Ford Transmission :: 1994 - Cannot Move Engage In D But Will Shift Fine If Started In 1 Or 2
Dec 1, 2012
I have a 1994 F53 Chassis RV that has recently developed a transmission problem. The transmission has been working fine then one day I went to move the RV and I put the transmission into “D” and nothing happens. It feels like it is still in Neutral and there is a slight metal on metal sound like it is trying to engage. However if you the put the transmission in reverse it works fine.
I then put the transmission into “1” or “2” and the RV moves with no problems. Then once it is moving I can shift it into “D” and the transmission will act like normal and shift into 3<SUP>rd</SUP> and 4<SUP>th</SUP> gear. That is until I come to a stop again. Then it feels like the transmission goes back into “N”. I then can shift back into “1” or “2” and get the RV moving I can shift it back into “D” and everything works again.
I have checked the transmission fluid and it could use changed but the level was fine. I have read about the MLPS could that be causing this problem? I have read about testing the MLPS, but I am not sure which pin is which.
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I been working on this unit and I running into this
no foward
no reverse
no foward in and gear at all
I have to check pump pressure
I'm changing fluid and filter
1994 F53 460 CID will not move in drive or reverse - iRV2 Forums
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I have a 1994 F-150 extended cab electronically activated 4x4, with the 302 V8 and an e4od transmission.
When the truck is running and it is in park or neutral it makes a grinding/whining noise and when it is in gear it doesn't engage, or occasionally will barely engage, but only enough to move it a little ways.
I've read a couple of post that suggested bad connections to the transmission could cause the transfer case to be in neutral which could cause a similar problem to this. I checked all the connection the best I could and the only thing I found that gave me any concern was one of the wires connected to the transfer case shift motor had some of the insulation melted or rubbed of and the wire was a bit corroded.
Is there any chance that this could be causing my overall problem with the truck not driving? Or what might be going on with it? Or any way I might be able to fix it without having to hand over a significant chunk of change for the full rebuild.
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I recently bought a 2001 Sante Fe 4X4, (my first Hyundai), that has transmission issues. It has about 135,000 miles on it. It will start easily, and go into Reverse just fine, but would not move in any forward gears. It would occasionally shudder a bit when put in 'drive', but only move forward a few inches. Recently, my mechanic backed it around, then decided to try it in forward again. This time it went forward a couple hundred feet, then quit moving forward. Do I need a new transmission, and if so, what vehicles use this same transmission? Or is there a sensor or valve that could be defective?
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Car has been working fine but yesterday the transmission just wouldn't engage. The engine was running fine. I've just been using it as my around town car so probably put about 5K miles on it a year at this point. It has small dent in the bumper and the interior is fine but old.
I'm tempted to replace the transmission because it is an easy (albeit expensive) solution, and less work (and money) than looking for another used car with an unknown history. But does it make any sense? I've replaced the exhaust, tires and battery recently. When might the engine start giving me trouble?
1994 Camry Wagon, 215k miles,
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Went to start the car today and it started fine but wouldn't shift out of park, and the instrument panel lights were out. Got it towed to the dealer and they narrowed it down to a junction box or instrument panel cluster. They won't know until tomorrow what the problem is. What this might be?
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Been working on tightening up the 3 on the tree assembly because shifting has become troublesome; not wanting to engage gears completely, tough to go from 1st to second and so on. I have already adjusted the linkage per the shop manual with no improvement and found that it was not misadjusted. One of the first tasks is to replace the bushings from the shift rod to shift level under the hood though the bushings have some play but don't look that bad.
I have noticed the amount of play in the column when in neutral seems excessive, between 2nd and 3rd I can move the shifter about 2-3 inches up or down from center without feeling any tension toward a gear. This I think is the shift collar. Before I go tearing into the column, after replacing the shift collar was the amount of play significantly reduced?
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A friends son just bought a 94 powerstroke. auto trans. it will not shift out of first unless you let off throttle. but once in second it shifts fine, until you stop and go back to first. I am thinking bad or sticking second gear solenoid, but do not want to give bad info.
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I was towing my 20' boat and had a 4000 lb camper on back going up a grade in 85-90 degree heat when the tranny started dumping fluid. Got to the top and let it rest for 2-3 hours and refilled and was fine for the rest of the trip. This happened last summer. Truck is only driven about 1000 miles a year. I believe this is the E40D.
This year it will run smooth until after about 20 miles and then begins slipping in Drive and OD. Seems to work fine in 1 and 2. It shifts very hard and runs higher rpms before doing so. Slipping then seems to be sporadic and may not slip for quite awhile but it still shifts very hard.
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i've got an accord 4 cylinder with an automatic transmission that does not engage any of the other gears when i shift it out of park. all indicator lights are out except for the park position on the dash.
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We have a '94 Honda accord that the automatic transmission started "slipping" in a week ago. It has 240K and runs good otherwise. It was sliping after it warms and seemed to slip mainly while shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th while accelerating quickly. If you take it real easy on the gas it does not seem to slip much (the engine revs and the car does not seem to be accelerating, so I assume that means it's slipping - maybe not?).
