Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Noise From Brakes At 26,000 Miles And Replaced Rear Disks And Pads
Aug 7, 2014
Brought my car for an oil change at 42000 km (26000 mi) and asked the dealership to check my brakes since I've been hearing a noise for the last 2 weeks. Ended up having to replace both rear disks and pads. Dealer said everything was seized up and that they were able to rescue my front brakes by doing brakes service on them.
Next day, the exact same thing on my girlfriend's 2012 Accent..! Dealer told me that brakes need to be serviced every single year to avoid this...! Really??? I never heard of that before and needless to say, I didn't expect to get a 500$ + bill on a new car...
I checked with my mechanic and he did inspect my brakes at 24000 km (14900 mi) as I asked him and that everything was working perfectly.
View 15 Replies
Advertisement
I just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
View 2 Replies
I didn't need to replace the rear shoes. I just did it because the front brake pads were worn and I thought the rear shoes might be worn also. The front brakes were super easy to replace. The rear brakes not so easy. I ended up using a breaker bar and a 32mm axle socket wrench just to loosen the spindle/hub nut so I could remove the brake drum.
I re-assembled the brakes shoes and springs exactly like it shows in my Haynes manual. The new shoes are shaped identical to the ones I replaced. Now I can't get the shoes to seat tight when I apply the brakes and my parking brake isn't working at all, although I can see the parking brake lever move on the trailing shoe when the lever on the console in the car is raised and lowered.
I did as the manual directed. After putting the wheels back on, I applied the brakes "forcefully" a number of times while I was driving forward and backward. This was supposed to auto adjust the brakes. There is no adjuster slot. (The front brakes are stopping fine.)
The old shoes weren't that worn when I replaced them, so the parking brake shouldn't be totally out of adjustment. I don't want to remove the console and start messing with the parking brake cable adjustment until I can figure out what I must have done wrong when I worked on the rear brakes. It seems like the adjuster lever pawl is not working?
View 6 Replies
The uneven wear occurred again, this time only giving me 22,644 miles on the rear brakes. So, I am on my third set of rear brakes at 78,000 miles.
This time the dealer contacted the district rep since this was a repeat occurrence. It turns out a week after my first rear brake job, Toyota issued T-SB-0248-12, for this very problem, on the 2010 - 2012 Prius and on the 2012 Prius PHV. There is a new brake pad that is supposed to address this problem. The old part number that was put on my car during the first brake job was 04466-76011 and the new part number is 04466-47080. The receipt also shows Brake Shim Grease part number 08887-80409, which is noted in the TSB.
Toyota did the right thing in that they covered the cost of the brake job I just had done. I just opened a case asking to be reimbursed for the first brake job since this turned out to be a problem that was addressed with a new part.
I suggest anyone with a 2010-2012 Prius or 2012 Prius PHV that needs rear brakes, make sure you insist on getting this updated pad and point out this TSB. My service adviser said they were going to replace all of their pads with the old part number with the updated pad, so other customers going forward receive this new pad, though he also said they just don't do a lot of Prius brake jobs.
View 11 Replies
ok, here's the story about my brake change on a 2012 elantra GLS. I changed my pads and rotors myself, he has done many brake jobs with little to no problems over he years. anyway, changed them on all four wheels and now on the drivers side there is a slight noise that happens sometimes. The noise happens once very rotation of the tire/rotor, not a constant noise. it sounds almost like the pads are hitting the rotor at a certain point and making a grind noise. the brakes seems to function properly and the noise happens only when rolling at slow speeds or when accelerating from a stop.
I have done everything properly, even used some caliper glue to hold the pads against the caliper. what my question is, is there anyway that the rotor is warped from the manufacturer? it sounds like it is warped and the pads hit it once every rotation. I have opened them up 3 times now to make sure everything is proper, even put it in drive jacked up with no wheel on it to see if its running smooth, of course it wont make the noise when jacked up.
View 24 Replies
Had rotors and pads replaced 40,000 miles ago at brakes plus. I went in last week to have them checked and the front pads were almost like new but the rear pads were down to 2mm and now they have to be replaced.
View 5 Replies
We had approximately 7000 miles on our 2014 250 when we first heard our squeaking when we applied the brakes. This happened after we had been driving a while. Took it to the dealer to see what was causing the noise. They found out it was the front brakes. They removed both front wheels to find the inner pads wearing at an angle and the caliper piston boots partly melted in middle. They ended up replacing the brake pads and calipers with new and machined rotors.
View 14 Replies
I'm not sure if this is the proper operation of the disc brakes because all my cars in the past were front disc and rear drum. A search turned up nothing useful so here I am.
To me, the sensation I'm having is the rear brakes are activating before the front. I sense the rear going down before the front. I don't hear any squealing or grinding. I also don't feel any vibration while braking. Perhaps it's a sensory illusion? Or is this the normal operation of disc brakes?
View 11 Replies
It is 10 degrees now (-12 C). I softly engaged the clutch and noticed the car wasn't moving. I tapped on the gas lightly and the car was trying to move, but couldn't. I finally gave it a lot of gas and there was a huge POP sound. When I park my car, I leave e-brake engaged. Are brakes suppose to stick that bad in cold weather? The Pop sounded like a .45 Pistol!!
