Ford - F150 :: 1992 Just Shut Off While Driving
May 1, 2013
I have a 92 ford f150 that ran great up until I was driving the other day and my trucks engine just shut off, like i turned the key off. It wouldn't restart. Towed it home, let it sit, and tried again..cranks fine, still wont start. replaced the coil.. Cranked it for about 5 min off and on and it barely started.. Let it run for about 5 min and shut it off, wouldn't restart. Replaced the icm....and again, cranked until it barely started, then it wouldn't restart. Today I replaced the ignition switch, and the cap n rotor. Now It'll crank for days..but still not starting. I have 40 lbs fuel pressure at the rail, plugs, wires ,all new. new fuel pumps also....
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My 92 f150 has been running rough at around 30 to 40 mph and around 60 and 70. It has a 5.9 v8. I have recently replaced the plugs, plug wires, dis cap, and fuel filter without it solving this problem at all. Someone said this could be my transmission or throttle body.
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So I got four new tires on my 92 f150. A day after driving it around. My hub starts going bad. That same day. I notice three wheels studs are broken. So I'm wondering if not tightening or over tightening cussed this. It was great before I took in for new tires. Then a day later my hub goes out. I put 60 miles on the new tires.
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1992 f150 4.9L, bought it a couple of months ago knowing the ac wasn't working PO had it converted to 134, said it worked great until they put on the bodylift. Compressor clutch is working, I'm sure I have some blend door issues but I've bypassed the heater for now.
AC on max, outside temp 85*, engine off high/low at 100psi, engine at idle low 55psi high 125psi, center vent reads 93*. When engine at apox. 1800-2000 rpm, low 35, high 180, center vent reads 85*.
My guess is the compressor is worn out. Is there another way to test? If I do replace what else do I need to replace? I'm hoping there's something else I can do/check before replacing the compressor.
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My 92 F-150 my heater blower motor doesn't put out enough air like my 2003 Lightning blower motor does.... So I figured after all these years that I would put a new heater blower motor in, well it's the same hear output and there's no debris in the heating ducts and the cable lever is working fine to close the blend door, so I guess maybe it's normal for these 92-96 F-150 trucks to have mediocre heating output ;-( Is there a bigger motor I could put in to get more heat..... The resistor is fine to, it works on all speeds.....
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Subject : Vehicle 1992 Ford Truck F-150 300cu. inch
Problem : Electrical
Description : Engine would stop running and as long the key switch was in the on position the electrical fuel pump would keep running and the end result would be a gas flooded engine. There was no way to predict when or where this occurrence would happen. It may be at a busy intersection or immediately after start up in the early morning. It may do this two or three times a week and then go a month without doing this, just about the time I thought everything was alright it would start up again.
I used just about every mechanic I could think of to diagnosis the problem. The fuel pressure switches were changed, map sensor, computer board, new distributor coil and module.A new alternator was also put on the truck to no avail.This truck was taken to a ford dealer garage. In my mind this would the the "Mayo clinical" for a sick Ford vehicle. The truck stayed there for about two weeks and left with the same problem it had arrived with.
Not long afterwards it came into my mind to install a new Ignition coil . That fixed the problem ! The truck ran good for about three months and then started the same thing again. I knew I was on top of the problem. I then put an old used Ignition coil on and it lasted about two weeks. Again resulting in the same problem. I then bought an expensive coil made in the USA "Blue Streak Brand". That has been about 5 years ago. The truck has never caused me any problems since.
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Situation is I have a 92 F150 2WD donor truck. 5.8l will be going into my 80 F150 4X4. E4OD transmission is long gone, but I do have a 4R70W from a 96 Explorer. Bolting it together is no problem, but there are differences in the transmission controls. E4OD uses a coast clutch, 4R70W does not. EPC, shift solenoids and TCC are compatible. I do not want to use a 5.0l PCM or add external controllers like the Baumannator.
Question is, can I control the 4R70W with the PCM that comes with the 5.8l?
I'm thinking I can ignore the coast clutch output, maybe tie it to +12 through a resistor if that makes the PCM happy. Baumann's controller appears to work with E4OD's as well as 4R70w's doing exactly this. Baumannator TCS Electronic Transmission Wiring Details....
