Ford A/C :: 1992 F150 - Compressor Is Worn Out
Jul 22, 2013
1992 f150 4.9L, bought it a couple of months ago knowing the ac wasn't working PO had it converted to 134, said it worked great until they put on the bodylift. Compressor clutch is working, I'm sure I have some blend door issues but I've bypassed the heater for now.
AC on max, outside temp 85*, engine off high/low at 100psi, engine at idle low 55psi high 125psi, center vent reads 93*. When engine at apox. 1800-2000 rpm, low 35, high 180, center vent reads 85*.
My guess is the compressor is worn out. Is there another way to test? If I do replace what else do I need to replace? I'm hoping there's something else I can do/check before replacing the compressor.
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
I have a '92 Aerostar XLT with a rear control arm problem. The bushings have worn out and the rear end floats side to side as much as 1 1/2 inches. Ford says one bushing comes in the arm ( no longer avail ), one is a press in (no longer available), and the other is like a strut bushing and is available but without the other 2 there is no point in replacing the one. How to fix this enormous problem???
View 10 Replies
My 92 f150 has been running rough at around 30 to 40 mph and around 60 and 70. It has a 5.9 v8. I have recently replaced the plugs, plug wires, dis cap, and fuel filter without it solving this problem at all. Someone said this could be my transmission or throttle body.
View 8 Replies
I have a 92 ford f150 that ran great up until I was driving the other day and my trucks engine just shut off, like i turned the key off. It wouldn't restart. Towed it home, let it sit, and tried again..cranks fine, still wont start. replaced the coil.. Cranked it for about 5 min off and on and it barely started.. Let it run for about 5 min and shut it off, wouldn't restart. Replaced the icm....and again, cranked until it barely started, then it wouldn't restart. Today I replaced the ignition switch, and the cap n rotor. Now It'll crank for days..but still not starting. I have 40 lbs fuel pressure at the rail, plugs, wires ,all new. new fuel pumps also....
View 12 Replies
So I got four new tires on my 92 f150. A day after driving it around. My hub starts going bad. That same day. I notice three wheels studs are broken. So I'm wondering if not tightening or over tightening cussed this. It was great before I took in for new tires. Then a day later my hub goes out. I put 60 miles on the new tires.
View 19 Replies
I have a 2000 F-150 4.3l and a/c compressor will not come on. I checked the pressure on both high and low side, low side is sitting at 90# and high side at 100#, with nothing engaging on clutch. I turn the fan to max a/c and fan to high and light comes on on dash for a/c, but I can't hear anything engaging on compressor and clutch looks like it is standing still while belt is rotating on engine. Had to check here to get fuse schematic and check fuses, but beyond that not sure what to do next.
View 14 Replies
My 92 F-150 my heater blower motor doesn't put out enough air like my 2003 Lightning blower motor does.... So I figured after all these years that I would put a new heater blower motor in, well it's the same hear output and there's no debris in the heating ducts and the cable lever is working fine to close the blend door, so I guess maybe it's normal for these 92-96 F-150 trucks to have mediocre heating output ;-( Is there a bigger motor I could put in to get more heat..... The resistor is fine to, it works on all speeds.....
View 2 Replies
My compressor on my 92 Ranger did not have any clutches on it. Where they went. I got a compressor off of a 94 at the pick and pull. It was charged and the compressor turned fine. Brought it home and tried to install it. My hoses in the back of mine(92) are different than the 94. I went back and got the hoses, condenser and evaporator off of the 94. Put it all together. The high pressure hose on the 94 has some sort of switch on the high pressure side. What is this switch for and how can I wire it in to the electrical system on the 92? I assume it is some sort of pressure switch that allows the system to flow. I'm getting 30 pounds on the low side and 150-200 ponds on the high side. Also, when I increase the RPM's, the compressor kicks on and off. It's not like it would or should normally but fast.
