Ford Excursion :: 2000 V10 - Crankshaft Worn Out
Oct 12, 2014
I have a 2000 v10 Excursion, I have replaced the crankshaft on another vehicle before, so it's not anything new to me but with that vehicle I had a place outside where I could pull the motor out and do all the work outside of the vehicle. What I'm wondering is is it possible to replace the crankshaft while it is still in the engine compartment. I know that i will have to disconnect the transmission from the engine and slide the tranny back in order to be able to remove the crankshaft along with removing other items from under the motor, oil pan etc.
I'm just wondering I have the twin I-beam suspension for the front tires and it bolts to the cross-member so I know that I will have to unbolt the cross-member and raise and support the motor from above by chain and beam in order to remove everything from the bottom and pull out the spark plugs in order to release the pressure on the top of the pistons so that I can slide them up and down easier during removal and installation but I'm just wanting to get thoughts from everyone about whether it can be done without pulling the motor out because I don't have the area this time to pull out the motor.
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What to do with the worn out steering wheels on these rigs? Mine is worn to the point that it's getting loose on the top section.
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My Ex has a ProComp 6" lift that was installed in 2004 (it's an 03) and it seems that the rear springs are worn out and sagging. I'm assuming the lift used the stock springs and blocks. I haven't measured but I'd say the rear is 1" - 2"s lower in the back. Question is should I replace the springs with stock ones? Maybe get springs that'll give me some lift and remove the blocks? Airbag it?
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But on my 2000 SD V10 the hubs are worn I just cant find which way to turn them to auto ?
I'm getting popping and such so I think I'm locked while turning.
Also.... IS there a way to check the COPS with a multimeter? I think I got a bad one.
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1992 f150 4.9L, bought it a couple of months ago knowing the ac wasn't working PO had it converted to 134, said it worked great until they put on the bodylift. Compressor clutch is working, I'm sure I have some blend door issues but I've bypassed the heater for now.
AC on max, outside temp 85*, engine off high/low at 100psi, engine at idle low 55psi high 125psi, center vent reads 93*. When engine at apox. 1800-2000 rpm, low 35, high 180, center vent reads 85*.
My guess is the compressor is worn out. Is there another way to test? If I do replace what else do I need to replace? I'm hoping there's something else I can do/check before replacing the compressor.
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My rear springs are worn out
apparently ... it's not a pickup ...
seriously though ... they are worn out
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I have a 2006 Ford Fusion SE (2.3L 4-cyl.) 5-speed Manual, with 280,000 miles on it. It's been a great car with very little repairs, etc. I've noticed a little oil on the driveway - nothing big, but certainly consistent. At my last oil change, they told me I had a leak in the crankshaft seal and that I should take it to an engine shop. I'm not a 'do it yourself' kind of person when it comes to big repairs. I'd love to keep the car going another year... If I don't fix it, should I avoid oil changes? The leak doesn't seem bad and it doesn't drive any different.
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I just put new plugs in and changed the fuel filter. I also hooked it up to a ecm reader to see if there where any faults and it does not have any. I reset the computer just he same. But for some reason I can't get it going over 30 mph and when i floor it. It just doesn't go anywhere. At first it did read faults in the 6 plug but I didn't have a check engine light on i just replaced the coil and plug but now after I did everything I cant get above 30 and its scary. I just don't know what to do?
It does idle normally. As for the fuel pressure i took the filter off and turned it over and fuel runs through fine from the tank. I checked the wiring and it looks ok. No codes are present. This just started it happened a long time ago but after I changed the fuel filter it worked fine so I changed it again thinking it was the problem again but after i did it the problem still persists. I don't have any check engine light on either....
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I'm thinking about buying a 98 Explorer that has an ABS light on. I haven't looked at it yet. In the ad, the seller claims it's due to worn brake pads in the rear. If that's true, then it's not a big deal. Can the ABS light be set by worn pads? Most of my cars are too old to detect this, but even if they did, I wouldn't know because I never let my pads get that low.
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I am having a hard time figuring out what is going on with my A/C. First time you start it for the day, works great, blows cold air, but will only do it for about five minutes, then the compressor kicks off.
I have tried by-passing the high and low pressure switches, compressor still will not kick on. Checked the air-gap, it is fine, and I actually removed the shim, so there is almost no gap at all now, didn't fix the problem.