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1992 Ford 150 4wd ... Starting sequence turns over very slowly when ignition is activated. Starter, Battery, Plugs have been tested. Spark has been checked and is active at ignition sequence. Could this be an amperage draw when ignition is activated due to a short in ignition circuit?
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I have a 92 f150 w 302 . My front tank leaks out of the gas cap and builds up pressure. Even though I have never put fuel in it (owned it 7 mos). I siphon fuel out of it weekly. If I switch from rear to front. The truck stalls out.
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I have a 92 ford ranger. About a year ago it shut down on me as I was pulling out of a parking lot. I replaced the Cam sensor which IS NOT located on the engine block by the fire wall. It is located on the front of the engine just above the primary cam which is just above the crank shaft and its sensor. It fired right up.
Then the oil pump went out and I just replaced it the other day and the pressure gauge/needle went past the half way mark even at idle. I drove around a bit, maybe 10 miles, then got in it to go to the gas station and got about 50ft from the house and it just died again and will not crank back up.
I am thinking its that darn cam sensor again. But, just like the oil pump was, it's a pain to get to and replace. How to test it. Oh, it is a 2.3 4 cyl. double overhead cam. I do have fuel pressure, I checked that already.
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I got a brand new 590 HP Ford F150 Raptor with the Roush Supercharger. The car's electronics have completely shut down twice (first at about 800 miles and again at 2500 miles). I called the dealer the first time it happened and they said i must have bumped the key. I figured it could have been a fluke, but then it happened again so the car is no longer safe to drive.
I've taken it into the dealer twice and they can't find anything wrong with it unless i can recreate the problem for them. Obviously if it happens once every 1000 miles, that is tough to do. The only common theme was that it happened both times while slowing down and turning left.
I've given up on having Ford service, so i'm about to just replace the ignition on my own dime. If i didn't put $25k into it already, i'd just make the dealer take it back under lemon laws.
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I bought the car new in '92 and have taken very good car with oil changes and required maintenance. The vehicle just turned 200 K miles, although mechanics have said they have seen these cars top 300 K miles. Noise started about a month ago and was initially noticed after turning off the engine after a 15 mile drive. Started happening more frequently after 10-15 mile drives.
Now it happens on short drives (5-6 miles), but not every time, and not when I brought to my mechanic to examine (figures!). Water was put through the radiator hose to flush out any trapped air, so that is not it. The noise is a cross between a grumbling of both air and water and it goes on for quite awhile. I stayed in the car about 3-4 minutes after shut off and it was still acting up.
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vehicle shakes when driving between 58 and 62 mph. what could be wrong? seems to be from passenger side front.
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1992 Escort GT 1.8 liter ... It's been a problem for a while, where I'll just be driving (or at a stoplight) and the engine dies. It doesn't sputter or give any signs (that I know of) before it goes. Usually if I let it sit for a while, generally under an hour, it'll start right up again and run for a few days and then happen again. The engine light will sometimes come on, but only after I get it started up again, and it never stays on for long. The other day, it died on my way to work and didn't start up again for a few days, but the engine light was on, and gave a code 23. I think this means I should get the throttle sensor fixed.
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I have a 92' Areostar XL 3.0 2WD. When I first start it and put it in drive it takes a few minutes before it kicks in. After a few minutes of driving it doesn't have a really bad problem (only a few times has it slipped in lower gears.) I was told it could be a clogged transmission filter, old transmission fluid that is glummed up, or pull belts need to be tightened. I have the van up on jacks now and was getting ready to change the filter and fluid but I decided to get some advise first before I screw things up or do any unnecessary work.
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I've had my mechanic work on this issue (the engine misses), and for the past few months thought the issue was resolved.... Truck is 27 years old and has only 75K actual miles. Here's what I have done.
Installed rebuilt carburetor - 2009New plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor - 2010Adjusted carburetor, timing, and choke - Feb 2012
I normally drive it every couple days, yet during last winter it set up for a couple weeks with 10% ethanol fuel. In early spring, the engine started missing while driving (about 1/3 of the time). After taking to the shop a couple times, my mechanic basically gave up. I believe it's time for a new mechanic. I may also give up and just get a newer truck, but not quite ready yet.
I suspected water in the tank, knowing that ethanol can attract moisture, so i ran the tank dry then bought 5 gallons ethanol free fuel (i live in the country where we can still find it). Engine started, ran great for a few months, and i thought i had solved the problem...until yesterday, when the engine started doing the same thing again just as it did when the problem originally started.