View 7 Replies
Subject : Vehicle 1992 Ford Truck F-150 300cu. inch
Problem : Electrical
Description : Engine would stop running and as long the key switch was in the on position the electrical fuel pump would keep running and the end result would be a gas flooded engine. There was no way to predict when or where this occurrence would happen. It may be at a busy intersection or immediately after start up in the early morning. It may do this two or three times a week and then go a month without doing this, just about the time I thought everything was alright it would start up again.
I used just about every mechanic I could think of to diagnosis the problem. The fuel pressure switches were changed, map sensor, computer board, new distributor coil and module.A new alternator was also put on the truck to no avail.This truck was taken to a ford dealer garage. In my mind this would the the "Mayo clinical" for a sick Ford vehicle. The truck stayed there for about two weeks and left with the same problem it had arrived with.
Not long afterwards it came into my mind to install a new Ignition coil . That fixed the problem ! The truck ran good for about three months and then started the same thing again. I knew I was on top of the problem. I then put an old used Ignition coil on and it lasted about two weeks. Again resulting in the same problem. I then bought an expensive coil made in the USA "Blue Streak Brand". That has been about 5 years ago. The truck has never caused me any problems since.
View 5 Replies
Situation is I have a 92 F150 2WD donor truck. 5.8l will be going into my 80 F150 4X4. E4OD transmission is long gone, but I do have a 4R70W from a 96 Explorer. Bolting it together is no problem, but there are differences in the transmission controls. E4OD uses a coast clutch, 4R70W does not. EPC, shift solenoids and TCC are compatible. I do not want to use a 5.0l PCM or add external controllers like the Baumannator.
Question is, can I control the 4R70W with the PCM that comes with the 5.8l?
I'm thinking I can ignore the coast clutch output, maybe tie it to +12 through a resistor if that makes the PCM happy. Baumann's controller appears to work with E4OD's as well as 4R70w's doing exactly this. Baumannator TCS Electronic Transmission Wiring Details....
View 8 Replies
2007 Ford F150 half-ton. No cooling of air at the outlet of the ductwork. Freon charge is good, I watched the tech pull the system down and hold it for the prescribed time period. Compressor will not start. I am being told that this means a failed compressor, but I am of the idea that the pressure switch for low pressure must have failed, or the orifice is stopped up. I am also being told that the compressor, evaporator, and orifice tube needs replaced in order to remedy this issue. The counter man at my local parts house cannot find in his computer any pressure switches, kinda making me think that everything is in the unit. In short, if I can avoid buying the compressor, I would like to.
View 6 Replies
The Truck: 94 F-150 XLT 5-speed 300-I6
The Problem: AC blowing hot air.
What I've done: Start the truck, look at the compressor, (looks like it's spinning to me), engage the AC, look again (yep the pully on the compressor is still spinning).
And that's pretty much where i stopped, cause i don't know what i'm looking for, should i be seeing it not spin if it where seized, and whats next on the list to check.
I assume that it's not seized at this point and it must be something else, like a control, keeping it from working.
View 1 Replies
I bought a 1977 Ford truck a couple of years ago. It has factory air, but the compressor was removed and the hoses were capped and/or poorly taped off when I bought the truck.
I got the bright idea, I'd try to get the air going, but I didn't know anything about a/c systems. I bought a York type (same as what it would have had originally) compressor from Autozone. They told me it was for r134. I put it on the truck along with a new filter/dryer and new expansion valve.
I took the truck to the local shade tree mechanic and he stuck a el cheapo vacuum pump on it for a little while and threw some oil and two or three cans of r134 in it. Well... since then, two summers have passed and it has never worked right.
The compressor really vibrates at low rpms. The air is just barely cool enough to tease me into thinking I have air conditioning. I know this sounds odd, but it seems to work best after I've sat at a stop sign and then take off. It's like idling the engine allows it to "catch up to itself" and then when I drive about 30 mph after a stop sign it actually blows pretty cool for a couple of minutes. But at highway speeds it isn't cool at all. This seems to be the opposite of what I've read. I had the heater & a/c box all apart changing the heater core and all the doors and seals are in good shape inside it. I don't think I'm getting outside air in. At least not in any quantity.
