So I just installed the Porsche Cayenne 18Z calipers onto my GTI. The install went great but now when I go around corners at speed there's a squeaking sound that comes from the brakes. I tried to epoxy the hub centric ring onto the rotor and grease up the outside of the hub where the rotor sits, but it's still squeaking.
View 4 RepliesWe had approximately 7000 miles on our 2014 250 when we first heard our squeaking when we applied the brakes. This happened after we had been driving a while. Took it to the dealer to see what was causing the noise. They found out it was the front brakes. They removed both front wheels to find the inner pads wearing at an angle and the caliper piston boots partly melted in middle. They ended up replacing the brake pads and calipers with new and machined rotors.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
View 1 RepliesI'm not too familiar with these trucks, but I've been working on my buddies 1999 e350 ford van.
The other day we were going out kayaking, and the brakes locked up, we were able to drive it home, but it was obvious the brakes were holding the truck back. decided to check it out today, found one front and one rear caliper were sticking, the dual piston calipers only had one working, which I believed to be causing the pads to get pressed together crooked, and caused them to "lock up" or get stuck.
anyways, got the new calipers on and no more sticking, so I bled the brakes started in the front and went all the way to the back, did every caliper. brakes feel firm with the vehicle off, but instantly when the van is started, the pedal goes to the floor. it still stops okay, but the pedal feel is not nearly where it should be.
I got all of the air out of the system, but the abs light is on, and has been for a while. I'm wondering if there is something else that needs to be bled in the abs? someone was telling me about bleeding the abs motor?
After coming to a complete stop & starts driving again, I notice that the brakes squeaks a few turns & then stops. It seems that the brake calipers does not fully disengage from the rotors.
2006 Touareg V6 Silver
I recently had rotors and brake pads replaced on my 2007 Camry (front pads/rotors and read pads/rotors).
It was done last week and she is braking fine. But sometimes now when I brake there's a low-medium squeaking sound from the brakes. Is this normal / what's the likely cause?
my 99 s/w 2 started making a squeaking sound coming from the front right wheel area it goes away when I apply the brakes? is that one of those built in warning features to let you know the brake pads are getting low? the brakes have 86,000 miles on them.
View 2 RepliesMy 2004 V8 Toureg has around 7K miles on it. The brakes are squeaking at a very high pitch. The same squeaky sound a bus makes when it stops. My dealership told me it is due to me not hitting my brakes hard enough. I have hit my brakes hard many times as of late and the squeaking continues loudly as folks will turn their heads. The dealership told me it is due to brake dust accumulation which if I wash the car they still squeak. Dealership also told me the VW regional field rep has told them that to rough up the brake pads which is a temporary fix. Dealership also stated if the brakes were replaced the brakes would start squeaking in a matter of a few months because this is how German cars behave. Not sure where to take this matter.
My other problems as of late are a bad power steering pump(replaced), bad suspension controller arms(new parts are ordered-kept hearing a popping sound when turning the tires and braking and grinding noise from the suspension), a bad keyless access module(replaced), steering column not centered(re-centered), wind noise from the rack ontop (basically to fix and probably only temporarily, unlocked them and then moved them forward a bit and then back to their original location- may have been loose as no more wind reverberation inside the car now), and rubbing from my driver side wiper. The brakes are the real thorn in my side at the moment due to other drivers hearing the noise while driving as they turn their heads. Very embarrassing especially coming from a new car!!
My wife told me she was hearing a squeaking sound coming from the front end of our 2006 Prius (90,000 miles) along with a noise when she applied the brakes.
View 1 RepliesI have a '13 GTI Autobahn Edition...
40K miles on it, and the rear brakes are squeaking.
I have some new rotors and pads picked out, but i dont know if i have the Bosch or the Girling rear calipers...
So I'm at the dealership because my brakes have been squeaking at low speeds for the last two months. They measured the rotor thickness and checked the pads and calipers. Their response is that this is a common problem in Texas humidity with the type of brake pads that are used. Apparently almost everyone is dealing with this.
New pads or to shave my rotors are not covered under warranty.
I just replaced my front brake pads and rotors. Car had no squeaking sounds before this. When changing the right front pads and rotor, the set screw that holds the rotor in place snapped on me when I tried to remove it. I drilled out the remaining screw and inserted an easy out / screw extractor to try to remove the broken screw. Screw wouldn't turn/budge and eventually the easy out snapped in half while trying to turn it. Here is where I fear I made a little problem into an even bigger one; I tried to remove the broken easy out by banging the back end (smaller end) of it with a hammer and screwdriver, hoping it would pop out from the front of the hub. No success, and continued using a lot of force to try to remove it from the rear part of the hub. Eventually I noticed the hub area by the back of the easy out bent a little from me using force from the rear to remove the easy out. I stopped there, bent the hub section back to original shape (didn't bend too much to begin with) and sawzawed off the protruding end of the easy out from behind.
