Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Rear Brakes Slightly Engaged At All Times
Dec 16, 2013
As I've been doing work on the rear struts I noticed drag on the rear wheels when the car is jacked up. It's definitely the brakes. At first I dismissed it thinking it was the rotor going out of alignment when the tension from the wheel lug nuts is released (I don't have the retaining screws on the rotor). I can turn the wheels by hand but there is definite resistance.
However, yesterday I asked someone to listen to the rear wheels while the engine was off and the car was moving slowly. They could hear the sound of pads against the rotors. There is no smell nor do I notice any extra heat.
The caliper pistons move very easily and I'm fairly confident they're not stuck. The rotors and pads are in great shape. So I'm assuming it's an issue with the parking brake cable. But, I don't even know where to start. The parking brake seems to work fine otherwise.
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My elantra seems loose in the rear end when cornering on slightly rough bends just seems to want to skip the tyres are correct pressure have good tread and shocks don't seem to bounce to much.
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I have Elantra GT 2006 with traction control and ABS, disk brakes. The rear right wheel is overheating. Checked if sliding pins are moving. They were fine. With working engine if brake pedal is pressed wheel does not move, pedal is released and wheel can rotate. Three days ago I replaced rear right caliper together with the caliper hose. It did not work. After driving in city for 15-20 minutes right rear wheel will be hot to the point that you cannot hold your hand (left rear and front ones are barely worm). I tried to remove the fuses for ABS and it did not work.
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I didn't need to replace the rear shoes. I just did it because the front brake pads were worn and I thought the rear shoes might be worn also. The front brakes were super easy to replace. The rear brakes not so easy. I ended up using a breaker bar and a 32mm axle socket wrench just to loosen the spindle/hub nut so I could remove the brake drum.
I re-assembled the brakes shoes and springs exactly like it shows in my Haynes manual. The new shoes are shaped identical to the ones I replaced. Now I can't get the shoes to seat tight when I apply the brakes and my parking brake isn't working at all, although I can see the parking brake lever move on the trailing shoe when the lever on the console in the car is raised and lowered.
I did as the manual directed. After putting the wheels back on, I applied the brakes "forcefully" a number of times while I was driving forward and backward. This was supposed to auto adjust the brakes. There is no adjuster slot. (The front brakes are stopping fine.)
The old shoes weren't that worn when I replaced them, so the parking brake shouldn't be totally out of adjustment. I don't want to remove the console and start messing with the parking brake cable adjustment until I can figure out what I must have done wrong when I worked on the rear brakes. It seems like the adjuster lever pawl is not working?
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Any fix for the rear brake noise I am getting on a 2001 Elantra. I pulled the drums off and inspected the drums and shoes all looks fine. Then I adjusted the brakes cleaned everything and still get noise. It occurs as the vehicle is coming to a stop last 10mph to stop.
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Here's the scoop: 2 year old clutch & flywheel with 21,000 miles on them. Clutch master cyl. is full & not leaking. The clutch slave cyl. moves when the clutch is pressed & is also not leaking. The shifter linkage has been checked at the shifter and moves freely as it should.
I started the car, put it in gear, let the clutch out and there is no movement from the car regardless of the engine revs. The engine runs freely and does not die with the clutch engaged and the transaxle in gear. Putting it in ANY gear (including reverse) has no effect. The car will not move.
After turning the engine off I left the car in gear, left the e-brake disengaged, released the foot brake and the car stayed put. I then put the shifter into neutral, let the foot brake off and the car began to roll. I stopped, put the shifter back into 1st, let the foot brake off and the car was again stationary and did not roll. This tells me that the shifter linkage indeed works and that the car WILL go into gear. So, why won't the car move under power?
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My 02 elantra gls 5 speed clutch has gotten stuck engaged for about the third time now. First time was right after I bought the car i noticed the clutch would slip randomly for no reason. At first i thought the clutch must need replaced, but then other times I couldn't make it slip if i tried by going up steep hills with car full of people and shifting too soon on purpose and punching gas....no slip. So anyways i replaced the slave cylinder, and all was good till one day my wife calls me up stranded and says clutch pedal is rock hard and none of the gears will engage. so i tow the car home and fiddle around and realized the slave cylinder (brand new one) was stuck out. I opened the bleeder and it returned without me having to push on it or anything. i then bled the system thoroughly. So months have gone by and the slave cylinder got stuck out again, and again it was a simple turn of the bleeder valve and it went back and works fine. just curious as to how i can fix this problem permanently since its irritating and seems to be reoccurring. do i need to replace the master cylinder as well or did i buy a bad slave cylinder?