I don't believe the auto trans fluid had been changed in over 100K+. The car sat for about 2 years and then I changed oil, replaced tires & battery and started using it with no probs until this (I've been using it for about a month now).
Today I changed the auto trans fluid (very dark/dirty but no real burn smell - and just a little metallic "shavings" on the magnetic drain plug), and drove the car fairly hard and heated everything up real good and it hardly slips at all now.
My questions are - with the fluid change making such a drastic improvement (at least for now), should I repeat the process and change it again? Should I try an aftermarket "miracle" additive to claims to prevent slipping? What about trying the Honda brand fluid vs. the "Autostore" brand Dexron VI that is recommended for Hondas requiring Dexron II (apparently they don't make D-II anymore)? Could it be something else - sensor, linkage, etc. (seems doubtful with the improvement with the fluid change?)?
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i have a 94 vw passat vr6 that wont shift. when you start off in drive it takes a second for it to start to move. if you shift it manually from first on up it shifts okay but sometimes it slips in between 2nd and 3rd. the only time the car will shift is after driving it a few miles at about 65-70 it will shift itself into second gear and not come out you have to shut the car off and wait a few minutes to "reset" itself. after driving it on the highway it kicked itself into second gear, i pulled over and the fan was on and it looked as if there was some fluid on top of the transmission but cant recall if it had been there earlier. i checked the ATF and there was no shortage of fluid. could the fan be on due to the transmission over heating? what could be the cause of it not shifting?
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My son's Ranger wouldn't start today, turns over fine, added gas to make sure it wasn't out still no hit.
Other than fuel pump (he said he couldn't hear it) what things should he check? I'll check back in the morning.
1994 Ranger 2.3 4 Speed ....
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I just picked up a '94 7.3 IDI Turbo, and I can't figure out what ails the AC. It appears that there should be enough refrigerant (according to my recharge kit), but the compressor clutch will not engage. I have checked the fuses, and all are fine. All other HVAC functions are normal. Is there a way to test the compressor?
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I have a 94 Ranger with 2.3L motor. Last week my ac quit working. I push the in and the ac light goes on, but the compressor clutch won't engage. I changed the relay, but that didn't work. The fan still works, but the ac does not come on. I tried banging on the compressor pulley, but that didn't do anything. The clutch is not frozen -- it spins freely. The connector looks good and I haven't done any work in the engine compartment so I couldn't have accidentally moved any wiring. What I might try or is my compressor simply dead?
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Starts up fine but the car does not move. Car also has loud whine on cold starts coming out of driver side fender. It will also whine above 2000 rpm even after sitting out in the sun but goes away after driving. The car is at my parent's place and will be able to look at it later today..
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All my guages move (needle moves to the right) once I turn on my head lights. Indicating higher egine temp and higer oil pressure. What cause be causing this?
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I am considering buying a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan with a reported transmission problem. Mileage is around 120k, and the price MIGHT be reasonable even if a trans rebuild would be necessary. I have not seen the vehicle yet, so I'm not yet committed to anything.
Seller claims the car shifts just fine going forward but will not move in reverse. Is this immediately clear that rebuild is going to be necessary? Are there less invasive repairs possible such as valves or controls or other parts which might solve this problem?
I suppose a Caravan transmission at 120,000miles is probably nearing the end of its lifetime, at least that was true of older ones. But like I said, the price is low enough that the cost of a rebuild might be justifiable if all else about the vehicle looks good. I want to have a better sense of the prospects before I invest time in going to look at this...it's about 50 miles away. I have a local transmission shop that I trust and which has reasonable prices
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Just put the 6.0 back in the truck, engine working good now. Went to take it for a test drive and the transmission will not engage in any gear. I don't have any codes coming up on my scanner. Can not figure out why the transmission is not working from engine R&R.
- Fluid level is good
- Swapped wiring harness from my other truck and still nothing
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I have to over rev the engine to get the van to move. After that the tranny seems to work fine. Tranny fluid level is OK, and it does not smell burnt. After I over rev the engine to get moving, the engine revs seem to get back into sync for the speed I'm doing - usually just as the van starts moving, the over-revving is no longer there. Do I need to adjust the bands??
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My car was running fine. I drove it 2-3 miles city & freeway a week ago to make sure. I was going to lend it to a friend and handed him the keys at a different location. When I got home he showed me that he was unable to move the car out of Park. I got in and the motor started fine. I checked and the battery was showing at the normal level,but I too could not budge the car out of Park. That was a few days ago.
Today I went out to start the car up and to my surprise, the battery is completely drained. The battery is only about 17 months old. I previously had had the motor rebuilt a couple of years ago and the car hasn't been driven but 2-3 thousand miles since.
What the problem may be? What kind of mechanic should look at it? (the friend admitted to pushing buttons but since I wasn't there I don't know if that was before he tried to move out of Park or after).
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