Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Transmission Malfunction - Got Code P0705?
Jan 2, 2016
I was pulling the I-40 ascent to Asheville today while empty, got to the top and started down the other side got to semi flat road and the tach suddenly went up about 600 rpm's. Transmission temp about 180*F. I let off, then resumed and everything was fine. About a mile later it happened again. This time the tranny lost 3rd and OD, still had 1st, 2nd, and Reverse. So, we limped into a service station. Temps hovered in the 170-180 range. At this point there are no codes, no lights, O/D is not flashing.
I shut the truck down to check fluid level and current condition. Everything was fine last night. Fluid level is still good and fluid is still red and clean. I changed fluid about 2k ago and the fluid coming out looked almost as good as the fluid going in.
Got back in the truck started it up, checked for codes and got a P0705, put the truck in gear to get to a diesel shop down the road and everything was fine, shifted completely normally through all the gears. This lasted until about 1 mile from home and then the same thing happened all over again. Fluid still looks clean, not burned, still no CEL, no flashing O/D, but only have 1st, 2nd, and Reverse.
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I bought it 4 years ago with 205K, swapped trans fluid.. 10k miles later (I don't drive it a lot ). I am throwing the code P0750 Shift A malfunction.. i figured id swap the solenoid pack since I am pretty handy and it was affordable.. but it didn't seem to do the trick.. it drove around the block good for 5 minutes before it started shifting weird and throwing a code again.. almost seems to be slipping... I still have to check fluid level again and scan the code again but any suggestions? I have an apt to go to the tranny shop this week and would like to avoid the big bucks if possible.
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This is what I get from the DTC .....
DTC P0705
Description : transmission range sensor circuit malfunction
State : History
I have done some google search on the above diagnostic trouble code P0705 and as i understood , it indicates that the Engine Control Module (ECM) has received an input error from the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS).
Since the check engine light illuminated two times (two separate occasion) then it turns off now; the ECM is actually receiving input signal from the TRS.
So that leads me to think that the TRS is actually working but the problem might be one of the following two:
1- Open or short in the TRS circuit?
2- Dirty transmission fluid.
What do you think the steps i should do first of all ? how would i check the transmission fluid since my vehicle has no transmission fluid dipstick. My driving condition would fall into "severe" category and it reached 60,000 miles now ...
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Ok let's start I have a 1999 f350 7.3 4x4 Work Model that I'm have some odd transmission problems. I drove it 20 mins to do a 2hr job no problems finished that got in took off I few seconds down the road it was like the tranny just dropped out no sound just reved no gears at all. So I shut it down tried to start again would not start in park without pulling up on the lever which had experienced here and there for a good while. So got it started went in gear took off same thing went popped out no gears. I started it again this time used reverse same thing as drive so got it where I knew I could leave it but now it would not start in park anymore at all. Next day picked up a neutral saftey switch changed it now it starts in park every time but still starts going looses the gear then have no gears shut it down sometimes had to wait a few then again same issue.
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1999 f250 SD 5.4 reg cab 320000 km. (200000 m for all those south o the border)
Short story is after plowing truck doesn't like shifting out of second. usually works again next morning. Took it in to have tranny flushed/serviced. No change. obd says p0705, transmission range sensor circuit malfunction. today just as I got home I gingerly (seriously not boring the snot out of the truck) started using the plow to shave the bank out of a corner of my driveway. started taking its time to shift into D. reverse is fine.
Finished what I was doing and went to turn around, backed up 3 point style and it wouldn't move forward in any position tried D, 2 and 1 and nothing. put it into 4wd low range and it did move a bit, tried it again in 4wd high and nothing, tried it with 4wd off and nothing. eventually it felt like clutches engaging like the abs would, very grabby but not moving much.
As I said I already flushed the tranny and had a service done on it. From what I read my next step is to change the transmission range sensor (same as a neutral safety switch yes??) What could my problem be?
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I have replaced the transmission Range sensor (with OEM) and it is adjusted correctly, however This did not clear the. Code P0705... I am stuck ....
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I recently had a thread going regarding my 1999 F350 2wd auto transmission slipping in/out gear. Tried to follow up on old thread but got confused so I'm trying to start a new one. Basic problem is that truck was slipping in/out of gear. Cleaned the solenoid pack electrical plug (as instructed on previous thread) and the truck didn't act up for 2 weeks. Today it started slipping in/out again and this time it registered a code of P0705.
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Was doing some errands this morning and on the way home the transmission shifted a little strangely into 2nd. I had to let off the throttle for it to shift.
