Ford - Taurus :: 1992 - Running Too Warm / Overheating Especially In City Driving
Oct 23, 2015
I have a 92 Ford Taurus that runs warm, can overheat, especially in city driving. When driving at faster speeds with less stopping does not give any trouble. The radiator is full. I tried putting a new thermostat in and it overheat just the same. I took it out and it would run warm but not overheat. I flushed out the tranny. There are not leaks. Seems like water will come out to easy from the radiator cap. Thinking maybe it is blocked up some inside the engine. Can a water pump be kicking in and out at lower RPM's
View 15 Replies
Advertisement
I am having overheating problems with my car, I had the car in the shop where they replaced the headgasket, got the head machined, got the radiator rodded out, checked the water pump, replaced the thermostat tried three different ones. The only way they could get it to run without overheating after doing all of this was to run it without a thermostat. I ran it that way for a couple of months, but it is getting colder where I live so I put a new thermostat back in it, now I am having the same problems, it runs somewhat OK while driving, it does not heat up right away maybe after 30 mins or so at city speeds, however at lower speeds it starts to heat up. If i put it in neutral and increase the RPM's the temp gauge will drop down.
After stopping I can feel the hose coming out of the thermostat housing to the radiator and the hose is cool, so for whatever reason the thermostat is not opening, I drilled an 1/8" hole in the thermostat to let any air through that may be in the system. When I refilled the system I opened the bleeder screw that is above the exhaust manifold until antifreeze came out of it then I closed it and filled the rest of the way.
View 14 Replies
I've got a problem with my R and I don't know what to do. It will overheat after being driven for a bit in warm weather and then if I get stuck in traffic, boom, the temp goes to red and the warning chimes on, stop car and check coolant level. The coolant level is OK, and I can't seem to figure out what is failing. I brought it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and it supposedly didn't throw any faults.
I know it's not just me that sees this happening as I now have two witnesses( I thought I was going crazy at first, I could still be going crazy but the car is definitely exhibiting this issue). Which temp sensor the fans work off of? I was thinking maybe the fans weren't coming on, as soon as I get back under and the highway air is coming, it cools right back down. The problem is sometimes it happens, sometimes it does not. I don't want to continue driving thinking it's just a gauge glitch and end up overheating and ruining my car.
View 8 Replies
I have a 92 ranger 6cyl 4L. The truck stopped running while driving then kicked on again, it did this several times over about 20 minutes then finally died and now I can't get it started. I recently replaced the fuel pump and filter and spark plugs and wires. I get spark if I ground the plug and some gas will pour out of the fuel pressure test valve when I stick a screws driver in. When I check engine codes I get an all pass. Truck will turn over and sometimes run for 2 or 3 seconds but that is it.
View 2 Replies
I have replaced the battery, spark plugs and wires and also replaced the starter in the last 8 months. also I have replaced some fuses and the fuel filter and changed the oil. My car won't start sometimes. it cranks but will not turn over. The fuel pressure is good and it sounds like it is firing but it will not start. Sometimes it will start right up after a try or two.
Also wanted to mention that when we replaced the battery less than a month ago, we bought some ethanol for fuel system and bought some starter fluid to put into it. once we did all this, it ran GREAT for about 2 and a half weeks. it started up every time on the first try. Then a few days ago it started doing what it use to do, start when it wanted to and not a minute sooner.
View 19 Replies
2000 Expedition. If speeds are under 40 mph and the air temp is above 85, my AC does not seem to work well. On the highway, it seems to work very well. Recently replaced with no change in performance:
Fan clutch
Water pump
Radiator
I've also degreased and hosed out the condenser. The AC system has been checked (by a friend with a set of gauges- but is not a professional) and a small amount of refrigerant was added. Still no improvement. Any obvious other things to check?
View 3 Replies
I have a 1998 Ford Taurus SE 6cyl 24 valve Duratec with about 135k miles on it. It has started to overheat. It has a closed system with the thermostat on the bottom passenger side. It isn't leaking coolant but it does boil when it heats up and you can hear it whistle/pop around the overflow cap. I have drained the whole system using the petcock valve and have changed out the thermostat (which because of its location requires all the fluid to be changed or you get green rain). So, new thermostat, new coolant, still overheats. The defroster air is blowing cold. It has a belt driven water pump but I haven't touched this. Both electric fans are working.
