working right for several months, then act up, the act right. Well, now it makes the buzzing noise more often than not so i decided to address it. I went to Oreilly, they didn't have one, but told me the part number.
I went across the street to Autozone, that had one on the shelf that was same part number as Oreilly. I put it in and when flipping the switch, the relay does it tick tock sounds like its working, except for there is no indication on the dash cluster that its working, nor are the actual lights working. I swap back to original and buzzing, put in new one and tick tock but no lights. Whats the deal? Is this one of those things that you have to go back to Ford? Or maybe i got a bum relay from parts house and should exchange for another to see if it works?
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I have a 2002 7.3L Screw 4x4. Will a 03/04 6.0L instrument cluster work in this truck? The 2 clusters appear identical. I put the 6.0 cluster in and the trans temp, and coolant temp gauge will not work. All the gauges sweep when it is powered on, but the coolant and trans temp lay flat, and the check gauge light is on. All other gauges and functions work. When I put my other cluster in, all gauges work fine. Is there a difference in the VSM, PCM, or the SCP communication?
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