Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2011 - Rear Brakes Are Activating Before The Front
Jan 7, 2013
I'm not sure if this is the proper operation of the disc brakes because all my cars in the past were front disc and rear drum. A search turned up nothing useful so here I am.
To me, the sensation I'm having is the rear brakes are activating before the front. I sense the rear going down before the front. I don't hear any squealing or grinding. I also don't feel any vibration while braking. Perhaps it's a sensory illusion? Or is this the normal operation of disc brakes?
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It is 10 degrees now (-12 C). I softly engaged the clutch and noticed the car wasn't moving. I tapped on the gas lightly and the car was trying to move, but couldn't. I finally gave it a lot of gas and there was a huge POP sound. When I park my car, I leave e-brake engaged. Are brakes suppose to stick that bad in cold weather? The Pop sounded like a .45 Pistol!!
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Well this makes the 3rd time I am going to have to take my car into the dealer because of the right rear brakes. I had a guy pull up to me yesterday and tell me that I had smoke coming out of my right rear wheel, I pulled over nd the rotor had a slight blue glow to it and the caliper was smoking. This is starting to get old, I wonder when the lemon law kicks in on something like this?
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Brought my car for an oil change at 42000 km (26000 mi) and asked the dealership to check my brakes since I've been hearing a noise for the last 2 weeks. Ended up having to replace both rear disks and pads. Dealer said everything was seized up and that they were able to rescue my front brakes by doing brakes service on them.
Next day, the exact same thing on my girlfriend's 2012 Accent..! Dealer told me that brakes need to be serviced every single year to avoid this...! Really??? I never heard of that before and needless to say, I didn't expect to get a 500$ + bill on a new car...
I checked with my mechanic and he did inspect my brakes at 24000 km (14900 mi) as I asked him and that everything was working perfectly.
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My 2011 GX460 just hit 30K and now the front brakes occasionally squeak.
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So I have a 2011 Elantra GLS with just over 20,000mi on it. I noticed today when I make a sharp left turn there is a grinding noise from the passenger front wheel. Almost sounds like the rotors are grinding on the shields. I am going to the dealer in two days to have it looked at, This is the only situation where I hear the noise.
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I have been frustrated with my Elantra's handling from the time I purchased. I feel that the car is setup poorly and has design/OEM part issues.
I have improved the rear-end "hop" issue by replacing the OEM rear shocks with the KYB Gas-A-Just's -- a big improvement in handling the bumps. But the rear-end solid axle on such a light car is just crap...
I have developed quite a bit of 'clunking' noise in the front suspension.
I am considering replacing the front-end shock-strut assemblies with KYBs -- I'd love to hear if it made a big difference. Also wondering if I should change-out the 'sway bar link' while replacing the shock/struts.
I'm just so frustrated with the way this car handles (I've driven Subaru's, Honda's, and VW's) compared to other cars. I feel it's a combination of low-quality OEM suspension parts, rear solid axle, light weight, crappy electric steering settings, and tires that are too wide and too low-profile for such a light car. (I have the limited with 17 wheels).
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How the black trim on the bottom of the front bumper of a 2011 Elantra GLS is removed . I am talking about the black lip or air dam in the center. Does it just pull off or are there clips or something.
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My anti-lock brakes keep activating when i am slowing down from a speed above 10 mph once i reach a mphh. I have just installed koni sports on the front and bg springs all around with 20mm wheels spacers in the rear. The sound is coming from the driver side wheel and i can feel the brake pedal reacting in the way it does when the anti-lock brakes are activating. I haven't had a chance to take the wheel back of and check the sensors and wires.
It makes a grinding and popping kind of noise, which again remind me of anti-lock brakes.
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I use a bottle hanging like an I.V. drip to flush the Brake Fluid in all my cars. I can pump all the old fluid out, as well as the air. My Superduty 7.3 has a good solid brake pedal after the flush. It seems to me the rear brakes handle 60% of the stopping load. Its been like this for so long I'm not sure if it's ever been different. i then go to a gravel or wet road and test the rear abs, and it seems o work, but definitely has a squirrely feel. I did some strong pavement stops with speed, and it stops, no skidding. Is that the way it should be?
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As I've been doing work on the rear struts I noticed drag on the rear wheels when the car is jacked up. It's definitely the brakes. At first I dismissed it thinking it was the rotor going out of alignment when the tension from the wheel lug nuts is released (I don't have the retaining screws on the rotor). I can turn the wheels by hand but there is definite resistance.
