Ford A/C :: 2000 F150 - Compressor Won't Come On?
Jun 2, 2014
I have a 2000 F-150 4.3l and a/c compressor will not come on. I checked the pressure on both high and low side, low side is sitting at 90# and high side at 100#, with nothing engaging on clutch. I turn the fan to max a/c and fan to high and light comes on on dash for a/c, but I can't hear anything engaging on compressor and clutch looks like it is standing still while belt is rotating on engine. Had to check here to get fuse schematic and check fuses, but beyond that not sure what to do next.
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1992 f150 4.9L, bought it a couple of months ago knowing the ac wasn't working PO had it converted to 134, said it worked great until they put on the bodylift. Compressor clutch is working, I'm sure I have some blend door issues but I've bypassed the heater for now.
AC on max, outside temp 85*, engine off high/low at 100psi, engine at idle low 55psi high 125psi, center vent reads 93*. When engine at apox. 1800-2000 rpm, low 35, high 180, center vent reads 85*.
My guess is the compressor is worn out. Is there another way to test? If I do replace what else do I need to replace? I'm hoping there's something else I can do/check before replacing the compressor.
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2007 Ford F150 half-ton. No cooling of air at the outlet of the ductwork. Freon charge is good, I watched the tech pull the system down and hold it for the prescribed time period. Compressor will not start. I am being told that this means a failed compressor, but I am of the idea that the pressure switch for low pressure must have failed, or the orifice is stopped up. I am also being told that the compressor, evaporator, and orifice tube needs replaced in order to remedy this issue. The counter man at my local parts house cannot find in his computer any pressure switches, kinda making me think that everything is in the unit. In short, if I can avoid buying the compressor, I would like to.
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The Truck: 94 F-150 XLT 5-speed 300-I6
The Problem: AC blowing hot air.
What I've done: Start the truck, look at the compressor, (looks like it's spinning to me), engage the AC, look again (yep the pully on the compressor is still spinning).
And that's pretty much where i stopped, cause i don't know what i'm looking for, should i be seeing it not spin if it where seized, and whats next on the list to check.
I assume that it's not seized at this point and it must be something else, like a control, keeping it from working.
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I bought a 1977 Ford truck a couple of years ago. It has factory air, but the compressor was removed and the hoses were capped and/or poorly taped off when I bought the truck.
I got the bright idea, I'd try to get the air going, but I didn't know anything about a/c systems. I bought a York type (same as what it would have had originally) compressor from Autozone. They told me it was for r134. I put it on the truck along with a new filter/dryer and new expansion valve.
I took the truck to the local shade tree mechanic and he stuck a el cheapo vacuum pump on it for a little while and threw some oil and two or three cans of r134 in it. Well... since then, two summers have passed and it has never worked right.
The compressor really vibrates at low rpms. The air is just barely cool enough to tease me into thinking I have air conditioning. I know this sounds odd, but it seems to work best after I've sat at a stop sign and then take off. It's like idling the engine allows it to "catch up to itself" and then when I drive about 30 mph after a stop sign it actually blows pretty cool for a couple of minutes. But at highway speeds it isn't cool at all. This seems to be the opposite of what I've read. I had the heater & a/c box all apart changing the heater core and all the doors and seals are in good shape inside it. I don't think I'm getting outside air in. At least not in any quantity.
Last summer a friend tried to had one of those cheap gauges and he tried to put some r134 in it but it didn't accept much at all; and it didn't work. I've had about as much as I can take. I need some air conditioning. Should I try to flush out the system, install a new filter/dryer, and get a fresh charge of r12? I'm concerned about trying that because the kid at Autozone told me the compressor was for r134.
I'm pretty confident I don't have any leaks in the system.
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Have and intermittent condition with my 1996 F-150 4.9. AC runs and then cuts out (compressor not turning). I lose 12v to both side of high side switch. I tried to troubleshoot using a schematic in Haynes Foprd Pickups and Bronco for 92 and later F-Series/Bronco, but the color code for the wiring doesn't match up.
On my truck, there is 2 wires from the low side pressure switch which mates to a socket with only 1 wire. I have 12 volts at switch terminal on dash control, and it seems that I have an broken wire behind the dash, as I can get it to operate again when I move the harness around. Where can I get a schematic of this part of the circuit?
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2006 for f150 with 107k miles...suddenly started shuddering whenever I give it anymore than a feather of gas, and it's under 200 rpm...after 2000 if seems to break out of the shutter and run fine. Exact same thing happenes to my 89 accura with 230k
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I have a 2000 F-150 5.4L 4x4. I am currently deployed and my wife has the truck. Just yesterday she told me my heater core went out again the only way she knows this is its the 4th time in just over a year. What would cause a heater core to go out so many times in a short period? What should I have my wife do? I do not want to get rid of my truck and I wont be back for another few months.
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I have a problem with my AC that is driving me mad. The compressor won't always engage, especially when accelerating. I browsed the forums and came upon this link; SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap , very useful. With the AC on, when the compressor didn't engage, I just hit the clutch plate with a wood pole and the compressor immediately turned on.
So its definitely not pressure related and as far as I know, the relay and wiring are working or else it wouldn't even turn on. It works well for a few minutes (very well) and then it just stops working. Anyway, I read the instructions on that page. The thing is... when I put the keys in ON and turn the AC on... the clutch still doesn't engage, making it impossible for me to get the plate out to get the shim out.
