Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Stalling Out And Dropping Power Randomly


Aug 18, 2017

So the truck has been stalling out and dropping power randomly, symptoms pointed to needing the 50 cent mod, changed the cps for cheap insurance and peace of mind just in case it wasn't the uvch, no dice. So last night I yanked valve covers for the first time here's what I did while I was under there, check my work.

1st I ohmed out injectors thru the 42pin harness according to tuglys sig link. My meter would only go down to a 0.4 when testing the test leads just to each other

DS injector ohms
#2 3.5
#4 3.4
#6 3.6
#8 3.6

PS injector ohms
#1 3.6
#3 3.6
#5 3.5
#7 3.6

DS glow plug ohms
#2 prong to ground 2" away 0.9 ; white connecting wire back to gp relay 0.3
#4 0.9 wire to relay 0.5
#6 infinity ohms up thru highest meter setting, checked multiple times and different ground spots,(replacing tonight) wire to relay 0.5
#8 0.5 wire to relay 0.5

PS glow plug ohms
#1 1.0 ; white wire back to relay 0.6
#3 infinity multiple tests as well (replacing tonight) wire to relay 0.5
#5 0.9 wire to relay 0.6
#7 1.0 wire to relay 0.7

Next up, ebp sensor was reading 1.9 higher than map/baro koeo, gently cleaning sensor earlier didn't work. Installed new motorcraft, will check it with Torque pro koeo once the batteries are reconnected

Next I checked the uvch connections which felt good, darn it, maybe a smidge of movement from the DS, but nothing halfway disconnected or anything. Hmm. I ground down the quarters to the top of his head and installed.

Next I torqued down the 4 bolts per cylinder of the rocker arms at 20 ft/lbs, all were perfect and snug

Next up, injector torque. I've read on here below 50, or 80 in/lbs depending on different threads and opinions that I would need to replace o-rings.

So I set the in/lb click torque wrench at 50 in/# and tested the wrench's click on the higher torqued rocker bolts, then checked all the injectors, all were good

Reset for 80in/lbs, tested, then hit all injectors, #6 almost budged but clicked immediately before the handle moved
Reset for 100 in/lb, tested on larger bolt, 2 injectors took a 1/8 turn;
Reset for official spec of 120 in/lb , tested wrench, all injectors took 1/3 to 1 full turn
Reset for 130 in/lb (above official spec, but highly recommended on here by those way more knowledgeable than me on our engines) tested on a larger bolt, slowly and carefully gave all injectors almost an extra 1/2 turn to click; whew, finally a relaxed sphincter.

At this point I knew I needed to buy 2 glow plugs today, replace, then I'll check all glow plug torque at 14 ft/lb in one go, so I got everything ready for a hot torque after I do glow plugs tonight ("unloaded" the torque wrenches) and finally installed the RiffRaff AIH delete plug. My cell phone's alarm went off to get the kids ready for school, so hit the snooze and got everything put up. Now for a nap, then buy 2 Motorcraft GP and check back on here before going back at it tonight.

I also checked the turbo for play in all directions, was nicely solid and spun smooth, no wheel damage. Up pipes and well basically everything exhaust under hood had zero signs of soot/leaks with inspection mirror.

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Voltage coming into for was also 12.5V. When glow plugs activated I am getting 11V on the other side of the gpr. After cycling glow plugs battery voltages drop to 9.6V during cranking and as soon as she starts back to 12.5V.

Do these numbers sounds right? In my opinion isn't the drop to 9.6V during cranking a little low or is that the normal?

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I replaced the normal culprits after a lot of searching on here:

CPS - replaced with autozone part, thought maybe it was bad new so went to ford and replaced with official part from the dealer
ICP - had oil in the plug and it would idle better removed so I replaced the plug and as much wire as I could - soldered, heat shrunk, good connections - both the pigtail and sensor came from Ford dealer
IPR - replaced with part from the Ford Dealer (FYI - 1 1/8" 1/2" drive craftsman deep socket from sears fit in the ratchet and on the part).
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I'm thinking it may be some electrical issue/short or a fuel issue at this point, bowl is full and the filter is fairly new (few thousand miles). I haven't done the Hutch mod, but have over 1/2 a tank.

I'm trying to get this going as quick as I can so I don't want to waste too much time, but I also don't want to miss a critical troubleshooting step to take.

Below are my thoughts on the next steps.

Research and test fuel pressure
Tow it somewhere to test each injector - I only have Torque pro to read codes and engine status
If fuel delivery checks out ok, start testing wire by wire on all of the above parts.

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