Last summer a friend tried to had one of those cheap gauges and he tried to put some r134 in it but it didn't accept much at all; and it didn't work. I've had about as much as I can take. I need some air conditioning. Should I try to flush out the system, install a new filter/dryer, and get a fresh charge of r12? I'm concerned about trying that because the kid at Autozone told me the compressor was for r134.
I'm pretty confident I don't have any leaks in the system.
View 4 Replies
1992 Ford 150 4wd ... Starting sequence turns over very slowly when ignition is activated. Starter, Battery, Plugs have been tested. Spark has been checked and is active at ignition sequence. Could this be an amperage draw when ignition is activated due to a short in ignition circuit?
View 1 Replies
My air conditioner had a problem a few years ago. While idling in the driveway on a really hot day the clutch on the compressor froze and nearly burned the belt off of the pulleys before I killed the AC. I continued to drive the vehicle for several months but without using the AC.
Fast forward 5 years (almost) and I just finished installing a new engine and putting a shift kit in the transmission.
Remembering the original AC problem I know that I need to get this fixed. I noticed while checking all the engine functions that the compressor clutch is not stuck any more (maybe all the oil leaking onto it worked with this).
As it stands now, the AC seems to cycle normally but it doesn't get cold and probably needs a charge at a minimum. Is it possible that the compressor clutch will work fine or is it a disaster waiting to happen? What else should I check in the AC system?
I'm not against replacing the whole system or any single part of it. I am also not sure whether the AC uses R12 or R134. How can I tell?
View 9 Replies
I have a 92 f150 w 302 . My front tank leaks out of the gas cap and builds up pressure. Even though I have never put fuel in it (owned it 7 mos). I siphon fuel out of it weekly. If I switch from rear to front. The truck stalls out.
View 1 Replies
Have and intermittent condition with my 1996 F-150 4.9. AC runs and then cuts out (compressor not turning). I lose 12v to both side of high side switch. I tried to troubleshoot using a schematic in Haynes Foprd Pickups and Bronco for 92 and later F-Series/Bronco, but the color code for the wiring doesn't match up.
On my truck, there is 2 wires from the low side pressure switch which mates to a socket with only 1 wire. I have 12 volts at switch terminal on dash control, and it seems that I have an broken wire behind the dash, as I can get it to operate again when I move the harness around. Where can I get a schematic of this part of the circuit?
View 5 Replies
My Chevrolet 1992 Caprice Air conditioner is chilling but the compressor doesn't disengage when reach the right temperature inside cabin... There seems to be a temperature control or a sensor and I don't know where is it...
View 2 Replies
What to do with the worn out steering wheels on these rigs? Mine is worn to the point that it's getting loose on the top section.
View 14 Replies
My rear springs are worn out
apparently ... it's not a pickup ...
seriously though ... they are worn out
View 6 Replies
I have a 2000 v10 Excursion, I have replaced the crankshaft on another vehicle before, so it's not anything new to me but with that vehicle I had a place outside where I could pull the motor out and do all the work outside of the vehicle. What I'm wondering is is it possible to replace the crankshaft while it is still in the engine compartment. I know that i will have to disconnect the transmission from the engine and slide the tranny back in order to be able to remove the crankshaft along with removing other items from under the motor, oil pan etc.
I'm just wondering I have the twin I-beam suspension for the front tires and it bolts to the cross-member so I know that I will have to unbolt the cross-member and raise and support the motor from above by chain and beam in order to remove everything from the bottom and pull out the spark plugs in order to release the pressure on the top of the pistons so that I can slide them up and down easier during removal and installation but I'm just wanting to get thoughts from everyone about whether it can be done without pulling the motor out because I don't have the area this time to pull out the motor.
View 13 Replies