After driving a few times I started noticing the squeaking sound coming from the front right wheel, the sound sounds like is in tune/harmony with the wheel rotation. As soon I step on the brakes, the sound stops. I had a similar sounding problem with a rear wheel a long time ago and it ended up being that the bearing needed adjustment. I know the front bearings are pressed in so they can't be adjusted. I am thinking the force used to try to remove the broken easy out damaged something with the hub or bearing or maybe the axle nut.
I have the TyrolSport Brake Caliper stiffening kit on my R. My brakes were squeaking and I had not greased the pins in a bit so I thought that might be the issue. When I went to grease them, I notice one pin was completely loose. It was my driver front lower. I greased it and tightened it back up. That was maybe 2 -3 week ago. I checked again on Friday before my track day on Saturday and the same pin was lose. Not all the way like last time, but not locked tight. This one pin is the only one that seems to have issues. The other three are rock solid.
View 6 RepliesLast Saturday, my mechanic friend and I spent the day installing WRD coils on my 2003 Wolfsburg edition Jetta. Took us longer than we thought but we got it all done and we set them at 3/4 max for lowness. I don't want to go any lower and I will probably raise a little bit soon.
Anyways, when I started driving I noticed a rear clunking sound, it's especially noticeable at slower speeds. Every single tiny little bump and sounds like someone is dropping boxes in my trunk. I checked my trunk and took everything out and that still didn't work. When my car is stationary and I get out and push on the rear to test the shocks I hear the sound.
Today while switching out the winter tires, I noticed it took significant effort to rotate the rear wheels, both of them. There is a binding noise I heard when I rotated each of the wheels as though the brake pads are rubbing against the rotors. Would it be OK to take it into Sears for a brake pad/caliper check and possible cleaning/lubing of these? Or are these components so unlike those on other vehicles that I should have the dealer check them out?
This was the first time I did the switching of the tires, so I don't know if the wheels have been bound for a long time. Also, in the middle of winter, suddenly the MPG rose for a few days (the vehicle seemed to move easier as well) and then went down. I am now suspecting the binding brakes on the rear might be the issue.
My front brakes have never been right in this car. Rotors go bad within a few thousand miles of being replaced. I don't drive fast or anything like that. After years of paying for new rotors at every brake job with Firestone, I decided to do it myself. I put new rotors and pads on a year ago and they went bad in a few months - they feel warped again. I took the rotors off and took them to O'Reilly to get them turned but a micrometer revealed they're not warped, just showing uneven pad wear. The tech said maybe I have a bad caliper. When I did the brake job nothing seemed wrong; both pistons went back into the calipers without issue. Now I'm thinking about replacing both front calipers and pads, but I don't want to waste more money. How do I tell if the calipers are bad and if they are can I fix or replace?
View 19 RepliesI just bought a 1998 F150 2wd with the 4.6L(no ABS) to be my beater home depot truck. The brakes barely functioned, so I replaced the front bearings, rotors, pads, and calipers. I bled the brakes exactly like I normally do. When I tried to move the truck, the rear tires spun with the front completely locked(also discovered the right rear line had a hole and crimped the line for a moment, but it was the tire that was spinning).
I searched and many people said that bad rubber lines cause the calipers to lockup. I loosened the bleed valves and the fronts were still locked(jacked up the truck and used a breaker bar on lug nuts trying to rotate each tire). I am guessing that it has to be master cylinder or the steel lines. Any tests I could do to narrow down this issue further?
When i first got my MKV R32 it was such a great handling car. I was able to got very fast on curvy roads with not even a slight bit of skid or squeal. Now its developed this rattling and squeaking sound. I feel the bumps in the road more, i notice more body roll, and alot of vibration in the steering wheel, and what pisses me off the most is i hear more squealing on turns that i used to be able to take faster with no squeal. For example i used to b able to take this turn at around 75mph no peel, now i started peeling out at like 63. (my tires have alot of tread) when i got the car it had around 17,000 mi on it now it has 31,000 mi.
View 17 RepliesI am having this issue when crossing a bump at high speed, it only sound when the shocks de-compress and only happening in the mornings so I think it might be the piston rod inside the shocks that is "getting dry" on the night and therefore making the sound in the mourning.
View 3 RepliesSo this car has only 50k miles. It was really cold in the sierra (around 20F) and the car started making a squeaking sound. I assumed it was just belt warming up, but when I opened the hood later, I saw shredded plastic. No CEL's! Seems to run smooth.
Where this came from? Is it part of the serpentine belt system?
Lately I've been getting this loud annoying squeaking sound from my engine bay at idle. It sounds like its coming from the belt. The car has 16k miles so i dont see why the belt would have a problem already.
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