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My 2001 Corolla S has 215,000 miles on it. I bought it used when it had 192,000 miles on it. The transmission slightly slips gears, rear brakes need changed, and a couple sway bar links. I can get the sway bar links replaced soon along with the brakes. The car has been very reliable since I've had it. I've gotten the oil changed routinely and added fuel injection about every 10,000 miles. I do not drive the car aggressively, and it hardly ever goes over 3,000 rpm.
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My 2006 Elantra is having a problem I think within the shifting box area. When the cars and park I have a 50-50 chance of the vehicle starting. This does not have anything to do with the break or the switch on the side of the shifter. The transmission while driving is fun and there is no slippage between the gears.
I've opened up the gearbox area and I found we're at the shifter hard into park forwards the car seems to start more consistently. The shifter seems to be very slightly loose. The little orange marks indicating the placement of the shift is not "aligned" with park. It's a bit off. However when I opened the gearbox and I push the cable on the right of the shifter forwards and turn the key, the car consistently starts. Now, I'm wondering if this problem with the cable or maybe a switch in the front? Parts to replace?
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So I've had a habit of slightly engaging my clutch at stop lights so that the transition to the gas is easier and quicker. Never had a problem until today where I smelt the dreaded clutch burn odor. I think I had it too engaged since it was sorta lugging at a standstill for a bit, but in general is this a bad idea? If I don't go as aggressive as the lugging feeling but slightly release it, am I doing damage?
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Passat moving forward very slightly every few seconds while stopped with auto stop button engaged? It happened twice to me today on a flat surface.
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I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE (automatic transmission) with 90000 miles on it.
For a long time now I have dealt with a whining sound in my 2012 Toyota corolla. The symptoms are that the sound only happens when the accelerator pedal is slightly engaged. This happens at any speed. At the slightest push of the pedal a whining/spinning sound happens and if you maintain pedal engagement the sound of whining/spinning continues. The sound goes away instantly when the pedal is depressed and will again come back when engaged subsequent times.
I have been researching on the internet and I seem to be pointed in the direction of the transmission fluid to change from the Toyota Genuine ATF WS currently being used in the 2012 Toyota Corolla as the stock transmission fluid to Redline D4 as others have experienced a similar noise problem in 2010 corolla models and have made the noise go away by using the Redline D4 because of viscosity differences. I am not sure however if the same transmission model (U341E) is being used in all Corolla models.
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In less than 30,000 miles, I've replace the clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate three times. Dealer adjuster clutch at 12,500. First replacement at 15,000 miles. I do not ride the clutch
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I'm not sure if this is the proper operation of the disc brakes because all my cars in the past were front disc and rear drum. A search turned up nothing useful so here I am.
To me, the sensation I'm having is the rear brakes are activating before the front. I sense the rear going down before the front. I don't hear any squealing or grinding. I also don't feel any vibration while braking. Perhaps it's a sensory illusion? Or is this the normal operation of disc brakes?
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It is 10 degrees now (-12 C). I softly engaged the clutch and noticed the car wasn't moving. I tapped on the gas lightly and the car was trying to move, but couldn't. I finally gave it a lot of gas and there was a huge POP sound. When I park my car, I leave e-brake engaged. Are brakes suppose to stick that bad in cold weather? The Pop sounded like a .45 Pistol!!
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Well this makes the 3rd time I am going to have to take my car into the dealer because of the right rear brakes. I had a guy pull up to me yesterday and tell me that I had smoke coming out of my right rear wheel, I pulled over nd the rotor had a slight blue glow to it and the caliper was smoking. This is starting to get old, I wonder when the lemon law kicks in on something like this?
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Ok, i have a 2006 elantra with traction control steering (TCS). Brake master cylinder went bad so i replaced that. Now the brakes occasionally start grinding when i'm driving slowly and turning (usually happens when turning into a parking spot). When I jam the brakes down they usually catch. Sometimes the ABS and TCS lights will come on after this happens.