I tried replacing the A/C clutch relay, no luck there. I can tell you that if I manually push the contact in on the A/C clutch relay, the compressor kicks in and runs.
The only thing I can think of at this point is the A/C control panel in the dash, but wanted to check before I buy that expensive part and replace.
If it matters, this is on a 2000 Excursion, with the 6.8l v-10
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I have a 2000 excursion v10 with 66k miles on it. This past weekend i went to engage my 4wd and it would not work. the light on the dash is on and i think i heard a click but no luck. A buddy told me to tap the transfer case motor with a hammer but am a little skeptical. another friend told me to check the vacuum switch with the vent/ defroster but i am not sure that holds true with my yr/model (i did a test where i left the vent setting on face/feet then turned on the 4wd. the airflow seemed to remain as set). About a year ago i removed, regreased and repacked my front hubs.
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I've had a lot of problems with this truck and strongly believe the pcm is bad so i bought a used one now it wont start. Just to let you know i did put old one back in to see if it did run with it and it did. I spoke to the dealer they say I have to bring it in to program it for the PATS. I know its got to be programed but does it have to be the dealer.
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my 2000 Ex has a 6.8 and it overheats when the ac is on and anything over 60mph, im not loosing coolant, is the clutch for the fan shot??
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I am having trouble with my 2000 Excursion 7.3. It died on my wife this morning, but it started right back up and made it home(4 miles). Figured it was the CPS but when i went to hook up the code reader, it just kept saying that i needed to connect it to the vehicle first. I verified that the reader was working on both my other vehicles. Then had to go to work. I wondering if my ECM is going bad?
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My speedometer is off by around 5mph. When I'm going about 65mph it only reads about 60mph.
How is this corrected? Programming or speedometer cable gear?
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I have an intermittent problem with my 2000 Ex V10 with factory remote start. Sometimes when I put the key in to start the truck, I get nothing. I believe the theft light flashes but I am not entirely sure. Sometimes after a few tries with turning the key it will start. If I hit the button for the factory remote start it always starts, so I have never gotten stuck anywhere.
This issue could happen 2 or 3 times in a row and then not happen again for days or weeks. It's been going on for a couple of years now. What to look at. There is no telling when it will happen again though.
BTW, I have stomped the brake pedal and I have moved the gear shift when it happens and sometimes on retry it starts and sometimes it does not. When I just keep trying the key sometimes it eventually starts too, so I do not think it is the safety in the brake pedal or in the shifter, but I could be wrong.
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can i get some tips on to fix the flexplate on a 2000 ford Excursion.
Here is the details:
2000 Ford Excursion
110,000 Miles
V10
4x4
I am positive that the flexplate is bad. My friend and I are planning on doing this on saturday.
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I have been getting awful gas mileage lately. I have a 2000 6.8L V10 Excursion, so I wasn't expecting much but it got bad. I know winter weather kills gas mileage but i finally noticed I do not have fifth gear. Fluid is good, clean and not burnt and all other gears hit when they need to, what this could be besides a new tranny.
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I have a '92 Aerostar XLT with a rear control arm problem. The bushings have worn out and the rear end floats side to side as much as 1 1/2 inches. Ford says one bushing comes in the arm ( no longer avail ), one is a press in (no longer available), and the other is like a strut bushing and is available but without the other 2 there is no point in replacing the one. How to fix this enormous problem???
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My ten year old ford escape has a clunking sound up in the engine compartment when I go over speed bumps, like something is loose and is banging around (yes, I know the car is ten years old). I think I figured it out... I just noticed the radiator is a little loose and can bang around? There are two posts at the top of the radiator that go into two little rubber grommets in metal supports. you can see the posts in the grommets when you open hood right up front. anyway, the inside of the grommet is bigger than the outside diameter of the post so the post can shake around. Do these grommets wear over the years, and is it possible to just replace the rubber grommet and not the whole support?
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At about 160k I noticed that the driver side upper ball joint was worn out and had a lot of play on it , so i replaced the upper control arm including ball joint(can't just replace the stock ball joint). I bought an aftermarket one with grease nipple...
Now about 2 years and 50k later, whenever I drive through a bumpy field, it sounds like something is lose and rattling right by that front wheel ,so i took off the wheel and checked the ball joint but it still seems tight..
Although I put in too much grease and that cracked the rubber boot, just leave it or should i replace the ball joint because of that rubber boot that is ripped open?
2009 f150, XLT 4x4, 6.5 ft box ....
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