Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Thumping Noise That Generally Accompanies Worn Out Sway Bar Bushings
Feb 6, 2016
I have been having that nice thumping noise that generally accompanies worn out sway bar bushings. I did bushings last spring but a noise came back shortly thereafter. Finally got bothered enough/ found enough time to take a look at it and tracked it down to the sway bar again. My right front axle mount has taken damage before and is now all bent up, not allowing the bushing clamp to hold tight to the bushing. Pictures of the issue are below.
Front view of the entire mount.
Rear view showing the sway bar mount plate.
I am unsure what to do about this mount. As you can see it has been pretty messed up by the PO. What could be done to fix the issue?
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What are the specs for the sway bar bushings that go in the retaining bracket for a 2003 ford f250? went to advanced auto last night to get some got mine off my truck and the one they gave me was a little too small for my sway bar and the retaining bracket.
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Back in January I had my right front wheel bearing and u-joint go out, so I replaced them both. At the time I didn't realize my outer stub axle shaft was wore so I just put it back in. After a little driving the right side started to "thump" and "pop" when I would make hard left turns driving around town.
I replaced the outer front stub axle shaft and seal again because the old one was worn down. This eliminated any play in the u-joint. After a bit of driving the thumping and popping noise came back.
I decided to dig into it today so I pulled it all apart. When everything is apart it turns easily, no issue at all. When I assembled the wheel bearing, torqued it to 55 ft/lbs and installed and "locked" the hub I noticed something peculiar. I can barely turn the whole assembly by hand. I have to put a good amount of force to get the whole assembly to turn at all. When I walk to the driver side with all the same parts there i can turn the wheel bearing and locked axle shaft with one finger on the studs.
I have been in this thing 5 times and can not figure out what the heck is wrong. I can't figure out why this stupid axle shaft and wheel bearing are so hard to turn, together or separately, and I can't figure out how to get my front end to stop that thumping and popping.
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Well I had a flat today, but that turned out to be a good thing. I noticed the rear brake pads are worn out. They are not metal to metal, but close. I have been looking at Rockauto, Pepboys and others. The funny thing is they never prompt or list different pads for the SRW vs the dually.
Are they the same including the parking brakes shoes? I was going to go with the OEM material or should I go with a ceramic pad?
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On my 99 at the tip of the springs there is what looks used to be plastic wear spacers between the leafs. Mine are worn out and I think it is part of a squeak noise I am chasing.
What that part would be, where I could get them, and do I have to break down the leaf assembly to change them or could I raise the truck by the frame and take the load off the springs enough to get the in?
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So I went from a 3 inch to a 2 inch leveling kit. After tightening everything up the sway bar was a hair off. I pulled it out of the garage and got it lined up. Fast foreward the next day and went on a 200 mile trip hauling an empty goosneck and noticed it one time. The day following the the truck has went into this horrible sway through the tires back and forth that makes it undrivable. Looking at tie rod ends the one at the pitman arm is shot. I order the whole front steering kit from xrf and I'm going to replace. I know I also have some play in the box but I have for awhile. So what else would there be to look at? I need to get this fixed. I will update after the steering is put back together.
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I have a 2002 F350 4x4 CC 7.3 i am wanting to change the sway bar bushings front and rear to poly and I want greasable bushings to avoid the squeaking that you get with these bushings alot of the time. I would like to change the end links to poly too i realize these wont be greaseable. What was the outcome and where did you buy the bushings. What is the size of the front and rear sway bars and the length of the end links??
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So putting the new extended links on my truck, not sure if they are supposed to be seated flush on both the frame and sway bar itself before tightening them down. This is how they are sitting now --
You can see a little gap between the rubber fitting where the bushing sits and the frame mount. Just wanted to make sure before I torque it down. Its the same on the other side as well. They are sitting flush on the sway bar.
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I am about to purchase a 2001 F450 7.3L with a 6 speed ZF6 that has a slightly worn 2nd gear synchronizer. I will be rebuilding this transmission with a friend and was wonder if there is any documentation available to assist with the overhaul.
