Ford A/C :: 1994 - Compressor Clutch Won't Engage / Only Light Goes On?
Mar 12, 2015
I have a 94 Ranger with 2.3L motor. Last week my ac quit working. I push the in and the ac light goes on, but the compressor clutch won't engage. I changed the relay, but that didn't work. The fan still works, but the ac does not come on. I tried banging on the compressor pulley, but that didn't do anything. The clutch is not frozen -- it spins freely. The connector looks good and I haven't done any work in the engine compartment so I couldn't have accidentally moved any wiring. What I might try or is my compressor simply dead?
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I just picked up a '94 7.3 IDI Turbo, and I can't figure out what ails the AC. It appears that there should be enough refrigerant (according to my recharge kit), but the compressor clutch will not engage. I have checked the fuses, and all are fine. All other HVAC functions are normal. Is there a way to test the compressor?
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So clutch doesn't engage and compressor is not running. I have 12-13v at the low pressure switch and the same at the high. When I jump the low pressure I don't get any voltage at all at the plug that controls the relay for the clutch.
Where I'm confused is:
Is this a low pressure problem - gauge is reading 60psi on the accumulator
Or
Is this electrical somewhere?
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Says A/C Compressor Clutch Circuit open. A/C blows hot air....go to VENT and the EATC controls the temp fine (ambient air only). It's on a '97 Lincoln Mark VIII if it makes any difference. Pulled code # 1530 ...
Clutch does not engage but the compressor does turn. Also the EATC will NOT go into the test mode. Push OFF and Floor at same time, then AUTO within two seconds. Nothing. Is this a clutch gap problem? New clutch was installed about a year ago.
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The A/C in my truck stopped working last year, and this year I intend to fix it. I believe the problem is with the compressor clutch because it was making noise as it would engage or disengage. It was making this noise for a good year or so, and then one day the noise stopped and I have no A/C. So I am only assuming its the clutch.
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I have a 1995 Ford Windstar. When I turn on the air conditioning, the compressor clutch does not engage despite having sufficient refrigerant in the system. Jumping current directly to the compressor clutch will engage the clutch, so it's not the clutch. I suspect the relay for the compressor clutch inside the CCRM may be bad, but am not sure how to test it. I have a Haynes repair manual, but how to test this device?
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My daughter has a 2003 Saturn Vue 2.2 and it seems that the clutch if froze up... I have checked Freon level with a gauge that I use to top of Freon and seems ok... the vehicle has 170,000 thousand miles... are these compressors prone to failure and is there a "Quick Fix" without replacing compressor, orphis tube and dryer?
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if the fan doesn't work, could this make the AC compressor clutch not engage? I think the fan is burned out because it doesn't spin at all, and only moves with a lot of effort. If the fan circuit is open, will this cause the Compressor to not work as well? the car is a 1991 740 GL. 2.3L engine, non turbo.
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I got a 2003 GTI 1.8t and the AC air is blowing warm. With the car on, AC on and fans full blast both rad fans turn on but compressor clutch does not engage. Took it to a shop and the mechanic said the system was full of refrigerant but that the compressor was not getting the proper signal and there was an electrical problem.
I check the power at the compressor and it is reading about 7 volts, which is low correct? That should be getting 12-13 volts correct? I also check the pressure switch over by the passenger side and it was getting 13v. What to check next to start ruling out causes? Any quick way to determine whether this is electrical or a compressor issue? I am limited in my abilities as far as electrical work goes.
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I am having trouble with my air conditioning system in my 1996 Chevy Lumina. When I turn on the AC, the compressor clutch does not engage and the fans do not spin. I was able to jump the compressor so the clutch engaged, however, the fans still did not spin and the AC was not cold. I then jumped the low pressure cycling switch (near the accumulator), which caused the fans to spin while the compressor was running. However, this still did not produce cold air from the AC and none of the AC lines were cold to the touch. I am starting to think the system is low on Freon, but I do not have gauges to test the pressure.
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I have a problem with my AC that is driving me mad. The compressor won't always engage, especially when accelerating. I browsed the forums and came upon this link; SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap , very useful. With the AC on, when the compressor didn't engage, I just hit the clutch plate with a wood pole and the compressor immediately turned on.
So its definitely not pressure related and as far as I know, the relay and wiring are working or else it wouldn't even turn on. It works well for a few minutes (very well) and then it just stops working. Anyway, I read the instructions on that page. The thing is... when I put the keys in ON and turn the AC on... the clutch still doesn't engage, making it impossible for me to get the plate out to get the shim out.
Model: Ford Explorer 2000 SOHC....
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2006 Mustang GT Convertible; air conditioner doesn't always work. When I press the button to turn on the air conditioner, the panel light illuminates but the a/c compressor does not engage. After driving the car for anywhere between 10 and 45 minutes, the compressor clutch will engage and the air conditioner cools normally. When I first noticed this problem over a year ago, I discovered that if I left the air conditioner in the "on" position when I turned off the car, the air conditioner would work the next time I started the car. This hasn't happened lately (so much for that "solution"). The car has been at the local Ford dealer multiple times for this problem and although they have been able to duplicate the problem, they have no solution. The dealer checked the electronics, recharged the system and tested the computer and told me that these were all fine.