I don't see anything in the oil. It is still a nice dark color, not milky or anything. I saw no oil in the coolant I drained. When it first starts, there is a few seconds of puffs of white/gray smoke but it is very light and goes away quickly. There is no water running out the tailpipes.
My question is, what is your guess on the cause? I'm at the point with the car, with its age and miles that I'm not willing to dump a lot of extra $$ into it -- so there will be no head gasket change -- but don't want to junk it if its something simple. I do most of my own work on my cars. How can I diagnose it further? Should I just change the water pump and if that doesn't work then what?
View 6 Replies
I drive a hot mess of a vehicle. It is a 1997 for taurus that's got more than its fair share of miles on it.My big brother drove this car when he was 16 and I am 22. I am a college kid and I don't do much to my car knowing it will die soon but at the same time I don't have much money to do much. We have a good relationship most of the time and I gladly provide gas and regular oil changes in exchange for transportation.
My car when its warm outside especially idles very rough. So rough that at times it stalls out. It seems to happen most often and to the worst degree when the outside temp is very high and it has been running recently and I'm trying to start it up again. At other times and temperatures it has idled rough but not bad enough to stall. Once I start driving, or moving, its fine. The rough idle makes my car sound like a boat, that's the best way I can explain it.
Why my car does this? How to fix it?
View 2 Replies
I have a 97 ford taurus that when it is at idle (either in driver or park) it over heats. But if you give it some gas and the rpms get up to over 2300 the temp starts dropping immidiatly down to where it should be. Also the heater in the car stopped working not sure if the problems are connected.
View 10 Replies
I have a 92 f250 4x4 351 windsor, so I had a hose bust the other day that ran from one side of the intake to the other, I mean completely split down the side. The engine overheated when this happened so i replaced the hose and everything seemed fine until i was heading home and it started to overheat. Being frustrated and angry i noticed that the heater was blowing out cold air when it was overheating and that the top radiator hose would run flat when i popped the hood, but no coolant would run thru it until it overheated and sucked it back up or something. But I then changed the water pump thinking it was that but it wasn't, so then i suspected a stuck closed thermostat. I changed that and coolant still isn't running thru top radiator hose and now I am leaking coolant from what could be the thermostat gasket or somewhere else im scared and want to fix this problem.
View 10 Replies
Okay, admittedly my car isn't top of the line. But I'd rather keep it. It all started one day getting stuck in traffic. Some kid claims something broke, causing him to serve in front of a bus bus and sending the bus into a creek. Luckily, all the kids had been dropped off, and the driver wasn't hurt. In my angrier moments, I figure the kid was texting but have no proof. I was stuck in traffic for 90 minutes, and within sight of getting out of the traffic mess, there was a loud bang and it overheats. Off to the side of the road, call the wife, she picks me up. Take it to the local shop, which replaces the Radiator and the Thermostat.
From then on, if I get stuck in slow traffic or at stop lights, it heats up quick. The dash temperature gauge has the word "NORMAL" spelled vertically. After a few traffic lights, the pointer is at the O or even the N. Before the next incident (below), running too hot would cause difficulty starting unless I pumped the gas pedal, or let it cool down for awhile.
Another incident: a rather sudden loss of power driving. The mechanic claims that the catalytic converters are clogged (the car has two). He opens up one of them, "unclogs" it. This didn't solve the problem. It did seem to clear up the starting problem. There's plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
View 3 Replies
Just like the title says, getting crappy mileage. all my driving is city driving and on weekends i go on the highway for about 3 miles to get to work, i4 2013 camry getting 19.8 mpg, does that sound right for just city driving? Car has 6643 miles on it bought it in May 27th.
View 14 Replies
Radiator replaced 2 yrs. ago - required major rust cleanout; reservoir replaced shortly thereafter. Recently engine always hot, antifreeze disappearing, reservoir always looks rusty, nothing much coming out underneath, mechanic pressure tested and couldn't find a leak, told to watch for antifreeze in oil, none apparent. Now suddenly car ran hot, antifreeze came out of reservoir, cap replaced, still couldn't find leak. Today said head gasket blown. Repair head gasket, but can't guarantee wouldn't still have radiator problems. Suggested could try Blue Devil head gasket repair but may not work.