Another problem i've had is that is not connected to the braking is that the ABS and TCS lights will come on and the car will not shift and this is going like 55 - 60 mph. I've found that if i throw the car in neutral, cut it off and back on that everything is fine. This is my first hyundai and first car with TCS. I bout this car used with 75000 miles and have only had it about 3 months.
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Brought my car for an oil change at 42000 km (26000 mi) and asked the dealership to check my brakes since I've been hearing a noise for the last 2 weeks. Ended up having to replace both rear disks and pads. Dealer said everything was seized up and that they were able to rescue my front brakes by doing brakes service on them.
Next day, the exact same thing on my girlfriend's 2012 Accent..! Dealer told me that brakes need to be serviced every single year to avoid this...! Really??? I never heard of that before and needless to say, I didn't expect to get a 500$ + bill on a new car...
I checked with my mechanic and he did inspect my brakes at 24000 km (14900 mi) as I asked him and that everything was working perfectly.
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I am having some brake problems. They started grinding really hard suddenly one night while I was at work (delivery) on the passenger side and having recently replaced my driver's side wheel bearing I thought maybe something was wrong with the other one (seeing as how they have the same number of miles on them) that was causing my brakes to get wonky.
Drove to my Dad's to enlist his expertise. When we got it all taken apart the first thing we noticed was the rim of the rotor was all eaten up. Then we got the pads off and saw they were completely worn all the way down to the metal only on the outer edge, so they are wearing at a diagonal. Same for the back and front pad but the front pad was worse.
We thought the caliper was sticking and causing that since it was hard to move before taking it off, so we replaced and regreased the pins, and put on a new rotor and break pads.
Decided to take the other side apart to see what it was doing. Same story just not all the way through the pad yet but quickly heading that way. However the caliper pins on this side were easy to compress and quick to pop back so things were starting to stink like that wasn't our problem on the other side either.
We had a very tough time getting the caliper, although fully compressed, back on with the new brake pads. It was a struggle to make it work, but we did and then I made my drive back with less than optimal braking power which was probably not a great idea (3 hour drive.)
My dad had a sleepless night that night because nothing added up for him as to why the pads were wearing that way and having so many problems. In the morning he got online on Advanced Auto's website where we bought all our parts and then compared their brake pads to ones on OReiley's website. Well OReiley's offers two different styles of brake pad one which has a tab on the outer edge and one that doesn't. The pads that came on my car when I got it didn't have this tab and the ones Advanced auto sold us which I put on my car the time before I started having all these problems, did have a tab.
We are pretty sure this tab is causing the brake pad to sit in the caliper at an angle because the opening in the caliper is not big enough for the tab to clear it. This is why my pads are wearing at an angle, and only the outer edge of the pad is making contact with the rotor. I really only had like 20% braking power!
I still had the brake pads that came on the car when I got it so I popped those on with the old rotors before I went to work tonight (they still have a ton of pad left and its a long story why I replaced them) it's not ideal but I have WAY better braking now and its a temporary fix until I get this sorted out.
Why Advanced auto sold me these pads that don't work with my car TWICE or what I was supposed to know before going in to buy brake pads? Generally I trust that when I got in there and tell them what my car is and ask for a part they will give me the part that works with my car. And one time being wrong is fine but twice at two different stores?
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I know- another noise diagnosis thread but I'm very confused and worried about these noises coming from the front of my car. It's a creaking noise that's most noticeable when I engaged the brakes. I first assumed it was an engine mount- hopefully it is. I'm replacing my vf dogbone bushings before Tod. But this doesn't sound like rubber creaking, by metal. Like the chassis by the strut mounts. I hope it's nothing regarding the v3's. Maybe it's something with the brakes? I also hear I slightly when going over speed bumps. Again, I doesn't sound like the rubbery rear sway creaking. What could be the cause? I'm replacing the pads and fluid before Tod as well..
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i just realized that when i apply my paddle emergency (parking) brake, the light on dash does not come ON. However when i turn the key on i can see there is parking brake light on dash and it also comes on.
Why its not showing the light when the parking brakes are engaged ? is it safe ? is it could be a fuse or cable from lever?
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