Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Brakes Started Grinding Really Hard Suddenly
Dec 4, 2012
I am having some brake problems. They started grinding really hard suddenly one night while I was at work (delivery) on the passenger side and having recently replaced my driver's side wheel bearing I thought maybe something was wrong with the other one (seeing as how they have the same number of miles on them) that was causing my brakes to get wonky.
Drove to my Dad's to enlist his expertise. When we got it all taken apart the first thing we noticed was the rim of the rotor was all eaten up. Then we got the pads off and saw they were completely worn all the way down to the metal only on the outer edge, so they are wearing at a diagonal. Same for the back and front pad but the front pad was worse.
We thought the caliper was sticking and causing that since it was hard to move before taking it off, so we replaced and regreased the pins, and put on a new rotor and break pads.
Decided to take the other side apart to see what it was doing. Same story just not all the way through the pad yet but quickly heading that way. However the caliper pins on this side were easy to compress and quick to pop back so things were starting to stink like that wasn't our problem on the other side either.
We had a very tough time getting the caliper, although fully compressed, back on with the new brake pads. It was a struggle to make it work, but we did and then I made my drive back with less than optimal braking power which was probably not a great idea (3 hour drive.)
My dad had a sleepless night that night because nothing added up for him as to why the pads were wearing that way and having so many problems. In the morning he got online on Advanced Auto's website where we bought all our parts and then compared their brake pads to ones on OReiley's website. Well OReiley's offers two different styles of brake pad one which has a tab on the outer edge and one that doesn't. The pads that came on my car when I got it didn't have this tab and the ones Advanced auto sold us which I put on my car the time before I started having all these problems, did have a tab.
We are pretty sure this tab is causing the brake pad to sit in the caliper at an angle because the opening in the caliper is not big enough for the tab to clear it. This is why my pads are wearing at an angle, and only the outer edge of the pad is making contact with the rotor. I really only had like 20% braking power!
I still had the brake pads that came on the car when I got it so I popped those on with the old rotors before I went to work tonight (they still have a ton of pad left and its a long story why I replaced them) it's not ideal but I have WAY better braking now and its a temporary fix until I get this sorted out.
Why Advanced auto sold me these pads that don't work with my car TWICE or what I was supposed to know before going in to buy brake pads? Generally I trust that when I got in there and tell them what my car is and ask for a part they will give me the part that works with my car. And one time being wrong is fine but twice at two different stores?
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Ok, i have a 2006 elantra with traction control steering (TCS). Brake master cylinder went bad so i replaced that. Now the brakes occasionally start grinding when i'm driving slowly and turning (usually happens when turning into a parking spot). When I jam the brakes down they usually catch. Sometimes the ABS and TCS lights will come on after this happens.
Another problem i've had is that is not connected to the braking is that the ABS and TCS lights will come on and the car will not shift and this is going like 55 - 60 mph. I've found that if i throw the car in neutral, cut it off and back on that everything is fine. This is my first hyundai and first car with TCS. I bout this car used with 75000 miles and have only had it about 3 months.
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So, last week I got my transmission replaced and they also had to replace the CV axle because it was damaged beyond repair when the Transmission self-distructed. They drove it after all the repairs and said it was driving fine, just that it had a belt squeak.
On my way home (30 min drive) about 10 minutes in, still in the city, my brakes start making a grinding noise and sort of a thump thump thump when I brake which sounds like its coming from the passenger side front, it makes me really nervous. It doesn't sound like any brake grindy noise Ive ever heard before and it wasn't making any brake noises before it broke down. (On a side note: it also made a weird noise maybe the first 3 times I drove it after getting it back and I turned the wheel hard to back out of a parking space, that used to be when I heard the belt squeak but I haven't made it squeak since I got the car back.)
Everyone I talked to said it sounded like it needed new pads so tonight I bought new brake pads and rotors for the front and got everything taken apart. The rotors didn't look bad at all, just some light surface scratches, nothing deep, no warping I could see, and the brake pads look almost brand new. I did notice that the inside brake pad on the passenger side was missing its little metal plate that is usually between the caliper and the pad, so I went ahead and replaced all of the brake pads hoping this lost metal plate was the issue.
I also turned the rotor by hand on each side while the brake pads were off and the only difference I could notice was when turning the passenger side one it made a little more noise almost like it was loose.
I got everything put back together and drove around the neighborhood with my boyfriend in the car to listen, the grinding noise was gone and it seemed to brake really well (never got above 30 mph.) However, on my way to return the rotors to advanced auto (45-50 mph) it started making the thump thump thump noise but without the grinding, still on the passenger side. I can feel it in the gas pedal and now it not only happens when I'm braking, but also any time I let my foot off the gas pedal. The only time I dont feel/hear it is when I'm accelerating.
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I bought a new 2013 Hyundai Elantra Coupe this past August and this is my first car.