Model: Ford Explorer 2000 SOHC....
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Once I had driven for about 15 minutes and the truck set for about 5 minutes. Then it would not start. Another time, I drove for about 20 minutes and it cut off while driving in a parking lot. I have had 2 different shops take a look at it and they cannot duplicate the problem. They have run a bunch of diagnostics and tried their selves but it always starts for them.
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I have an 87 f150 inline 6 efi. The truck will not rev over 2000 rpm even when idling. It has a new fuel filter. What this could be?
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My A/C was blowing warm air so I purchased a can of A/C PRO at a local parts store a couple weeks ago. My system was so low the compressor would not come on. I put a 20oz can in and the compressor started working. I let the truck idle for the recommended fifteen minutes, the air was not so cold anymore, and the gauge was reading low.
So, off I went to the parts store to buy another can. It is in the correct range on the gauge now. I was wondering how accurate the gauge was on this can so I had a friend hook up his professional A/C gauges and it was reading the same as the one on the can. I took the truck for an hour drive last weekend with the family to a lake for a picnic and noticed the A/C started blowing a bit warmer air, so I shut it off and rolled down the windows. I have noticed after all this my compressor does not cycle off and on, it just stays on even when the ambient temp is 65 degrees.
I checked the pressure yesterday and it is holding in the correct range still. I am wondering about the air gap in the clutch so I borrowed my neighbor's feeler gauges today and checked my air gap. It was about .037" so I removed the clutch and took out the only shim. Put it back together and it is .021" ran the truck and the clutch did not turn until I turned on the A/C, then it engaged. Hooked up my low pressure gauge and checked the pressure and it read 24 psi with the fan on low. The ambient temperature at this point is 70 degrees.
I put a meat thermometer in the vent closest to the steering wheel and after just a couple minutes, it was reading 40 degrees. I turned the fan on high and noticed the pressure went to 35 psi and the temperature in the vent started to rise. I turned the fan back down to low and the pressure dropped back to 24 psi and the temperature went back down to 40 degrees. I noticed the clutch still is not cycling it just stays running. I left the gauge hooked up to see what the pressure was off and it read about 94 to 95 psi.
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I have a 2000 explorer and the a/c stopped working. I recharged the a/c because freon was low per the gauges and then the compressor would kick on, then the pressure would drop in a matter of seconds and it kicked off again. Then the pressure goes back up, compressor kicks on again and this just keeps doing this over and over but never gets cold. What's wrong? My a/c worked last year.
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I know my clutch is not going to last forever and I do think Ive gotten my share of use out of it but i want to know if there is a way i can determine just how much more life there may or may not be. Although I have not looked into it yet, Ive just learned to read these awesome forums before jumping to conclusions.
I have a 2000 f150 4.2 v6 with about 180.000 miles and i am starting to lose my pedal, not much left anymore. I think. Am I able to see the clutch plate via the inspection cover?( i know stupid question). if so , what do I look for.
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2000 XLT F150 4.6 - New starter & solenoid(s), battery cable & fuse links good.
When i turn the key, I hear one single click and the power cuts out entirely. I can't attempt a second start or turn on the lights or have any power going through the truck until I disconnect the battery for about 10 seconds then reconnect. Electrical becomes live again, then when the ignition is turned the electrical cuts out again. I do hear a single cluck at the starter (probably attempting to engage when it cuts out) and a clunk right at the inside fuse box (drivers side).
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I have a 2000 F150, 94k miles, manual transmission, 2WD
About 6 months ago a slight squeaking sound started when only backing up. Now its progressed to a sort of grinding metal on metal sound with regular driving as well as in reverse. I can hear it the most when its in gear and I take my foot off the gas. I changed the breaks, checked the wheel bearings, did a clutch test, and the u joints look fine. Something weird happened yesterday, while raining out, it didn't make a peep. My drive shaft and u joints have a layer of rust on them...could that be a cause of the noise, and it went away when wet?
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My driver side caliper will not bleed fluid, is it safe to say that the caliper needs replacing.
2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles
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I am trying to hook up my power door locks to my command start. I am having trouble getting it to work. Ive tried a number of relay diagrams from the12volt.com. I've tried actuators/reverse polarity and it blows both my factory door lock fuse and the fuse I have supplied to the relays. Ive also tried 5 wire alternating 12 volt positive door locks, and 3 wire positive door lock combinations. Both of these combinations the relays click back and forth fine with the actuators unhooked, when I connect the actuators the doors unlock with the factory switch but when I unlock with my remote it blows the fuse. How to properly connect the actuators?
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2000 jetta 2.0
so far i have replaced 2 fans ; thermal switch in radiator ; ran all the tests i can find ; all fuses and relays seem fine ; jumped compressor and it engages .
key on & car NOT running there is no power to the compressor.
I wanted to check the low pressure switch but every test is for a 2 wire set-up.... mine has 3 wires. which wires do i jump?
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Last fall I had my mechanic replace the broken air compressor on my 2000 Jeep Cherokee with a by pass. I didn't have money to replace it at the time and I still don't. I want to pick up one at a junk yard. How to do this? Where and how to learn more about maintaining and repairing my vehicle.
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M y 2000 F150 5.4 motor has a little miss but only after it warms up It does not show up on the code reader . Right before this the #2 coil went out so I changed it .
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