However, yesterday I asked someone to listen to the rear wheels while the engine was off and the car was moving slowly. They could hear the sound of pads against the rotors. There is no smell nor do I notice any extra heat.
The caliper pistons move very easily and I'm fairly confident they're not stuck. The rotors and pads are in great shape. So I'm assuming it's an issue with the parking brake cable. But, I don't even know where to start. The parking brake seems to work fine otherwise.
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I have Elantra GT 2006 with traction control and ABS, disk brakes. The rear right wheel is overheating. Checked if sliding pins are moving. They were fine. With working engine if brake pedal is pressed wheel does not move, pedal is released and wheel can rotate. Three days ago I replaced rear right caliper together with the caliper hose. It did not work. After driving in city for 15-20 minutes right rear wheel will be hot to the point that you cannot hold your hand (left rear and front ones are barely worm). I tried to remove the fuses for ABS and it did not work.
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I have a 2011CRV 2 wheel drive that is making a clunking noise in the front brakes every time I take my foot off of the pedal. I took it to the dealer twice and both times they told me that there is nothing they can do about it. They said it has to do with the way the pads wear but said that even when I change them the clunk probably won't go away. I have never heard a car do this.
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Well my car is back at the dealer, again. Last week they replaced the brain for the ABS and everything on the right rear. Well driving up to and back from Redding, Ca.the brakes started dragging again on the right rear.
This time the rotor had a orage tint to it from the heat when I looked at it. The gas mileage sucks and now this. If I have to take it back for a 3rd time, I am getting rid of it.
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I didn't need to replace the rear shoes. I just did it because the front brake pads were worn and I thought the rear shoes might be worn also. The front brakes were super easy to replace. The rear brakes not so easy. I ended up using a breaker bar and a 32mm axle socket wrench just to loosen the spindle/hub nut so I could remove the brake drum.
I re-assembled the brakes shoes and springs exactly like it shows in my Haynes manual. The new shoes are shaped identical to the ones I replaced. Now I can't get the shoes to seat tight when I apply the brakes and my parking brake isn't working at all, although I can see the parking brake lever move on the trailing shoe when the lever on the console in the car is raised and lowered.
I did as the manual directed. After putting the wheels back on, I applied the brakes "forcefully" a number of times while I was driving forward and backward. This was supposed to auto adjust the brakes. There is no adjuster slot. (The front brakes are stopping fine.)
The old shoes weren't that worn when I replaced them, so the parking brake shouldn't be totally out of adjustment. I don't want to remove the console and start messing with the parking brake cable adjustment until I can figure out what I must have done wrong when I worked on the rear brakes. It seems like the adjuster lever pawl is not working?
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Any fix for the rear brake noise I am getting on a 2001 Elantra. I pulled the drums off and inspected the drums and shoes all looks fine. Then I adjusted the brakes cleaned everything and still get noise. It occurs as the vehicle is coming to a stop last 10mph to stop.
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Mostly highway miles. Squeal doesn't happen all the time, only sometimes.
The pads I bought were from O'Reily's here and I believe they were BrakeBest Ceramic brake pads. Should I give it some more time for the squeal to go away? could it have been a poor brake job? (I didn't do it)
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I new 2015 Elantra LTD. has terribly grabby brakes in a certain scenario. That scenario is, it is rainy or wet, and I'm going very slowly, like in a parking lot. When I touch the brake pedal very lightly, the car stops abruptly! And I mean abruptly. As quick as the car comes to a halt, and not intended to, I suspect it is the front brakes. Not sure if it is the new brake pads acting peculiar, or some other issue. But, the brake grabbing problem isn't present when its dry and going slow, or when I'm going normal speeds when its wet.
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The brakes on my 2014 Elantra Sport grind when they are wet/it's raining. They seem fine when dry.
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so in my 2012 Elantra GLS, I just spent $500 on new brakes rotors ... and it's been roughly 7 or 8 days, and I am seeing some rust on the brakes and rotors, I'm no expert on cars, but it doesn't look normal. Hopefully, it is normal so I can stop stressing.
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I have had this happen the last couple times I use my car in the cold. It has been around 25-30 F and when I pull out of my driveway the first time/maybe second time I touch the brakes it forcefully stops and feels as though only the front brakes are engaging. As I drive the car that trip it has yet to happen and the brakes preform normally. I am not used to disk brakes and I am thinking it is maybe that? The only other thing I could think of is that the brakes need to warm up a bit and pressing them still cold illicit that jerked response. I have read through a number of threads on brakes and I cannot seem to find this happening.
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