Fluid levels are correct and not burnt with no residue floating with a pinkish red color. Using Schaeffer's All-Trans Supreme.
I have read all of the threads related to the P0732 and the mechanical diode issue. Does the e99 4R100 have the mechanical diode? If not, what else could it be?
I also have the P0500 VSS sensor circuit fault which an old Ford mechanic stated could be related to a bad fuel sending unit which is definitely bad on this truck.
Am planning to go out and clean the sensor on the differential. Speedometer is working properly. I have also noticed what appeared to be a small slip when in reverse a couple of times that I initially attributed to tire spin. Is any of this related? Should I be prepared to rebuild/replace the transmission?
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I bought this truck with a stock automatic transmission and 260k miles back in October expecting the transmission to be the first thing to go. Recently I had a transmission code, OD OFF light flashing, for the bad speed sensor which i got replaced. Then the OD OFF light started flashing after some hard driving when I would put into neutral or park so I took it back to the mechanic, Hanahan Truck and Auto in Sc. They looked into it and there wasn't any different code in the system but they noticed when you lay into it driving it slips some between 2nd and 3rd gears so that could cause the computer to put in a code.
They said usually a rebuild runs from $2k-2.5k and they also recommended a Jasper reman for roughly $2.8k which comes with a 100k mile 3yr warranty. So I figure replacing the transmission is probably the way to go. Any recommendations for a replacement. I've heard ATS and Sun Coast are decent options that I could build one. I'm looking to stay close to $3k. My truck is a 2000 F250 lariat 4x4 with 268k miles. I'm installing an S&B intake, 4" MBRP exhaust, and DP-Tuner's F6 chip when I get the transmission work done.
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Last November I forgot to plug my truck in and it got down to 0, my girlfriend tried unsuccessfully to jump start it. When I got home I jumped it and got it running. I took it down to a heated shop to troubleshoot the glow plug circuit. I discovered it was not getting 12v to the glow plug relay. Also I started it and tried to back it up in the shop, when put in reverse it killed the engine, not lugged it down it was like you shut the switch off.
Also I discovered if you turn the lights on it kills the engine immediately. It will not crank with the lights on either. So far I have replaced the computer,ignition switch,batteries, and cam positioning sensor. Now comes the weird part!! I decided to get it running and pull the bulbs out of the back up lights I pulled the drivers bulb first then the passengers side bulb. When I pulled the passengers side bulb it killed the engine.
It is not my daily driver so it still sits in my shop. I have a hunch it's a ground issue but I've checked and cleaned up all the grounds I can find and it still has the problem.
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I have a 2002 F-250 with a 7.3.
I have been having a no crank, no start issue off and on for a while. batteries are new, cables are new, connections are clean, and starter has been rebuilt and checked. I bought a "starter relay" which i thought was the top solenoid in this picture. I also replaced the lower solenoid in the picture. The bottom solenoid was replaced with what im sure is the correct replacement. The upper I think is wrong. It started but then shut down and will not restart. The upper solenoid also was very hot after it shut down.
Long story short what is the upper solenoid for? Im assuming its not the starter solenoid. If so where is the Starter solenoid on a 2002 7.3?
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I just got a 02 f250 lariat 4x4. 7.3. the dimmer on the dash will not work. The light switch was falling apart any way so I replaced it with motor raft switch. Didn't fix it I checked the fuses for the dash and lights. Can't find anything. It does have an aftermarket CD player and those light work with switch. Also it has the mirrors with turn signals and run lights. Neither works power mirrors work fine but no lights. On either side.
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I bought 2004 Toyota Camry LE 2.4 couple of months ago, Been running good with no issues , no check engine light . Today I had it detailed from the inside and got it clean at a shop , then took it and changed the transmission Oil at Jiffylube . after leaving the shop the engine light came on . I then took it to a local Auto car parts and had used a car diagnostics scanner to see what was the problem and this showed up P0705 Transmission Range Sensor . I deleted it , then while driving around town , it came back on . I live in Minnesota and it is very cold here, not sure if the cold weather have to do anything with it, but i doubt it. The car looks and seems to be running ok .
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To start I was driving to work tonight and noticed the o/d "off" light flashing. it shifted hard one time then felt normal the rest of the way to work. At red lights the o/d light world turn off and about 3 minutes later it would flash again. When I got to work, I checked my code reader which gave me the p0705. I have searched around the net for about an hour and one thing i am seeing is that the fluid is "hot" or that there isn't enough. i have checked it and it looks slightly low like right above the add indication.
