Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2014 - Brakes Squeaking - Replaced Brake Pads And Calipers?
Jun 5, 2014
We had approximately 7000 miles on our 2014 250 when we first heard our squeaking when we applied the brakes. This happened after we had been driving a while. Took it to the dealer to see what was causing the noise. They found out it was the front brakes. They removed both front wheels to find the inner pads wearing at an angle and the caliper piston boots partly melted in middle. They ended up replacing the brake pads and calipers with new and machined rotors.
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So my brakes have been squeaking for the past week. Brought it in to the dealership. They said i need new front brake pads. I only have 22k miles on my 3is and that seems like a really look mileage for the breaks to be worn off. I dont track ny car and i pretty much drive slow. How long are your brake pads lasting? Is this normal for the 3is pads to wear off this fast?
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Ok so we just replaced our front and rear brake pads and had the rotors turned. Our rear brakes are fine but both our front brakes now make a clunking/popping noise when we brake.
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I just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
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Both of my rear brake calipers hung while traveling in mountains. Both so hot that I had no brakes. Had not been riding the brakes. Had to bump them when someone pulled out in front of me. Never noticed them hanging but smelled them and then hit the brakes and no brakes. They were so hot that they blew the valve stems out of both rear tires. Once they cooled, I had brakes. What would cause both to hang up at the same time?
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I bought new pads for my truck and the fronts went on with no problem at all, but when I got to the rear the tabs/ears on the pads are about 1/8 inch wider than the notch they are supposed to fit in. I bought part number BR-1067, which is supposed to fit but obviously doesn't. What part number should I have bought? My truck is a 2007 F250 Super Crew Lariat FX4.
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So, that means I have put 106,104 miles on my truck this year, and missed about 7 weeks for the truck being in the shop, could have been another 17,000.
So, it's time to replace the factory original brake pads?
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Gen III 2010, 6800 miles. Silver. Fuzzy dice. Pads are still rattling in the calipers when I hit bump when foot is not on brake. It sounds like hell! ...like major suspension components are loose, although I know they are not. Two Toyota dealers have told me this is normal, and no danger. ...no dealer fix.
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So I just installed the Porsche Cayenne 18Z calipers onto my GTI. The install went great but now when I go around corners at speed there's a squeaking sound that comes from the brakes. I tried to epoxy the hub centric ring onto the rotor and grease up the outside of the hub where the rotor sits, but it's still squeaking.
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After coming to a complete stop & starts driving again, I notice that the brakes squeaks a few turns & then stops. It seems that the brake calipers does not fully disengage from the rotors.
2006 Touareg V6 Silver
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I have replaced booster, master cylinder, all four callipers, and bled the brake system a number of times on my 2000 F-150 4x4. and still the pedal is wicked spongy, is there some other problem?
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I recently replaced all of my brake pads with yellow stuff and they seem to be squeaking a lot. I also noticed when I am driving and I stop and let off of the brakes they don't release immediately so could it be this is the cause of the squeaks or do these brake pads just squeak like crazy? I read somewhere it could possibly be the brake lines but I don't see how this could be the cause for so much squeaking.
My truck is a 2011 F 250 diesel crew cab....
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I've got a 2011 XLT. The front rotors have been turned twice already in 39k miles. Once at 12k and again around 24k covered under warranty. It starting having vibrations on the highway and shuddering when braking again around 36k. Tired of dealing with the OEM rotors and told it would no longer be covered under warranty I went to Autozone and got duralast rotors and pads for the front.
Swapped them out Friday
- took caliper off
- removed pads
- took caliper bracket off
- swapped rotor
- opened bleed valve to push back piston(used a vise/c clamp combo)
- closed valve with piston under pressure
- put in new pads
- placed caliper bracket back on
I did not remove the pins, they seemed to slide fine and the remaining hardware still looks fairly new.
Took it out all was good, bedded the brakes a bit and called it a night. Come out this morning and start to head out and it's shaking like crazy now once above 40 mph. Made it back this afternoon and took the passenger side off and its not making full contact with the rotors. I've read this can be common until the pads are broken in. Driver side appears fine, pads appear to be bedding fine and nothing looks out of the ordinary, I took the caliper back off but had to open the bleed valve to get it loose enough to let go of the pads.
I've even taken the passenger side back off and reset the piston again just to make sure.