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Front sway bar bushings causing "clicking" noise while turning the steering wheel? Usually happens when I'm moving into or out of a parking spot and while I'm turning my steering wheel. I got the driver side, I believe, lower control arm replaced and after that i started getting a faint clicking noise when I'm turning the steering wheel.
The dealer, after multiple visits, discovered it's the front sway bar bushing causing the noise. They said it's really not worth the cost, since it's isn't a safety issue and the whole sway bar needs to be replace since you can't buy bushings alone. I want to get rid of the noise regardless of safety or not.
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I have not had much fun with the front end of my 1999 4x4 7.3 diesel dually. Well I replaced the ball joints with moogs over the winter. Just recently I my truck has developed a thumping sound that I can feel under my driver side floor board. The weird thing is that it does not do it all the time. But yesterday I noticed it for a more extended amount of time.
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I have been debating if i should use seafoam engine treatment. My truck has been having issues with the first cold start of the day. I've noticed the rough idle that accompanies the cold start. I live in Denver so this truck sees alot of stop n go traffic. Will seafoam do anything about the dirty fuel injectors. They have to be replaced here soon but will adding seafoam solution buy me more time. If so, what are the steps on how to add. The can isn't very detailed on instructions and Internet isn't being useful. I have an 04 F250 Lariat Power Stroke 6.0L diesel
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I have a '92 Aerostar XLT with a rear control arm problem. The bushings have worn out and the rear end floats side to side as much as 1 1/2 inches. Ford says one bushing comes in the arm ( no longer avail ), one is a press in (no longer available), and the other is like a strut bushing and is available but without the other 2 there is no point in replacing the one. How to fix this enormous problem???
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I'm scheduled for my first HPDE next week and I just discovered that the bushings on the front end links are worn. I don't notice any issue when taking curves and I'm asking due to the timeline of when the dealer will get the parts...it'll be cutting it close before the event.
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I bought a used 2007 Lexus RX350, FWD, in December 2012 and had it looked over before I signed the papers by a non-biased mechanic. He said the control arm bushings would need to be replaced in the future.
When I took the car in last month to my mechanic (a private mechanic, not a Lexus dealership), he said the control arm bushings on the right side are worn a lot more than the left side. He said on this Lexus, it would require removing the engine to replace the parts (?) and that because it was such a labor intensive job, and the left will eventually wear, that he advises I get both the left and right replaced at the same time.
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I'm pretty certain that my 22mm neuspeed sway bar bushings are shot. they squeak like crazy and when I looked at them to grease them up it looked like they had space, oh and they knock like crazy. Any better source or place to check locally? Would Napa carry something like this? and is Poly my only option? would a rubber bushing wear quicker?
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My Tig has been doing a sharp clunk (single) for awhile when going a bit too fast over speed bumps. I just ignored it, as I'm not flying over bumps regularly and I had just replaced the OEM struts all around. Now when accelerating over 60 kph the car has a side to side shimmy. Also when compressing or unloading the front end suddenly, like with dips on the road, makes it clunk. Checking the various suspension components?
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As a lot of Camry in this world, my rear sway bar bushings went bad. Tried to replace them, I went slowly with the ratchet on the first bolt as I don't want to go with the impact tool, but that damn bolt decided to break anyway...
I called my local dealer and he said he don't have the replacement in stock and he cannot tell me the size of this bolt.
What is the size? My 07 SE have the bracket with only two bolts.
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My 2011 F350 - 6.7 has developed this KRAZY thump, snap noise under the hood, loud enough to be heard inside the cab, and I cannot find out what the heck it is. It is not directly connected to the motor, you can rev it and the noise does not change. the thump is like, every few seconds or so, especially when the motor is cold. I am afraid this is a 2000 dollar noise and the truck is out of warranty.
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I have an 06 f250 superduty, 6.0 . Last week I rolled into the throttle up to about 95 and then backed off. After which it developed a thumping noise, not metal, more like an air thump in the intake. Not throwing any codes, still runs strong, pulls boost, etc. The motor does have 285,000.
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I have a code for #6 low contribution and a thumping noise out the exhaust. When I turn number 6 injector off the popping/ thumping goes away. Truck is straight piped and deleted. It started doing this after getting on it hard to get on the high way. Sounds like beating an empty pop bottle on something
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