My first concern was that Hyundai advertises 27mpg in city and around 37(?) for highway. I acknowledge the fact that Hyundai recently had to lower their mpg estimates for some of their cars and provide reimbursements but however, these reimbursements are for 1-2mpg difference. My car after more than 6 months is still only getting about 14-15 miles on a casual drive in the city and only about 19-20mpg combined and about 24-25 on the highway! I am only getting about half the estimate for in city! I do not drive aggressively. In fact I am a pretty safe driver since I am a new driver and cautious about everything. I am also using premium gas on my car. I called the dealership I got the car from and they were trying to tell me about the reimbursement program which I already knew of... The reimbursement based of the 1-2 mileage difference is not what I want. I want to fix it and get close to the estimated mileage as I can. What is the best way to go about doing this?
The other issue is that sometimes when I hard brake, my car makes a loud grinding noise. My dealership's service center said they could take a look at this. I was mainly wondering if there is anything I should be concerned about for this?
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I have a 2003 Toyota Prius with ~250,000 miles. Yesterday I was driving and the vehicle started to "stutter" and the warning lights came on. My ScanGauge indicated code P3125. I drove normally for 2-3 miles and parked for a bit. When I returned, I was able to start up and drive home with no problems (about 20 miles of highway and stop & go traffic), and drove most of this morning, but around noon it happened again and this time the vehicle would hardly move at all. It had no reverse and I had to push it out of the parking spot. I managed to limp home and park it.
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I have a 2002 Dodge Durango with puzzling brake issues. I noticed while driving that the car suddenly started to pull to the left. When i got to my destination the front drivers side tire started to smoke and unleash un ungodly smell. I let it cool, removed the tire and checked the brakes. Everything seemed to be fine. I also checked the calipers, also fine. I put the tire back on and it drove fine for a month or so.
The next time i was driving and the same thing happened. now it was the passengers side. Again i checked everything and it was fine. It was time for new brakes so I replaced them. Fine for another month or so. It is now happening on the drivers side again. I appologize if this is posted twice now, but i couldn't find it or see any responses.
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I have a 2007 Elantra with 138,000 miles. I never had any slipping or jerking or reverse issues in the past. I got into the car put it in reverse just fine then put it in drive and nothing happened, I put it in park and the car kept rolling like in neutral and started making a loud grinding noise. When I put the transmission in any other gear the noise stops but will not move and acts as if in neutral.
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The brakes on my 2007 Hyundai Elantra make a grinding sound (almost like finger nails on wood) when I have tried to stop in icy conditions. It's also hard to get the car to stop and I end up pumping the brake. A Hyundai dealer replaced the front brakes over a year ago and Adirondack tire replaced back brake pads in the summer. Is the noise part of the anti-lock feature or does it sound like a problem?
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When I so this its like pressing in the clutch and revving it but my car is an automatic. During the upshift and downshift there is no jerking or hard shifting so I would assume this is OK? And is full throttling your car every few days bad or good?
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I have an 05 Elantra and the blinkers suddenly don't work any more. Both of them. The headlights still work and everything else seems fine. I tried checking the fuses and the ones I can see are fine but there are several that are larger and opaque. You can't see if they are tripped. What could be causing the blinkers not to work and how do I check the fuses if that is the culprit?
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I have a 2001 Elantra with 126k miles. For months it's been randomly hesitating, meaning I'll be riding along and suddenly the gas pedal will do nothing...then about 3 seconds later, VROOOM, the gas pedal will start working again. Recently, it's started stalling as well.
I've already replaced the MAP sensor, input speed sensor, throttle position sensor, spark plugs, wires, and coil pack. Nothing has worked, but it is getting progressively worse (it stalls more frequently, and the gas pedal becomes suddenly unresponsive more often).
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I have a 2005 5 speed manual elantra that I let my wife drive it home when I drove another vehicle and the next day when I went to drive it it started grinding going into second gear. What can be causing this? The clutch works great on the other gears.
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I have a 2006 Elantra 4 cylinder with only 55,000 miles put on it.
Whenever I accelerate I hear this noise that sounds like a lawn lower under my hood, usually only there until around 45 MPH, then it dies down a bit. It as been getting louder and more....... screechy..... as of late.
Also, when idle, there is a sound that almost sounds like a metal grinding chugging noise. It comes and goes with no real rhythm or timing.
Additionally, there is a metal grinding noise coming from what seems to be my front right wheel area when I make wide right turns, as well as intermittently while driving regularly.
To my knowledge, neither of the motion noises seem to be happening above 45-55 MPH, or they are too soft to hear at those speeds.
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2003 Elantra GT ... Yesterday I went out and heard a sort of grinding noise from the rear. I thought it was the brakes. This morning I took it to a mechanic and he said it was the brake pad rubbing on some rust on the rotor.
This evening my wife took the car out and, in addition to the sound, said she smelled burning rubber. So I took it out and after a while figured out it is the bottom of wheel coil (see photo) on the rear driver side rubbing against the tire! I assume the mechanic didn't spot it because it may move out of contact with the tire when the car is lifted up. What happened here?