Put everything back together and take it for a spin. Truck seems worse now even at slow speeds 25-50mph. Once the brakes start getting hot from stopping the shaking goes away. When the brakes start cooling back down it comes right back.
Going to swap back the OEM rotors and retest in the morning. Will take the new ones back If that puts it back to normal I may just replace with OEM ones then. The brakes work perfect it's just the shaking that I can't seem to figure out.
Anything to check? It seems like the new rotors are warped
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I recently had rotors and brake pads replaced on my 2007 Camry (front pads/rotors and read pads/rotors).
It was done last week and she is braking fine. But sometimes now when I brake there's a low-medium squeaking sound from the brakes. Is this normal / what's the likely cause?
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Well I had a flat today, but that turned out to be a good thing. I noticed the rear brake pads are worn out. They are not metal to metal, but close. I have been looking at Rockauto, Pepboys and others. The funny thing is they never prompt or list different pads for the SRW vs the dually.
Are they the same including the parking brakes shoes? I was going to go with the OEM material or should I go with a ceramic pad?
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Got new Nissan brake pads out in by my local mechanic. I noticed they squeak a little going slowly in reverse. Why and what I can do?
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Brought my car for an oil change at 42000 km (26000 mi) and asked the dealership to check my brakes since I've been hearing a noise for the last 2 weeks. Ended up having to replace both rear disks and pads. Dealer said everything was seized up and that they were able to rescue my front brakes by doing brakes service on them.
Next day, the exact same thing on my girlfriend's 2012 Accent..! Dealer told me that brakes need to be serviced every single year to avoid this...! Really??? I never heard of that before and needless to say, I didn't expect to get a 500$ + bill on a new car...
I checked with my mechanic and he did inspect my brakes at 24000 km (14900 mi) as I asked him and that everything was working perfectly.
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My son was hearing a bit of a squeaking on the passenger side. So I decided after some time to pull the front wheel. (most important brake). Well the pad wasn't moving on the outer guides (serviced it as required and lubed to get it moving). But the lower guide pin wouldn't move in/out. Needed to drift it out and it was very well rusted end to end. I put new pads on early as year I am sure and all was fine. I cleaned the pin on my wire wheel grinder. That lower pin had a collar near then end. Turns out its rubber, I thought it was a metal spring collar. Oh well the wire wheel did a number on it. I don't know the significant of that piece nor whether the pin is in the right place since the top one is different. I do these one at a time so its almost impossible I swapped them in the number of times they've been out.
I never seen so much tightening on any vehicle of pads and pins rusting in as on this vehicle. One has to wonder why. My vehicle also seems to have or what sound like a gear slap upon engaging in reverse or forward from front and back which is most notable after sitting and first engaged. Not every time but this is built in 2007 and there is a TSB for some washers. Hyundai Canada does NOT use the same TSB number they have their own. I talked to a dealer about it but he never indicated it would be the cause only its a different number. I am not impressed in this AWD drive power train. It needs a lot of TLC and the slap I hear is typically due to power train engagement play/slack being excessive most likely due to wear somewhere.. Even my rear sound off not a howl but noisy running which doesn't change with road surfaces so its not the tires. Maybe the AWD bearing or unit going. No of this should even remotely close to needed anything for at least another 100-150k at least.
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Replacing remaining three calipers on my 2006 F-350 2wd as a preventative measure after I had a drag on the left front. Passenger side front being difficult. Caliper won't slide off pads. I believe pins are stuck but it doesn't seem they've got the caliper stuck - appears that I can't get pistons to stay compressed enough to clear pads. Caliper has some wiggle on pads - just not enough.
I tried multiple C-clamp iterations but can't get there just yet. I'd rather not fool with the bracket and removal won't fix my problem, just allow me to work it on the bench. I do have a replacement caliper, so damaging it to get it off is an option. I have sprayed Kroil into the piston seals in a Hail Mary when I pick this up tomorrow.
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Put new pads on by 2006 Passat tonight. Disconnected the battery removed the calipers and used a 12 volt battery to retract the pbrake then pushed back the pistons. Buttoned everything up but when I started the car had the park brake fault light and car is now in limp mode (3rd gear only with harsh engagements.
Disconnected the battery again and will let it sit.
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Looking for instructions on how to replace emergency brake pads on a 2003 F250 2-wheel drive Ford truck?
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