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The Truck: 94 F-150 XLT 5-speed 300-I6
The Problem: AC blowing hot air.
What I've done: Start the truck, look at the compressor, (looks like it's spinning to me), engage the AC, look again (yep the pully on the compressor is still spinning).
And that's pretty much where i stopped, cause i don't know what i'm looking for, should i be seeing it not spin if it where seized, and whats next on the list to check.
I assume that it's not seized at this point and it must be something else, like a control, keeping it from working.
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I have a 1999 Winnebago Motorhome on a F53 Ford V10 Chassis and the A/C clutch will not engage when turning on the A/C. I have check the Freon 134A and it appears to be fine (in the red zone) and actually put a jumper across the pressure switch connector (harness side) and it still will not engage. Is there a fuse within the circuit if so, where it may be located?
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I have a 1994 F53 Chassis RV that has recently developed a transmission problem. The transmission has been working fine then one day I went to move the RV and I put the transmission into “D” and nothing happens. It feels like it is still in Neutral and there is a slight metal on metal sound like it is trying to engage. However if you the put the transmission in reverse it works fine.
I then put the transmission into “1” or “2” and the RV moves with no problems. Then once it is moving I can shift it into “D” and the transmission will act like normal and shift into 3<SUP>rd</SUP> and 4<SUP>th</SUP> gear. That is until I come to a stop again. Then it feels like the transmission goes back into “N”. I then can shift back into “1” or “2” and get the RV moving I can shift it back into “D” and everything works again.
I have checked the transmission fluid and it could use changed but the level was fine. I have read about the MLPS could that be causing this problem? I have read about testing the MLPS, but I am not sure which pin is which.
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When I turn on my air conditioner it just blows air, not cold air just air. If I turn it to heat it also just blows air, not warm air, just air. The fan settings all work fine but the air coming out never changes temperature. By the way, If I bypass the compressor clutch relay with a paper clip, the AC will kick in. I refilled the coolant in the AC system too but it won't engage without bypassing the relay. Plus, the heater is not "kicking in" either. I did recently install a new wiper motor but I am not sure if that may have contributed to the air issue that is happening now.
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Here is the issue i am having. 2011 F-350 King ranch with all bells and whistles. In Arizona now we are in the season that the weather is cold in the AM and sometimes hot enough in the late afternoon to need the A/C in the truck. with the settings on Auto which i normally do, and the external temp reading in the 80s, and the internal thermostat set at 70 or lower, the A/C compressor will not engage and allow for cooling the cab of the truck. But sometimes it will work just fine. I am assuming there is a temp sensor for cabin temperature. Where that is located. or will i have to change out the entire Climate Control Module. I would take it in to have it checked out but it is an intermittent problem, and i cant not have my truck for a couple of days while they try and figure it out.
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I had a small leak in my 94 Explorer which was getting on the compressor pulley and being splattered around the engine compartment. The fluid was green like antifreeze--which didn't make sense; why would antifreeze be leaking from the air con compressor? But as an experiment, I got a non-AC belt and ran the truck without the compressor pulley turning, and the leak has stopped! The level in the coolant overflow tank has dropped an inch or two in the last 500 or so miles. Is it possible that antifreeze is getting into the air con system somehow, like through an internal leak in the heater core?
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I have a 1994 F-150 extended cab electronically activated 4x4, with the 302 V8 and an e4od transmission.
When the truck is running and it is in park or neutral it makes a grinding/whining noise and when it is in gear it doesn't engage, or occasionally will barely engage, but only enough to move it a little ways.
I've read a couple of post that suggested bad connections to the transmission could cause the transfer case to be in neutral which could cause a similar problem to this. I checked all the connection the best I could and the only thing I found that gave me any concern was one of the wires connected to the transfer case shift motor had some of the insulation melted or rubbed of and the wire was a bit corroded.
Is there any chance that this could be causing my overall problem with the truck not driving? Or what might be going on with it? Or any way I might be able to fix it without having to hand over a significant chunk of change for the full rebuild.
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The AC in my 2004 V6 4-matic wagon has not worked since the dealer had it in their shop last. Coincidentally, neither does the outside temp display on the dash. I tried one of those recharge kits with the cans but the pressure guage registers 90 PSI when I hook it up, more than enough according to the instructions. So it seems the system is charged and it looks like the compressor will not engage. Could the temperature problem and the AC be related? Manual says it only kicks in when the outside temp is hot enough so I figure how will it know if its hot enough if the temp probe is not working? (unless there is another probe somewhere) ...
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On my 2001 Excursion the ac clutch went south over the weekend. I replaced the clutch with a factory clutch kit. Now the problems are baffling me.
I set the air gap at .020. The problem being when I turn the ignition switch on and turn on the ac switch the clutch does not engage. I still get cold air. When I start the truck and it runs the clutch is engaged without any problems, I turn it off and the clutch disengages.
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