Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Rear Brake Pads Are Worn Out
Jun 26, 2015
Well I had a flat today, but that turned out to be a good thing. I noticed the rear brake pads are worn out. They are not metal to metal, but close. I have been looking at Rockauto, Pepboys and others. The funny thing is they never prompt or list different pads for the SRW vs the dually.
Are they the same including the parking brakes shoes? I was going to go with the OEM material or should I go with a ceramic pad?
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Just had 30,000 km service done and was told the rear disc brake pads are almost completely worn out. The front ones are hardly worn and I'm not a fierce type driver who jams on the brakes or one who leaves the handbrake on..
I asked the service manager how come the rears are worn yet the fronts aren't - his answer was sometimes this happens.
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Sometimes doing your own work gets pretty irritating. I just got done with my drive hub and was rotating the tires when I noticed my rear brakes need replacing. Got it all apart, no real issues until the simplest part.
Take a look at this picture. The rotor (brand new) is touching the edge of the caliper and the brake pad is too large on the immobile side. These are Duralast Rear pads from Rockauto. The rotors are for the rear but some other brand, also from rock auto.
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I bought new pads for my truck and the fronts went on with no problem at all, but when I got to the rear the tabs/ears on the pads are about 1/8 inch wider than the notch they are supposed to fit in. I bought part number BR-1067, which is supposed to fit but obviously doesn't. What part number should I have bought? My truck is a 2007 F250 Super Crew Lariat FX4.
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I am about to purchase a 2001 F450 7.3L with a 6 speed ZF6 that has a slightly worn 2nd gear synchronizer. I will be rebuilding this transmission with a friend and was wonder if there is any documentation available to assist with the overhaul.
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So my brake pads worn light came on recently on my 03 jetta...low and behold all 4 brake pads needed changing...funny though because upon buying pads with the sensor when I went to put new pads on the old ones didnt even have a sensor it was already cut at the harness and spliced together to keep the light off....so upon inspection one of the wires was black and the other copper....idk if one was supposed to be black or if its because its fried? Anyways i went as far up the wires as I could till they are harnessed in with the abs sensor wires...still one wire black....spliced together crimped and still the light comes and goes....I dont have access to the vcds or vagcom so can't turn it off that way..
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I have been having that nice thumping noise that generally accompanies worn out sway bar bushings. I did bushings last spring but a noise came back shortly thereafter. Finally got bothered enough/ found enough time to take a look at it and tracked it down to the sway bar again. My right front axle mount has taken damage before and is now all bent up, not allowing the bushing clamp to hold tight to the bushing. Pictures of the issue are below.
Front view of the entire mount.
Rear view showing the sway bar mount plate.
I am unsure what to do about this mount. As you can see it has been pretty messed up by the PO. What could be done to fix the issue?
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The brake pads worn symbol has lit up in the instrument cluster on my wife's 2008 Touareg V8. The car has 33K. Per Tom Bush VW in Jacksonville, both pads and rotors must be replaced. This is without even looking at it.
Per Osteen VW also in JAX, I might not have to replace the rotors. They stated that what they have seen is that usually the rotors don't get replaced until the second visit to replace pads.
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I noticed today (smell burning brakes) that my left rear brake is sticking on my 1999 2WD F250. I hear that this is a common problem? Is it usually a defective Caliper or emergency brake Issue? I had my rear brakes done 50k ago with rotors and rebuilt calipers (first set went 130k).... I don't think it was a total clamp down infrared temperature was 275 degrees on sticking brake and 75 degrees on the ones that were not sticking.
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I have about 50,000 miles on my pads, they look 50% gone, but couple days ago I've got short "beep" and light yellow came on(circle with several small parts of larger circle). What and why? Rotors, pads, other?
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I had a brake line crack on my way home yesterday(that was interesting..) It was the drivers side rear metal line from the splitter to the rubber hose. I went to autozone and was like ok easy enough this line is the same length and appeared to be the same diameter. bend to fit and all was well or not.. the fitting on the end was a different thread pitch and size. 1999 f250 4wd if it matters....
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After removing the tires, I can't figure out how to remove the brake pads to change them. How to do it? Does the caliper have to come off? These are on the rear. 2001 F150 4X4...
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2002 F250 diesel ... I found these two plastic pieces yesterday on the floor near the 4X4 shifter. I noticed the other day when i step on the brake the rear view camera in the head unit comes on, so i am thinking they are either a part of the brake switch on the pedal assembly, or something to do with the shift tube.
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What's with the rear brake pads wearing out before the front brake pads. Took my '03 Passat in last week to the dealer for the recall and the service dept. guy said my brake pads were worn out. I took the car to my local mechanic who specializes in VW's. Sure enough, rears were almost gone but fronts still had plenty of meat left on them. Of course I had him replace the rears. But I always thought the fronts wore out first. Could this anomaly be due to ABS?
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I'm gonna replace my front and rear brake pads. Any tips? Do I need to pull the rotor off and clean the axel? I've watched a couple of youtube videos but they leave me with a few answers. I have all the tools, what kinda lubricants will i need? Any recommendations? I hoping I can do a flawless job without and squealing...
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So, that means I have put 106,104 miles on my truck this year, and missed about 7 weeks for the truck being in the shop, could have been another 17,000.
So, it's time to replace the factory original brake pads?
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We had approximately 7000 miles on our 2014 250 when we first heard our squeaking when we applied the brakes. This happened after we had been driving a while. Took it to the dealer to see what was causing the noise. They found out it was the front brakes. They removed both front wheels to find the inner pads wearing at an angle and the caliper piston boots partly melted in middle. They ended up replacing the brake pads and calipers with new and machined rotors.
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Ok so we just replaced our front and rear brake pads and had the rotors turned. Our rear brakes are fine but both our front brakes now make a clunking/popping noise when we brake.
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03 F250 7.3. I busted a brake line last week somehow, Got it replaced and fixed up, Bled that line and everything was somewhat good.
Now, when i hit the brakes hard, I have pressure. If I let off even a little, My pedal will start to sink till i apply more pressure. I am gonna fully bleed my brakes when I'm home to see if this could solve the problem.
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I just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
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I'm thinking about buying a 98 Explorer that has an ABS light on. I haven't looked at it yet. In the ad, the seller claims it's due to worn brake pads in the rear. If that's true, then it's not a big deal. Can the ABS light be set by worn pads? Most of my cars are too old to detect this, but even if they did, I wouldn't know because I never let my pads get that low.
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