Is it worth :
(a) trying the Blue Devil;
(b) repairing the head gasket?
Or will I still have major repair needs with radiator etc.? I really can't afford even a cheap replacement car.
View 15 Replies
I'm at 9600 miles now and i noticed my gas mileage started going up---the last two fill ups with the same daily route:
23.9 mpg! in mixed highway and city driving! average speed 25-35mph for a typical trip!
Now, granted I've been driving gently...but that brought me to another exiting tid bit:
If I don't want to drive spiritedly (because I'm on the phone--hands free of course---or because I'm thinking about work)....this car is so smooth and comfortable....
I had a dodge charger before and that boat wasn't as comfortable nor as agile---by a ton! And then today....it's raining in fort worth....but that's no problem...no spinning tires at lights....amazingly better traction with AWD compared with my 1.8t!
View 4 Replies
So I have heard that, it is only good to turn on the ECO mode when you are driving in the city or town. When you drive onto highway, you should turn ECO off. Any good explanation of what is the best method of using the ECO button?
View 26 Replies
My 03 2.7 has suddenly lost around 4 MPG in city driving. Haven't taken it out on the highway to know where that is at. Used to get around 20/21 and now I'm around 16/17. Mileage is at 97k now and has new spark plugs and brakes done recently. I know the brakes are not dragging. All the fluids are fairly new and the car drives the same as before, I can't feel a difference in performance. Just lower gas mileage. I haven't changed out the T-stat yet, but the temp gauge in car reads the same as always. I checked the car with a code checker and there are no pending codes. I know this is the age where the oxygen sensors could start to go bad and have never replaced them.
View 12 Replies
My 2005 Honda Accord randomly loses all power during city driving (25 MPH or less and sometimes while approaching a stop). The dashboard, radio, etc. go black, engine stops, and power steering and locks go out. The first couple times, it restarted immediately and drove fine. The past couple times, it did not restart right away.
After waiting a bit and taking the key out of the ignition, we were able to turn on the interior lights, A/C, and radio, and then the car started fine. The car was involved in a frontal collision a few weeks prior to all of this starting. The driver's headlight was damaged, and at least one fuse had to be replaced. We have taken it to the dealer several times. They ran diagnostic tests and drove it around, trying to duplicate the problem -- without success.
View 2 Replies
How I can charge my hybrid battery while driving on city streets with an average speed of 35-45MPH. Once I get off the highway, the hybrid battery is almost full, only missing two "bricks" or "Bars." I will then accelerate very slowly only using the electric motor to drive the vehicle for the next couple of miles.
Once the battery has depleted to where it only has two bars, I will then accelerate a little faster to run the engine so it can charge the battery. But, I bring up the energy monitor and then watch the arrows.. making sure that arrows are coming out of then engine to drive the vehicle AND making sure that the electric motor is not supporting the engine.
View 6 Replies
I have a 1994 Honda Civic LX. It has a new 4 month old radiator and the fluid level is good. When I do in city driving I have no real heat to speak of. But when I get on the highway the heat kicks back in.
View 5 Replies
My Taurus will not turn off. My son calls and says the key turns back from rum but does not turn off. It will still engage the starter motor if you try. I stopped and picked up a ignition lock to install at home. I finally got the lock out while the car is still running and pop in the new one. Still will not turn off. Then the car overheats, coolant everywhere. Get the hose to try and cool it down a little. Break down and pull the distributor wire and the negative cable.
View 9 Replies
2001 DOHC AC all of a sudden started blowing warm air when on max AC, not regular cabin air but warm air as if it is on heater mode. It has automatic climate control. I checked the charge and low side is 30psi and high side about 130 psi. Pipes in engine bay are sweating so cooling is occurring. The compressor cycles once or twice when I first turn the car on then just runs continuously. I put some charge in but it didn't do anything so I didn't want to overcharge it. I was thinking maybe stuck blend door but how would I check for that.
View 3 Replies