View 9 Replies
Well this makes the 3rd time I am going to have to take my car into the dealer because of the right rear brakes. I had a guy pull up to me yesterday and tell me that I had smoke coming out of my right rear wheel, I pulled over nd the rotor had a slight blue glow to it and the caliper was smoking. This is starting to get old, I wonder when the lemon law kicks in on something like this?
View 8 Replies
I am trying to change pads on the rear disc brakes. I got everything apart but can't get the piston to retract to get the new pads in. I am turning the piston clockwise with needle nose plyers and it isn't retracting. What do I need to do?
View 7 Replies
In less than 30,000 miles, I've replace the clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate three times. Dealer adjuster clutch at 12,500. First replacement at 15,000 miles. I do not ride the clutch
View 8 Replies
At about 25,000 miles I had one of my rear brake pads sticking so had to change the rear brakes. The non-stuck pads on the other side looked decent still, so I'm assuming I'd have gotten quite a few more miles out of them if the one hadn't been sticking. Changed the front pads at about the same time, although they were in pretty good shape still (but it was taken apart already, so did them while it was apart and the chance was there). At about 50,000 miles later the rear pads are again unevenly (and I feel perhaps prematurely?) worn, and the fronts look fine. Is it something with the screw-type e-brake mechanism on the rear disc brake that lends itself to sticking? Or am I just especially unfortunate?
View 10 Replies
Any fix for the rear brake noise I am getting on a 2001 Elantra. I pulled the drums off and inspected the drums and shoes all looks fine. Then I adjusted the brakes cleaned everything and still get noise. It occurs as the vehicle is coming to a stop last 10mph to stop.
View 13 Replies
Last week I replaced my stock 2016 Elantra's brake pad's with Wagner Thermoquiet another forum user recommended, came with new hardware (seats), however not new 'plates' (that are on the side of the pads), so I had to reuse the old ones which were quite dirty/ old looking. Anyway, I understand due to the old rotors being on there, I'm going to hear some unusual noise when letting off the brakes until broken in, however, squealing when I press the brakes? (Only happens at low speeds, like drive through window.) I greased all the metal components that make contact with the caliper. I NEVER experienced squealing with the old pads, & these are "supposed to be quiet & more efficient". I'm going to take the wheels off & look at them tomorrow. What I can do?
View 15 Replies
I recently bought a new Elantra 2012, 2 months ago. While driving it during the first month, I heard a strange vibrating noise. I went to the dealer, since it's under warranty until 2019, and they told me that when Hyundai did their recall on their Engines, the head gasket was constructed wrong and they just had to order another head to fix it.
Fast-forward two weeks and I finally got my car back. At first, it's perfect! No noise or anything, but about a week later, yesterday, it starts to make the noise again.
For my second noise, I know it's the brakes. They squeak when I stop, even though the company I bought the car from is not allowed to sell brakes >50%, I'm assuming they did anyway. The problem I have with this is that yesterday, while on the highway, the breaks made the squealing noise regardless if I was braking or not. As long as the car was in motion, it made noise. Should I be concerned about this?
View 1 Replies
Are the parking brakes on rear disks adjustable at all? Mine doesn't hold very well anymore, but I'm not quite ready to rebuild the whole thing. If there are adjusters (similar to drums), which way you turn them on which side of the truck?
View 6 Replies
I have a lot of fun and satisfaction working on my GX and noticed that the rear brake pads soon will need to be replaced. I know how to take off the front rotors by putting some DW-40 and using a rubber mallet to get them off. However because of the parking brake, I don't know how to get the rotor out so I can resurface it, which at this point don't look that bad anyway. How to get the rear rotors off? I have to do my wife's ES350 too so I figure I'll do mine first then hers.
View 14 Replies
Actually this started occurring at around 10k miles and I find it odd this would happen this early. It seems to happen more often on cold days and after a couple stops its gone. Why is this? I have heard of premature brake where on these cars and that braking power is biased towards the back under normal braking. I really do not how there is reduced brake dive using the brakes this way but its a vw. Is it just the stock pads that are bad?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2004 Chevy 1500. I replaced my rear brake pads on Monday. I noticed all week that the rear brakes were running hot, but the salesman at the parts store told me that it was okay. Friday I pulled off the pads and saw that one side had started to burn. Saturday I replaced the calipers and another set of pads. Today, Sunday, I noticed that the rear brakes are still hotter than the front brakes.
View 5 Replies
I performed brake maintenance today with my brother on my 2010 corolla CE, my front rotors were warped and my pads were used ( and also uneven) and I replaced both front rotors and pads.
The install went smoothly, my brother changed a couple of brakes sets and knew what he was doing and showed me up.
Took it for a spin, the brakes work very nicely ( i bought the ceramic wagner bundle ) but theres a slight grinding noise when driving, like the pads are touching and rubbing a bit too much on the rotor, but the driving is unnafected. Also, there's a sqealing noise coming from either side when you turn only.
Braking itself produces no noise whatsoever, only when you turn that it squeals.
View 4 Replies