The only sound I here from under the truck is a rattle when in drive and at idle, but once I give it some gas it goes away. On they way home that night the o/d light was still flashing but it drove fine just at higher rpm, it down shifted hard one time but there were no other issues. I checked the fuses and they are all good.
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I have a 2000 7.3 f450 having some electrical issues. When you turn the key on sometimes the dash will start ticking and left side light flashing...engine will turn over but it won't start. The ticking is coming from under the hood relay 32 (you can hear and feel it clicking). Book says its injector driver module power relay. A lot of the times it will start fine other times it will be running and just die (prob because of this issue) happened once when I was driving.
What to check here already replaced the relay still have the problem.
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Here's the story. Truck has showed no signs of rough running. Wife drives truck around town. Truck up to temperature and doing fine on a 90 degree day. Stops at red light. Makes left turn engine light comes on truck seems to be running on 4 cylinders. Pulls over light goes off engine idles perfect. Pulls back on road light on no power. Gets truck to a local friends house lets it sit til I get off work.
I check for codes get p1316. Drive truck toward my house no problems for 4-5 miles then does the above with me. Limp it home. I know it is pointing at a wire problem to injectors and or IDM. Did a buzz test passed fine. Plan on pulling valve covers and looking for the usuall things. Any thing I am missing? What will a kOEO test tell me? Should I run one? How common is IDM to go out? One last thing just put a rebuilt transmission in it 3 days ago may be unrelated it seems to be doing fine.
2003 f-350 cc 7.3.
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Last year I did some major work on my 02. Painted it, new injectors, 38R, and once it was back together, the transmission went south in a month. Got a Ford reman HD4R100. Shortly after the install, when in reverse, the torque convertor would lock up when you stepped on the throttle. As soon as you let off the throttle, it would disengage. Thinking it was a tranny issue, got another one from Ford. This one has been in the truck for about 9 months. And it seemed fine until about a month ago. It started doing the torque convertor lockup thing in reverse like the last one, but not as often.
Then last weekend it did it every time I put it in reverse. Then yesterday, while pulling away from a traffic light, there was a loud bang, and lost power in the transmission. Once stopped, I found out it has manual 1st and 2nd, but nothing else. No drive, overdrive, or reverse. I personally believe something electrical led to these issues, and ultimately, the transmission failure. I know the truck is not stock, but I do not run it hard very much. When it went bang yesterday, I was not being hard on it. Where to look at what is causing this?
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As I was getting ready to leave town with the tractor loaded up, I was accelerating with the turbo spooling up when I heard a bit of a pop and lost power (engine still running and all, just very low power like you get when the turbo fails). I wasn't far from the shop so I came back and started getting a lot of white smoke out of the exhaust, it doesn't smell like diesel, probably more like oil. Definitely smoke, not coolant. I pulled it around back and shut it down to go grab AE and scan it and it shows a P0475, starting it back up has light smoke at idle and it idles fine but as soon as you give it any throttle it starts smoking pretty badly.
Researching it looks like the most likely cause for this is the EBPV itself but before tearing it down that far. This is the only code it's showing.
Truck has 272k on it, turbo was rebuilt a couple of years ago but we didn't do anything with the pedestal at that time. I guess in retrospect, I probably should have done the EBPV delete and the resistor fix then but I didn't think about it at the time.
On another note, my AE is not showing any of the system test for some reason, the drop down is blank. I have version 7.0.1, so it's an old version but I'm working on an old truck, so... What that might be? I've got the truck pulled into the shop now to let it cool down. I'll probably let it sit overnight and take the turbo and EBPV out tomorrow unless someone has a better suggestion...
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What do I do? Do I need a new IDM?
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Truck was towed into my shop for no start. Mechanic diag as hpop pump. He is no longer here. R&R hpop with thourobred reman pump. Truck still a no start. only code is for EBP. Spacer is behind tin nut of ipr. Starter spins motor as it should. No blown fuses. WTS light works. No oil in icp or ipr sensors. GPR voltage is good. Tach moves when cranking. Disconnect ICP still no start and has 65% duty cycle. IPR has 500-1000psi the first 2sec of cranking then it drops and fluctuates 180-480. Add direct power to ipr and get 660psi the first 2sec of cranking then drops
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What's the truth behind the deep pan automatic transmission pans? I hear they are supposed to carry a few extra quarts of transmission oil and result in lower transmission temps. I've also heard this is not true since the amount of fluid going through the transmission cooler over a period of time still remains the same and therefore will not provide any lower transmission temps.
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