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My '01 recently seized up and a buddy determined it was the AC pump. Replaced the belt with the bypass version. A month later, I moved across the state to Iowa. A couple weeks into living here I turned the truck on and it was idling really high (about 2500-3000) but would settle down to around 1100 when put in gear. However, shifting into gear is causing a progressively worse "jump" into gear. Hadn't really had the money or the time to take it in so I let it mostly sit unless I absolutely needed the truck.
Today, the idle is still high and does seem to cycle a bit in that it will rev up close to 3000 then settle back down around 2200 or so and then rev back up again and so on. I backed it down the drive into the sun for a little warmth and it darn near jumped a foot when I shifted. I turned the heater on defrost so I could clear the windshield and absolutely nothing came out.
I can't get into a garage for a few days to get it hooked up for diagnostics. So I thought I'd try here. My research leads me to think part of my problem may be a vacuum leak and/or maybe a sensor somewhere.
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2004 Santa Fe, after starting car the brakes make a grinding noise, the nthe ABS, ESC and 4 wheel drive light come on. After the initial grinding the noise stops and the brakes work fine. Just the lights stay on.
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My car has been making this grinding noise for the last 2 months. It happens when I put the car in reverse gear and slowly release the clutch. Rarely happens also in 1st and 2nd and 3rd and is always at the beginning of the transition when I am letting the clutch go. I do not know if it is the transmission, the clutch or any other part. I drive a 2002 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed manual transmission with over 120 k miles
Here is a link to a video I posted so you can hear the noise it makes : [URL] ....
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Hey Guys, Picked up a nice 2002 Elantra with the best service history car fax I have ever seen. Every 3k oil was changed at dealership, all maintenance schedules were followed and I'm just at 100k. I love it! Its so gentle on fuel for me.
Anyways, I noticed whenever I start the car, the AC light is on and I have to turn off.
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I have a 2001 pontiac grand am se 4cyl with an automatic transmission and I've been having issues with my transmission, about a month ago the transmission started shifting hard then just went out so i took it to a transmission repair shop and the tech said that it was the pulling clutches and i told him to completely rebuilt the transmission including new electronics and torque converter and he did i got it back and it drove fine for that day then stared doing the same thing my transmission slams into gears and I don't know what the problem is sometimes ill be going down the road and the transmission slams and then the trac light comes on for a little bit then goes back out??? also some days i can drive it a mile or 2 before it starts slamming into gear.. what this could be causing it to slam i would think it couldn't poss be the transmission as everything has been replaced? could something else be causing it to slam into gear..
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Having problem with my car (2001 Elantra GT) - over the last month or so it's been occasionally making a very loud (not but consistent) grinding noise coming from the front of the car when decelerating at low speeds. The noise sounds like gears slipping over each other but cuts in and out. It's pretty loud and not a nice noise to hear! Sometimes it makes the noise when I brake firmy but not until I reach lower speeds... mostly it's just when coming to a stop, but it did it once last week when I was pulling very slowly out of a parking spot and not even braking.
As it's become more frequent (going form maybe once a week to several times every car journey) I have started to feel something in the brake pedal also, like there's something kicking it from behind. I took it to a mechanic and had to pay a ton of money to get a broken front left ABS ring replaced (it also had the front right ring replaced in May), and within 2 minutes of driving away from the place the noise was back. Before I spend even more money that I don't have on taking it back for extra diagnosis.
I'm told that this is almost certainly the ABS system that has a fault even though the ABS light never shows except when I start the car, and I've taken the fuses out of the ABS in order to confirm that it is. I haven't heard the noise after a few days of driving with ABS unplugged so I think we can be reasonably sure here. Is there anything that I can check myself or test (I'm not very handy when it comes to cars) or can you tell from this information what it's likely to be? Other things that I've noticed with the car which may or may not be relevant are:
- the warning lights for brakes, ABS and TCS are all lit with the fuses for ABS1 and ABS2 taken out. I take it this is normal for all 3 to illuminate with the fuses out?
- since unplugging the ABS I've noticed a slight metallic squeal from the brakes as if the brakes are worn down. Didn't notice this before I unplugged ABS though it may have been there, not sure.
- sometimes when going over a speed bump or just a minor imperfection in the road I hear a clunk in the front of the car and feel something move in the underside of the car. Happens mostly at lower speeds also, but not if I go over the bump really slowly.
- in the fuse box when I took out the ABS fuses I noticed there was a bit of minor melting/brown burn marks on the top of the connections marked (iirc) ECO3 and ECO4 on the diagram (large white connectors). Is this anything to be concerned about?
- sometimes when I have air coming into the car through the air vents it will become significantly warmer for a few minutes, then slowly go back to normal. Can't think of any circumstance that links the times when this happens (eg. speed, weather etc).
- the oil pan has a leak which is on the list of things to fix when the car works properly.
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I have a 2005 Elantra GLS. I've noticed that anytime it rains or I hit a puddle, my belt squeaks and sometimes it almost sounds like it's grinding and I lose power for 4-5 seconds. From the front passenger wheel well, I can clearly see the belt. I noticed there are holes drilled into the frame, and I was wondering if there is suppose to be a guard there to prevent water from getting on the belt?
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