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I have a 92 Ford Taurus that runs warm, can overheat, especially in city driving. When driving at faster speeds with less stopping does not give any trouble. The radiator is full. I tried putting a new thermostat in and it overheat just the same. I took it out and it would run warm but not overheat. I flushed out the tranny. There are not leaks. Seems like water will come out to easy from the radiator cap. Thinking maybe it is blocked up some inside the engine. Can a water pump be kicking in and out at lower RPM's
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I have just inherited my recently deceased father's 1992 Ranger with the 2.3 liter engine. He was a Ford Mechanic but got to ill to worry about fixing the Ranger. So, let me begin, the engine dies randomly, (at idle or in gear driving doesn't matter what gear or speed), turning key to off and then to on will allow vehicle to restart every time. No "Check Engine" light has ever lit, I do have an "Antilock" light that comes and goes. The engine codes I keep getting are: 10, 218 and 222.
Code 10 is a computer check code,
Code 218 is "Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal/left side, and
Code 222 is "Distributorless Ignition System - Loss of right side ignition diagnostic monitor (IDM) signal.
These codes were from my Innova reader. I have read where other similar problems were fixed with a new Crankshaft Position Sensor, replaced mine, no change. Another symptom I just noticed is my temp gauge stays near the cool end when it should be higher.
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I have a 2002 F150. Small V6 regular cab 8 foot bed 2 wheel drive.In the last couple of months it has developed a rhythmic shake that is more like driving over a bump. It is really quite similar to driving on a road where all the release joints have been recently tarred so you go over a slight bump every second or two. I actually tried to convince myself that is what it was for about a week. Seems to be coming from the front driver seat.I previously lived in Mexico and the pot holes there would occasionally shear the bolts right at the lug nuts. Not too different than a car that was damaged like that, but I checked the lug nuts and it seems ok.The bump does not transfer into the steering wheel.Being a 14 year old ford the motor doesn't idle as smooth as my wife's new Toyota, but not bad either. If I let off the gas the bump doesn't stop. I haven't changed into neutral while it is running to see if that stops it.Tie rod?Axle? What to check or if there is a picture of something I could post that might tell you what is wrong?Planned on a camping trip this weekend with my wife. She is going to be ticked if we have to cancel.
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Once I had driven for about 15 minutes and the truck set for about 5 minutes. Then it would not start. Another time, I drove for about 20 minutes and it cut off while driving in a parking lot. I have had 2 different shops take a look at it and they cannot duplicate the problem. They have run a bunch of diagnostics and tried their selves but it always starts for them.
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I'm a new owner of an '89 F150. It's a four speed manual trans, 4.9L 6cyl. This is my first truck and I bought a beater in hopes of learning while I fix it up. I have minimal experience (biggest repairs have been replacing disk brakes on a previous car and replacing the EGR valve on this truck), but I want to learn more.
The truck has a bypass switch and the forward fuel tank was removed. Both of these modifications occurred before I owed it. Also, the clutch is a bit grumpy. Sometimes I'm unable to get it into first (I usually "granny start" from second), and every once in a while it doesn't want to go into reverse.
When I bought the truck, it would just choke and cut off after driving for 30 minutes or so. It would restart after cooling down. My mechanic said it was a problem with the fuel pump and replaced it, and that fixed that problem.
After that, the truck began to have trouble starting. I would flip the bypass switch and the engine would rev up, then drop RPM's quickly until choking off within a couple seconds. When I flipped the switch again, it would start up fine. It would run fine after that.
A mechanic recommended having the fuel injectors cleaned. The fixed the problem for about a week, then it started again. A friend of a friend who has a home garage suggested a vacuum leak, and we found a leak in the EGR value, which we replaced.
Replacing the EGR valve fixed the problem again, for a couple days, but it came back. Meanwhile, immediately after the EGR valve was replaced, a new problem started. Periodically while I'm driving (I haven't been able to detect any pattern), the engine will just shudder or choke a bit. It feels like it's threatening to choke, but it never actually does. Once it starts, it typically does this every couple seconds until I shift gears.
I'd really like diagnosing what might be causing the choking when it starts and the new shudder when driving. I realize it could be a number of things.
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