My Ex has a ProComp 6" lift that was installed in 2004 (it's an 03) and it seems that the rear springs are worn out and sagging. I'm assuming the lift used the stock springs and blocks. I haven't measured but I'd say the rear is 1" - 2"s lower in the back. Question is should I replace the springs with stock ones? Maybe get springs that'll give me some lift and remove the blocks? Airbag it?
View 14 RepliesMy rear springs are worn out
apparently ... it's not a pickup ...
seriously though ... they are worn out
Here's a pic of rear springs off a 4X2 Ex.
They look the same to me with the exception of not having the bottom overload spring with the rubber snubber on it for the axle wrap.
I need a pair of stock rear springs so I can pull the bottom two leaves off in order to do a modded B-code, and these are available for me to use if they will work.
I'm going to be installing a 4" lift on my truck and was wondering what the pros and cons are using springs or blocks. I have the option of going with either the pro comp 22210/22415 springs or 22210 with a 5" block. With the block I'd be saving around $200 but I guess my main concern is ride quality. Dont know if the stock rear springs have issues like the front do. I'm probably going to go all spring but it would be nice to save a few bucks.
View 14 RepliesSince I bought this '05 Ex, I have had a driveline vibration. Not bad mind you... just barely noticeable when I let off the gas going 50+ mph. I had my local Ford dealer change the Ujoints and it worked a little.
I just installed Firestone Air Bags on the rear axle. I put 20 lbs. of pressure in them and it raised the rear exactly 1 inch (I measured before and after). After the air bags were in and pressurized and the rear lifted 1 inch, I took it for a drive. WOW! The driveline vibration is completely gone. Smooth as glass.
Question that I need opinions on from those who have more experience with an Ex than I do: Did my rear springs sag enough to cause a driveline vibration? And did the lifting of 1 inch put it BACK to stock height so that the driveline is now correct?
Finally pulling the trigger on some springs so I can get this work done, Tousely prices were great on the W's compared to local dealers. Here are some questions.
1. I am planning to go with the W springs up front.
2. Can I still use the B for the rear mod, or do I need C's to keep it level? (Or F's)
3. Do I need blocks in the rear, or just the springs on the axle?
4. Do I need the 2" shackle up front?
5. I have dual Fox shocks that came with the ex when I bought it. The prior owner said they ran a little rough. Are they able to be re-valved, or is it cheaper to go with Bilstein?
In my Driveway, many times I notice my GX in the rear is sagging. I measured it from the center of the wheel up . when it appears normal it is 21". When it is sagging it measures 18". So there is 3" difference.
What is causing this, I know some will say it maybe a airbag leak. I dont think thats the case and I MAYBE wrong. Because, when I park the car with with no sag at night and the height is 21" it stays like that in the morning.
I know there are lots of idea of doing a change over to regular struts. What is the best method out there?
I know this has been discussed but I still don't understand. Hence my "dumb blonde" user name.
I just purchased a 2013 super duty f350 extended crew cab DRW.
I also purchased a 42 foot (box is 36) Goose neck Bison LQ horse trailer. Trailer weight is 12048 and tongue weight is 4468. Fully loaded I am about 18,500.
Truck pulls and stops great but it is obvious the rear suspension is sagging.
Now what? Do I need air bags? Timbren? Spring Coils? I have called several installers and they all say something different.
My daughters 95 Volvo 850 had a sagging rear bumper. I prchased new mounting brackets and removed the bumper. It turned out the brackets were for a 5 door, and her car is a 4 door. I returned to the dealership and was told that they can only get the left side bracket and that the right side bracket is no longer available. The brackets look nearly the same except the mounting holes are opposite. I went ahead and ordered two left side brackets. I am hoping to be able to drill holes in one of them to fit it on. The bumper is now off the car and the old brackets are rusted to nothing.
View 3 RepliesWhat to do with the worn out steering wheels on these rigs? Mine is worn to the point that it's getting loose on the top section.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 v10 Excursion, I have replaced the crankshaft on another vehicle before, so it's not anything new to me but with that vehicle I had a place outside where I could pull the motor out and do all the work outside of the vehicle. What I'm wondering is is it possible to replace the crankshaft while it is still in the engine compartment. I know that i will have to disconnect the transmission from the engine and slide the tranny back in order to be able to remove the crankshaft along with removing other items from under the motor, oil pan etc.
I'm just wondering I have the twin I-beam suspension for the front tires and it bolts to the cross-member so I know that I will have to unbolt the cross-member and raise and support the motor from above by chain and beam in order to remove everything from the bottom and pull out the spark plugs in order to release the pressure on the top of the pistons so that I can slide them up and down easier during removal and installation but I'm just wanting to get thoughts from everyone about whether it can be done without pulling the motor out because I don't have the area this time to pull out the motor.
Been chasing this for a few weeks and getting fed up. Have a bad metal on metal "creaking" noise from the front at low speeds.
Background - Replaced springs with X code front and modded C code rear from Junior at ATS. Also replaced shocks at the same time. All hardware tightened with weight on suspension. Have rechecked torque on ubolts many times, even loosened and retightened both ends of the shackles, sway bar links, shocks, etc.
Can't get the noise to go away. Hard to pinpoint exactly where it's coming from but you can "feel" the noise in the back half of the front springs.
Trying to figure out if my front leafs are factory or not. I assume so but they look extremely weak for a 9k rig.
View 14 RepliesI recently purchased a 2000 Ex Limited 2wd. It is stone stock except a slight lift. This lift gives it a pretty significant rake that I'm not a fan of. I'd like to get this thing leveled out without spending a fortune and I believe that would require the knowledge of the FTE.
The pictures below show the rake and existing suspension mods. With 285/75 16 Tires there is about 6" clearance from tire to fender on the front and 9.5" in the rear. It has a 2" spacer under what I imagine is the stock front coil spring and a 4" block below what do not appear to be stock leaf springs (guessing because the anti wrap spring is not present).
I'd like to get the front end to sit about 3" higher than it currently is to better match the rear. Lifts of any type are foreign to me. What front springs (and other components) do I need (and what brands would you recommend based on hard earned experience) to make this thing work?
I have a '92 Aerostar XLT with a rear control arm problem. The bushings have worn out and the rear end floats side to side as much as 1 1/2 inches. Ford says one bushing comes in the arm ( no longer avail ), one is a press in (no longer available), and the other is like a strut bushing and is available but without the other 2 there is no point in replacing the one. How to fix this enormous problem???
View 10 RepliesHave been the owner of a 96 4.0 AWD for 10 yrs and if they still made this van I would get one in a heartbeat. Been doing a search on how to replace the rear coil springs with no luck... is there special tools or procedures involved?
View 8 Replies...So I think the time has come to replace the rear springs in my SuperCrew....They are starting to sag...nothings broken...spring perches look ok. Question is , Are the supercrew springs any different than a reg cab or supercab?
View 6 RepliesI need to replace rear spring packs on our
97 Explorer sport 4.0 auto 4x4.
What years should I look for? Will 91-01 packs work?
I know of a 92 4x4 close by that is being parted out.
I have a 02 Explorer that has 2 cracked rear coil springs.
How hard are they to change ?
What brand to use ?
I was looking at the Monroe Quick-Strut.
Well I had a flat today, but that turned out to be a good thing. I noticed the rear brake pads are worn out. They are not metal to metal, but close. I have been looking at Rockauto, Pepboys and others. The funny thing is they never prompt or list different pads for the SRW vs the dually.
Are they the same including the parking brakes shoes? I was going to go with the OEM material or should I go with a ceramic pad?
I have a 99 SD 250 diesel, I also have a broken rear leaf spring. My truck has a 3 1/2 in. block between axle and leaf. My question is this. Can I remove the block and install 4" lift leaf springs without messing up my pinion angle? The blocks look square. But someone toldme once they are made to a specific angle for rotating pinion for better u joint alignment. Sounds like it could be true.
View 9 Replies